Block Plane Advice

[truitt sosebee]

I'm relatively inexperienced with planes, but I'm looking to purchase a low-angle block plane, primarily for trimming end grain. I've been looking at everything from the Lie Nielsen and veritas to vintage Stanleys on e-bay. I would really like to buy a quality plane, but probably don't want to spend over $150, give or take. What advice would you offer for choosing a block plane? Is the adjustable mouth a needed option? What is the difference between the LN iron and bronze models (other than $20)? Any and all advice is appreciated!

[Rick Erickson]

The primary difference is weight (bronze is heavier). A secondary difference is the bronze won't rust. Personally I would take the cost hit and buy the LN. You will have it for life.

[Andy Hsieh]

Depends on your usage - I have a LV small apron plane - I keep it in my tool bag for home improvement as well as using on small projects - the ergonomics of this plane are fantastic and I believe it is still below 100 bucks.

[Jeff Willard]

I don't think you'll go wrong with either the LN or the LV planes. People that have 'em-either one-seem very pleased with them. I just upgraded my old Record 60-1/2 to a Lee Valley. I wanted the thicker iron for end grain, but the major reason I opted for the LV, is the Norris style adjuster. To many this is irrelevant, but I find it very convenient. I'm very happy with it so far. The adjustable mouth, for me, is a must. Very helpful in dealing with squirrly grain. If you opt for the adjustable mouth, the only options you have are used, or LV, if you want to stay under $150.

[Casey Gooding]

I have had the Lie-Nielsen 102 block plane for several years and really like it. In fact, it may be my favorite plane. It's a great place to start and get a feel for high quality planes at a nice price.

[Jim Koepke]

Truitt,

Welcome to the creek.

In my opinion, picking a block plane is more personal than picking a bench plane. The fit in the hand is important. If a tool does not feel right when being used, it is likely not going to get used as much as it was meant to be used.

My accumulation of low angled block planes currently consists of 2 Stanley #60 size planes, a Stanley #65 knuckle joint cap and a #65-1/2 lever cap. For free hand end grain trimming the smaller #60 sized planes are preferred. For use with a shooting board, the #65-1/2 seems to be the most comfortable. The #65 is mostly used on "fat" end grain of 2 inches or so.

You have not entered your location into your profile. If you live anywhere near me, I would be happy to let you give my planes a test drive.

There are also different woodworking events where you can actually get a hands on feel for some of the newer planes to see how they fit your hand and work for you. There will be an LN tool event in Portland in a couple of weeks, then one in Seattle. They are taking place in California this weekend and next.

There are also other sponsors putting on their own shows.

jim

[Zach England]

The veritas apron plane is nice. I usually prefer it over my full-size veritas block plane and my LN 60 1/2. The drawback is that it does not have an adjustable mouth.

[Bob Smalser]

You can do as well as a Lie Nielsen for $35-75 bucks total.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/17020258/263582382.jpg

Block Plane Selection and Rehabilitation
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=60970

I tried two L/N's as part of this article, and was delighted to sell them to recoup my money. I didn't find any significant performance advantages over a well-fettled vintage Stanley, and found their additional weight a detriment in a pocket plane.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/17020258/274460201.jpg

And while a Hock iron is a nice addition to a Stanley, all it really does over a Sweetheart-vintage iron is save a whole bunch of time flattening the back. It's better, but not a quantum leap better.

[Sam Takeuchi]

I also think it's not necessary to go for LN as long as you can tune a vintage block plane. There isn't a lot to tune with block planes and you can get one for fraction of the price of LN. If you have money to blow, certainly LN planes are good choice, but if not, get a vintage one, save the money for other things.

As far as adjustable mouth go, it depends on what you want to do with it. If you are going to be doing trimming work, it wouldn't be the most crucial item, but if you want to do other things from smoothing to all the way up to shooting, adjustable mouth is a handy feature. If you'll only have one plane, I recommend get one with adjustable mouth. Just for your info, wide mouth isn't a problem with end grain trimming for the most part. In that part, the most important thing is a razor sharp blade to achieve beautifully smooth surface.

[Steve Thomas]

I've the Veritas low angle. Unless you want to spend some time in re-hab I'd go the Veritas low angle again for sure. (I have used the LN and many unfettled block plane.)

[truitt sosebee]

Jim-thanks for the generous offer to let me try your planes, but I am in Atlanta and Washington state is just about as far you could be from me and still be in the USA. Very, very nice of you to offer though.

Thanks to everyone for such well thought out and objective advice. All things considered, I think I'll run down to Highland Woodworking this weekend to see the LN's in person (I'm assuming that they keep them in stock; guess I should call first to make sure).

Also (real hand-tool newbie question here), what are the advantages/disadvantages of low angle vs. regular angle? After reading a lot of what appears to be conflicting information on the internet last night, I'm not even sure if I need a low angle or regular angle version???

[Sam Takeuchi]

Difference is only bedding angle of the blade. Low angle planes typically have bedding angle of 10 to 12 degrees (some has 15) and standard angle block planes typically has 20 to 22 degree bedding angle. Add 25 degrees bevel angle to the bedding angle makes 37 degrees for the low angle plane and 45 degrees for the standard block plane.

Low cutting angle (bedding angle + bevel angle = cutting angle for the bevel up planes including block planes) is works well on end grain and softwood. But you are not limited to low cutting angle. You can adjust cutting angle by adding and adjusting micro-bevel, you will be able to work on end grain with low angle and all the way to tough grain using high angle micro bevel.

