ATF55 E-Plus Circular saw Eval - Pics.

[Dennis Peacock]

Some of you have been waiting for my review of Festool's ATF55 E-Plus Circular Saw....so here it is.

Note: The views here are my own and the eval was done by me and Joe Meazle who may even post his own thoughts and concerns later on. :rolleyes:

This eval was done on my own time and is my own opinion of this Saw as I see it. Your mileage may vary, but I do have a $150 DeWalt Circular saw to compare it too....and I will when it comes to the cuts made on the Guiderail system. :)

The ATF55 was packed very well and was contined inside it's own Systainer. The use of the Systainer is pretty neat as it will "lock" to the top of the Festool Vac's for compact carrying as an entire unit for easier portability.

First things noticed upon removal from the Systainer:
1. It has a "stamped steel" sawplate. First appearance kinda gives one the feeling that it's cheap. Maybe I was just too used to my DeWalt circular saw that has a nice aluminum plate as the saw plate.
2. The fit and finish is very well done and up to the normal standards for Festool.
3. It's lighter in weight than my DeWalt circular saw.
4. It is variable speed.
5. It's a "Plunge Type" saw.

Now....let's see and go over some of the features of this saw.

The first pic is of the saw asleep in it's Systainer. :p

In the next pic you'll see the business side of the saw. The blade and riving knife is completely covered by the side housing of the saw. This is a big plus in my opinion as it protects you and the saw blade from injury. The default position for the saw is in the "non-plunged" sitting position.

The next pic is a good look at the "Variable Speed Control" (round star knob on the left of the saw handle) so you can dial in the speed you want from 1 to 6. The Green LED says when the saw is at full speed and the Red LED comes on when the saw reaches 70% of the overload rating of the saw. If the saw reaches an "overload" state, the saw simply shuts itsself off.
The Green button on the rear of the trigger is the "trigger lock" and is operated via you righ-hand thumb. Pushing this up releases the lock to allow you to turn on and plunge the saw with one easy motion. Honestly, it's not as bad as you think. Once you try it more than once, it becomes a simple thing to do.

The next photo shows the sawblade / riving knife extended beyond the saw guard and to access the screws to remove the blade or riving knife is exposed in the "windows" cut into the saw guard.

The next photo gives us a good view from the top side of the saw.

The Round Green knob closest to the sawblade and slightly in front of the saw handle is the "Spindle Lock" for locking the saw spindle so you don't have to hold the sawblade while removing or puting on a new sawblade.

The On/Off switch for the saw is the usual "trigger" type switch located opposite side of the Trigger Lock on the handle.

[Dennis Peacock]

Next we see the front edge of the saw with it sitting on one of the guiderails. You'll notice a black knob on the left-bottom side of the saw front. There are TWO of these and are the way to lock the saw at any angle from 49 degrees to 0 degrees....or I guess you could say, from a 90 degree cut to a 49 degree cut. Either way you want to say it works for me. The depth stop is directly behind that knob and is released and locked with a phillips screwdriver as opposed to the allen head type screw that is on the blade/riving knife and 90 degree stop. More on this later.

Moving on, we see what it's like to do a 45 degree cut on the guiderail. More on this later as well.

Last but not least of the pics.

We see that there is a "round" rubber end to the dust collection hose that is a "firm" pressed fit into the "not-so-round" dust exhaust port on the saw. Surprisingly enough, it holds well and dust collection with a vac attached is very good. There is a single inside rib that "locks" the hose in place and takes a little "tugging" to get in out.

Next....is the "cast-in" Bevel Guage, the rear saw tilt locking knob. If you'll notice....the bevel indicator is "square" at the top of the pointer and can get confusing when in the non-90 degree cut position. "Which side to I read that from?"

[Dennis Peacock]

<b>Pros: </b>

1. Very well made.
2. Well balanced overall.
3. Very Quiet when compared to other circular saws.
4. High quality standards.
5. Cuts clean.
6. Almost 100% dust collection at the saw.
7. Adjustment points for removing the slop out of the saw for guiderail use.
8. Plunge operation is extremely smooth and easy.
9. Variable speed for when you are cutting soft metals or stone.
10. All adjustments are easy to make.
11. Makes plunge cuts very easy (after removing the riving knife)
12. Making a cut with this saw ALWAYS directs the saw AWAY from the operator (due to the plunge action that already puts the operator in the forward motion mindset).
13. Depth of cut adjustment is easy to make via the depth stop near the front of the saw.

<b>Cons:</b>

Very few to list here on this.

