rockwell shaper rebuild

[larry lyon]

hi, have an old rockwell shaper, and i think it's time for a rebuild. i have the parts list and an exploded drawing, but no instructions on how to take it apart. there appears to be a triangular brace which bolts to the underside of the top, and another long bolt which also bolts to the underside of the top, all attached to the arbor, which is bolted to the motor. i have taken off the height adjusting handwheel, but i don't see how to take the guts out of the machine. it looks like if i unbolt everything from the underside of the top that the arbor and attached motor will fall down, pulling on the height adjusting shaft as it goes through the side of the cabinet.
has anyone rebuilt one of these?
any suggestions?
thanks in advance.
will post pictures shortly.
larry

[Mike Heidrick]

Flip it upside down onto its top. Then take off the cabinet.

[Chip Lindley]

Larry, what specifically needs to be rebuilt? Is something not working correctly? The machine need not be disassembled to replace spindle bearings; just remove the quill from the bracket that holds it. Or, are you wanting to sandblast each part and repaint for a showroom restored machine?r,

If you must disassemble the shaper completely, turn it upside down and remove the cabinet. Then remove the motor. Disassembly should be straight forward until you get into the guts of the raise/lower mechanism. My suggestion is: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

[larry lyon]

here they are.141148

141149

141150

141151

141152

141153

141154

141155

[Robert Boyd]

Larry,

Mike is right the only way to remove everything is by flipping it upside down.
If you head over to OWWM.org and search there are plenty of articles about it.

There is a member name Richard(from Texas) who is able to rebuild the spindle bearings for you for a fee.

Also replace the motor bearings since you are in there. Do be careful with the motor it weighs about 50-60lbs if it is the repulsion induction type motor.

I have a 1940 HD Delta shaper apart currently if you have any questions.

Robert

[larry lyon]

it's not broken, so there's nothing specific to fix, however the height adjustment is quite stiff, and it just the other day stopped working. i think that was due to a loose set screw, which i tightened today, but the height adjustment remains very stiff. although i've had the shaper for 12 years, i am only now beginning to use it on a regular basis, and want to make sure everything works well.
i made an adapter for it for porter-cable router collets, so i can use 1/4" and 1/2" router bits in it, in addition to 1/2" and 3/4" spindles with cutters, so it's quite versatile, also now with t-slot rails and a sliding fence on it.

[larry lyon]

okay, so if i turn it upside down, and then unbolt the three bolts of the triangular brace, then lift the cabinet off, then of course the motor and guts won't fall down, if i understand you right. is that correct?
how will it work with the height adjustment shaft? will the cabinet just lift away from where the shaft goes through the cabinet?

[David DeCristoforo]

The tenoning jig is priceless. But it "belongs" on a table saw, not a shaper! The newer tenoning jigs are beans compared to those old cast iron ones...

[larry lyon]

i have a delta rockwell unisaw for the tenoning jig. it's just sitting on the shaper for right now.

[larry lyon]

on further reflection, although i understand that turning the machine upside down and removing everything is the ideal, and after looking at the old woodworking machines website, and after checking the motor and spindle to see if there's any play (none), i am wondering if i were to leave those alone, is there some way to get the height adjustment to move more easily? is there some fix for that part only?

[Robert Boyd]

Larry,

I think the problem may be the locking knob on the hand wheel. It may have be the lock pins on number 56 in the diagram

http://owwm.com/pubs/1141/526.pdf

They me be sticking or too far expanded into the bushing number 54 in the diagram.

Robert

[larry lyon]

i saw some posts about that on OWWM, so i took the locking knob out of the unisaw and screwed it into the handwheel lock on the shaper. it tightened right up, and according to the OWWM posts, that should be an adequate check for those little brass thingies that expand into the height adjustment bushing to lock the height adjustment.
thanks for the suggestion.
i have been able to get back the height adjustment by tightening the setscrew in the thing through which the height adjusting screw passes, apparently the set screw tightens down onto a bronze bushing and it was loose, but i'm wondering if i need to wait to redo the machine to replace the bushing.

[Robert Boyd]

Larry

Unfortunately everything comes apart to do that little bronze bushing. The bad thing is it may have bad threads from that screw being tighten over the years. I ran into the same problem with mine.

A new one from Delta or whoever will cost about 65.00. There has been one the auction site time to time.

OR there is a problem with the whole height assembly but that still requires it to be taken apart.

Remember the machine is about 60 years old and it is still in excellent condition so a little rebuilding may be in order. Sealed bearings back then lasted for about 25 years or until the grease dried out. A little work know and you will never have to touch it again.

Robert

[Peter Quinn]

The tenoning jig is priceless. But it "belongs" on a table saw, not a shaper! The newer tenoning jigs are beans compared to those old cast iron ones...

Total side note, but I use that same tenoning jig at work, and I would like to throw it in the river each time I do. I usually love old iron, but short of shear mass, I don't see the appeal. The micro adjust leaves a bit to be desired, the miter bar does not adjust to take up slop (which the old ones seem to have plenty of), and doing something at an angle takes an act of congress. My new "el chepo" from woodcraft is a breeze to set and cuts accurate tenons. Not sure it will last as long as the old Delta, but then if it begins to work like ours, I'm not sure I want it to. It is a handsome piece of design.

[Gary Radice]

Larry,
Remember the machine is about 60 years old and it is still in excellent condition so a little rebuilding may be in order. Sealed bearings back then lasted for about 25 years or until the grease dried out. A little work know and you will never have to touch it again.

Robert
I agree with this philosophy. Since you are already thinking about fixes, why not take care of all the preventive maintenance? PM is not the same as "ain't broke, don't fix it." Replace the bearings and enjoy the peace of mind.

[Pete Bradley]

The raise/lower stiffness could just be goop in the screw or in the lock knob mechanism and you can start by cleaning both. There's a support bearing at the end of the screw though that is likely original and trashed. It's an 87502 (old school size) buried in the casting.

I'd replace spindle bearings also. At 10,000 RPM the old ones won't last long and they can damage other parts if they seize and spin. Richard's rebuild or at least one of hits kits is money well spent as the clearances of the rigid bearing installation require precision machining.

Motor bearings are 87504 and realtively easy to replace. The motor is a rarity and a nonstandard size though so get a shop to do it if you're not confident you can do it.

[Chip Lindley]

I agree with this philosophy. Since you are already thinking about fixes, why not take care of all the preventive maintenance? PM is not the same as "ain't broke, don't fix it." Replace the bearings and enjoy the peace of mind.

I totally agree Gary. When I posted my reply earlier today, Larry had not clarified any problem with the Delta shaper. But, now we hear the rest of the story. Some guys just enjoy tearing things apart, and have parts left over when they finish tinkering. IMO, better to use restraint if there are no apparent repair issues and if the machine is depended upon frequently.


it's not broken, so there's nothing specific to fix, however the height adjustment is quite stiff

Fixing a machine which does not adjust easily is a bonafide reason to tear it down for repair. Old machines suffer wear on threads and dried-out lube. Better to fix it now before the disease spreads. That does not fall within the "If it's not broke don't fix it!" category.

Larry, you will have to remove the crank wheel and it's shaft from the internal mechanism to lift off the cabinet freely. I have the exact same machine as yours, but have not torn it down. (only new spindle bearings) But, now you got me thinking....Maybe the next snow storm....