24 x 28 pole barn

[Mark Boyette]

Looking for a bit of input from those here on a pole building. Last year I built a 1200 square foot barn/garage at my place which is use for both shop and truck storage. For the exterior walls I used 2 x 4's horizontal and then installed a t1-11 type sheathing. Inpector passed it no problem.
this year I'm looking to build a 24 x 28 at my fathers house (different city). I plan on using again 2 x 4's horizontally every 2' then 7/16" osb, then vinyl siding for the walls. This inspector says I need to install
diagonal metal straps as a wind bracing on the walls then the osb, vinyl. Not sure what thickness he wants or how wide yet. Heck.. not even sure where I would buy this. Wouldn't the osb so the same thing as any metal wind bracing? I'm guessing if he demands it there isn't much we can do but not sure the reasoning here.
Not in hurricane zone or anything.. NE Ohio
any input appreciated.
thanks, Mark.

[David G Baker]

A thing I learned years ago is to get as much advice from the inspector as possible, he is the one that has to be satisfied with the critical things. I would contact him if possible and ask him the questions you have.
On the diagonal metal straps, Home Depot may carry what you need it will be a Strong tie brand name. You called your building project a pole barn, will you have 4x6" and 6x6" pressure treated posts set into the ground below the frost line like the typical construction of a pole building? If so I would think that this along with the OSB on the walls would be enough bracing that should take care of any wind other than a direct hit from a tornado.
I had a 20x20x10' shop built in Northern California and the inspector made my builder add 2ea 4x8' sheets of 1/2 inch plywood on all 4 corners of the building and put nails in every stud 2 inches apart from floor to ceiling. He called it hurricane bracing. I called it earthquake bracing. The building went through the Loma Prieta earthquake without any cracks in the stucco unlike my house that was built in 1949.

[Mark Boyette]

thanks for the input David. yes.. I will be using 6 x 6 post set 38" in concrete. I'd rather build in increments of 10' for the spacing of the posts but the lot size won't work with those dimensions. The inspector calls the shots but I'm not sure I understand the logic. oh well.. hopefully they aren't that expensive.
Mark

[Mitchell Andrus]

I'm with the inspector on the diagonal bracing. Flexing and wracking under wind and snow loads can tear fasteners out of OSB in just a few years, especially if it ever gets wet (which will rot the fasteners down to nothing also). May seem OK now but the inspector has to assume someone someday will put off maintenance, especially because it isn't a home, it's just a shed and ripe for abuse/neglect.
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[Allan Froehlich]

I thought studs were spaced 16 inches apart?

[Mark Boyette]

I'm with the inspector on the diagonal bracing. Flexing and wracking under wind and snow loads can tear fasteners out of OSB in just a few years, especially if it ever gets wet (which will rot the fasteners down to nothing also). May seem OK now but the inspector has to assume someone someday will put off maintenance, especially because it isn't a home, it's just a shed and ripe for abuse/neglect.
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Wouldn't that be the same on a standard build garage then? Which it isn't required for in this city.

[Mark Boyette]

I thought studs were spaced 16 inches apart?

pole barn so no studs but there is 2 x 4 bracing. here's the last one we put up to show the difference in framing.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/rockyrivermark/polebarn.jpg

[David Roberts,Fitchburg,Ma]

I built my 24 x 40 pole barn 6 years ago, I am still finishing some work on the inside, but it is mostly done. I did not use 6x6's, I spent a year reading and talking with guys from forums from the middle of the country, where pole barns are everywhere. One suggestion I went with was laminating up the posts from 4 layers of 2x6's. On the sides I went up 14' so I needed an 18' post, I varied the lengths, used 0.60 PT underground and then the piece above was KD. That meant a 6' PT and a 12' KD, an 8 and 8, another 6 and 12 and than another 8 and 8. I also did not put all 4 pieces together on the ground, I added the upper (outside) layers after I buried the bottom. It was heavy, but one of the kids was still at home at the time, helped slide them in. I used a gun, added stainless (I think) underground and regular above.
When I had all of the sides up, I cut the two inner layers to the same size with a water level, and then added the outer layers, but went 12" higher on the outside, then I just slipped the rim joist into that pocket. Did the same thing on the gable ends, it was a 28', but I added the outer afterleveling and then had the delivery guy hoist a doubled 40' gluelam into place, I was thrilled when I threw a 6' level on and it was straight.
If I can be of help, please let me know, I had a great time building it, mostly by myself.

Here is picture from yesterday:
http://api.ning.com/files/1yvH9s9gp1JV2xFZy70E-EmU0VktYXFse5n3K23WH5v2kzsu4jgn9cH6EHdbd0RQk7AE1qi DgwPxJ-YrqzYm7uxXgidr5sY7/ForumPics2010001.JPG?width=737&height=552

[Mitchell Andrus]

pole barn so no studs but there is 2 x 4 bracing. here's the last one we put up to show the difference in framing.