1. Bevel guage is difficult to impossible to read and adjust accurately.
2. You have to use TWO hand for a 45 degree cut when using the guiderail for a "safer cut". Without the left hand support? The saw would have a very easy time to slide or slip off the guiderail and would ruin your saw cut or even cause personal injury.
3. It takes more than one tool to make all the necessary adjustments on this saw. The onboard tool is not the single tool solution for this saw.

Here is a shot of the saw / guiderail while making a 45 degree cut "unsupported" by the left hand (as shown above) and the last pic is the same exact cut but only this time, including the left hand for support of the cut.

<b>Suggestions for Festool:</b>

1. Let the Vac run for 5 seconds instead of the now 1 Second run time when the tool is turned off at the tool.
2. Move the onboard allen wrench to the Front of the saw and put a "knob" on the rear of the saw (left rear corner) so you will have something to hold on to during any non-90 Degree cut on the guiderail.
3. Do something about the bevel guage. It's awful and hard to read. Don't cast the bevel guage, machine it or even apply a metal strip with the marking on it and rivet it to the location.
4. Change the bevel indicator from "square" to at least a dull point.
5. Change out the little bitty screws where you adjust out the slop of the saw plate to the guiderail to the same allen head screws so that the provided allen wrench can also adjust the "play" in the saw plate.

That's all I could find. Eveything else is up to the Festool Standards.

Nice Saw Festool....Now...about those improvements.?????

Thanks for reading. :D

[Greg Mann]

6. Change the "Phillips" head screw on the depth adjustment to the same exact Allen head screw so that you don't have to "hunt" for a phillips screwdriver to adjust it.


First, thanks Dennis, for the review. Once again we seem to see the same things, but I don't understand item 6. I also have a Phillips head screw in the depth adjustment but I believe it is there to just hold the adjuster together as all I need to do is push the adjuster in against the spring pressure and move the stop along the arc until I get the setting I want. Couldn't be easier and requires no tool. Try it and see if you can make it function that way. I think this makes it one of the best feature of the saw. Thanks again for the time you are putting into these reviews.

Greg

[Frank Pellow]

Thanks for the review Dennis. As someone who has used this saw a LOT over the last 8 months, I agree with your suggested improvements (except 6 which I don't understand). I had thought of a couple of them but certainly not all of them. Well done!

[John Miliunas]

Thanks for reading. :D

NO! Thank YOU for giving us a great review on a product many of us are interested in knowing more about. :) For instance, the LED alert lights were not something I was aware of and I think are a nice feature! I had also forgotten about the variable speed function. I had also never heard anyone referring to it as being quieter than most circular saws. :D See there...I got a LOT out of it! (Believe it or not, even us Cheeseheads can be trained!)

One question I do have is: You mention taking the riving knife off for plunge cuts, which makes a lot of sense. But, how difficult a procedure is that? :confused:

Thanks again for all the time and effort you've put into the review and I'm NOT saying that just due to the flack from the last one. I thought it was well done, too and told you so! :D :cool:

[Jack Diemer]

Great review again, but I feel compelled to ask.

1) If someone gave you $159 for your Dewalt saw today, would you pay the extra to buy this saw tomorrow. (If yes, why) PS, I always ask people iwho review tools if the tool is worth the money no matter who the manufacturer is.

2) Does the saw really collect all the dust? My table saw has overarm dust collection and downdraft dust collection and some dust still gets out. (especially when I do MDF)

3) I have heard of people that bought this saw in conjunction with the FestoolTable and sold there table saw. Any comments.

4) How nice is that blade that came with it, it looks like my WWII from a distance.


I like your ideas on the screws, I have had that complaint on other tools.

[Joe Meazle]

Dennis,

Great job on the write up. You included most of the ideas that we discussed. All that I can add is that I was very impressed with the plunge cut concept. This required downward push eliminates the concern of guiderail flex. These is no need to place lateral pressure to keep the saw against the guide rail as there is with my home made guide or clamp and tool guide. This coupled with the nonslip gripper strips on the guide makes long guides stable and usable. I would have liked to have tested it on some wide rough cut boards. If the guide rail does not slip there then you have an easy to create a straight edge on rough lumber. Other than that I would only be echoing what Dennis already stated. I had many of the same responses. A couple of point bear repeating as they really seem out of place on a $$$$ cir saw. The stamped steel base plate was the first thing that I noticed. It seems to work fine but anyone that has dropped a Cir saw on a concrete floor know that a steel base plate is never the same after that. I would like to see an Al extrusion or something more comparable with high en conventional Cir saws. That bevel gauge is the weakest part of the saw in my opinion not up to Festool standards by any means. Let me give a little of the small shop perspective for those of us who do not have 1000 sf + shops. This saw is very expensive when compared with other cir saws but cheap when compared to panel saw and sliding tables. Would it replace these for everyone, doubtful, but in the small shop it has the advantage of taking up no floor space when not in use. Overall I think this tool would be a useful addition to my shop but I am going to wait and see if any of the suggested improvements make into future generations. Thanks again Dennis for including me. I had a great time. I did get grounded for staying out past curfew but should be regaining some privileges soon, if I can just watch what I say. Thanks for letting me add my $.02
Joe

[Frank Pellow]

Dennis,

...
I would have liked to have tested it on some wide rough cut boards. If the guide rail does not slip there then you have an easy to create a straight edge on rough lumber.
...


