Titebond Veneer Glue ?

[denis tuomey]

:confused: Was wondering if anyone knows if Titebond Veneer glue can be used for other glueing applications besides veneer? 1st time try at veneering soft maple on MDF didnt turn out to good :mad:, now have a $10 bottle of glue left :(.

[Andrew Gibson]

I have never used the veneer glue, though I have only done a few projects with small inlays. I simply used tight-bond II to glue in the inlays.

I have a project coming up that will hopefully include a 6" or so compass rose inlay and I was planning to use the yellow glue for that as well.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Denis,
Is there a difference between TB Veneer glue and TB Cold press glue? I've used the cold press glue very often and like it. I use it almost exclusively on veneering flat panels with shop cut veneer. I don't use it on curved panels. I clamp my veneering projects in a vacuum press. The cold press glue acts like regular TB bit with a longer setting time. I usually feel like I have 10 to 12 minutes with it. What went wrong when you tried it?
fmr

[Tony Joyce]

I have used the TB "Cold Press" version for veneering with good sucess. I now use the "Better Bond" glues for veneering.

Veneer is wood so I would assume it could be used for most any gluing operation!

[denis tuomey]

Denis,
Is there a difference between TB Veneer glue and TB Cold press glue? I've used the cold press glue very often and like it. I use it almost exclusively on veneering flat panels with shop cut veneer. I don't use it on curved panels. I clamp my veneering projects in a vacuum press. The cold press glue acts like regular TB bit with a longer setting time. I usually feel like I have 10 to 12 minutes with it. What went wrong when you tried it?
fmr

Dont know about the difference, this is what Woocraft reccommened, has a pretty long open time, the prob. I had was curling of the veneers, I cut them on the BS=soft Maple about 3/32 to 1/8 thick. After smearing the glue on the veneer they really curled making it tuff to get them flat, and they really slid aroung easy, Maybe too much glue? I dont have a Vac. bag. I just layed cinder blocks on it after glueing, that didnt work to good, some layed real nice n flat, and some raised up on the edges

[Tim Johnson]

I always glue the substrate and position the dry veneer on it before placing it in the vacuum bag. I could see where the veneer once "wet" with glue would begin to curl prior to clamping, creating problems. Have you tried applying glue to the substrate only, and in a very thin, coat of paint like, layer?

[Dan Mitchell]

After smearing the glue on the veneer they really curled making it tuff to get them flat, and they really slid aroung easy, Maybe too much glue?

Pretty new at veneering myself. I ran into the curling bit on a lamp I recently made with shop cut hard maple veneer applied over MDF & particle board, when I initially tried using the technique where you apply yellow glue, let it harden, then reactivate it in place with a clothes iron. Of course, it wanted to curve in EXACTLY the WRONG direction for the curved surface to which I wished to apply it. :mad: One way I did find of balancing out the curl a bit is to spray the non-glue side of the veneer with a bit of water. I don't have a vac setup either. Although tests with the yellow glue/iron technique worked well, it did not on the larger area of the lamp. Although several people here advised against it, I finally ended up using contact cement, which I think worked great for the Maple areas. Darker wood is Machiche, since this wood was thicker (probably ~3/32") and flat, I just used Titebond III:

[Mike Henderson]

When gluing veneer to substrate, you only put glue on the substrate - never on the veneer itself. Then, you lay the veneer on the substrate and immediately get it into press before the veneer can absorb much moisture. If you're doing a large panel, it helps to have an additional set of hands.

The reason for doing it this way is the curling of the veneer.

Mike

[Dan Mitchell]

When gluing veneer to substrate, you only put glue on the substrate - never on the veneer itself.

Not sure about other approaches, but the FWW article from which I got the yellow glue/hot iron technique (issue 108, page 48) specifically advised to apply the glue to both surfaces and allow it to dry, as well as to dampen the non-glue side of the veneer to minimize curl. In the case of my project, I think the technique failed mostly because the opening in the middle of the lamp made the whole process pretty unwieldy, rather than from the relatively small amount of curl I got with the dampen-both-sides treatment.

I sure agree another set of hands could come in, um, handy ;-)

Dan

[Mike Henderson]

Not sure about other approaches, but the FWW article from which I got the yellow glue/hot iron technique (issue 108, page 48) specifically advised to apply the glue to both surfaces and allow it to dry, as well as to dampen the non-glue side of the veneer to minimize curl. In the case of my project, I think the technique failed mostly because the opening in the middle of the lamp made the whole process pretty unwieldy, rather than from the relatively small amount of curl I got with the dampen-both-sides treatment.

I sure agree another set of hands could come in, um, handy ;-)

Dan
I was talking from the position of pressing veneer in some kind of press, such as a vacuum press -such as putting veneer on a panel.

Regarding "pressing" the veneer with an iron, I've had more success with the glue being a bit "wet" so that what you're doing with the iron is drying the glue and causing it to grip. I've done the "let it dry" approach and been successful, but I've had more success with the "dry the glue with the iron" approach. With certain types of veneer, such a burl, the press on with an iron just won't work (try it if you don't believe me). Or maybe I should say it's very difficult.

Also, although I don't usually recommend paper backed veneer, it works better with an iron than raw veneer. Just be careful - it's thicker than raw veneer (if you're going to butt it to raw veneer) and the wood part is extremely thin so you can't sand it much.

Whatever method you choose, try it on some scrap first.

Mike