blade spacer need for table saw

[Bruce King]

Where can i find a "blade spacer" to go on the table saw arbor before the blade is installed?

I rebuilt my arbor and must have driven it in 1/8 further than original so now my table insert does not fit. I don't want to stress the bearings by trying to adjust the arbor position, a machined flat spacer should work fine if I could find one.



Edit: I just realized the table had much more adjustment in it than I thought, all is well now

It would still be nice to know if they make aftermarket spacers though...

[Jamie Buxton]

It would still be nice to know if they make aftermarket spacers though...

Look up blade stabilizer.

[Myk Rian]

I don't think a stabilizer is what was needed.
The arbors usually come with the washer pressed, or milled on. How did you get it moved further?

[Phil Thien]

You can get machined spacers from McMaster.

[Jason White]

I use dado shims for getting the blade lines up with my splitter. Works great.

You could also get a cheap blade stabilizer/stiffener from Sears. Basically just a large washer with a 5/8" arbor hole.

Jason


Where can i find a "blade spacer" to go on the table saw arbor before the blade is installed?

I rebuilt my arbor and must have driven it in 1/8 further than original so now my table insert does not fit. I don't want to stress the bearings by trying to adjust the arbor position, a machined flat spacer should work fine if I could find one.



Edit: I just realized the table had much more adjustment in it than I thought, all is well now

It would still be nice to know if they make aftermarket spacers though...

[Bruce King]

I don't think a stabilizer is what was needed.
The arbors usually come with the washer pressed, or milled on. How did you get it moved further?


When I put the table top on and started the bolts, the table just happened to be almost perfectly lined up with the blade so I did not notice how much adjustment capability was in the table mounting holes. So all I had to do was move the table 1/8 to the right.

[John McClanahan]

Just keep in mind, if you use the stabilizers, they are larger diameter and you will not have as much cutting depth.

John

[Richard Dragin]

Lee at Shark Guard sells them but I would use a gear puller to tweak it back to where it was. I went through the same thing and found I could tilt the blade and get the gear puller on without having to remove the arbor.

[Myk Rian]

Lee at Shark Guard sells them but I would use a gear puller to tweak it back to where it was. I went through the same thing and found I could tilt the blade and get the gear puller on without having to remove the arbor.
As he stated, the table top was tweaked too far over. He has the problem fixed.

[Richard Dragin]

Actually, the arbor was set to a different position and he adjusted the table top to match. Might not be a problem but if you put a splitter on I doubt that will line up to the new position either.

[Lee Schierer]

I recently needed to cut some tenons on my TS. The part being removed was pretty thin and my Delta Tenoning jig wouldn't adjust far enough to make the cut. I made a spacer out of tablet backing cardboard and moved my blade about 1/16" to the right so the cut came out right. I used the blade washer that fits between the blade and the nut as a template. I cut the out line with an x-acto knife and the 5/8 arbor hole with a forstner bit. I couldn't see any teeth marks in the cut so I didn't introduce any blade wobble.

We rebuilt a TS at work and had the same bearing issue. We sketched up a spacer we needed and a local machine shop made one for us out of steel for a minimal cost.