Joe, I did use the saw quite a bit on wide rough cut boards and was very happy with the result. See the thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=12900

[Jim Becker]

Very nice review, Dennis. I'm looking even more forward to using mine quite often!

[Joe Meazle]

Frank,

Thanks, The rail did a great job on ply but I was unsure about any slipping on a rough surface. It does ssem that it would be simpler to use the Guide rail instead of some type of saw carrage for the TS.
Joe

[Scott Parks]

Dennis, thanks for the reviews. I appreciate reviews because I mostly base my tool purchases on OPE. (Other Peoples Experiences)

It seems to me that Festool is the rave to own right now. So far what I see is that Festool makes nice "ergonomic" and thoughtful tools. I like the ideas on the ATF55 such as plunge cut, riving knife, and guide rail. I'm sure it makes life easier (compared to generic CS). Is there a system for making repeated rip cuts at the same width? (such as setting a fence on TS)

And somewhat related.... Are you guys buying Festool tools for their superb quality and dust collection, popularity, or because of deals (if there are any) to acquire them at a reasonable cost? Dennis, does this tool replace your DeWalt CS, or is it a demo/promotion? In general, what is it that makes Festool tools desireable to own (over Brand X)? Or is this like comparing a Geo to Porches? Is Festool even in the same class as DW, PC or Delta? It's hard for me to compare when the only place I know to see one is on the internet. I'd love to own Festool tools due to their portablility and Dust extractor, but I can't justify the cost. (I'm not trying to talk bad about the cost of festool) But if it is really worth the cost, I'll ante up. (my wife shot me down when I showed her the price of the Rotex and Dust extractor I wanted:(. To me this is worth it if there is little to no dust as claimed)

I can't wait until the WW show next month so I can see firsthand what the Festool buzz is all about. Remember, this is just MY opinion, but comments as a hobbyist, Festool is not affordable. For my needs, this saw may not be practical. However, I think I will save up for the sander anyway...

[Jim Becker]

Don't forget that if you need the extra security of clamps for the guide, they are available (actually made by Bessey for Festool) to slide into the channel on the bottom of the guide rails and securely fix the guide on objects that you are concerned with the guide sliding, such as on some rough or irregular surfaces. Because of their design, these clams, which are simliar to the light-duty Tradesman clamps with a special "nose", do not interfere with the top of the guide rail--they are used entirely under it.

[Dennis Peacock]

First, thanks Dennis, for the review. Once again we seem to see the same things, but I don't understand item 6. I also have a Phillips head screw in the depth adjustment but I believe it is there to just hold the adjuster together as all I need to do is push the adjuster in against the spring pressure and move the stop along the arc until I get the setting I want. Couldn't be easier and requires no tool. Try it and see if you can make it function that way. I think this makes it one of the best feature of the saw. Thanks again for the time you are putting into these reviews.

Greg

Greg,

I have made that correction in my review as well as the Overload (red led) rating of the saw. Thanks for your input.

[Dennis Peacock]

Great review again, but I feel compelled to ask.

1) If someone gave you $159 for your Dewalt saw today, would you pay the extra to buy this saw tomorrow. (If yes, why) PS, I always ask people iwho review tools if the tool is worth the money no matter who the manufacturer is.

2) Does the saw really collect all the dust? My table saw has overarm dust collection and downdraft dust collection and some dust still gets out. (especially when I do MDF)

3) I have heard of people that bought this saw in conjunction with the FestoolTable and sold there table saw. Any comments.

4) How nice is that blade that came with it, it looks like my WWII from a distance.


I like your ideas on the screws, I have had that complaint on other tools.

Jack,

Allow me to be both open and honest here.

Answers:
1. I would if I had the difference in money to make up the total purchase price. The only real thing I would be cautious of is the saw plate. I've dropped my DeWalt off the roof of a couple of houses, dropped it on the concrete a few times and it has also fell out of the back of my old truck (when I had one) a time or two and the aluminum plate is still in the best of shape.

