Wooden hand screws

[Josh Bowman]

How do you make woodern hand screw clamps. I may have not thought this out enough, but I think one side of the jaw/screw can't move and the opposite screw/side must do the same for the jaws to open and close. I've made the screw, now I'm trying to figure out how to keep the screw from screwing in one jaw but moving the other. Or am I "screwed" up?

[Jim Koepke]

There are a couple of designs on this.

One of them has both screws with right hand threads which is likely what you have.

For this the screw closest to the work sets the jaw size and the other screw provides the leverage.

I will have to look at my clamps to make sure, not even sure if I know where they are. If my memory is correct, the screw closest to the jaw floats in the piece closest to the hand hold and threads through the far jaw. The screw furthest from the jaws threads in the jaw part that is closest to the hand hold and presses against the piece furthest away. There can be a small divot at this end. If not when the clamp is made, over time, it will likely acquire one through use.

This may not be what is actually taking place, but it is the easiest way for me to explain the situation. I will try to find my old pair and take photos later today and post them.

jim

[harry strasil]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/clmprck.jpg

Modern hand screw clamps have left and right handed threads on each of the screws.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/prllclmps.jpg

Old all wooden ones, like are hanging on the wall above, have one hole threaded on each of the jaws, the top one has a depression for the screw to rest in so the screw pushes against the other jaw, and the lower one has a thru hole with threads in the other jaw so that the screw pulls the jaw to it.

[Josh Bowman]

Modern hand screw clamps have left and right handed threads on each of the screws.


Old all wooden ones, like are hanging on the wall above, have one hole threaded on each of the jaws, the top one has a depression for the screw to rest in so the screw pushes against the other jaw, and the lower one has a thru hole with threads in the other jaw so that the screw pulls the jaw to it.

Harry,
So nothing special, just a through hole in the lower jaw and the handle rubs again that jaw to move it and a "stripped" treads on the upper screw with a hole just big enough for the threads to push against the jaw?

[harry strasil]

Bingo, you win the clamp prize! LOL
I don't want to muddy the waters, but there is a third style used by machinists made all out of iron.

[harry strasil]

They are basically the same as the all wood clamps except they have a spring steel Garter on the outside of the pull screw to keep the jaw from slipping and sliding around on the screw.

[Frank Drew]

IMO, modern hand screws are great tools that would likely get a ton of use in just about any woodworking/furniture shop. The deep reach of the larger sizes make them especially useful. I love them.

[george wilson]

A garter!!! Harry,I didn't know machinist's clamps were so sexy!!

[James Scheffler]

IMO, modern hand screws are great tools that would likely get a ton of use in just about any woodworking/furniture shop. The deep reach of the larger sizes make them especially useful. I love them.

I have a bunch from Harbor Freight and find they are very useful. The burning question in my mind is, are the name brand ones really that much better? I've never wanted to spend the extra money to find out.

Sorry to hijack the thread....

Jim

[Josh Bowman]

I have a bunch from Harbor Freight a
Sorry to hijack the thread....
Jim
Hi Jack away, I think Harry answered my questions.

[harry strasil]

well that's what they call the movement restricting device on wood working vises, George, same principle just metal, in fact I have a brass garter on my what they are calling a wagon vise on my Nu Bench, because I didn't like the idea of the screw sticking out posing a danger to certain tender parts of my anatomy.LOL, Always a Heckler in the crowd, but its usually me. Good Job, Georgey

[Harlan Barnhart]

I have a bunch from Harbor Freight and find they are very useful. The burning question in my mind is, are the name brand ones really that much better? I've never wanted to spend the extra money to find out.

Sorry to hijack the thread....

Jim

I've never used the offerings by Harbor Freight but I do have Jorgensens, Wetzlers and several "no name" samples. The brand names generate far more clamping force. At first I thought the thicker thread rods should be stronger but the best are the Jorgensens with the thinnest rods.

[harry strasil]

I have no HF ones, but do have some from Big Lots, and the chinese ones do have one problem, the handles want to turn on the screws, but a small drill bit and a small finish nail to rivet them in place works well, otherwise the do the job like any other wood screw clamp.

[Jim Koepke]

I think all the answers to all the questions have been offered, but what the heck pictures were taken so they's a gitten posted.

140504

140505

Only one jaw has threads, the other has a slip hole and the pivot hole.