Standard angle block plane can work on end grain, but low angle plane works better as it slices the fiber easier. What standard angle block plane can do, low angle plane can. It's just that low angle plane has wider choice when it comes to choosing cutting angle. All in all, personally I think low angle block plane is more diverse and useful than a standard angle block plane. I never ever felt the need for standard angle block plane since low angle plane can do all that and more.

[Prashun Patel]

My vote is for the Veritas Apron. It's relatively cheap new @ $81 from Lee Valley. Personally, I prefer the small size to the adjustable mouth on a block plane.

The big benefit to buying yr 1st plane new from either Veritas or LN is that it'll come shipped ready to use; the blade will be fairly well honed. This will be a good standard for you as you start (and you WILL) to accumulate more planes.

[Bob Smalser]

Also (real hand-tool newbie question here), what are the advantages/disadvantages of low angle vs. regular angle? After reading a lot of what appears to be conflicting information on the internet last night, I'm not even sure if I need a low angle or regular angle version???

As has been described, the only advantage of a low-angle plane is it takes a bit less force to pare end grain.

But after you have a good low-angle plane like a #65 or #60 1/2, buy a standard-angle #18, #19 or #9 1/2 anyway. Because of today's "conventional wisdom", nice ones are dirt cheap, and using two planes for what each does best means you'll sharpen half as often in the middle of a job. And the #19's can be especially useful, as they are longer and fill the gap nicely between a #60 1/2 and #3.

Because other than end grain, there is no difference at all between how well each plane works, just like there's no difference between a LN and a sharp Stanley.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/17020258/263582392.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/17020258/263582386.jpg

[Peter Bell]

If you can live with the corporate political aspect then the Woodcraft Block plane is a very good starter.

It has good reviews and is a nice user.

Peter

[John Powers]

You asked about buying a plane. If you buy that little LN block plane in ductile you will love it. Downside is you will pay over $100.00. If you do buy it I guarantee you will not open the box and wonder what the big deal is about. Personally I'm tired of rehabing old stuff but then I'm 62 and have a limited amount of time left to me. I know everything you've heard about how old planes can work just as good is absolutely true. that said its a lot of money and I would not have bought it had I not read a post here about a Woodcraft 20% off and free shipping that got it to the door for $76.00. I have a LA Record that weighs a ton but cuts great.

[Sandy Stanford]

You asked about buying a plane. If you buy that little LN block plane in ductile you will love it. Downside is you will pay over $100.00. If you do buy it I guarantee you will not open the box and wonder what the big deal is about. Personally I'm tired of rehabing old stuff but then I'm 62 and have a limited amount of time left to me. I know everything you've heard about how old planes can work just as good is absolutely true. that said its a lot of money and I would not have bought it had I not read a post here about a Woodcraft 20% off and free shipping that got it to the door for $76.00. I have a LA Record that weighs a ton but cuts great.

I have to agree with Bob Smalser - the L-Ns are too heavy and I didn't notice huge leaps in performance over a reasonably clean, sharp vintage Stanley.

[dan sherman]

But after you have a good low-angle plane like a #65 or #60 1/2, buy a standard-angle #18, #19 or #9 1/2 anyway. Because of today's "conventional wisdom", nice ones are dirt cheap, and using two planes for what each does best means you'll sharpen half as often in the middle of a job. And the #19's can be especially useful, as they are longer and fill the gap nicely between a #60 1/2 and #3.


I would recommend a #15 as well, while it's larger than a #18, it works equally well as a small smother.
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/7023/15finished.jpg (http://img686.imageshack.us/i/15finished.jpg/)

[Kevin Womer]

I've the Veritas low angle. Unless you want to spend some time in re-hab I'd go the Veritas low angle again for sure. (I have used the LN and many unfettled block plane.)
I agree with Steve. I have the LV low angle and love the thing right out of the box. I was so pleased I later picked upthe LA Jack which is just as solid.

[David Keller NC]

There's one major difference in use between a vintage Stanley, Sargent or Union and a L-N or Lee Valley. Specifically, if you drop a Stanely and have a concrete floor, there's a better than even probability that it will shatter. A L-N or a Veritas won't. Don't ask me how I know this!

[Jim Koepke]

Also (real hand-tool newbie question here), what are the advantages/disadvantages of low angle vs. regular angle? After reading a lot of what appears to be conflicting information on the internet last night, I'm not even sure if I need a low angle or regular angle version???

The standard angle block plane is a good stand in for a smaller bench planes.

You can get something like a #9-1/2 or #220 in the $30 range depending on personal preference and not buy a #1 and #2 bench plane in the $500 to $1700 range for both of them depending on whether you buy LN or Stanley.

I like an adjustable mouth, others feel it is not needed. It is one of those things folks have to decide for themselves.

Living in Atlanta, I would expect there will be LN events and the possibility of other woodworkers in the area to find an opportunity to try different planes before buying. There are also local sources like yard sales and Craigslist.

Look at the things Bob Smalser has written on rehabbing block planes. Also look at what I have written in what to look for when buying planes and then there is plenty that others have provided. A good place to start is the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs. What is amazing, is there always seems to be a new curve ball being pitched, so it is impossible to do much more than to make sure the eyes are open wide when looking for the deals.

Happy hunting,

jim

[John A. Callaway]

Living in Atlanta.... go by highland woodworking and try out the different models they have in the store. These things pretty much require a "test drive" .... and you will know exactly what you are buying.