2. Collect ALL the dust....well no....it does collect about 99% of the dust and leave just a few fine pieces that escapes the saw guard during the cut. More on this when I post about the guiderails. Take a good look at the last pic I posted. That's all the dust from 2 full cuts on 3/4" plywood.

3. I don't have the Festool Table. Without that I can't really say. But I would prefer to honestly keep my TS for dado and multiple, same size cuts.

4. Its a great blade. It's not a WWII. It is Festool's blade that came on the saw and cuts are nearly glass smooth when you used the guiderail.

[Dennis Peacock]

NO! Thank YOU for giving us a great review on a product many of us are interested in knowing more about. :) For instance, the LED alert lights were not something I was aware of and I think are a nice feature! I had also forgotten about the variable speed function. I had also never heard anyone referring to it as being quieter than most circular saws. :D See there...I got a LOT out of it! (Believe it or not, even us Cheeseheads can be trained!)

One question I do have is: You mention taking the riving knife off for plunge cuts, which makes a lot of sense. But, how difficult a procedure is that? :confused:

Thanks again for all the time and effort you've put into the review and I'm NOT saying that just due to the flack from the last one. I thought it was well done, too and told you so! :D :cool:

John,

Removing the riving knife is as simple as removing the sawblade. Putting it back on is easy and has a slot in it to align it with the sawblade.

[Dennis Peacock]

Is there a system for making repeated rip cuts at the same width? (such as setting a fence on TS)

And somewhat related.... Are you guys buying Festool tools for their superb quality and dust collection, popularity, or because of deals (if there are any) to acquire them at a reasonable cost?
Dennis, does this tool replace your DeWalt CS, or is it a demo/promotion? In general, what is it that makes Festool tools desireable to own (over Brand X)? Or is this like comparing a Geo to Porches?
Is Festool even in the same class as DW, PC or Delta?
To me this is worth it if there is little to no dust as claimed)


Scott,
1. Repeating the exact same width cuts? Not exactly. Unless the Festool Table adds this functionality, you don't have it with the saw and guiderail setup. I tried it and did get close but not exactly the same width.

2. I'm buying Festool tools due to me wearing out my other tools and after going through 4 ROS's, I decided to try a Festool Sander. I've never looked back. My hands don't ache any more and the sandpaper lasts a lot longer and dust collection is great.

3. It would replace my DeWalt CS. Desirable to own? A well made tool that feels good in the hand, is smooth in many functions and offers near total dust collection at the tool is why this setup would be my number 1 choice. If you suffer sinus problem due to wood dust, you would want the best dust collection at the tool you can get.

4. Remember that this saw is part of a total solution (a system if you will) for chip free cuts, dust control and the abililty to plunge cut in the middle of a sheet of plywood without worrying about depth of cut. You can do a plunge cut with a standard CS....but NOT with the entire saw sitting on top of the wood, safe and secure and without exposing yourself to the spinning blade.

I agree on price. All of the Festool "tools" are expensive and I'm a hobbiest too with the occassional commission piece. For me, my safety and health are a concern....so I buy the best I can until I learn better down the road and then I buy again. Smart? No....as it causes me to spend MORE in the long run that if I bought what I really should have to begin with.

I'm not employed by Festool nor am I paid by Festool for any review I do on a Festool "tool". Just a happy and satisfied customer.

[Scott Parks]

Scott,
2. I'm buying Festool tools due to me wearing out my other tools and after going through 4 ROS's, I decided to try a Festool Sander. I've never looked back. My hands don't ache any more and the sandpaper lasts a lot longer and dust collection is great.

3. It would replace my DeWalt CS. Desirable to own? A well made tool that feels good in the hand, is smooth in many functions and offers near total dust collection at the tool is why this setup would be my number 1 choice. If you suffer sinus problem due to wood dust, you would want the best dust collection at the tool you can get.

Smart? No....as it causes me to spend MORE in the long run that if I bought what I really should have to begin with.

Dennis, once again, thank you for your input. This helps answer a lot of my questions, as I've been interested in buying a sander, and upgrading my TS. (and push the issue further with LOML why I need to spend more money on tools, as she doesnt understand my obsession with tools or dirtbikes) I think these are all good reasons to go "green". I'm sold on the quality and dust issues. I can't even go near my sander without getting sick. I currently have to sand and saw out in the driveway with a mask on. (Gotta get my cyclone set up, but that's a whole different story).. And I too have made the mistake of buying 4 cheap things instead of buy the good one to start with.

As a side note, has anyone tried hooking a Festool tool directly to a DC instead of the dust extractor?

