What went wrong with rub out?

[Jan Bianchi]

I'm refinishing a cherry coffee table that has seen and will see heavy wine glass duty during parties. I put on a sealer, stain and two coats of polyurethane gloss followed by one coat of satin. After a week I rubbed out the dust pimples with 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and soapy water and then, using 0000 steelwool, rubbed paste wax in. It feels wonderful and looks great from side to side, but from top down it looks like a layer of finish has been removed from along the grain line of the wood, a distinct dull look following the grain.

Did I rub too hard, too soon, too much, not enough?

Second, should I even be using a paste wax rub given that I know how it will be abused by party goers? If not, what will return the sheen (but not high gloss) to the wood after the wet/dry sandpaper rub?

[Jamie Schmitz]

I would simply say that poly is a good choice for a table top and that it is not meant to be waxed unless it was a wipe on poly. Actually the wax would be more of a problem with keeping it looking good. Stick to the poly and if look around you can actually find it in a flat sheen.If you want to continue with the rubbing out technique try rottenstone which is a ground pumice powder and it comes in different grits. Get rid of the wax if you re-coat.
For absolute protection you could install some glass of course.

[Jan Bianchi]

Thanks Jamie. Is the process of waxing usually reserved for pieces that aren't going to have liquids set on them, like a china cabinet or something with mainly vertical surfaces, or is it just not used with polyurethane?

[Jamie Schmitz]

I would say that in general wax is used to restore a look that has dulled or needs the luster brought up,or as a way of finishing the sealing process in general. So you could lets say oil a piece and then lock in the oil by coating it with wax. Another thing is it is used as a maintenance product to help hide blemishes using either colored or uncolored wax depending if the piece has been stained or not. Although it can also be used by itself as a complete finish which is what bowl makers (turners) use but it has to be done at high speeds.

[Jim Becker]

Unfortunately, polyurethane isn't a good choice when you intend to rub out a finish for several reasons and since you top coated with satin, any cut through to earlier layers is going to be amplified. Waxing isn't going to help your efforts, either, as it's temporary and is going to get cleaned off the first time you use many household cleaners.

If you want to have a rubbed finish, then use a non-poly varnish, lacquer or some of the better water borne finishes available today. If you want to stick with poly, then do you leveling earlier in the process and knock off any dust nibs with a white synthetic pad...and gently. You don't want to be abrading the surface, 'just knocking off the imperfections. Unfortunately, a slow-drying finish like oil based varnish is tough to get perfect in this respect because it remains tacky for so long.

[Pete McMahon]

I would simply say that poly is a good choice for a table top and that it is not meant to be waxed unless it was a wipe on poly. Actually the wax would be more of a problem with keeping it looking good. Stick to the poly and if look around you can actually find it in a flat sheen.If you want to continue with the rubbing out technique try rottenstone which is a ground pumice powder and it comes in different grits. Get rid of the wax if you re-coat.
For absolute protection you could install some glass of course.


Jamie,
A minor correction in your information: pumice and rottenstone are two completely different abrasives. Pumice, which is volcanic rock, comes in two different grits 2F and 4F with the 4F being the finer of the two.
Rottenstone is ground limestone and is much finer than pumice.
The basic premise of the two abrasives is pumice cuts, rottenstone polishes.

[Tony Shea]

Like has been said, poly is a poor choice for the rubbing out process. Especially when a coat of satin. The satin has a substance in it that makes light not reflect off of it like a gloss. Thus creating the satin look to the eye. You could have rubbed a layer off in a spot showing more of the satin or just a layer line in general which reflects light differently from the rest of the finish. The other problem with rubbing out a poly finish is its' cosistancy once dried. It is actually somewhat soft compared to other finishes like shellac or laquer which makes it harder to get a consistant rubbed look all over. I'm by no means a professional and am learning everyday. This is just some stuff I have experienced myself and have learned. Others may be of more help to your issue.