newbie needs help

[Charles Bouchelle]

I found a piece of crotch wood in my brother inlaw's wood pile.Well the rough turning of the wood shows some fantastic spalting and figuring.Here is the problem....I have encountered some soft areas that I don't know if I keep turning if they will go away.I would like to stop now,but I need to do something with the soft stuff,I have seen in postings about using CA for soft stuff but don't know how to doo it.I don't want to lose this great piece of wood.Pictures to follow thanks

[Eric Kosanovich]

Charles, you can try and turn it out if you think you can but if you are where you'd like to stop then yes you need to put something on it only i'm not sure if it would be CA as that is mostly a finsh.
some one here will surely know just give them some time to get home from work. i use Danish oil. it says on the back hardens in the wood not on the wood. a unique blend of penetrating oils & Varnish. have a look at that

[Andrew Kertesz]

Actually CA is not a finish although some people use it as such. CA - cyanoacrylate is an adhesive. Many people use it to stablize wood. Depending on the area of the punkyness (is that really a word) would dictate how much you will need. Try putting some on a non-critical area and let it harden for a day then start again. You are better off taking this one step at a time to try and salvaging the piece. Many penturners use CA to stabilize what they call worthless wood because of the interesting grains and patterns.

[Michael Mills]

For softwood (punky) I apply heavy coats of thinned shellac. I thin it 1 part shellac to 2 parts DNA. It will still only penetrate about 1/8 inch so you may have to turn, apply more, turn…
I believe some people also use lacquer and lacquer thinner the same way. CA should also work but it may become expensive if the area is large.
Also watch out when sanding and use light pressure, the soft wood will sand away much quicker.
Mike

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have used the shellac in 1 lb cut. I have also used lacquer and lacquer thinner 1 to 1. Another thing I have used for about 3 yrs now is 5 min epoxy mixed and then mix in DNA to a consistancy of milk. I paint this on till it won't take anymore. I let it dry 24 hrs and then turn. Sometimes I have to do it more than once but most times I paint it on just before the final cuts. When I use this I also use a surface finish.

[Prashun Patel]

Try this:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=32486

[Charles Bouchelle]

well this is what I ended up with after turning and alight sanding and some BLO.It changed forms a couple of times because the tendon broke off twice.Anyway I am down to wood thatis pretty good but I took a couple of pics maybe someone can suggest a fix for these spots. thanks.Sorry the pictures are so bad .

[Dick Sowa]

A couple of thoughts...

First...I think your tenon is way too long...that might be why it broke. The end of the tenon should not bottom out in your chuck. The tenon should be short enough that the jaw tops are tight against the bottom of your bowl. 1/4" or so works fine for me.

Second...As for hardening punky wood, the key is to soak those areas with something that will harden up and make it machinable. I primarily use thin CA glue, then turn some, and if needed, add more. But if you take light cuts, with a sharp tool, even punky wood can be turned without too much trouble.

[Charles Bouchelle]

I have never used a tendon this long the first two were not long enough to "bottom out" but the face plate was coming loose as I was starting to shorten the tendon on this one so I stopped at that point.So I can just layer CA and than turn?

[Charles Bouchelle]

put some ca on it now . back at it tomorrow

[Matt Newton]

I have also used Minwax Wood Hardener to stiffen up soft wood. It machines well after hardening. Just be careful of fumes when using.

[Eric Kosanovich]

Charles, this also may help.

http://www.veddermountainhardwoods.com/2009/02/27/stabilizing-techniques-for-small-pieces-of-spalted-wood/