Oh oh, Antiques Roadshow is coming on...

jim

[harry strasil]

By Golly, yourn is BIGGER, than mine Jimmy Boy. LOL

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/hndscrwclmp.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

By Golly, yourn is BIGGER, than mine Jimmy Boy. LOL

LOL2

One of mine had a makers mark of R. Bliss____ of R.I.

I should have written it down.

jim

[Bob Smalser]

How do you make wooden hand screw clamps?

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136149.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136658.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136145.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136148.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/69402415.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136168.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136167.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5424116/382136169.jpg

[Josh Bowman]

I think all the answers to all the questions have been offered, but what the heck pictures were taken so they's a gitten posted.

Only one jaw has threads, the other has a slip hole and the pivot hole.

Oh oh, Antiques Roadshow is coming on...

jim

Thanks Jim, those pictures clear it all up. I've got the threaded dowels now, and am ready to make clamps!

[Bob Glenn]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/clmprck.jpg

Modern hand screw clamps have left and right handed threads on each of the screws.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/prllclmps.jpg

Old all wooden ones, like are hanging on the wall above, have one hole threaded on each of the jaws, the top one has a depression for the screw to rest in so the screw pushes against the other jaw, and the lower one has a thru hole with threads in the other jaw so that the screw pulls the jaw to it.

Harry, I think only one jaw has threaded holes. The other jaw has one stopped hole and one over sized hole the threads can slide through. At least that's the way mine are configured. Go look at yours again.

[george wilson]

I hope all of you screw makers noticed how LARGE the wooden threads on the OLD handscrews are. They have to be larger than coarse metal screws to hold up to wear. It seems that most of the modern wood screw threading outfits make the threads too small(too many threads per inch). Old ones were always coarse.

We had an old Marples 1" tap from the 1950's in our shop,and it cut about 5 threads per inch on 1" dia. threaded rods. That is about right.

I know most f you can't make your own taps,but you can sometimes find old wood screw taps in flea markets. Then,make your own thread boxes.

[harry strasil]

Thanks for catching my Boo Boo Bob, must be a short circuit between the key board and the nut in the chair again.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I made six 12" clamps when I first started. I had a friend in a machine shop that turned the screws, one half left hand and one half right hand threads. He made me nuts from brass rod and threaded 12 each way. The rest was easy.
You used to be able to buy the hardware from Woodcraft. Now, I find it cheaper to buy them made up. It's cheaper and leaves me time to actually build furniture.
fmr

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim, those pictures clear it all up. I've got the threaded dowels now, and am ready to make clamps!

Did you see Bob Smalser's post. He has the whole enchilada when it comes to making them.

Looks like he could go into production.

jim

[Joe Kieve]

I bought 4 hand screws from HF awhile back. Three of them work great. The fourth...tighten the bottom screw, top screw moves, and tighten top screw, bottom screw moves. I'm just about to throw in trash unless someone has a solution as to why they won't tighten up and clamp as they should.

joe :confused:

[Jim Koepke]

I bought 4 hand screws from HF awhile back. Three of them work great. The fourth...tighten the bottom screw, top screw moves, and tighten top screw, bottom screw moves. I'm just about to throw in trash unless someone has a solution as to why they won't tighten up and clamp as they should.

joe :confused:

There seems to be something haunting your clamp. Is this something someone could cause to happen in making one of these clamps if they tried?

There may be only one other answer besides tossing it in the trash. If it will close, you can clamp it on to a vertical structure in your shop and use it as a small shelf for a coffee cup, note pad or even to hang your hat and coat.

jim

[george wilson]

The main problem(other than handles coming loose,as Harry said),is that you need to see the clamps in person if you want nice clear wood. Many of the imports use wood that has blackened areas in it.

[Bill Houghton]

There are a couple of designs on this.

One of them has both screws with right hand threads which is likely what you have.

For this the screw closest to the work sets the jaw size and the other screw provides the leverage.

I will have to look at my clamps to make sure, not even sure if I know where they are. If my memory is correct, the screw closest to the jaw floats in the piece closest to the hand hold and threads through the far jaw. The screw furthest from the jaws threads in the jaw part that is closest to the hand hold and presses against the piece furthest away. There can be a small divot at this end. If not when the clamp is made, over time, it will likely acquire one through use.

This may not be what is actually taking place, but it is the easiest way for me to explain the situation. I will try to find my old pair and take photos later today and post them.

jim

That's right. Clamps with all wood screws need to stay parallel. Modern handscrews, with metal screws, can have the jaws out of parallel, useful in some clamping situations - for instance, if you need to glue a small piece of wood in the middle of a larger one.