Steve Rowe
02-06-2010, 6:16 PM
I would like to start a series of threads which is intended to be information for anyone considering purchase of a slider. It is also for current slider owners to share information on their machines and the considerations they made in making that decision. From the recent thread on ripping on a slider, it is obvious that slider owners use their machines to what best fits their needs and they aren't always the same. We can all learn something new (I know I do) from pictures that others post on how they use their machines so lets all share.
My primary objective in getting a slider was that I wanted to be able to accurately rip down the center of sheet goods longways. With my cabinet saw, I had a generous shop made outfeed table but positioning roller stands at the infeed and outboard of the machine was precarious at best particularly if cutting something with an mdf core. I seldom got a good cut man-handling this thing alone. If I had help available, I usually ended up worse off than if I just did it alone.
So with this is my objective, I quickly learned that with most machines, to use the sliding table to rip down the center of an 8 ft sheet of ply, you needed a table longer than 8 feet. Some of this is based on just how far the sliding table will stroke in relation to the blade (a brand specific parameter) and the other factor is having room to clamp the workpiece to the table to get the most accurate cut (usually a few inches at each end of the table).
Of course, the longer the table length, the more room will be required. In addition to the full stroke required for cutting, the sliding table has an extended stroke forward to allow access for changing the blade. While this is very machine specific, for the Martin T60 with the 3.3m table, the full stroke is 25ft- 4 inches. Depending on your shop size and where you want to place the machine, this could restrict the slider length you choose. If you get a machine with an outrigger table that is not easy to remove and handle, the wingspan can be significant as well.
Picture 1 shows the table fully retracted (beginning of cut). Note that the table clears the scoring blade. Picture 2 shows the table position at the end of the cut. Note that the end of the table will provide a full length of the table cut. Not all sliders have this full stroke feature so it is something you need to check on whatever saws you are considering. There is nothing more frustrating than to spend big bucks on something that doesn't do the job you want it to do.
In the second picture you will note a shiny bar with slots milled in it along the axis of the table. These slots are for locking the table and with the Martin, the table can be locked anywhere along the length of the table (at increments of the slot spacing). The silver lever on the end of the table is the table locking handle. Locking the table is important primarily to load sheet goods on the table and outrigger. I also lock when I rip using the rip fence to the right of the blade. On most machines, the table could only be locked in two positions. It isn't as convenient or flexible but certainly is workable.
Picture 3 shows the felt pad that contains lubricant for the slider ways. The pad is large enough to contain enough lubricant for extended operation (many months) without refilling. In addition to applying lubricant, it cleans any sawdust from the hardened ways shown in picture 4. I don't particularily like oil in the shop but excess is well captured and I only occassionally wipe down the area below the ways.
Pictures 5 and 6 show a modified Kreg holdown clamp and a shaper hold down clamp. The Kreg vise grip clamp slips into an aluminum t-nut slipped into the table slot. To install, the screw on the bottom of the clamp slips into the hole and is then slid to one end of the t-nut. It slides freely up and down the table and only locks into position when the clamp is actuated. (Note: credit for this design goes to my late friend Jim who created a number of aids you will see in this and other threads.) To use the shaper hold down clamp, I had a machine shop make me a couple of tee nuts to fit the slider. I only use these when I need greater reach than what the Kreg clamps provide. The Kreg clamps are much faster to install and operate.
Pictures 7 and 8 show how a support table is attached to the sliding table. There are a series of stacked belleville washers which act to hold the support in position. Level of the support table is addressed by some nylon tipped setscrews to prevent damage to the aluminum table.
More to follow.
Steve
My primary objective in getting a slider was that I wanted to be able to accurately rip down the center of sheet goods longways. With my cabinet saw, I had a generous shop made outfeed table but positioning roller stands at the infeed and outboard of the machine was precarious at best particularly if cutting something with an mdf core. I seldom got a good cut man-handling this thing alone. If I had help available, I usually ended up worse off than if I just did it alone.
So with this is my objective, I quickly learned that with most machines, to use the sliding table to rip down the center of an 8 ft sheet of ply, you needed a table longer than 8 feet. Some of this is based on just how far the sliding table will stroke in relation to the blade (a brand specific parameter) and the other factor is having room to clamp the workpiece to the table to get the most accurate cut (usually a few inches at each end of the table).
Of course, the longer the table length, the more room will be required. In addition to the full stroke required for cutting, the sliding table has an extended stroke forward to allow access for changing the blade. While this is very machine specific, for the Martin T60 with the 3.3m table, the full stroke is 25ft- 4 inches. Depending on your shop size and where you want to place the machine, this could restrict the slider length you choose. If you get a machine with an outrigger table that is not easy to remove and handle, the wingspan can be significant as well.
Picture 1 shows the table fully retracted (beginning of cut). Note that the table clears the scoring blade. Picture 2 shows the table position at the end of the cut. Note that the end of the table will provide a full length of the table cut. Not all sliders have this full stroke feature so it is something you need to check on whatever saws you are considering. There is nothing more frustrating than to spend big bucks on something that doesn't do the job you want it to do.
In the second picture you will note a shiny bar with slots milled in it along the axis of the table. These slots are for locking the table and with the Martin, the table can be locked anywhere along the length of the table (at increments of the slot spacing). The silver lever on the end of the table is the table locking handle. Locking the table is important primarily to load sheet goods on the table and outrigger. I also lock when I rip using the rip fence to the right of the blade. On most machines, the table could only be locked in two positions. It isn't as convenient or flexible but certainly is workable.
Picture 3 shows the felt pad that contains lubricant for the slider ways. The pad is large enough to contain enough lubricant for extended operation (many months) without refilling. In addition to applying lubricant, it cleans any sawdust from the hardened ways shown in picture 4. I don't particularily like oil in the shop but excess is well captured and I only occassionally wipe down the area below the ways.
Pictures 5 and 6 show a modified Kreg holdown clamp and a shaper hold down clamp. The Kreg vise grip clamp slips into an aluminum t-nut slipped into the table slot. To install, the screw on the bottom of the clamp slips into the hole and is then slid to one end of the t-nut. It slides freely up and down the table and only locks into position when the clamp is actuated. (Note: credit for this design goes to my late friend Jim who created a number of aids you will see in this and other threads.) To use the shaper hold down clamp, I had a machine shop make me a couple of tee nuts to fit the slider. I only use these when I need greater reach than what the Kreg clamps provide. The Kreg clamps are much faster to install and operate.
Pictures 7 and 8 show how a support table is attached to the sliding table. There are a series of stacked belleville washers which act to hold the support in position. Level of the support table is addressed by some nylon tipped setscrews to prevent damage to the aluminum table.
More to follow.
Steve