Planing thin parts

[Prashun Patel]

I need to plane a few pieces of 3/16" stock down to about 1/8". Each piece is 50" long and 1 1/2" wide. Each side is jointed on one face.

The wood is walnut, and the grain is a little swirly in some areas.

I'd like to run this thru my benchtop planer, but am scared of chipping or worse.

Any thoughts? I don't have access to a drum sander.

[Don Inghram]

I have a DW735 and have never had a problem planing down to 1/8". I've done it numerous times with many types of figured and non-figured wood. HTH.

[Neil Brooks]

Isn't it SOP -- if there's any concern -- to use double-stick tape to stick it on a thicker board, and then run 'er through?

[Tom Veatch]

...The wood is walnut, and the grain is a little swirly in some areas. ...

Good luck and stand to one side while you do it.

Whenever I've tried planing walnut that thin with any kind of grain reversals, it made loud noises and came right back out the feed side in little pieces; even with very light cuts.

But, that was with straight knife heads. I haven't tried it since I swapped out with Shelix heads. That might make a difference.

Wish I could say "do this and do that and I'll work great", but I can't.

The double stick tape idea sounds like it might work. I believe the biggest problem is stuff that thin has enough flexibility that the leading end can be picked up by the knives and pulled up off the table. Something to hold down that leading edge until it hits the output side holddown/feed roller just might make it do-able. Test it on some scrap first and stand clear.

[kenneth kayser]

Good luck and stand to one side while you do it.

Whenever I've tried planing walnut that thin with any kind of grain reversals, it made loud noises and came right back out the feed side in little pieces; even with very light cuts.


The double stick tape idea sounds like it might work. I believe the biggest problem is stuff that thin has enough flexibility that the leading end can be picked up by the knives and pulled up off the table. Something to hold down that leading edge until it hits the output side holddown/feed roller just might make it do-able. Test it on some scrap first and stand clear.

Definitely tape it on a thicker board. the leading edge could be planed down a bit with a hand plane to give it a lead.

[Mike Adler]

Sanding drum, works wonders.

[Joe Scharle]

When I have done this, knowing how walnut can come apart; I clean the rollers with mineral spirits, wax the bed and make sure I have sharp knives. And I do expect an occasional throw back, so I resaw spares.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, All. I thought about taping it to a carrier.

I made about 30 of these, and only need 20.

Mike: Can you elaborate on the sanding drum? I have an OSS. How about a do-jiggy like seen in the 3rd minute of this video?

(edit: sorry, here's the vid link)
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=27731

[glenn bradley]

What video?

[Matt Day]

I've done this numerous times - it works fine. Just take a very light cut.

I do feed the wood in a little differently, and make sure the front of the board is tight to the bed of the planer, and I keep it that way by putting pressure down on the front and the next 6" or so of the board so I know it's under the rollers. The problems usually start when the first planer roller pushes it down, but the wood has a tendency to bend up into the blades if pressure isn't applied before the front of the wood reaches the second roller. Once the first part of the wood gets passed the second roller, you're fine.

I have a DW734 for reference.

[Aaron Wingert]

I'm wondering how you get the thin board off the thick board if it is double stick taped down securely...With my luck I'd successfully plane it down to 1/8" only to bust it while prying it off the thicker board!

[Joe Kieve]

Squirt some acetone or lacquer thinner under it and use a thin blade putty knife. Should pop right up. Then use acetone or lacquer thinner to clean adhesive off board.

joe

[Richard Dragin]

Shawn,
These must be for your rocker lams. I'd consider running them through the saw again with a ZCI, feather board and really good push stick. I've done it many times.

[Prashun Patel]

Richard-
Yep. You know it. After my 'resaw' blade snapped on my bandsaw, I switched to the t-saw. The cuts are definitely smoother than on the bandsaw, but I still have some thickness issues... My bump jig ain't the best.

[john bateman]

If the first one you plane breaks into pieces, then I think I would get a piece of mdf about 12" wide x 54" long. Lay 6 or 7 of the strips on it, side by side, and place a dab of hot melt glue at the leading edge of each piece, so it can't lift up. Then feed the whole thing thru, taking very light cuts each pass.

This might get tedious if you're doing 30 of them.

[Joe Scharle]

Richard-
Yep. You know it. After my 'resaw' blade snapped on my bandsaw, I switched to the t-saw. The cuts are definitely smoother than on the bandsaw, but I still have some thickness issues... My bump jig ain't the best.

Here's what I use when I need consistent thicknesses. I've even sliced basket weaving stock and of course router made molding. Great for slicing laminating parts.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1419/Spline_Jig_8_.JPG

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks to all. I really appreciate it.

In the end, I used a planer sled. I ganged the pieces and doubletaped them at the head and tail. It worked great half way thru, until the tape slipped. Then it sniped half of them, and completely obliterated 1" off the tails of all of them. Fortunately, my stock was 2" long.

Since these are laminations, most of the pieces are still usable with a little fill in on the divots.

Lessons learned for next time.

1) With a good blade and bump jig, you can make very accurate cuts @ the table saw without having to joint in between or to plane. I used the right edge of my miter gauge as the bump jig to set the rip fence. When the stock got narrow, I used a GRRRIPPER. Worked well, but not worth the scare. Next time, I'll get extra wide stock and use a featherboard and wider push block.

2) If I have to plane, I'll use hotmelt glue or tape that bonds very well to both sfcs. The rollers provide a lot of forward force, which wrenched my tape loose and caused the gouging.

[Stephen Edwards]

Here's what I use when I need consistent thicknesses. I've even sliced basket weaving stock and of course router made molding. Great for slicing laminating parts.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1419/Spline_Jig_8_.JPG

Is this what's known as a "bump jig". I'm not familiar with the term. Thanks.

[Richard Dragin]

A "bump jig" is set on the left side of the blade and you bump the fence and stock against the jig for your preset width of cut. You can easily make your own but for example http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18056

[Cody Colston]

If you decide to make another rocker or just need to thin down some strips for laminations again, you can also use an Oscillating Spindle Sander if you have one.

Just make and clamp a single-point fence to the sander table 1/8" from the spindle with the sawn side against the spindle...similar to using a single-point fence to re-saw. Push the slat through the gap against the spindle rotation and continue to pull it through slowly. Works great. Just don't turn loose of the slat while it's between the spindle and the fence. ;)

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks Cody! Wish I read that before I became a planing fool.

[Bill White]

Use a "slave" board and double sided tape as otthers have said.
Bill

[kenneth kayser]

I've done this numerous times - it works fine. Just take a very light cut.

I do feed the wood in a little differently, and make sure the front of the board is tight to the bed of the planer, and I keep it that way by putting pressure down on the front and the next 6" or so of the board so I know it's under the rollers. The problems usually start when the first planer roller pushes it down, but the wood has a tendency to bend up into the blades if pressure isn't applied before the front of the wood reaches the second roller. Once the first part of the wood gets passed the second roller, you're fine.

I have a DW734 for reference.

Great tip! How thin can you go?