What is BLO?

[David Perata]

I know this is probably very basic but I would like to know what type of a finish product BLO is. I've seen it mentioned for popping out grain. Thanks.

[John Keeton]

Boiled linseed oil, however, the modern version is not boiled, but has driers added to aid in curing. Some use tung oil, which is much more expensive, and has a slightly different color. The addition of oil seems to warm up the color and add depth.

I should add that, interestingly, the same question was posted a couple of days ago in the Turners forum!

[Mike Henderson]

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil

Mike

[Todd Bin]

Boiled Linseed Oil. And in reality it is not boiled and you don't have to boil it. It is available at the big box stores and at any wood working supply. If you use it it takes forever to cure and a bunch of coats to look its best.

Some people love it. I don't. I use Watco instead. Same look with less wait.

~Todd

[John Keeton]

David, as a follow up to Todd's post, I don't know many that actually use BLO as a finish anymore. As Todd says, it takes forever to fully cure, and it isn't that great of a finish unless applied in many coats, over a long period of time. Danish oil is a mixture of oil, varnish, and a carrier (mineral spirits?) It is a nice finish, and the oil does serve to pop the grain.

I use BLO as an initial application to get the color and depth, and follow with dewaxed shellac. From there, one can use any finish schedule. This method seems to be pretty common.

[lowell holmes]

And I use Deft Danish Oil. :)

[Frank Drew]

I've never used it but it seems very popular among members here, even under a film finish like shellac or varnish.

For oil, I like Mohawk's Tung Oil; after the second coat or so you really start to get some build.

[Kent A Bathurst]

David, as a follow up to Todd's post, I don't know many that actually use BLO as a finish anymore. As Todd says, it takes forever to fully cure, and it isn't that great of a finish unless applied in many coats, over a long period of time. Danish oil is a mixture of oil, varnish, and a carrier (mineral spirits?) It is a nice finish, and the oil does serve to pop the grain.

I use BLO as an initial application to get the color and depth, and follow with dewaxed shellac. From there, one can use any finish schedule. This method seems to be pretty common.


Definitely +1 on the BLO to pop the grain & depth, then shellac on top.

I also use the age-old homemade version of the danish - BLO, varnish and turpentine (in my version), roughly equal proportions - good finish, wipe on - wipe off, so works well in post-assembly situations with inside surfaces (boockases, etc) - since I don't have spray equip

[David Perata]

Thanks all! What I've got going is bird's eye maple veneer. My plan per Jeff Hewitt is to spray tinted SealCoat for a sealer followed by Target's Optima clear waterborne gloss lacquer and polished out to a high gloss.

I happened to see a thread on here about popping out grain and wondered if I should bother trying to pop out the eyes of the BEM prior to the Sealcoat. I'm not certain the BLO is compatable under Sealcoat, is it?

[James Ogle]

While the stuff you buy at the BORG and most other places is not boiled but infused with heavy metal "driers" you can still get "boiled" linseed oil. Solvent Free Paint (http://www.solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm) carries a whole host of linseed oil products. BLO is a great finish for tool handles as it provides a nice grip. It is also nice on things that you know are going to need to be repaired often as it is an easy finish to touch up. Just wipe with mineral spirits and reapply.

[Scott Holmes]

FYI BLO was NEVER boiled. Boiling would destroy the drying properties.


When the metal driers are add to warmed linseed oil < 180 degrees it reacts and bubbles looking as if it is BOILING. Hence the name.

Lead was the metal of choice till about 1978; now they use barium sulfate or titanium dioxide. The metal driers help it cure in 24-48 hours instead of 14-28 days.

[Dan Mitchell]

John Keeton[/B]
I use BLO as an initial application to get the color and depth, and follow with dewaxed shellac. From there, one can use any finish schedule. This method seems to be pretty common.

John - How many coats of BLO do you use in that regimen, say on a walnut table top? How long after the last coat before you can apply the shellac? Any particular brand of shellac that you prefer? Do you apply anything on top of the shellac? Again, product names appreciated, thanks.

Love the woodwork, HATE the bloody finishing...

Dan

[Neal Clayton]

one coat of any oil will darken the grain of any wood. which oil is completely personal preference.

generally, 24 hours after an oil sealer before the shellac, shellac can be applied with about 5 minutes between coats. then the top coat depends of course on what you want to use on top.

shellac builds a film. enough coats and it will obscure the grain underneath. the idea with adding an oil first is to darken the grain enough for it to show through the shellac.

[jerry nazard]

John - How many coats of BLO do you use in that regimen, say on a walnut table top? How long after the last coat before you can apply the shellac? Any particular brand of shellac that you prefer? Do you apply anything on top of the shellac? Again, product names appreciated, thanks.