[Michael Stafford]

Thank you both, Dennis and Joe. I am not rushing out to buy a circular saw of any make right away but with your information any one interested has the scoop on a tool with a lot of versatility. No doubt the best tool reviews come from experienced tool users. Good job, guys!

[Christian Aufreiter]

Hi Dennis,

thanks for this review. I definitely appreciate your input and your commitment.

Regards,

Christian

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks, Dennis...nice review.

For those interested, John Lucas' site has our own Bob Marino showing how he jointed two boards with this saw.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-53.htm

[Scott Coffelt]

Dennis,

Thanks for the review. This is one tool that is at the top or at least in the top 5 of my planned purchases. Very detailed and from what I can tell a fair assessment.

One question, you mentioned about also testing out the EZ Guide system. Were you able to do that and any idea when we will be seeing it's review and then subsequent head-to-head comparisons? That's the real jewel I am looking for.

Also, I am not sure I would want to take the Festool to a job site, I would prefer to have a cheaper CS that I wouldn't be worried about dropping. $375 is too much to be risking. The two main selling point for me so far is the dust collection and the accuracy of hitting the pencil marks, time and time again.

[John Miliunas]

For those interested, John Lucas' site has our own Bob Marino showing how he jointed two boards with this saw.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/fes-53.htm

Yeah. Saw it. What a ham! :D :D :cool:

[Jim Fancher]

Great review and pics. They are very appreciated. I'm in the market for a new CS and have been debating on whether or not to get the Festool. At first I balked at the price. Then I started eyeing the saw/vacuum combo kit.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Dennis, great, informative review. Thanks!

[JayStPeter]

Nice review Dennis. A lot of what you said is exactly what I would've said.


John,

Removing the riving knife is as simple as removing the sawblade. Putting it back on is easy and has a slot in it to align it with the sawblade.

I find the riving knife to be a bit of an annoyance. It reminds me of a tape measure. It seems I'm constantly trying to bend it one way or another to fit the kerf at the start of the cut. Once the knife gets into the kerf, no problems. But the initial bump and attempt to bang it into the kerf is aggrivating. Even though it is a nice safety feature, I don't use it anymore.


... Does the saw really collect all the dust? My table saw has overarm dust collection and downdraft dust collection and some dust still gets out. (especially when I do MDF)


There is no comparison as far as DC goes. The Festool is way better than my TS with overarm DC. There is also an available accessory dust shield that covers the windows in the side of the saw. It brings the saw up to nearly 100% DC. It does a particularly good job on MDF. Hardboard is about the only thing I've found that still leaves a little dust. It does seem that the dust left after the cut is really the heavy pieces, not the fine airborne. The exception is when you make a cut where the blade isn't buried (ie. skimming off the edge of a piece), then it's more like a TS. Overall, the DC is much better than any other saw I have. This alone makes this saw worth the money to me.


...Is there a system for making repeated rip cuts at the same width? (such as setting a fence on TS)
...

I made a repeatability jig that helps get repeatable accurate rips. For crosscuts, I'm still struggling with framing squares and such. I believe a MFT will help, but I haven't seen one in action yet. Festool also sells an "angle unit" that attaches to the rails, but again I haven't used one.
IMO, This is a weakness of GCSSs in general.



3) I have heard of people that bought this saw in conjunction with the FestoolTable and sold there table saw. Any comments.


I'm not considering giving up my TS, but I am reworking my shop layout to support a Festool station of some TBD form.


This eval was done on my own time and is my own opinion of this Saw as I see it. Your mileage may vary, but I do have a $150 DeWalt Circular saw to compare it too....and I will when it comes to the cuts made on the Guiderail system. :)


Thanks for the review Dennis. I think it gives a very good list of pros and cons for someone considering this unit. Two thumbs up :D

Jay

[Greg Mann]

Dennis, once again, thank you for your input. This helps answer a lot of my questions, as I've been interested in buying a sander, and upgrading my TS. (and push the issue further with LOML why I need to spend more money on tools, as she doesnt understand my obsession with tools or dirtbikes)
So here's the solution, Scott. You gotta give up the dirt bikes!:D

[Greg Mann]

Nice review Dennis. A lot of what you said is exactly what I would've said.



I find the riving knife to be a bit of an annoyance. It reminds me of a tape measure. It seems I'm constantly trying to bend it one way or another to fit the kerf at the start of the cut. Once the knife gets into the kerf, no problems. But the initial bump and attempt to bang it into the kerf is aggrivating. Even though it is a nice safety feature, I don't use it anymore.



Jay
Jay,

I have never had a hang up with the riving knife. For me it's been out of sight/ out of mind, I forget it's there half the time. Do you think it got bent somehow or the mount might have been compromised? Could've happened before you even got it?

