Best way to remove dried glue from paralell clamps

[Bill Borchardt]

How do you guys remove dried (hardened) glue from paralell clamps?
("Don't get it on in the first place!" is not helpful now. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowsad.gif )

For the steel bars I'm inclined to use a wire brush.
For the clamping faces scrape off with a sharp edge?
Any solvents dissolve titebond?

Billbo
Smyrna, GA

[lowell holmes]

Titebond can be softened and removed with a water-white vinegar solution. Heat the solution. The solution is also good for cleaning old paint brushes.

[harry strasil]

I use an old junk 3/4 inch chisel if I forget to wrap my pipe clamp pipes with saran wrap first.
By Parellel clamps, I guess you mean them Bessy style things, I have 2, I used them yesterday for the first time. They are so heavy, bulky and awkward, they are for emergencies only, when I run out of regular clamps.

[Bill Huber]

Lowell gave you a good idea, I have never tried that one but I will have to the next time I have to clean my clamps.

What I have done and it does work very well is to wax the bars really good with Johnson's Wax. I never buff it off, just put it on and now any glue that gets on the clamps comes right off.

After a lot if use the wax does come off a little but if glue sticks just a little scrapping will take it right off.

[Jon Grider]

Just to change direction a little...one thing to avoid is using blue painters tape...that is don't use it and forget to take it off after your done using the clamp. Take my word on this one.

[Bill White]

Turn on the CD player, get a beer (or scotch-gin-sour mash, etc.), sit in a comfortable chair, take out your old putty knife, scrape 'till ya feel like quittin', quit, start another day with the samt setup.
Bill

[Roger Benton]

For glue on the bars I just run the clamping jaw up and down the length of the bar forcefully a few times and the glue drips break off.

For the jaws, I find the glue knocks off with an old chisel or whatever is handy.

Love the wax idea though, will do that today.

[Glen Butler]

The reason I don't wax mine is I don't want the wax to affect the finish. At least buff it off so you don't have globs of wax on the bars. To remove dried glue I use and old putty knife or chisel or run the stop up and down the bar. What ever is easiest and gets the job done. Heat does a really good job of softening the glue also.

[Neil Brooks]

Just to change direction a little...one thing to avoid is using blue painters tape...that is don't use it and forget to take it off after your done using the clamp. Take my word on this one.

:confused:

I've had blue painter's tape on the bars of my pipe clamps for several weeks now.

What do I face?

Is it going to leave residue, when removed, or will it be impossible to remove?

Yikes.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm no help on how to get it off beyond what's already been suggested, But once they are clean spend some time and wipe the clamp faces with paste wax and buff it off. Make the glue just pop off then next time.

[Glen Butler]

Painters tape is a great idea but do you have problem with the stop sliding? It really depends on the brand. Some are more sticky they others. Intertape is really sticky. 3M and Ameritape can sit well beyond the recommended 14 days and be just fine. It would be wise to replace the tape on occasion.

[Christopher Kanda]

I put a rag soaked in warm water in the clamp for a few minutes then just used a wire brush. worked great and fast.

[Gary Breckenridge]

Lots of times I use wax paper if I think there is a chance of glue squeeze out or a drip problem.:cool:

[Kent A Bathurst]

:confused:

I've had blue painter's tape on the bars of my pipe clamps for several weeks now.

What do I face?

Is it going to leave residue, when removed, or will it be impossible to remove?

Yikes.

NBD - Slap min spirits on tape residue, let soak in fo a mininute, scrub off with steel wool - real or synthetic.

Like others, for r emoving dried glue from clamp face - wherever - I have a couple old beater chisels, but I also have an old beater card scraper - I also use that for squeeze-out during clamp-up - pull clamps after 45 min - hour, squeeze out is rubbery. Never take thetime to actually true it and put on a nice burr - just go at it with 400g - 600g w-or-dry to clean off the crud.

[Jon Grider]

:confused:

I've had blue painter's tape on the bars of my pipe clamps for several weeks now.

What do I face?

Is it going to leave residue, when removed, or will it be impossible to remove?

Yikes.
My isuue was that the tape broke off in minichunks when I tried to remove it. I suppose a good soak in mineral spirits may have facilitated the process.

[Glen Butler]

My isuue was that the tape broke off in minichunks when I tried to remove it. I suppose a good soak in mineral spirits may have facilitated the process.

Oh so what your saying is it was on there for more than a few weeks. I prefer laquer thinner cause it is harsher and will cut the crap faster. It also doesn't leave you with an oily residue. If you still have tape try to remove most of it with a scraper, then go after it with thinner. If you have too much tape it just turns into a gooey mess.

[Steve Kohn]

I have read that you can also heat the glue with a heat gun. Then it will pop off.

Anyone tried this solution and can report on how it works versus the other suggestions?