Dissasemble a Porter-cable 7519 router

[Jack Wilson]

Has anyone disassembled a porter-cable 7519 router? It looked like all I had to do was remove a few screws and slide it apart, but that's not quite the case. :( Evidently it's a press fit, how do I safely "un-press" it?

[Chip Lindley]

Jack, it is a tight fit, but can be disassembled fairly easily. First remove the brushes from their holders. After removing the four screws (122), use a rubber mallet, rawhide hammer (or hammer and block of wood) to judiciously help things along, separating the upper assembly (52) from the smooth barrel (52A). The top bearing must be unseated to slide these two pieces apart.

This leaves the armature still attached to (52A) by the collet and bottom bearing. Collet must be removed by holding the armature between wood blocks in a vise, and wrenching the collet off counter-clockwise. Then the lower bearing can be pressed off the armature shaft, if need be.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

On my older PC 7519 the upper bearing is locked in by a set screw at end of motor shaft along with lock tight that locks upper motor shaft to bearing. With set screw removed you can remove upper cap from upper bearing. You can't get access to lower bearing with out special tooling to lock motor armature to remove collet assembly. With collet removed you can press out armature and lower bearing. You will need additional special bearing removal tooling to remove lower bearing and reinstall. I only know this as I watched a Dewalt repairman accomplish the above steps. If you are replacing bearings, get them through PC. Also if your model router uses shielded bearing do NOT install sealed bearings as it will run much hotter. Dewalt had to do this three times before they got it almost right. Tom

[Chip Lindley]

upper bearing is locked in by a set screw at end of motor shaft

Thanks for remind me Thomas! (#81-plug)

[Jack Wilson]

To be more specific, what I really need to do is simply separate sleeve 52A from motor housing 52 so that I can press out pin remnants 210 and then press in some new 210 pins. What I am encountering is that though I have removed screws 217, 122, 94 & 8, as well as the brushes, I get NO inclination that 52A & 52 are going to separate. The router works fine, so I am not inclined to beat the living daylights out of it. After several good wallops with a rubber mallet on both the lower shaft, (collet housing), and the sleeve, ("to loosen it"), I took a wooden mallet to the collet end of things. Like Sergeant Schultz, 'I see nothing'. Not sure what to do at this point, I don't want to damage it.

[Dan Lee]

When I replaced the bearings on a 7518 problem I had was getting the collet reciever #83 loose/off. Impact driver and 1-1/18 (?) deep socket was the answer to that.
Not sure thats your problem.

[Jack Wilson]

Thank you everybody, and Dan, yes the impact did the trick. I'll post photos soon of the disassembled unit, no big wow, but lots of filth, and two very short brushes.

[Jack Wilson]

Well I got the unit apart, it did take an impact wrench and a 1-1/8" socket. Then there was the friction fit of the sleeve (52) over the motor housing (52a). I removed that by clamping the housing to a bench and beating the sleeve with a rubber mallet. Finally I began to see movement and when it was separated enough I used to screw drivers as wedges to slip it off.

This all began as a way to remove the remnants of the 4 nubs which locate the router motor in the router base. I thought I would simply slide off sleeve (52) and press out the nubs. That failed. The nubs would not be moved. I then decided to drill them out, steel nubs in a soft aluminum body...that was also a no go. My latest hair brained scheme, when I have time, it to drill 4 new holes and press, (or pound), the new nubs in.

Back tracking here, I have some attached photos of the disassembled unit, you can see a lot of gunk which was inside, I cleaned out what I could. Also the notice the short brushes, which I am replacing. You'll see another router in the picture, that's the second one, once I have figured it all out I'll tackle that unit.

As you'll notice, I have my shop set up as a kitchen, in fact it's so realistic that my wife actually thinks it is the kitchen...go figure.

[Glen Butler]

Well your either not married or have a wife as great as mine. Using the kitchen table as a work bench. Nice.:D This often happens to me because I have already used up the space on my work bench with other projects.

[Bill Dufour]

Old thread that helped me. The lower bearing is a 6005, top is a 6202. Normal ball bearings nothing special. I used a razor and hammer to open up the top housing from the coil housing. Then pounded in screwdrivers and chisels to move it along. I will file some notches to allow screw drivers in the gap next time. 1+1/8 socket and impact driver took off the collet holder. Just held commutator in a rag, no special clamping.

I will also file off a lot of the plastic top cylinder leaving a full round top and bottom about a finger width tall. In the main body leaving just four finger width lands top to bottom. Plenty to keep it located and much less friction. I do not like the suggestion of waxing it before assembly.
Bill D
PS: I really posted this so I can look up those bearing #'s next time if I lose them.

[Matt Day]

I’ve replaced bearings in a few of these too. There’s a couple good videos on YT that will help too.