Which Combination Blade?

[Tony Shea]

I guess I've decided to get myself a decent combination blade for my table saw. I recently just been switching back and forth between my 24 tooth rip blade and my 80 tooth crosscut blade. But recently I have been doing a lot with softer woods, especially pine and ripping pine with a 24 toother doesn't really give me a very clean cut. The crosscut is fine though and would still use the 80 tooth blade for this. I just think a 40 or 50 tooth blade would do a much better job for a clean rip and would work for the occasional crosscut.

I don't really want to spend $100 or more for a Forrest. I'm stuck between Freud or Infinity. I'm leaning towards Infinity as they have treated me great recently but I do like my Freud's. Other suggestions are welcome as well. Any opinions and experiences with combo blades would be great.

[Brandon Weiss]

I may get chastised for this but what about a Ridgid or Freud from Home Depot? I have the Ridgid, 50T I think, combination blade and am VERY happy with it. Granted, it's edges won't stand up to the 0.0000000001" ridge scrutiny held by some here at the creek (sarcasm....haha.....) but it rips some clean edges. I don't work with too many expensive hardwoods yet, mainly project plywoods, a little oak, lots of pine, etc. I think I paid $60 for it or something. Nice thick kerf. When that one goes Dull I'm likely to buy it again. I currently see no reason for me to buy a $100 plus blade so I'll stick with my HD blade.

[Lee Schierer]

A very good blade at a very reasonable price is the Freud LU82M from Rockler for $40.http://www.freudtools.com/images/LU82MMain.jpg It crosscuts very well and will rip cherry burn free on my contractor type saw, so it should work well on your pine and soft wood.

[Myk Rian]

Discussed many times here.
I use a Freud 50 tooth combo thin kerf for most things.

[Tony Shea]

I have the Ridgid, 50T I think, combination blade and am VERY happy with it.


I actually use the 80 tooth version as one of my crosscut blades and have been real happy with the clean cut. It is also straight as an arrow right out of the package. When lined up to my miter slot on my saw it shows almost perfectly flat. This is after using a 1/8" kerf Freud crosscut blade to line the miter slot to blade in the first place.


A very good blade at a very reasonable price is the Freud LU82M


I was actually seriously contemplating this blade becuase it is on sale at my local building supply store (Viking Lumber). They have it for $36. It is the only Freud Industrial blade they have as the rest are the Diablo series, which I haven't been too impressed with as far as longevity is concerned. I didn't buy it due to the 60teeth count. I thought this might be to many to give good results on ripping. But if you have decent results in cherry than it shouldn't be a problem.

[Paul Ryan]

Tony,


If you want an excellent that will perform as good as any of the premium blades and run you considerable less, check out a systimatic blade. I have 3 and think they are the best bang for your buck. And will last forever, the carbide is huge.

http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/budke.htm

[Bill White]

Freud 50 t combo- full kerf here. I use the thin kerf blades on the miter saw and ras. I have, and use, tk 24 t ripper (Infinity), and an 80 t thin kerf for jobs that require the little extra quality that a dedicated blade will provide.
Bill

[Lee Schierer]

I was actually seriously contemplating this blade becuase it is on sale at my local building supply store (Viking Lumber). They have it for $36. It is the only Freud Industrial blade they have as the rest are the Diablo series, which I haven't been too impressed with as far as longevity is concerned. I didn't buy it due to the 60teeth count. I thought this might be to many to give good results on ripping. But if you have decent results in cherry than it shouldn't be a problem.

Here's the cutting recommendations from Freud for the LU82 http://www.freudtools.com/images/LU82MRecommend.jpg
As I mentioned, I use this blade and it does beautiful cross cuts. It rips slower than a 24 tooth, but the finish is much better. My saw is a 1-1/2Hp Craftsman so it isn't a big power house. I sliced 96" of baltic birch Borg type plywood this past week with nary a chip out or burn mark.

[Paul Murphy]

Best combo blade I've used is the 40t from Ridge. It cuts 8/4 hardwood at a reasonable feed rate, less burning in cherry than my 30t Forrest, and cuts oak veneer plywood better than any other blade I own. I also like the raker teeth, leaves a flatter bottom. Finally, the plate is flatter than any other blade I own.

FWIW, I started out with mid level quality blades, but learned when you can't get a decent edge when cutting an $80+ sheet of veneer plywood, you aren't really saving money.

I guess the "best" blade depends on your intended use, and expectations.

[Jay Jeffery]

If you are going to Sears any time soon, you might have a look there. I just found a Freud 50 tooth, full-kerf, combination blade for $41 on closeout.

It is full price on their website and I don't know if it was specific to the Sears hardware I got it at.
link (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00932489000P?keyword=freud+combinati on+blade)

Can't yet comment on how well it performs as the only cut it's made so far was cutting a cove.