Greg

[Bob Marino]

Jay,

I have never had a hang up with the riving knife. For me it's been out of sight/ out of mind, I forget it's there half the time. Do you think it got bent somehow or the mount might have been compromised? Could've happened before you even got it?

Greg
Jay,

Greg is correct, out of sight, our of mind. There should be no hang-ups. I would check to make sure it's not bent.

Bob

[Dennis Peacock]

Jay,

I experienced zero problems with the splitter. In fact, I simply forgot it was even there until I was testing the ability to do a mid-sheet plunge cut. :rolleyes: I did notice that it does not give me the "kickback" that I sometimes get with my other CS and I guess that's the splitter doing it's job.

[Gene Collison]

Jack,

Allow me to be both open and honest here.

Answers:
1. I would if I had the difference in money to make up the total purchase price. The only real thing I would be cautious of is the saw plate. I've dropped my DeWalt off the roof of a couple of houses, dropped it on the concrete a few times and it has also fell out of the back of my old truck (when I had one) a time or two and the aluminum plate is still in the best of shape.

Dennis,

Nice test, as an owner and frequent user I would agree on all counts except I would like to comment on the saw plate or shoe. I would imagine that Festool used a sheetmetal shoe because of the characteristics of aluminum sliding against aluminum. Usually when you have two of the same metals sliding against each other like an aluminum shoe and rail they will eventually gall. The use of disimilar metals easily solves that problem and there should never be any galling problems, the saw should slide nicely on that rail for the life of the tool.
Another comment I would like to add as a user are some of the advantages of the variable speed control. I hardly ever run mine at full throttle, I have found that I can rip even 8/4 lumber at a very leisurely pace with the same nice finish on almost minimum speed with no burning or any other negatives. It reduces the anxiety level with a nice quiet saw and without the need to rush the cut because of the fear of burning the cut.
You are spot on about the bevel guage, I have only made one bevel cut with mine and had to set it with a protractor with the blade plunged, I was short one hand.
Nice test, thanks..

Gene

[Chris Padilla]

You are spot on about the bevel guage, I have only made one bevel cut with mine and had to set it with a protractor with the blade plunged, I was short one hand.
Nice test, thanks..

Gene
:eek: Gee, I hope you meant that you needed a total of 3 hands because the other meaning would imply that you forgot to unplug the sucker and accidentally triggered the saw on! :eek: :rolleyes: ;) :D

[Dennis Peacock]

Well Gene,

I did that test....slowed the saw to 50% speed and cut a piece of 3/4" plywood and the cut was very noticably fuzzy and "checky". The same cut in the same plywood with the saw on full speed resulted in a perfect cut. I believe it depends on the material you are cutting that will or can give flexability to speed control. I don't have every kind of material there is to check it out on....so I have to go on my findings and your word. Which is great for me. :eek:

[Chris Padilla]

Gee, Dennis, that is a darn good-looking avatar...darn good.... ;)

[Dennis Peacock]

Gene,

You stated: " I would imagine that Festool used a sheetmetal shoe because of the characteristics of aluminum sliding against aluminum."

The Guiderails I have doesn't allow the sawplate to ride directly on the guiderails. There are two strips of what appears to be UHMW in Festool Green that the sawplate rides on. So there is no direct contact with the guiderail from the sawplate. Steve Jenkins has the older guiderails and with his, there IS direct contact of the sawplate to the guiderail. The newer rails solves some problems Frestool discovered with the previous model rails. A much better improvement IMHO......

The new model rails look like this:

[Gene Collison]

:eek: Gee, I hope you meant that you needed a total of 3 hands because the other meaning would imply that you forgot to unplug the sucker and accidentally triggered the saw on! :eek: :rolleyes: ;) :D
___________

Can't happen with the AT55, just the ezone and a Skil wormdrive!!!!!!

Gene

[Gene Collison]

Gene,

You stated: " I would imagine that Festool used a sheetmetal shoe because of the characteristics of aluminum sliding against aluminum."

The Guiderails I have doesn't allow the sawplate to ride directly on the guiderails. There are two strips of what appears to be UHMW in Festool Green that the sawplate rides on. So there is no direct contact with the guiderail from the sawplate. Steve Jenkins has the older guiderails and with his, there IS direct contact of the sawplate to the guiderail. The newer rails solves some problems Frestool discovered with the previous model rails. A much better improvement IMHO......

