Applying tiny quarter round?

[Andrew Gibson]

I am getting ready to trim out my latest piece with some 1/4" quarter round. My question is, what would you all suggest to use to fasten it in place? being so small I am afraid tacking it in place my cause it to split, and I would like to avoid nail holes as well.

My current thought is super glue, as it will dry quickly and should hold up over time especially after finishing.

Any help would be appricated.

p.s. the wood is African Sapele

[Richard Dragin]

I've used 23 Gauge Headless Air Pin Nails but not specifically on 1/4" round. I think it might be a really good way to go on a larger project.

[Don Inghram]

Titebond makes a glue especially for molding/trim. High initial tack and works pretty well from my experience. I think this would be a good application.

[Neil Brooks]

Can you use an appropriate bead bit for your router, and just cut the 1/4" into the piece??

Wouldn't go anywhere ;-)

[Jack Wilson]

I've used 23 Gauge Headless Air Pin Nails but not specifically on 1/4" round. I think it might be a really good way to go on a larger project.

+1 on the 23 gauge headless nailer, I have installed dozens of kitchens, and I use the 23 gauge almost exclusively for crown and other trims. It leaves almost no noticeable entrance, and I can load up as many nails as I need. Prior to that I was using an 18 gauge, but when installing fine trim it would split so I HAD to buy the 23 gauge, one of the best forced purchases I ever made. Also the 18 gauge left plenty of holes to fill, so the smaller gun was just a better choice all the way around.

I don't see any problem with it being used on 1/4" quarter round.

[Leo Graywacz]

+2 on the 23 gauge.

[Andrew Gibson]

Thanks for the quick replies all. I may have to see if I can find some of the titebond. I have the 1/4 round all milled up, I designed the peace so that I can use the round to caver a slight gap between the frame and box of a cabinet I am working on, so milling it into the peace wont work. A brad nailer would be my first choice and the tiny brads, but I have neither a nailer or compressor to run it, in fact my current situation has me working out of a 10' x 10' garden shed... Thank god I live in Florida and the weather is nice this time of year. I can see now trying to nail up the round with tiny nails and a tiny hammer...

[keith micinski]

+3 on the 23 gauge pin nails but another trick I have used is to use regular glue and leave a few spots clear on the piece. Take a hot melt glue gun, put a few spots in these areas and then stick your piece up. The hot melts dries in a few seconds and holds the piece in place while the regular glue sets up.

[Lonnie Cook]

Andrew:

I used super glue to apply 1/4" molding to make fake window muntin inserts. Worked fine. The pieces were about 6" long. Might be more difficult to position long pieces properly before the glue sets up.

- Lonnie

[Steve knight]

blue or green tape and yellow glue would work fine.

[Ron Bontz]

A 23 gauge pin nailer is exactly how I do my 1/4" quarter round these days. I've been using that for a few years now. In fact I just finished a set of cabinet doors, glass and removable panels. Works like a champ. :)

[Ken Shoemaker]

+4 23ga. pin nailer

[Jay Allen]

+5 in the micro pinner, you can actually nail a toothpick w/o splitting it.

[Neil Brooks]

FWIW,

I just watched Norm do it ... on the "hot wall" of his kitchen project.

23ga pin nailer. Worked like a charm :)

[Glen Butler]

I will validate your option to use cyanoacrylate. I differentiate the two because all the "super glue" I have used doesn't compare to the quality stuff labeled "cyanoacrylate." I use it all the time. In fact I just used it to apply trim around some columns. Use accelerator with it. Your molding is small enough to bend. So if your pieces are very long spot glue the molding, spot accelerator the substrate, and move along the piece one spot at a time lining it up and sticking it on.

[Steve Rowe]

+6 on the 23 gauge pin nailer.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Has anyone mentioned using a 23 ga. pinner?
;)

(marvelous tool! As witnessed by the number of recommendations.)
As far as air requirements go, the 23 ga. just sips at air. I use a 1/4 hp - 1 gal tank oiless with mine all the time.
Similar small models can be had from HF and/or Sears for $50 to $90.

[Stephen Edwards]

You could also do it the old fashion way: Chuck up either a drill bit that's the same size as the shaft of a 5/8 or 3/4 brad (or use one of the brads instead of drill bit) and attach with a hammer and small nail set. Just be sure that the hole is wee bit smaller than the head of the brad. This technique would be especially useful if you don't want to buy a compressor and a brad gun. It also could be helpful if there's any cross grain application.

The brad holes would be so small that they'd hardly be noticeable filled with a matching putty.

When I do this, I prefinish the moldings.

Good luck with your project.

[Jim Heffner]

Why not use some fast set CA glue ( super glue)? Won't have to worry about nails or pins splitting the wood with this.

[Jason White]

Headless pin nailer?



I am getting ready to trim out my latest piece with some 1/4" quarter round. My question is, what would you all suggest to use to fasten it in place? being so small I am afraid tacking it in place my cause it to split, and I would like to avoid nail holes as well.

My current thought is super glue, as it will dry quickly and should hold up over time especially after finishing.

Any help would be appricated.

p.s. the wood is African Sapele

[Leo Graywacz]

Why not use some fast set CA glue ( super glue)? Won't have to worry about nails or pins splitting the wood with this.

I've been using a 23ga pinner for about 4 years now. Only once has it split the wood. And it took a week for it to happen. It was a pc of curly maple .25" x .25" quarter round and I put the nail right at one of the junctures of a curl. Not sure if the wood split because of the nail of because of shrinkage and the nail held everything in place.

They are deceptively strong for what they are. Especially if you cross the nails. Using them in hard maple it is almost impossible to get the nails out and the strength of the joint is really the strength of the nail.