Not jabbing stick in your cage, but was this designed by someone who knows what he's doing? Engineer or architect? Perhaps the inspector is making you compensate for the lack of structural members.
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[Brian Effinger]

Mark, an alternative might be wood wind bracing. I've attached drawings I did for two different clients. One was a small barn with wind bracing at the corners, and the other a larger one with bracing across the entire wall.

Check with the inspector.

[David Helm]

Do the bracing; it is cheap and your dad will be happier in the long run.

[Mark Boyette]

Not jabbing stick in your cage, but was this designed by someone who knows what he's doing? Engineer or architect? Perhaps the inspector is making you compensate for the lack of structural members.
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yes.. it was designed by someone 25 years in the trade and 14 years as foreman.

[David G Baker]

Mark,
Using the metal material, which is probably galvanized, you may want to research how the galvanized material reacts with the pressure treated lumber. I haven't kept up with the new pressure treatment chemicals.
The bracing that I have seen at Home Depot is not horribly expensive and it won't hurt to over do the bracing of the building as the inspector wants.

[Sylvain Deschamps]

Mark, try this link lots of info on braces. I'm in Canada and pole barn constructions are not the most popular type of framing up here. In our typical 2x4 or 2x6 , 16@ stud wall framing it is quit common to use these metal galvinised diagonal braces available at all building supply stores.
http://www.strongtie.com/news/industry/wall-bracing/conventional.html

[Jim Andrew]

In my neighborhood, there are quite a few morton buildings that are 20 years old and older, and morton used to warranty their posts for rotting off at the ground. They have repaired a lot of posts. My bil has one, probably near 30 and it has had several posts repaired. What they do is dig a hole around the pole, pull out what they can and pour it full of concrete and put a piece of metal on each side and bolt through the post to the metal. Seems as though it would be a good idea to build that way in the first place if your post is going to rot off.

[Brad Schafer]

an alternative to buried wood can be found at permacolumn.com ... maybe pricey but worth a look.

[David Roberts,Fitchburg,Ma]

It sounds to me the only opinions you are hearing, is from standard building guys, I have the first pole barn in my town, and the building inspector was confused and wanted me to stick build. I used 0.60 PT instead of 0.40, life should be at least 30 to 50 years. I however had the advantage of a NY state DOT engineer who was looking over my shoulder when I was building. I would say the inspector in your town doesn't understand the construction requirements and benefits of pole barns. I went 8' on center, and like I mentioned, used 4 layers of 2x6 for less warpage, I have not had any problems since I built it, with the integrity of the building. I knew how to build a pole barn, but the inspector required a set of plans, I bought a cheap set, and then did it my way, which was over engineered. Except for checking the hole depth, the only comment was positive.

[Rich Aldrich]

My dad and brother have pole buildings built in 1984 and have had no issues with poles rotting off. My main garage is a pole building and I have had no issues.

I built my shop pole building style, but ....

It is great for a cold storage building, but when you finish off the inside walls, you end up with so much wood in the walls, you would be better off putting up standard stud walls. Because of this, I would either use a floating slab or standard foundation with a rat wall 2 blocks high and build regular stud walls. This also will give you a higher than 8 foot ceiling (another mistake I made).

The roof trusses and all can then be pole building style, trusses on 4 ft centers, perlins and metal roofing. The eves can be boxed in or not, but provide ventilation. Go with an energy heel on the trusses so you can insulate it properly. Exterior walls can either be metal or whatever you like.

[Mark Boyette]

The main reason we decided on a pole barn was due to the savings in both wood and concrete. In Ohio (2006 code), anything over 400 square feet required a footer so floating slab isn't allowed on this size. The pole barns saves us from all the digging, hauling of dirt, and the additional 9 yards of crete needed for a footer.
thanks for all the input here.
Mark.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

It sounds to me the only opinions you are hearing, is from standard building guys, I have the first pole barn in my town, and the building inspector was confused and wanted me to stick build. I used 0.60 PT instead of 0.40, life should be at least 30 to 50 years. I however had the advantage of a NY state DOT engineer who was looking over my shoulder when I was building. I would say the inspector in your town doesn't understand the construction requirements and benefits of pole barns. I went 8' on center, and like I mentioned, used 4 layers of 2x6 for less warpage, I have not had any problems since I built it, with the integrity of the building. I knew how to build a pole barn, but the inspector required a set of plans, I bought a cheap set, and then did it my way, which was over engineered. Except for checking the hole depth, the only comment was positive.
I agree completely. I deal with inspectors all the time and when you do you find that no two have the same requests. Diagonal bracing is not necessary on pole barns. They are built they same way they are in the picture above everywhere I have ever seen one. I know of no diagonal strap that is made for that purpose at that length so ask the inspector to point you in the right direction. Then you will find out if he has ever really seen the product or not. If not ask him if you can brace diagonally with a 1x4.