The new model rails look like this:

_________

Dennis,

I guess I'm wrong on both counts then. I have the older rail. But let me win one, if the saw base was aluminum it would have galled in no time flat, it should not happen with disimilar metals. I use my saw all the time on low speed and get very satisfactory cuts, better than a typical circular saw IMO. Your deed speed may have been faster than mine too.

Gene

[Greg Mann]

_________

Dennis,

I guess I'm wrong on both counts then. I have the older rail. But let me win one, if the saw base was aluminum it would have galled in no time flat, it should not happen with disimilar metals. I use my saw all the time on low speed and get very satisfactory cuts, better than a typical circular saw IMO. Your deed speed may have been faster than mine too.

Gene

Technically, you are still not wrong, Gene, as there is metal to metal contact along the walls of the rib and groove. I believe an aluminum groove in the baseplate would be inviting trouble of just the nature you were suggesting. Notice that the groove has an open top, I suspect to allow debris to find its way to the nearest exit.

Greg

[Mark Singer]

Dennis,

Great review! I can't agree that it colects 99% of the sawdust...I would guess it is more like 80% ...a fair amount comes of the saw...from my experience

[Paul Berendsohn]

Gene Collison says:
"Can't happen with the AT55, just the ezone and a Skil wormdrive!!!!!!
Gene"

Gene... If your "witty" comment is meant to imply that an accident of that type is somehow a liklihood with a Skil wormdrive (regardless of the guide system) I think you owe the manufacturers of both products an apology. To imply even jokingly that their tools are somehow inherently unsafe, especially in a case where someone makes a ummmm... boneheaded move... such as the one you are describing does a disservice to both. A power tool, as I'm sure you are aware, is like a firearm in a sense. You shouldn't be pulling the trigger unless you mean to use it. So if you pull the trigger on a Festool product after forgetting that it's plugged in, does it not turn on? (You aren't a product liability lawyer perchance?)

I can see why Dino may feel put upon when comments like that are made. Can't say as I've noticed him (or anyone else for that matter) implying the Festool system is unsafe in any way.

Paul

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Nice review Dennis! I love reading these since I am always on the tool hunt for future purchases. Thanks for taking the time to do the review and answer all the Q's.

[Dennis Peacock]

Gentlemen,

Let's not get into this thing of slamming a line of tools of ANY sort. Generally speaking, Any tool is safe. If you never touch it and you never turn it on, one never gets hurt. A guiderail system, no matter who's it is, is not the cause for injury. It's usually the "operator" that causes the problem and results in injury.

That's like saying that MTD is at fault because 2 people got hurt while using a Murray lawnmower as a hedge trimmer when they dropped the mower (while they were holding it over their heads and trimming a hedge row) and cause serious personal injury to both of them. :eek: Was Murray at fauly? No and that's as far as I'm going on that one. :rolleyes:

Now....no slamming any manufacturer and let's let this thread exist. Please?

[Paul Berendsohn]

Thanks for that Dennis... I couldn't agree more. Nice review, and a very informative thread.

Paul

[Dennis Peacock]

Nice review Dennis! I love reading these since I am always on the tool hunt for future purchases. Thanks for taking the time to do the review and answer all the Q's.

Kelly,

Thanks for your input as it always add value to a thread. :D
BTW, thanks for sending me your "kay-so" re-cipee as well as the Saw-suh re-cipee!!! ;) :p :D

[Gene Collison]

Gene Collison says:
"Can't happen with the AT55, just the ezone and a Skil wormdrive!!!!!!
Gene"

Gene... If your "witty" comment is meant to imply that an accident of that type is somehow a liklihood with a Skil wormdrive (regardless of the guide system) I think you owe the manufacturers of both products an apology. To imply even jokingly that their tools are somehow inherently unsafe, especially in a case where someone makes a ummmm... boneheaded move... such as the one you are describing does a disservice to both. A power tool, as I'm sure you are aware, is like a firearm in a sense. You shouldn't be pulling the trigger unless you mean to use it. So if you pull the trigger on a Festool product after forgetting that it's plugged in, does it not turn on? (You aren't a product liability lawyer perchance?)

I can see why Dino may feel put upon when comments like that are made. Can't say as I've noticed him (or anyone else for that matter) implying the Festool system is unsafe in any way.

Paul

___________

It was nothing more than a joke Paul, that is why I spelled it ezone. Please take it as such. I could have taken Chris Padillas comment the same way if I worked on it.

Gene

[Chris Padilla]

Gene,

You just need to throw in more smilies and such! Like: :D :p ;) :rolleyes: :eek: :o

:cool:

[John Miliunas]

Hey Gene, how could anyone take a guy with THAT nose seriously, in the first place?! :eek: :D :cool:

[Dennis Peacock]

It was nothing more than a joke Paul, that is why I spelled it ezone. Please take it as such. I could have taken Chris Padillas comment the same way if I worked on it.