[Stephen Edwards]

Here's another vote for the Freud blades. I got two of them when Amazon was running a special. I use them both for ripping and crosscutting. They really do produce a glue line rip and the cross cuts are perfect. Mine are the thin kerf. I think that I paid around 70-80 bucks for the two of them.

I don't use them for cutting rough sawn stock. I have several cheaper blades for that purpose and grab which ever one I see first.

I haven't used the Forrest blades, though I know that they have an excellent reputation. For my needs, I can't see anything doing a better job than the Freuds that I already have.

[Jim Terrill]

I have been considering getting this blade: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020099/29292/Freud-Fusion-10-x-40T-x-58-Thin-Kerf-Saw-Blade.aspx

Freud's marketing spin is that the blade is the best for everything, my guess is that individual blades could do better but changing blades constantly is a PITA. I might get a dedicated plywood blade at some point, but this looks like a pretty decent combo blade.

[Jeremy Killingbeck]

I have bought a couple of the Freud Avanti blade and been fairly happy. I just picked up a 40T from rockler for $19.99. Good blade for the price. I think that Freud is discontinuing the Avanti line, so they are all being closed out.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22470

[scott spencer]

The cleanest cutting 40T general purpose blade I've used to date is the Infinity 010-044 Super General (http://www.infinitytools.com/Super-General-Saw-Blades/products/1413/)....it's very similar to the Freud P410 Fusion. It leaves a more polished edge and has less tearout on crosscuts and ply than the WWII 40T, Ridge Carbide TS2000 (http://www.holbren.com/TS2000sawblade.html), Tenryu Gold Medal (http://www.holbren.com/tenryu-gold-medal-10-40t-combination-blade.html), DeWalt/Delta 7657, CMT General (http://www.holbren.com/cmt-general-blade-10-x40-5-8-bore.html), and any of the 50T ATB/R combo blades, but the same characteristics that give it the highly polished edge can also make it more prone to burning if the isn't setup well. Adjusting the blade height can also help.

The better 50T ATB/R combo blades aren't quite as clean cutting as the better 40T examples IME, but they're clean enough for glue ready edges, and are very easy to get good results from. The Infinity Combomax (http://www.infinitytools.com/Combination-Saw-Blades/products/1196/) also happens to be the cleanest cutting of all of those type blades I've tried...LU84, Leitz, Amana 610504, DeWalt DW7640, DW7150PT, Tenryu RS25550, and PC Razor.

The best bang for the buck in a full kerf general purpose/combo blade has got to be the Delta 35-7657 from Cripe Distribution (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330335100993&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) for $28 shipped.

No reason not to stick with Infinity IMO...hard to do better, but any of these blades will do a good job.

[Michael MacDonald]

I may get chastised for this but what about a Ridgid or Freud from Home Depot? I have the Ridgid, 50T I think, combination blade and am VERY happy with it. Granted, it's edges won't stand up to the 0.0000000001" ridge scrutiny held by some here at the creek (sarcasm....haha.....) but it rips some clean edges. I don't work with too many expensive hardwoods yet, mainly project plywoods, a little oak, lots of pine, etc. I think I paid $60 for it or something. Nice thick kerf. When that one goes Dull I'm likely to buy it again. I currently see no reason for me to buy a $100 plus blade so I'll stick with my HD blade.

funny, but I was at HD a few weeks ago, looking for a blade, and I couldn't find a full kerf blade at all. I talked to a guy on the floor, and he seemed surprised that I would want a full kerf blade. He helped me get on one of their computers to resaerch my riving knife thickness... it was thin enough to handle a thin kerf blade, so I bought one... but sheesh. He said they never carry them. I looked at the rigid (most expensive) and the freud/diablo (several price levels).

so, I was trying to whittle down the edges of tenons last night, and I realized why I should have held out for a 1/8 kerf blade.... ah well.

[Jeff Miller]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51WJAN6FHEL._SL500_AA280_.jpg



http://www.amazon.com/CMT-215-050-10-Tooth-Combination-Circular/dp/B000P4JPAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1264125491&sr=1-2




I had to get a full kerf blade for my Grizzly GO690 because of the riving knife. This is one of the best blades I have purchased and the cut is very,very smooth:D


JEFF:)

[Michael MacDonald]

anyone ever try the blades at harbor freight? I was just there today, and noticed they were super cheap... as in less than $15... didn't recognize the brands.

[Tony Shea]

The cleanest cutting 40T general purpose blade I've used to date is the Infinity 010-044 Super General (http://www.infinitytools.com/Super-General-Saw-Blades/products/1413/)....


I've been contemplating the Super General as it looks like a beautiful blade. But again, the price is a bit tough to swallow...$100.