Love the woodwork, HATE the bloody finishing...

Dan

Dan,

You can do a "quick shellac polish finish" by first rubbing on a thin coat of BLO and immediately wiping it off. You want to use only enough oil to burnish the surface and pop the grain. Follow with padded on shellac in the manner of a French Polish: the oiled surface provides the lubrication for the pad. Apply shellac until you have reached the desired depth and gloss of finish. Other finishes may be applied over dewaxed shellac, but I usually just use paste wax.

This finish, or a variation thereof, was written up in FWW during the last year or so. It is fast, almost foolproof (even I can do it), is easy to repair, wears very well, and looks like a million bucks. Try it on a scrap and see what you think!

-Jerry

[Ray Bell]

Jerry,

You say other finishes can be used after the BLO, multi-coat shellac. Other than paste wax what other finishes would you suggest?

Thanks, Ray

[jerry nazard]

Ray,

Many years ago, I had a project with basswood that used the BLO > shellac process that I described in the earlier post, and was topped off with NC lacquer. I have found shellac to be quite acceptable as a final finish and use it for 90% of my projects that do not require spraying.

As far as I know, most film finishes and waxes can be applied over dewaxed shellac.

-Jerry

[Neal Clayton]

yep, that's also a good use, a barrier coat between incompatible finishes.

shellac sticks to anything, finish wise.

[Ray Bell]

Ray,

Many years ago, I had a project with basswood that used the BLO > shellac process that I described in the earlier post, and was topped off with NC lacquer. I have found shellac to be quite acceptable as a final finish and use it for 90% of my projects that do not require spraying.

As far as I know, most film finishes and waxes can be applied over dewaxed shellac.

-Jerry

Interesting, between sending my message and your reply, I ran down to Ace and picked up a can of shellac. I applied it to a heavily spalted pecan bowl that I had turned, and after reading through some of the turning threads had already applied antique oil, and BLO. The shellac really brought out colors that were not there before. some reds, and yellows showed up, and the black spalting is more defined, and blacker. I am going to apply one more coat of shellac, and call it good. Thank you for the reply.

Ray

[jerry nazard]

Interesting, between sending my message and your reply, I ran down to Ace and picked up a can of shellac. I applied it to a heavily spalted pecan bowl that I had turned, and after reading through some of the turning threads had already applied antique oil, and BLO. The shellac really brought out colors that were not there before. some reds, and yellows showed up, and the black spalting is more defined, and blacker. I am going to apply one more coat of shellac, and call it good. Thank you for the reply.

Ray

Ray,

I hope that you get as much pleasure from shellac as I have. My father let me shellac a little bird house that we built when I was about four. Great fun!

The ability to build a world class finish quickly using padding and French polish techniques is well worth exploring. And, as Neal pointed out, it can be used as a barrier /seal coat for use with other film finishes.

Enjoy!

-Jerry

[Dan Mitchell]

This finish, or a variation thereof, was written up in FWW during the last year or so.
-Jerry


Jerry - Do you happen to know what issue of FWW?

Thanks

Dan

[Neal Clayton]

Interesting, between sending my message and your reply, I ran down to Ace and picked up a can of shellac. I applied it to a heavily spalted pecan bowl that I had turned, and after reading through some of the turning threads had already applied antique oil, and BLO. The shellac really brought out colors that were not there before. some reds, and yellows showed up, and the black spalting is more defined, and blacker. I am going to apply one more coat of shellac, and call it good. Thank you for the reply.

Ray

the only thing to note when buying it in those zinnser cans is to check the date, it's stamped on the lid.

once shellac is mixed it has a shelf life, and a rather short one at that. i do buy clear seal coat in the can sometimes, but try not to buy any that's more than ~3 months old. when it goes bad it struggles to dry. for anything other than clear seal coat shellac, i mix my own.

zinnser claim to extend that shelf life with various additives, but i don't really trust that. 6 months is the shelf life generally on fresh mixed flakes, so i wouldn't use a can older than that.

if you buy flakes and mix it yourself, flakes will keep indefinitely.

[jerry nazard]

Jerry - Do you happen to know what issue of FWW?

Thanks

Dan

Dan,

I found two articles, both by Jeff Jewitt:

FWW 186
http://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011186052.pdf

FWW 112
http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdf/011112060.pdf

Methinks that the more recent one is a updated version of the first.

Have fun....

-Jerry

[Dan Mitchell]

Dan,

I found two articles, both by Jeff Jewitt:

FWW 186
http://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011186052.pdf

FWW 112
http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdf/011112060.pdf

Methinks that the more recent one is a updated version of the first.

Have fun....

-Jerry



Thanks Jerry, you have to be an online member to get them from the site, but fortunately I have the archive ;)

Dan