Push me in right direction... unisaw question

[Doug Kinney]

I'm a newbie in search of a tablesaw and need some advise from you wise folks. I've been looking for a hybrid or used cabinet saw, but didn't want to spend over about 600-700. As you all probably know, that price range and my vision seem to have irreconcilable differences.

I now have the chance to get an "older model unisaw with a cast iron ring on the base." The motor is a 7 year old 3hp single phase leeson motor. The fence is a 50" biesemeyer commercial with table board and legs included. The guy wants a bit under $1000, but is willing to deliver it. This is a big plus for me since I cannot pick it up without renting a truck and spending more $$$.

Now I know I can get a new Grizzley, with warranty, but sans the biesemeyer, for about the same price. But the older unisaws seem to be the gold standard. Is the older uni a better option than a brand new import?

Help!!! :confused:

[John Thompson]

I sold a mint Unisaw about the same age for $750 but.. the new owner had to pick it up. I think that is a bit over-priced for my area anyway with a Uni going for $650-$800 average but he would deliver. Just a close call if you don't have a way to pick the saw up and have to rely on someone else. Could you have a friend with pick-up help and offer less just to see how the seller reacts. With him delivering I personally wouldn't offer more than $875 delivered if he is basically local. BTW.. both saws will serve you well...

Good luck as this is a difficult call IMO under the circumstances...

[Simon Dupay]

An old uni is a MUCH better saw then a grizzly any day.

[Steven Satur]

Go with the Unisaw. The one with a C.I. base is a good find. You won't be sorry. If you don't have a P.U. truck rent one or a trailer. It would be worth it.

[David Christopher]

Doug, I have a 58 uni and love it, mine has the top ground and a 5 HP motor and everything is in brand new condition. now with that beeing said, I wouldnt pay 1000 dollars for a used uni.. I would either buy a new grizzly or a real cheap uni and rebuild myself

[Tony Bilello]

Doug:
I think John is right on with the price. $800 to $875 with the 50" Beis - delivered is a fair price.
Given the choice between an older Unisaw and a new Grizzly, the Unisaw would win. Has nothing to do with buying American or country of origin. Has all to do with quality.

John:
Are you a Louisiana coon-ass?

[Tony Shea]

A bit high on price. Offer him $800 at most and stick to your guns. Find a way to pick up and then throw him the lower price.

[Joe Shinall]

Paid 1000 for my Uni with 52" UNIFENCE and extension brand new on ebay delivered. I'm sure you can get that guy to do it for 800. If not, just keep a look out on CL, cabinet saws seem to pop up all the time.

[Ben Martin]

I have a mid 40's Uni and love it. Only paid $250 plus restoration time and a new fence...

If you want a Uni, post a WTB on OWWM, you can get one for less money than that and maybe even somebody that would deliver.

[Dave Cav]

I have a '49 Unisaw with the 1.5 HP bullet motor. I got it for $300, but it was a rusty mess. Once I got it restored, I sold my 10" Grizzly cabinet saw.

The price on the saw you're considering is a little high, but not much, and you will never regret the purchase. The only thing comparable is a Powermatic 66.

[Norman Pyles]

I think that price is a little high too. I picked up a new rt uni without a fence at Woodwerks, for around 700 when they were blowing them out last summer.

[Dan Forman]

Consider the economics of your area, being in or close to a large city will have an impact on price as well as availability of a good used saw. I very seldom see Uni's for sale around here, most are old Craftsman's. The last Uni I saw on CL was $795 I think, and was a newer saw.

Dan

[Cary Falk]

Price being the same the Uni with the 50" biesemeyer has the edge as long as everying is in working order. I see Uni's in this area for between $800 and $1500. I got my 1970 for $400 but it was a basket case and I probably overpaid but it was a fun restore project. If it needs work, you are better off going with the Grizzly. The guts are the same. There are a million satisfied 1023 owners. You will likely never see the difference in your lifetime.

[Garth Almgren]

Newbi here how do i post pics to share delta unisaw find
Hi Manuel,

You might have better luck posting a new question in the Forum Tech Support area instead of replying to a post from 6.5 years ago.
Here's a direct link to the correct spot: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=7

[Bruce Page]

Manuel, I moved you post and sent you a Private Message (PM).

[lee cox]

Looks like this original post was six years ago. Unisaws have gone up in value so if you bought one back then you are ahead of the game. If you bought a new Grizzly you lost money.

[manuel ramon]

What type of saw do u have lee?

[lee cox]

Unisaw, and Unisaw Jr. All my tools are old now. I sold off my 2 Rikon Bandsaws and my more modern Delta Contractor saw. I guess my newest floor based power tool is a Minmax S45 bandsaw which is 22 years old.

[manuel ramon]

Thats awsome.i dont know if you saw the pics of the unisaw im hopefully going to buy on saturday .will be my first vintage saw im just starting out really as a hobby do u have pics of your unisaw when you first got it

[lee cox]

There is a thread for my Unisaw Jr on owwm.org which is called Unisaw Junior Table Saw Fix Up. It was in bad shape when I got it.

My Unisaw I only needed to pull the motor and align the pulleys so all 3 belts would work as it was running off 2 belts. I bought new Gates Premium AX 24 belts. My Unisaw has a 3 HP motor which I needed to wire 220 volts in my shop.

Your Unisaw looks nice. I think you will have fun getting it all working. Good luck with it.

[Jim Dwight]

Let me add a couple thoughts for the Grizzly option. I see they have a hybrid with a "2hp" motor for $700 right now. I think that is really at least what we used to call a 1hp motor but I used to use a saw with that size motor and it will cut 3+ inches deep in hardwood - but only with a good rip blade (I use a Freud 24 tooth) that is clean and reasonably sharp. So it is powerful enough as long as you are willing to swap blades to match what you are doing. With a 3hp or 5hp saw, you probably can just use a combination blade for everything.

The biggest advantage I see of the Grizzly is a more modern easily removable blade guard. To me that's a big deal, especially for a newer user. The tendency on older saws is to take off the blade guard and leave it off because it is in the way for some cuts and too slow to get on and off to be swapping it. I wouldn't buy the older saw unless it has at least a riving knife that isn't too tough to remove for dado cuts. Without a riving knife, you are more susceptible to kickback.

I also like the fact that the Grizzly fence locks at both ends. A biesemeyer does not but is a nice rip fence. Some jigs tend to lift the rip fence, even a feather board can. A fence locked at each end doesn't lift. The Grizzly weight also seems like something that would be more manageable.

I don't know what is best, just wanted to point out what I think are some advantages of the newer saw.

[Mike Henderson]

In case some people didn't notice, this thread was stated in 2010. Whatever the outcome, it's already happened.

Mike

[Marshall Mosby]

Go for the UniSAW and just ask the guy if he could negotiate the price a bit. That's it you are ready for some cool woodWork.

[Matt Day]

With the mod edits this thread is pretty confusing. And by the law of the Internet forum, newbies always fail to check the OP date.