So I think I will go with Infinity just cause of the experience I just had with them and customer service, I kinda owe it to them. They also produce so great blades, as my Dadonator cuts some smooth. But between the Combomax 50Teeth or the Super General 40Teeth, what makes the 40tooth that much nicer?

The better 50T ATB/R combo blades aren't quite as clean cutting as the better 40T examples IME, but they're clean enough for glue ready edges, and are very easy to get good results from.

Why do suppose this is? On paper it seems as though the 50T blades would be cleaner cutting than the 40T. But I have no experience with either.

[scott spencer]

I've been contemplating the Super General as it looks like a beautiful blade. But again, the price is a bit tough to swallow...$100.

So I think I will go with Infinity just cause of the experience I just had with them and customer service, I kinda owe it to them. They also produce so great blades, as my Dadonator cuts some smooth. But between the Combomax 50Teeth or the Super General 40Teeth, what makes the 40tooth that much nicer?


Why do suppose this is? On paper it seems as though the 50T blades would be cleaner cutting than the 40T. But I have no experience with either.

The 40T Super General has a couple of things going on that help it cut cleaner...the steep bevel of the Hi-ATB grind has less tearout than any other grind. Another key factor is the tight side clearance, plus the dual side grind, which essentially puts more of the side of the tooth on the edge of the wood, which translates to a more polished edge. Tight side clearance is one of the factors that helps the WWII and TS2000 leave a more polished edge than many blades, but the Super General and Fusion blade take it to another level with the dual side grind. There's never a free lunch though...the "burnished edges" from all the blades with tight side clearances are more prone to become "burned" edges if all is not right with the saw.

I suspect that one of the reasons the 50T ATB/R blades tend to not cut quite as cleanly as the premium 40T blades is the aforementioned side clearance. The side clearance is not as tight on most ATB/R, which means the edges don't get as polished, but they're also more forgiving and less prone to burning. Another factor is the inclusion of a flat tooth raker on most of the ATB/R combos that helps them rip more efficiently. The flat top grinds leave them a bit more tearout on crosscuts and plywood than a straight ATB or Hi-ATB grind, and tends to leave more saw marks on the edge of the cut....it's minor, but is usually more pronounced than those left from the 40T premium blades. The Combomax chamfers the corners of that flat raker tooth to reduce tearout from it, plus it moves the raker in the middle of the 5-tooth grouping as opposed to putting it at the front of the grouping.

There are pros and cons to each, and each type will do a very nice job. The Super General (and Fusion) offer the "next level", but that's not free of cost or potential downsides.

[Glen Butler]

Freud makes a good blade and they have good value. But I wouldn't call them a premium blade. I have not used an extensive number of brands, but I do know tenryu makes very nice blades. I can see, feel, and hear the difference over the freud.

[scott spencer]

Freud makes a good blade and they have good value. But I wouldn't call them a premium blade. I have not used an extensive number of brands, but I do know tenryu makes very nice blades. I can see, feel, and hear the difference over the freud.

Ford and GM offer some base model economy cars, but they also make the GT40 and the Corvette. To be meaningful, comparisons really need to be specific about which blades and which line they come from. Freud makes the Diablo line, the Industrial line, and the Premier line. Their Premier line includes the Freud Fusion, which is indeed a premium blade IMHO. Tenryu also makes multiple lines...the Gold Medal is Tenryu's premium blade, but they also have the Rapid Cut value series that includes the RS25540 that's made in China....more similar to the Diablo value series, it's a good blade for ~$35 but doesn't compare well directly to the $100 Gold Medal or the $100 Fusion.

[Jon Grider]

Tenryu Gold Medal and Systimatic 50 T combo.

[Andrew Minear]

Have to agree with Scott about the Delta 35-7657. I removed a Forrest WWII from my Grizz 1023ZX and replaced it with the Delta, just to try it out. The rips in maple, plywood and particle board were virtually identical to the WWII. Haven't done any crosscuts yet. There doesn't seem to be a reason to reinstall the Forrest blade, right now.

Andrew

[Glen Butler]

Ford and GM offer some base model economy cars, but they also make the GT40 and the Corvette. To be meaningful, comparisons really need to be specific about which blades and which line they come from. Freud makes the Diablo line, the Industrial line, and the Premier line. Their Premier line includes the Freud Fusion, which is indeed a premium blade IMHO. Tenryu also makes multiple lines...the Gold Medal is Tenryu's premium blade, but they also have the Rapid Cut value series that includes the RS25540 that's made in China....more similar to the Diablo value series, it's a good blade for ~$35 but doesn't compare well directly to the $100 Gold Medal or the $100 Fusion.

