Scrapers

[David Ripley]

I`m thinking of buying a scraper, but know very little about them.
My local Woodcraft has a Sandvik, Swedish Cabinet Scrapers, a
6"@ $6.50 and 5"@$6.99. Not sure why the 5" cost more. Any info. on these or others will be appreciated. Thanks. David
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[Bill Esposito]

David,

The real difference between the two scrapers is the thickness and not the length. The cheaper of the two probably sells more and hence Woodcraft can buy a higher quantity and sell it a little cheaper.

The thicker the scraper the more heavy duty it is meaning you will be able to take off more material at a time on harder stock with the thicker scraper.

If your set on WoodCraft than I'd buy both along with a burnisher. I noticed that Woodcraft only sells HSS burnishers and I was told that carbide burnishers are better.

You can find all kinds of scrapers at all the mail order places including WoodWorkers Warehouse which has a nice set which includes curved scrapers. I think I bought mine at WoodWorkers Warehouse and Lee Valley (burnisher)

You will also need a mill file which is used to square the edge and remove the old burr before you put a new burr on it. I think I bought a 6" or 8" one just for this purpose at my local hardware store for like 5 bucks.

[Pete Harbin]

David,

I just bought the 5" scraper you mentioned at our local Woodcraft.
I tested it on some scrap cherry...nice effect, although I still have a lot to learn.


Bill,

Rookie question...what's a burr? Should I be doing something to the scraper before using it?

Pete

[Bill Esposito]

Originally posted by Pete Harbin
David,
Bill,
Rookie question...what's a burr? Should I be doing something to the scraper before using it?
Pete

Yes. Read this. Scraper Preparation (http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/scraping/scraper.htm)

Hand scraping takes lots of practice if you are going to use it as your final surface preparation. You should be looking for shavings like these which I took when I was first leaning. I can make them almost pencil-like now.
http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/scraper_shavings.jpg

[Carl Eyman]

Anybody that can make scrapings like that knows what he is talking about. However, let me add some advice from someone that can't but has learned enough at least to make a scraper useful. Burnishers: One of the journeymen at Colonial Williamsburg took a lot of his afternoon to demonstrate hands on the use and preparation of scrapers. He used the shank of a chisel to burnish his.

As Bill will explain burnishing is turning the edge of the scraper to give it its cutting edge. After trying a chisel and using a commercial burnisher. I finally bought a Lee Valley device that is fool proof. You can dial in the angle you want and then just pull the blade thru it.

However, I had to buy one more crutch before I could do all the scraper was capable of. Lee Valley and others have a holder that holds the scraper in the proper arc and protects your hands from heat. Even with leather gloves after 1/2 hour of scraping My fingers were burning from the heat and the muscles were suffering from the strain of holding that scraper in an arc.

As you begin to practice using the scraper keep in mind these devices exist and are useful.

[Bill Esposito]

I made my own handle. Easy to do. piece of wood. Put a screw w/washer on either side of the wood so that the scraper just fits between the screws and under the washer. Then add a third screw in the middle. As you tighten the middle screw you will bow the scraper. Actually works pretty well.

I still find that I prefer not to use the handle. You can get four cutting burrs on the scraper and I like to keep flipping the scraper around to get the sharpest one....handle gets in the way.

Remember that on each long edge you can get 2 burrs so that 4 total which can be used before re-burnishing.

[Tom Sweeney]

I used it on some cherry & it did "smooth" the surface. However I was not able to get shavings like I see David Marks get on TV or Bill right here. I was thinking about buying the handle as I had trouble keeping the bow in the blade on the small peices I was using it on. Also I wonder why David Marks is always pushing his but the instructions with the woodcraft one say to pull it towards you??? :confused:

I'll have to read through the link that Bill posted.

I can see the benefits of using a scraper but as with everything else - I'll need to practice some more.

[Bill Esposito]

Originally posted by Tom Sweeney
Also I wonder why David Marks is always pushing his but the instructions with the woodcraft one say to pull it towards you??? :confused:
I push my scraper 95% of the time. The only time I pull it is when the grain changes and I'm too lazy to turn the board around. I find I have more control pushing. I guess that's at least one thing that Mr Marks and I have in common :)

IMO a scraper takes allot of practice to be able to use it as your final surface prep...especially if one is going to use a poly finish.

