PDA

View Full Version : router maintenance---oxidation--silicon???



tom coleman
02-17-2010, 1:31 AM
I am a Florida resident. Read hot and humidity even though this winter has not been balmy. Went out to my garage shop for first time in months. My PC 690 and 890 were both frozen in their bases. I could not raise or lower bits nor could I remove the motors from their bases.

I drove 25 miles to Woodcraft in Sarasota. Kim, store manager, freed both routers in minutes aided by properly directed blow with a rubber mallet to free a stubborn wedge. He suggested that I remove the router from the base after use, use compressor to blow away saw dust, occasionally sand rough spots gently w 320 grit and occassionally use a non greasy lubricant like silicon.

What do you heavy router users do?

how do you spell occassionally........looks like I have too many of at least one letter

Norman Pyles
02-17-2010, 1:58 AM
I keep my shop climate controlled, with heat and air. But it is part of the house, and pretty small. When it is not too hot and humid, I do open the windows and run a window fan.

Steven Green
02-17-2010, 3:01 AM
I use graphite or silicon. I found if I take the router out of the base, and get rid of the fine dust it pretty well keeps me out of trouble. I also use white grease in the chuck.

Curt Harms
02-17-2010, 3:15 AM
That or one of the "teflon" sprays? I thought silicone and wood were anathema due to silicone causing "fish eye" in finishes.

Mark Major
02-17-2010, 7:52 AM
Hi guys...my very first post here so just want to say I'm glad I found this place...great bunch of people! :) Any way. I've used Slip-IT for quite awhile for things like this; it's even used in the food industry for lubing equipment...totally safe on wood and finishes. Pretty sure Grizzly sells it. I'm in Canada and get it from Busy Bee, the other brother's empire. :)

Myk Rian
02-17-2010, 8:20 AM
First off, I would have loosened the clamping tension screw a bit, then loosened the routers.
Spray a little silicon on a rag or paper towel so it doesn't get all over the shop. Wipe it on.

Darnell Hagen
02-17-2010, 8:46 AM
Silicone is a contaminant, Curt's right about fish eyes.

Wax is the safest lube.

Paul Atkins
02-17-2010, 12:45 PM
Silicon is what they make computer chips and solar cells out of. (More or less) Silicon dioxide is very hard and would not be a good lubricant. Silicone is a whole different animal.

Dave Cav
02-17-2010, 2:32 PM
Slipit, Boeshield, Top Cote or even regular paste wax all will work fine.

John Coloccia
02-17-2010, 2:49 PM
I don't like silicone in the workshop because of potential finishing headaches. I personally like LPS2. I was introduced to it when I was doing airplane homebuilding. It smells nice too...I like it, anyway.

John Coloccia
02-17-2010, 2:53 PM
By the way, LPS1 is their dry film lubricant. LPS3 is their heavy duty rust inhibitor. LPS3 is what I'd probably use if I was spraying a machine top or tool for long term storage.

Charles Krieger
02-17-2010, 3:27 PM
The answer to your other question: Occasionally is the correct spelling, two C's, one S, and two L's. Spelling is not too important on this forum. Grammer and spelling don't define a woodworker or the quality of his product so ease up on yourselves.:)

Steven J Corpstein
02-17-2010, 7:07 PM
Slipit, Boeshield, Top Cote or even regular paste wax all will work fine.

+1 for this! Been using Top Cote since I bought my first router and it works. Use it on my saw guides, drill press quill, etc. Silicone and graphite will get on your wood at some point and make any finish applied a hit and miss affair. The only other slippery stuff I use to preserve is Camillia oil.

johnny means
02-17-2010, 9:42 PM
I use something called White Lightning. Think it's some sort of wax suspended in alcohol. Discovered it at my local bike shop.