Gene

Thanks Gene. ;)

[Gene Collison]

Gene,

You just need to throw in more smilies and such! Like: :D :p ;) :rolleyes: :eek: :o

:cool:

I know, I know LOL!!!

Gene

[Steve Clardy]

Hey Gene, how could anyone take a guy with THAT nose seriously, in the first place?! :eek: :D :cool:
Hey Hey Hey. Back off on my twin:eek: will ya!!!
He's just as good looking as I am!!!:D:D:D

And beings He's part of the pic police, He'll be watching you real close now.:eek:

Steve:)

[Gene Collison]

Hey Gene, how could anyone take a guy with THAT nose seriously, in the first place?! :eek: :D :cool:

____________

You can't! The nose says it all!

Gene

[Chris Padilla]

Easy there, Miliunas.... I done got kin close to ya and just as ugly!! ;)

[Ed Falis]

...I'm not considering giving up my TS, but I am reworking my shop layout to support a Festool station of some TBD form.
...

I've found the Eureka SmartTable kit works very well with the ATF-55 if you don't need what the MFT has.

- Ed

[John Miliunas]

Easy there, Miliunas.... I done got kin close to ya and just as ugly!! ;)

Yikes! :eek: Well, as long as they have the same facial "features", they should be easy to spot! :D :) :cool:

[JayStPeter]

I've found the Eureka SmartTable kit works very well with the ATF-55 if you don't need what the MFT has.

- Ed

Yeah, I 've looked at that. That level of portability isn't an issue in this plan. I'm thinking of making a large outfeed table for my TS. But, I need to evaluate my need/desire for the MFT functions. I'm hoping to check one out at one of the WW shows this season.

Jay

[JayStPeter]

Jay,

I have never had a hang up with the riving knife. For me it's been out of sight/ out of mind, I forget it's there half the time. Do you think it got bent somehow or the mount might have been compromised? Could've happened before you even got it?

Greg

Sounds like all are in agreement here. My riving knife is probably the culprit.

I do remember some of the first cuts I made having this problem. But, it is possible that I did it as the actual first cuts I made were freehand through some 2x8s that weren't well supported. It is very likely that the knife is permanently tweaked now as I've done some yanking on it to try to get it centered properly :eek: .

I have a gash in one of my guides from attempting a plunge cut with the riving kinfe still in place :rolleyes: . It levered the saw out of the guide slot and skipped across the guide. :eek: I was too tired to be in the shop at the time.

In conclusion, either I REALLY need a new riving knife, or I'm better off without one. ;) :D :eek: :o :p (enough smilies Chris?)

Jay

[Frank Pellow]

...
In conclusion, either I REALLY need a new riving knife, or I'm better off without one. ;) :D :eek: :o :p (enough smilies Chris?)

Jay

I really like my riving knife. You should get a new one!

[Ed Falis]

Yeah, I 've looked at that. That level of portability isn't an issue in this plan. I'm thinking of making a large outfeed table for my TS. But, I need to evaluate my need/desire for the MFT functions. I'm hoping to check one out at one of the WW shows this season.

Jay

Jay,

I don't use it as a portable, except when I want to use the big toolbox under it to hold something else. The extendible sacrificial supports just work really well for cutting and other things. Won't do as an outfeed table, though. (Unless you put a sheet of plywood or something - melamine? - on top when using it for outfeed).

- Ed

[JayStPeter]

I really like my riving knife. You should get a new one!

Doh, one more smilie required ;) .

It probably helped during the situation that may have bent it. So, I'll try to bang the one I have straight. If not, I'll add one to my next Festool order ... when is that OF1400 coming out again? :D

Jay

[Chris Padilla]

Jay,

I'm sure our own Mr. Marino would be only too happy to help you out. I bet he can send you a new part and then help you install it. Frank recently posted about some darn good CS from Festool. I say take advantage of it if you can. :)

[JayStPeter]

Jay,

I'm sure our own Mr. Marino would be only too happy to help you out. I bet he can send you a new part and then help you install it. Frank recently posted about some darn good CS from Festool. I say take advantage of it if you can. :)

I'm certain he and Festool would be fantastic. But to be honest, since I took it off I hadn't even thought about it until I read Dennis' review. I really only brought it up to see if it was a problem in general or just me.
It's not high on my list of things to expend effort on right now. I'm sure it won't be too long before I have another reason to contact Mr. Marino anyway. Hopefully I'll remember then.
Didn't even think about it on my sandpaper order :D .

Jay