[Pete Harbin]

I started reading the link. That's a lot of good info.

You're decribing an arc in the blade, so I assume you're flexing the scraper between your hands rather than scraping with a straight edge. Would I be better off with a longer blade...the 6" rather than the 5", so that it's easier to flex?

I saw the handle that's been described, and the kit for burnishing at Woodcraft, but figured I'd start small.

I've been using power tools for woodworking for about 3 years now, but I just can't seem to duplicate the finish I've seen on pieces that were hand planed or scraped, so I'm drifting into the world of hand tools. I've acheived pretty fair results with sanding, sealing and buffing, but I'm sold on the scraper even after my initial trials.

Thanks

Pete

[Chris Knight]

I have found Sandvik to be the best of several the "bought" brands I have tried.

If you can find the saw doctor at a timber mill, ask him to cut a few bits from their scrap bandsaw blades, they make great scrapers.

[Lee Schierer]

I've never used either of the scrapers you referenced.

I used my scraper just this weekend to remove a slight high spot on the side of a small cabinet so I could get the molding to fit tight. I used my trusty Stanley #80. You can pick one up at most antique sales quite reasonably. It holds the blade at the right angle, has nice handles to , allows you to adjust the curavature of the blade. Once you learn how to use it it will be an invaluable tool in your shop. You can push or pull a #80.

[Dave Arbuckle]

Warning, warning, warning. Unmitigated brag post, pure and simple.

I was once asked on a forum what the output from a scraper should look like. So I took these pictures:

http://users2.ev1.net/~arbuckle/temp/s4300004.jpg

http://users2.ev1.net/~arbuckle/temp/s4300005.jpg

Apologies for the lack of humility... ;) Now on to information.

In helping people figure out this crazy tool, I have found that 100% of new scraper users apply too much pressure on the burnisher. Try holding the burnisher at about 80 degrees to the face, and gently (maybe 3 pounds pressure tops) stroking the edge four or five times. Try scraping, and burnish a bit more if nothing still happens. Press down firmly on the wood when you use the scraper.

Sandvik is a great brand. They've changed their name, now called "Bahno" or something similar. The logo remains the same.

Dave

[Bill Esposito]

I was once asked on a forum what the output from a scraper should look like. So I took these pictures:Ahh, a visit from the professor!

I asked all these same questions to Dave a year ago. WoodNet should still have loads of threads on this very subject.

[Tom Sweeney]

Or I'd really have to not like you very much - after looking at the difference between what happens when I use my scraper & those pics :p ;) :cool:

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I think I'm in the minority, but I pull my scraper. Just seems like I have more control and can put more behind it when required. I have several Sheffield hand scrapers--just cheap ones. They're pretty thin, but that makes it easier to bend. I don't do a lot of prep work, just take a file to the edge and get it close to 90 degrees (I do it freehand). Then use a burnisher on the edge to make a hook. It takes a few minutes and I can take a nice shaving on hardwoods. Its harder to take shavings on softwoods though. I also have a #12 and 112 stanley. Can't figure either out yet.

[David Ripley]

Just want to say thanks to all who responded, and to Bill Esposito
for the info. on Scraper Preparation. I would say this Creek is as wet as the Pond was.

[David Rose]

some time, getting a good edge once, then barely cutting next time. Using your technique...


Originally posted by Dennis McDonaugh
I don't do a lot of prep work, just take a file to the edge and get it close to 90 degrees (I do it freehand). Then use a burnisher on the edge to make a hook. It takes a few minutes and I can take a nice shaving on hardwoods. Its harder to take shavings on softwoods though. I also have a #12 and 112 stanley. Can't figure either out yet.

which skips stoning the edge, things changed! All at once every time was a good edge. I can't remember who wrote an article that said the stoning was the downfall for most new users. He also said stoning is needed to cut down finishes but not smooth wood.

Hey! Ship me one of those Stanley's and I'll tune 'er up for ya! You can pick it up next time you come to Arkansas. You aren't planning a trip here for a couple of years are you? Actually, I haven't done one yet, but yours could be first. ;-) I have done some other planes and would love to try one of those some day.

Just got a Veritas cabinet scraper, and WOW! What a difference. It is really aggressive for taking down boards that are misaligned in glue up. I mean... for friends of course. I don't do the misalign thing... much...

David