Finishing Cherry

[Steve Wurster]

All,

I made a scarf rack for my MIL out of cherry, and now I need to finish it. It's really nothing more than a 5 foot tall face frame. I was just going to put some Tung Oil Varnish on it, since she liked the way a test piece looked with that.

However, I'm having second thoughts about my choice, as I don't want the oil to affect the scarves that will be on there. I'm worried about the scarves staining or otherwise getting discolored by the finish.

Is Tung Oil Varnish okay here, or should I go with something else, perhaps just a simple poly?

Thanks,
Steve

[Prashun Patel]

Which TOV do you have in mind? Polymerized tung oil varnish has no oil left, and is really just a varnish, and won't leach onto any clothes. But tung oil FINISH is typically (but not always) an oil/varnish blend that might not be as appropriate.

Personally, I like the way a wipe down with linseed oil followed (after drying) by shellac looks on cherry. I think it'd be more than adequate protection for a scarf rack.

[Thomas Pender]

Poly? Is someone going to walk on it?? :D

You may also want to experiment with a neutral (natural - darkens it somewhat) color BLO type finish like WATCO or just plain BLO. Let it cure for a while - a week or more and then apply 3+ coats of a water based satin product - any of the Traget stuff (EM 6000 or even EM 2000) or even Minwax PolyAcrilic (available at any Borg). I think a nice satin finish will do the trick and if it gets a tad worn, just sand lightly and reapply!

I built a mirror frame out of some cherry for my brother and it is this rich burnished red color with exactly the method I outlined above. Working on a desk with the same plans at present.

[Scott Holmes]

On Cherry (that will not be walked on) I like BLO, 24 hours is long enought for it to dry; 48 hours if it's humid outside or in the shop.

Then a couple light coats of garnet shellac. You're done. Touch up if needed is simple.

[Steve Wurster]

Thanks for the replies.

The TOV is Old Masters. I don't know if that's more varnish and less oil or not.

The consensus seems to be BLO followed by shellac. I just want to make sure that won't discolor or otherwise affect the scarves. Will that give a color effect similar to what I got with just the TOV?

Also, I don't have a sprayer, so is there anything I need to know about applying shellac by hand?

Thanks,
Steve

[Michael MacDonald]

So... does anyone NOT like BLO? See the link below for some complaints.

http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/forum/f38/boiled-linseed-oil-why-hate-10276/

Without starting any controversy, does anyone agree? Are these comments unfounded? It seems that the biggest inherent characteristic is "gummyness" (if & when refinishing), risk of fungus or mildew, and risk of light damage... Spontaneous combustion is quite manageable, so I don't give it credit as a complaint.

Perhaps the recommended top-coat of shellac addresses some of these complaints?

Anyway, I recently did a cherry nightstand that I stained. (I know from reading other posts that some contributors on this forum will find that horrific... I did it to match other furniture in the room. blush...) I am wondering how it would have turned out with the BLO/shellac, and would like to try that on the next Cherry thingy that I build. So any of these complaints valid? Thanks!

[Prashun Patel]

Michael-
Took me a while to really understand this, but here's my take:

1) BLO is a great color/grain enhancer
2) BLO is a poor protectant

It's usually recommended to give depth and richness to some wood - but only when used UNDER a more protective finish, and only if given sufficient time to dry before putting that other finish on top.

It does all it's supposed to if you wipe it on liberally and then wipe it off so there's no standing puddles. This way you don't need to let it dry for days before topping.

3) BLO increases the open time of varnish and prevents building. This kind of finish is designed to be repeatedly wiped on and wiped off. A thin layer of varnish ultimately impregnates the top layer of the wood without making a glassy layer on top; the oil slows that setting and gives you time to wipe up. If you leave it too long, you increase the risk of geting a gummy mess, though - depending on yr relative concs of oil to varnish.


As for staining - and for that matter the use of polyurethane - don't count me in the field of haters. Both work fine for some of my hobyist needs.

[Steve Wurster]

Does anybody have a specific BLO or shellac recommendation? Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

BLO from the BORG is perfectly fine. Don't go spending big bucks for this product.

For shellac, I've used Zinsser (Sealcoat or Bullseye) if I want it ready mixed.

I also bought flakes from ShellacShack, but many here swear by Homestead for the highest possible quality shellac.

Personally, as long as you use clean alcohol, and strain the final solution, I don't know that shellac flake quality matters all that much. The most critical thing to watch is how old it is (once mixed).

[Jeff Monson]

Scott's schedule is what I use on cherry every time. I use the same steps but I will use a clear topcoat if I need further protection.

I did use just blo on one cherry project, it is still in our home but I dont care for it nearly as much as the projects that I have used amber shellac after the blo, it adds alot.

[Howard Acheson]

Does anybody have a specific BLO or shellac recommendation? Thanks.

Boiled Linseed Oil is Boiled Linseed Oil. All of it is the same.

If you want a pre-mixed shellac, your only choice is Zinsser. Zinsser makes an clear or an amber. They also make a blond that is dewaxed sold as Seal Coat.

[Andy McCormick]

Zinsser shellac has an aerosol can. Thats the easiest. Shellac will want to dry very fast when applied by hand. Andy

[James Ogle]

Boiled Linseed Oil is Boiled Linseed Oil. All of it is the same.

Not quite true. The BLO at the BORG uses heavy metal driers. There is BLO that is polymerized via oxygen introduction or heating. Doesn't really matter unless you have a client that is very into the green movement. The green stuff is really expensive. I can get 5 gallons of BORG BLO for what I can get 5 liters of the green stuff.

[Jeremy Brant]

Boiled Linseed Oil is Boiled Linseed Oil. All of it is the same.

If you want a pre-mixed shellac, your only choice is Zinsser. Zinsser makes an clear or an amber. They also make a blond that is dewaxed sold as Seal Coat.


I'm getting ready to do some cherry finishing, and am going with BLO, shellac, then a topcoat. I thought the BLO was supposed to be coated with dewaxed shellac, which the only dewaxed Zinnser product is Sealcoat. I'd prefer to use the amber or garnet, but it seems the only way I'd get there is to order the flakes and mix it up myself. What's the word on waxed vs dewaxed for this application?

[Prashun Patel]

It depends on what yr using as yr topcoat. If it's oil based polyurethane or a waterbased product, you're better off with a dewaxed product.

If you're using an oil based varnish, then the waxed shellac will work.

[Scott Holmes]

Shawn,

Technically...

Oil based polyurethane is an oil based varnish. Poly will not stick to shellac that still has the wax... non-poly varnishes will.

[Jerry Olexa]

What other have said, I agree but:
Brush on BLO liberally. Let dry a week.
Use dewaxed Garnett Flakes to mix your shellac with DA
Brush on 1st coat'
Pad on next coats to get the blending and sheen you want..

I think it is an ideal finish,,

[Howard Acheson]

>>> Without starting any controversy, does anyone agree?

Those are only a couple of the known negatives. Add to them:

o Has no water or water vapor resistance
o Has no abrasion resistance
o In a very short time it dries out and becomes powdery requiring adding more oil
o Rapidly turns amber and continues to become more amber over time.

All in all, it should not be considered a "finish". The only "finish" lower on the totem pole is paste wax. Think of it as a colorant used to "pop" the grain.