Fire extinguisher recommendations?

[Dave Johnson29]

Hi All,

Just reading about the corrosion and mess of dry powder extinguishers. Anyone using CO2, or Halotron or similar "clean" extinguishers?

I have a bunch of dry chemical ones but the thought of vacuuming out the laser after a small fire does not fill me with enthusiasm.

Suggestions on what and where to buy would be appreciated. I'd like actual experience with them rather than anecdotal. If there is sufficient charge still left, can they be stopped and used again without refilling first?

I had a fire in the BBQ and used the dry chemical and the gas rush that preceded the powder blew out the flames so I was able to shut it down before more than about a half-cup of powder came out. That was enough of a mess to clean up as it was.

[Doug Griffith]

I'd like actual experience with them rather than anecdotal.

I'm glad I can't help you... but I've got a big C02 extinguisher nearby so maybe someday.

[Ron Chapellaz]

Hi Dave,
I recently bought an extinguisher from Grainger. It is an Ansul Cleanguard. It is a clean agent FE-36 fire extinguisher and is safe for electronics. I paid over $100 for it.
Being an ex firefighter I have shot off a few of the regular ABC extinguishers and they do leave a mess and can be corrosive esp. for electronics, and hard on the lungs too. In my opinion it is worth having one similar to this one. Using a regular ABC may save your machine in the event of a fire, but the clean up afterwards would be difficult.

[Randy Digby]

Reference the use of partially discharged extinguishers, any extinguisher with a broken seal or that has been partially discharged should be treated as an empty extinguisher and be recharged/inspected and a new seal applied.

From a mechanical standpoint, any time a dry chemical extinguisher is operated, the chemical will typically prevent the operating valve from fully seating and the device will lose pressure and become inoperable over time. This can be over a long period of time such as months or within minutes. The valve and seat are cleaned as a part of the refilling process.

CO2 extinguishers can be weighed to determine the amount of agent left in the cylinder, but should be retagged by a licensed inspector to be regarded as ready for use by your insurance carrier.

If your equipment is insured, your insurance inspector will normally allow nothing less than a full, sealed, with properly dated inspection tag attached, extinguisher.

A CO2 or clean agent is best "first aid" extinguisher, extinguishing small, confined fires with little of no damage to equipment. A dry chemical "Oh Crap!" extinguisher is good to save the house or shop.

Hope this helps.

[Dave Johnson29]

Thanks guys,

I will check out the FE-36. I looked at some Halotron and CO2 and they were all around 250-bucks for 5lb units. A touch of sticker shock there. :)

I knew there had to be a better deal.

Thanks for the information so far. This is not a business as I am retired so fire inspections by the insurance company don't happen, but I will keep in mind the idea of not using a partially discharged one. Hopefully I will never have a partial or empty one, as Doug alluded! :)

[Greg Bednar]

I like the CO2. My 5# CO2 is reconditioned, good as new, tested, checked, sealed, tagged, dated, inspected, yadda yadda yadda, looks like new and was purchased from a division of Praxair® for $83.00 + tax.

No residue, unlike Halon it might crack and IC or two if you get caught up in the moment and empty the extinguisher on the fire. But hey, if your machines on fire and your place might go up with it, I'm not going to worry about cracked IC's etc..

And CO2 is WAY cheaper to refill than Halon or Halatron. FWIW.

[pete hagan]

Frankly after you get over the sticker shock you'll be much happier with something like a CO2 extinguisher. I recently had a small fire in the laser and using the CO2 plus killing the exhaust fan did the trick with no residual mess to clean up (except for the melted acrylic I was cutting).

We use CO2 in special events to create large plume effects and I'm thinking of simply adding a couple of nozzles in the cabinet and plumbing a co2 line from a tank in the bottom fitted with an solenoid activated regulator. A small 20# tank is only $60.00 to buy. SIMPLE to do.

I would have a regular CO2 extinguisher tagged & labeled for your insurance inspection. I just got nabbed on my annual with a standard ABC extinguisher that lost its charge so I have to be reinspected next week.

[AL Ursich]

There was a post here about a year and a half ago about the Aerosol Can type Extinguisher... Someone here had a Acrylic Fire in the Laser and put it out quickly with the small extinguisher. Designed for kitchen fires, it shoots the liquid with little air blast to spread the grease fire.....

This is what I have as the first level then I have a 5 lb ABC, 5 lb CO2 and two 15 lb CO2's and a Pressurized Water Extinguisher.... In the Brush Fire Season I keep a Stainless Steel Indian Tank in the shop as my shop is in the woods.... and no running water.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/article/home/kitchens/UDEwMw/How_to_Use_an_Aerosol_Fire_Suppressant

AL

[Dave Johnson29]

Al, thanks for the link on the aerosol can, but I would not feel comfortable with one even though they may work fine. It just seems too small. I'd hate to get the fire 95% out and the aerosol runs out. :)

Greg, thanks for the rebuilt CO2 info. That sounds much better. I'd rather get two of those than one new one for about the same money. I will track that lead down.

You guys are GREAT!

[AL Ursich]

I would not just have a aerosol can but multi levels of firefighting.


I have tiered levels of Fire Fighting and the Can is just the first level... Then CO2, PKP or Dry Chemical, then two 15 pound CO2's then pressure water extinguisher.... 20 years in the Navy in Electronics I have seen what Dry Chemical can do to Electronics... But sometimes it's just FIRE first.... With whatever works...

And Smoke Detectors.... I had a Smoke Detector go off of last year above my CarveWright Machine as I had kinked the Flex Drive doing another repair and the rubber outside the Flex Drive was smoking black...

AL