Newbie Band Saw Question

[john snowdon]

Hi, all. I think I have just finished setting up my new Grizzly GO457 BS. As this is all new to me, I definitely took my time trying to make sure I did this properly. I think if I understand this correctly, with the saw running–but not cutting–the blade guides should not be spinning. Is this correct? The tolerances are so fine I'm wondering if I did this right.

Many thanks to all of you for making this such a wonderful resource. I refer to this site daily and have relied on your suggestions for equipment, shop design, techniques, etc. You're all very kind to share your experience. Thanks!

John

[Prashun Patel]

Correct, none of the lateral or thrust bearings should be spinning when the blade is not cutting.

As you use it, you'll get a feel for how tight the tolerance needs to be. When I started, I used folded dollar bills to meticulously gauge the distance. Now I just eyeball it and it's good enough.

Same with the blade tensioning. The flutter test is the best way to get it exact, but a little tighter than that isn't gonna kill you.

[Bill Huber]

You got it right.....

I just use a strip of notebook paper as a guide when I set mine. Put it between the guide and the blade and that's it.

[john snowdon]

Excellent! Thank you gents! If I may, 1 other question. When I start the saw you can hear the tire screech for a second or so as the blade catches up to the same speed. Is this normal or is the tension too low?

Thanks!

John

[Paul Atkins]

I bet it is the belt on the motor not the blade and tire. If it is the tire/blade squealing, you have a problem. Check the motor tightness.

[john snowdon]

Thanks, Paul. You called it perfectly. BS now runs great! Thanks, gents!

John

[Stephen Edwards]

Correct, none of the lateral or thrust bearings should be spinning when the blade is not cutting.

As you use it, you'll get a feel for how tight the tolerance needs to be. When I started, I used folded dollar bills to meticulously gauge the distance. Now I just eyeball it and it's good enough.

Same with the blade tensioning. The flutter test is the best way to get it exact, but a little tighter than that isn't gonna kill you.


Once I tuned my BS to your instructions, quite a while back, man, it sure made a difference!

I had first been instructed to have the bearing loosely touching the blade. That made the saw noisy and bearings went South much quicker. Now, I know better thanks to previous posts read here at SMC.

I'm also a convert to the flutter method plus just a wee bit more tension.

[Tom Esh]

...When I start the saw you can hear the tire screech for a second or so as the blade catches up to the same speed. Is this normal or is the tension too low?
...

Nice saw. Mine always "chirps" on startup, but it's the drive belt. I just chalk it up to that big honkin' 2hp motor.:D I can make it go away by tightening (actually over-tightening) the belt, but it seems unwise to add more load on the bearings just for that.
BTW, if you haven't already, ditch the OEM blade that comes with it. It's good enough to tell you the thing works, but there's no comparison with a Timberwolf or other decent blade.

[Roger Wilson]

... As this is all new to me...


Check out the book by Mark Duginske. He gives you all the info you need to setup and use safely your bandsaw. He may have a DVD as well.


http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1264886166&sr=1-1

Here is his DVD:

http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Your-Bandsaw-Mark-Duginske/dp/B000H6ECBK

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I'll second Roger's advice about Mark Duginske's latest book. I bought it loaned it out and it never came back. I bought it again. A great reference IMHO for any bandsaw owner.

[Harvey Pascoe]

If you are going to try to saw thin veneers, you need to get the bearings up tight to prevent blade drift. Just a few thousandths of clearance can cause many degrees of drift. I finally got so angry at those plastic bearings the burn up frequently that I found some good Timken steel bearings. They do have to be oiled, however, but that isn't a problem. No problem now for several years and I keep my bearings right on the blade. And yeah, it is noisy.

[john snowdon]

Thanks for the book recommendation. I've been reading The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird but after looking at Duginski's book, I realize his was written in 2007 vs Bird's in 1999. I just ordered it. One can never have too many books!

Tom: Where do you get your bandsaw blades for your saw? I've gone to several sites recommended in previous posts but end up confused. I understand the various types of metal, pitch, etc but the GO457 manual says it accepts blade lengths from 105-3/4" to 107-1/4". When I look at the TImberwolf blades I see they go from 105" and then jump to 108". Is this just a pricing guideline and you stipulate what exact length you need when you order so they can cut/weld it?

Sorry for all the basic questions. I appreciate everyone's help!

John

[Bobby Thistle]

I am in the market for a new band saw. However, here in Montreal, Canada I'm am really limited in my choice of machine. I have to get it from 1 of 2 big box stores. I have Home Depot who carry the Ridgit 14"... and that's it. Problem is, I have heard mostly bad reviews on this saw. We also have another big box store called "Reno Depot." All they carry is a "General International" 14". I'm really not interested in this one, seeing as I've never even seen this brand mentioned here in the forums. I'd love to get the Griz 14"... but... living here in Canada, it would cost almost as much to ship it as the total cost of the saw. My sister lives in the US... California... I live on the east side of the continent. So having it shipped there and then here isn't an option. What to do, what to do? It really sucks to be penalized for living here in the "Great White North." BTW... the saw I was lookinig at was really in my price range - $450 USD. That's almost cheaper than the 2 models that are available to me here.

--Bobby

[Dick Strauss]

John,
The blade pricing is such you round up to the next larger size once you go beyond the size quoted. So for a 105.5" or 106.5" blade, you pay the 108" price, etc. They do custom weld them to your length specs though so they will be a perfect fit for your BS!

[Tom Esh]

...
Tom: Where do you get your bandsaw blades for your saw? I've gone to several sites recommended in previous posts but end up confused. I understand the various types of metal, pitch, etc but the GO457 manual says it accepts blade lengths from 105-3/4" to 107-1/4". When I look at the TImberwolf blades I see they go from 105" and then jump to 108". Is this just a pricing guideline and you stipulate what exact length you need when you order so they can cut/weld it?
John

Yeah, essentially Suffolk (Timberwolf) treats all orders as custom length. For the G0457 you'll want to specify 106". They can also help you with a tooth / width assortment based on your anticipated usage. Also be sure to ask about promtions. They often have a 3 for 2 sale going.

[john snowdon]

Again, thanks guys. This has been a great help! I'll call Suffolk tomorrow.

Off to go make big pieces of wood into smaller ones.

John