Splitter ideas for thin-kerf blade on contractor saw

[Peter Pedisich]

Hi,

I finally put a thin kerf rip blade on my Bridgewood 10" contractors saw, and the splitter is too thick - what's the best option to deal with this?

1) Go back to a full-kerf blade
2) Make my own splitter from 0.090" Aluminum using the existing one as a template.
3) Find an aftermarket splitter for my saw. (don't know of any)

I really would like a riving knife, but I'll settle for a splitter that removes easily and has anti-kickback pawls, as I use it all the time.

Anyone deal with this problem on this saw?

Thanks!

Pete

[scott spencer]

Full kerf blades should be fine until you get into very thick ripping. I always had good luck with high quality TK's on my smaller saws. IIRC, the Bridgewood is similar to the PM64, GI, Grizzly, and older Jet contractor saws.

The MJ Splitters (http://www.amazon.com/MJ-SPLITTER-Kerf-Saw-Blade/dp/B000H570BU)are well regarded, but there are no anti-kickback pawls.

The Shark Guard might be a good choice.

[Jerome Hanby]

I think building a ZCI and adding a Micro Jig Splitter (http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=10870). That link was for Woodcraft but Amazon has them too (from Peachtree) Think price is a bit less, and SMC could get a little kickback...

[Derrell W Sloan]

Here is another option.

http://www.grip-tite.com/splitter.html

I have one I use with a thin kerf blade and have been very happy with it.

[scott spencer]

...and SMC could get a little kickback...


Pun intended?! :D

[Russ Filtz]

For only 90-deg cuts, simply drill a hole in your throat plate behind the blade and insert a drill bit of slight less diameter than your kerf. I guess you could also make several of these if you do certain angles all the time and can index the blade to the plate perfectly each time. Wish my saw had a riving knife!