I am sorry I was under the understanding that their industrial line was their best blade. I am comparing the Freud LU85R to the Tenryu - ML255100AB. I am not comparing cut cleanliness because they have a difference tooth count and the ATB grind it steeper on the tenryu. But I am comparing the way they run through the wood and the feel of the blade. The tenryu tracks straight with no wobble when the saw starts up. The Freud does not. This shows blade stability. I had to warranty my first Freud LU85R because it was a noodle, the new one is not as bad but still there. I have used both the Freud and Tenryu for melamine and plywood. It is not the quality or cleanness of the cut in question. It is the fact that I can hear and feel the Freud as it comes up through the rear of the cut, and there is more material thrown in my face with the Freud. It is not chipping out the material, but it vibrates slightly and I can feel this. As said above the Freud is not as stable. I notice that the Freud Premier Fusion uses polymer filler in the expansion slots. This may be the trick, as I know the Tenryu uses it.

[scott spencer]

I am sorry I was under the understanding that their industrial line was their best blade. I am comparing the Freud LU85R to the Tenryu - ML255100AB. I am not comparing cut cleanliness because they have a difference tooth count and the ATB grind it steeper on the tenryu. But I am comparing the way they run through the wood and the feel of the blade. The tenryu tracks straight with no wobble when the saw starts up. The Freud does not. This shows blade stability. I had to warranty my first Freud LU85R because it was a noodle, the new one is not as bad but still there. I have used both the Freud and Tenryu for melamine and plywood. It is not the quality or cleanness of the cut in question. It is the fact that I can hear and feel the Freud as it comes up through the rear of the cut, and there is more material thrown in my face with the Freud. It is not chipping out the material, but it vibrates slightly and I can feel this. As said above the Freud is not as stable. I notice that the Freud Premier Fusion uses polymer filler in the expansion slots. This may be the trick, as I know the Tenryu uses it.

What you describe from the LU85 is a bit of a concern. I had unfairly assumed you were referring to one of the Diablo or Avanti bargain blades. Distinctions between the Freud lines can be somewhat blurred in certain situations ...ie: the former Freud F80 (aka F810) was also originally part of their Premier line but they added the Permashield coating and made in part of the Industrial line. The LU85 is one that I haven't tried, but I thought that the LU85 is one of their more advanced blades, so what you describe is a concern.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Have to agree with Scott about the Delta 35-7657. I removed a Forrest WWII from my Grizz 1023ZX and replaced it with the Delta, just to try it out. The rips in maple, plywood and particle board were virtually identical to the WWII. Haven't done any crosscuts yet. There doesn't seem to be a reason to reinstall the Forrest blade, right now.

AndrewFirst, I earn a large portion of my living in my shop. I have a couple of WWII's (over priced, over rated), Freud LU84R, Oldham Signiture 40 tooth, and a bunch of Delta 7657's. I will put my 7657's against any of the other blades, except on melamine,or thin veneer plywood. I use specialized blades for these. For $27 dollars delivered, you can't beat the 7657's. Remember when ordering from Cripe, their shipping charges don't increase much for additional units. Last time I checked, five delivered were right at $100, which is less than the cost of one WWII.

[Jason White]

Having used various cheap 50-tooth combo blades in the past, I finally spend a little more money on a Freud Industrial 40 tooth, regular kerf. This is the better quality silver one (made in Italy), not the red one.

Wow, what a difference!! 40 tooth is much better for ripping operations for obvious reasons. Crosscuts are nice and smooth.

Price wasn't bad either. I think I paid close to $60 for it. Sales guy said I'd likely get 4-5 sharpenings out of it.

Jason



I guess I've decided to get myself a decent combination blade for my table saw. I recently just been switching back and forth between my 24 tooth rip blade and my 80 tooth crosscut blade. But recently I have been doing a lot with softer woods, especially pine and ripping pine with a 24 toother doesn't really give me a very clean cut. The crosscut is fine though and would still use the 80 tooth blade for this. I just think a 40 or 50 tooth blade would do a much better job for a clean rip and would work for the occasional crosscut.

I don't really want to spend $100 or more for a Forrest. I'm stuck between Freud or Infinity. I'm leaning towards Infinity as they have treated me great recently but I do like my Freud's. Other suggestions are welcome as well. Any opinions and experiences with combo blades would be great.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

As I thought from the title, you'd get more opinions about saw blades that anything else on this forum!:)

One thing I'll add is the amount of prep time you'll need to spend, or not spend. I have a Freud glue line rip and a Forrest. Either gives a glue ready cut, so 1 or 2 passes with 220 grit, and it's finish ready. That being said, I have to try the Delta 28 buck blade..... If anything, I can use it for a nail finder in recycled flooring I have.... J/K :D One can never have too many blades.