Router Table Fence Height ?

[Andy Haney]

I have completed the cabinet (structurally, not yet finished) for my modification of Norm's table. The top is laminated and edged, and I'm starting on the fence. I can see some neat applications for the height of Norm's fence design, but wonder how often I would use that height.

The new Wood Magazine design looks serviceable, particularly the height. I'm interested in the thoughts, opinions and experiences of this forum before I put expensive Baltic Birch ply through the table saw. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Andy Haney
Ottawa, Kansas

[John Miliunas]

Personally, I don't have a very tall fence on mine. BUT, my next one will be taller! The main reason I would have for it is, even though probably 95% of my cuts don't require a tall fence, it's that other 5% which may require it or enable me to enhance a piece, due to my having that ability. Yes, one can probably get away with some of "those" cuts with a shorter fence, but for the sake of safety, you'd be better off. :) Plus, as long as you're doing this from scratch, you may as well build it to the hilt and now worry about possibly upgrading at a future time. Just MHO.... :cool:

[Dale Thompson]

Andy,
I've got both a 4" and an 8" fence for mine. For the first time, as humiliating as it may be, I must agree with Spring. :eek: You are probably better off with the higher fence if you use only one option. This is both for safety and accuracy. I also use the 4" fence about 95% of the time (GADS - do I HAVE to agree with him twice in a row). :eek: :eek: That is primarily because I have my router built into the table of my table saw and, therefore, the fence assembly is moved a lot. The 4" fence combo is lighter and I'm getting older! :(

Dale T.

[John Miliunas]

(GADS - do I HAVE to agree with him twice in a row). :eek: :eek:

Twice?! In one night?! In the same thread, no less?! :eek: Dale, you're slipping! :eek: Man, you're getting to sound more and more like SWMBO! Typically though, she won't admit to it even when I AM right! :cool:

[Dennis McDonaugh]

My fence is about 8" tall and while I don't need it often, it is nice to have when you want to make small panels with a vertical panel raising bit.

[Kent Cori]

I have sacrificial fence faces that are 5" and 10" tall. As the others have said, it is much safer and easier to use the taller fence when needed. Since my entire fence assembly is made from about $8 of MDF, it was a pretty easy decision to make both sizes when I originally constructed the fence. Now I just tend to continue to use whatever size I used last. Since I have a dedicated router table, it really makes no difference which set I use from the convenience standpoint.

The MDF has worked great and it is generally what I've used for other fences. It costs next to nothing and is dimensionally stable as long as you don't get it wet. Just make sure you drill holes for any screws. DAMHIKT. :(

[Dale Thompson]

Twice?! In one night?! In the same thread, no less?! :eek: Dale, you're slipping! :eek: Man, you're getting to sound more and more like SWMBO! Typically though, she won't admit to it even when I AM right! :cool:

Hey Spring,
I never figured out how to modify or delete my "reckless" threads or responses. Hopefully the "Wizards of SMC" will declare this as an obscene thread and delete it completely. At least I will be able to maintain the minimal dignity which I still cling to by only a precariously thin "thread". ;) :)

Dale T.

[Pat Salter]

I like the high fence because it makes it easier to use featherboards on big projects (as in many feet of molding, picture frame stock or whatever).

[John Miliunas]

Hey Spring,
I never figured out how to modify or delete my "reckless" threads or responses. Hopefully the "Wizards of SMC" will declare this as an obscene thread and delete it completely. At least I will be able to maintain the minimal dignity which I still cling to by only a precariously thin "thread". ;) :)

Dale T.

Tut, tut, tut....Now that's just TOO bad now, isn't it?! HAR, HAR, HAR! :D :D :D Regardless, I still vote for the taller fence right off the get-go. :cool:

[Mike Scoggins]

Andy,

I have interchangeable fences of two heights on my router table (both MDF). I don't really know what the exact measurements are off the top of my head, but they're roughly 3.5" and 8". I thought I might mention one thing that could be a consideration for you. I have the 'Router Raizer' on my router table which has a hexed-shaped removable crank for raising and lowering the bit. When the tall fence is installed, the crank hits the fence during adjustments. This obstruction is an annoyance and makes quick adjustments of the bit height impossible (having to turn the crank, remove and replace it to "get another bite," etc.). So, if you have (or intend to have) an above-the-table height adjustment system that utilizes a crank and you go with a tall fence, you might consider cutting out a small segment of the fence (by reducing its height is that segment) for clearance of the height adjustment crank. I have been intending to do this for a while on mine, but just haven't yet.

Mike

[Steve Clardy]

Mine are all about four inches. If I need a taller one, I just clamp whatever piece of scrap on it that's laying around.

Steve

[Chris Padilla]

Kent uses the same thing I do: a big piece of MDF. I flush-up hardwood edging on plywood using a tall fence (with clearance on the bottom to allow the plywood to slide across) simply bolted to my exisiting fence.

I think the idea is to make yourself a good solid fence that has the ability to bolt several other specialty fences to it when needed. Versatility is the name of the game! :)

[Ted Shrader]

Andy -

My router table fence is about 5" high on the ends and rises to about 8" high in the middle. This allows the use of feather boards above the bit. It also has holes to allow the addition of a taller fence when required.

Ted

[Andy Haney]

Thanks for the feedback folks. I have committed to a plan, and "Frankenfence" :rolleyes: is under construction :D . He was named by a member of another forum in a private message.

Although most folks seem to like the full height of the Norm fence, one piece of feedback was that it would be very handy to not have the fence interfere with bit height adjustments. I checked the "tools" for elevating the Woodpecker lift and limited my fence height to 6.5". I've made a series of holes and slots in all the fence supports/braces so attachments can be devised for whatever task. "Frank" will look a little like:

Norm's;

the recent Wood Magazine plan; and

have dust collection through the fence and tabletop ala what others have called Dizzy's plan.

If I can figure out how to do so (Chris, Tyler and others), I'll post some pictures when all is done. I've had some fun with this table and gone much further than necessary.

Thanks again for the help.

Andy

[Hal Flynt]

I have a Jointech fence that I use alone 90% of the time and I bought their tall fence extension to use for Verticle bit panel raising. It's easy to set up. The top of the Jointech has a dovetail slot in the extruded aluminum. The fence extension has the dovetail routed at the bottom to slide it in place. There are 2 triangular support bracket on the back that are screwed into the tall fence and hex head machine screw and nut that slide into a T-slot also on the top of the extrusion. It's very stable when everything is tightened down.

I havent seen your fence, but could you put a sliding dovetail slot and T-slot about 2.5 -3" apart on the top for an arangement like this? The fence itself is MDF with a melamine laminate.