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View Full Version : Where to get auger bits for a brace other than e-Bay?



Randy Bonella
01-27-2010, 10:43 PM
I'm getting closer to needing some auger bits for my braces. I've been looking on local Craigs List and ebay :eek: but either I'm to slow or ebay prices go sky high. So if there is another place to get them I'm all ears, eyes and anything else that would help find some bits.

Of course like most, Russell Jennings would be my preference but Irwin would be fine. Any pointers to retail sites and or individuals interested in selling some of their stash would be appreciated.


Randy...

Humbly, free-falling into the Abyss one tool at a time....

harry strasil
01-27-2010, 11:09 PM
Over the years, I have managed to accumulate about 25 lbs of all kinds, and brands of auger bits some how, most are rusty and need sharpening, I let a friend have 2 braces and a set of bits he picked out back in October. They just seemed to show up by ones, twos, threes and more in boxes of junk I bought at auctions for a specific piece that was in the boxes.

lowell holmes
01-27-2010, 11:10 PM
Tools for Working Wood
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc

Traditional Woodworker
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/default.php/cPath/269


Highland Hardware
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/auger-bits-set-of-13.aspx

Gary Herrmann
01-27-2010, 11:14 PM
Keep your eye on the bay. Provided you don't need shiny new looking and a new looking wooden box to boot, it's not hard to find a complete set for cheap.

Jim Koepke
01-27-2010, 11:17 PM
Don't knock eBay, I saw a set of Russell Jennings in a worn box go cheap recently.

There seems to be one or two sets that sneak under the radar. Just keep trying and you will get a set. Try harder and you will find that you just might be a magnet for the things.

jim

Joel Goodman
01-27-2010, 11:19 PM
I would look to Sandy Moss, Patrick Leach and Clarence at Fine Tool Journal. An email to them might produce a good set. Also Walt at Brass City.

Randy Bonella
01-28-2010, 1:17 AM
Thanks all for the pointers! I've been on the lookout on ebay as it has had good constant flow of bits but seems like every time I bid on them the prices go sky high, especially just before Christmas. I'll keep a more consistent look out now that I'm getting closer to needing them and maybe I'll get lucky. I'm hoping to find something in the $30-$50 range if at all possible

I'll also checkout the links provided and see what I can come up with.

I'm looking for good users. They don't need to be pretty and they don't need to be nicely packaged they just need to work well.

As usual thanks for aiding and abetting a user :D
Randy...

Bill Houghton
01-28-2010, 6:59 PM
Depending on where you live, garage, estate, and rummage sales may be a good source of bits. Over the years, I've picked up two full sets, one almost full (missing 1/2"), and enough extras that I've given lots away to Habitat and places like that (none currently).

I've paid as much as $10 for a full set of pristine Irwins in a box, and as little as $2 for a coffee can full. This, of course, does not count time and money - you have to learn how to read ads to decide which ones to hit, where in your area the good tools tend to congregate, etc.

Flea markets, like eBay, are places where people who spent time going around to garage etc. sales go to sell what they found to people who didn't spend that time. Prices will, probably, be higher, but some folks find the time savings worth it. I don't, but then my wife and I find garbage saling, as it's known in our family, an entertainment entirely aside from buying anything.

Spend a little time on the Intertubes researching different bit types to have an idea of what you'd like to buy. When you do find a possible bit, find a flat surface and roll the bit over it. If it's bent, this test will reveal it immediately; reject bent bits. Reject any bit on which the lead screw is bunged up or the spurs are so short you can barely see them (except, of course, bit designs that don't have spurs...). Surface rust isn't a big deal - a few minutes with steel wool or sandpaper will fix that - but shiny is nicer, of course, if you have a choice.

Irwin, Jennings, Stanley, Greenlee, Pexto are all OK brands. There are no doubt other good brands not common in my area. Some Craftsman are OK, but they tend to be oriented more toward carpentry-grade bits.

Rob Young
01-29-2010, 11:12 AM
Over the years, I have managed to accumulate about 25 lbs of all kinds, and brands of auger bits some how, most are rusty and need sharpening, I let a friend have 2 braces and a set of bits he picked out back in October. They just seemed to show up by ones, twos, threes and more in boxes of junk I bought at auctions for a specific piece that was in the boxes.

Yep! Thanks again!

Got one of the braces cleaned up and a collection of bits put together as a gift this last Xmas. The other brace and the balance of the bits are still waiting for attention. Certainly took me a while to clean and sharpen. For the sharpening I got one of the auger files and practiced on a larger bit so I could more easily see what I was doing. I may not be doing the best job but I tried to take the least amount metal away, keep the left/right sides cutting evenly and didn't touch the screw except with a brass brush to clean out the threads.

I've since picked up a couple of adjustable bits. One large and one medium sized one. Interesting to play with but don't seem to cut quite as well as a fixed size bit.

I need to make a roll like yours for holding bits. I was thinking of re-cycling a pair of old blue-jeans for the material. Meanwhile they live in a cardboard box, clanging about. Once sharpened they really should be kept from knocking together.

harry strasil
01-29-2010, 11:57 AM
Rob, JoAnn's currently has cotton duck and cotton Canvas on sale, we went to Joe Town a week ago today to get some to make a 19th century vest for my demo outfit. The one in the KC are is on Shawnee Mission Pkwy right next to Harbor Freight, just west off the I35, Shawnee Mission Pkwy exit.

Rob Young
01-29-2010, 5:03 PM
Rob, JoAnn's currently has cotton duck and cotton Canvas on sale, we went to Joe Town a week ago today to get some to make a 19th century vest for my demo outfit. The one in the KC are is on Shawnee Mission Pkwy right next to Harbor Freight, just west off the I35, Shawnee Mission Pkwy exit.

I'll check the one here in Lawrence if I have time this weekend. But I know exactly which one you mean over in Shawnee.

Keith Young
01-29-2010, 5:09 PM
Have not ordered anything from here but they sell them single or in sets: http://www.brandtoolsonline.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=14&cPath=219&sort=2a&page=5&osCsid=r6faahu2492oeb13qptlpj2u03

Picked up a new 3/4 Irwin bit at Keims Lumber in Ohio, but there are made in Brazil now if that matters.

Just got a complete box set of Irwin in like new condition, USA made I hope, off the bay for 61.00.

good luck
Keith

David Keller NC
01-30-2010, 3:08 PM
I'm hoping to find something in the $30-$50 range if at all possible
:D
Randy...

That would be very cheap indeed if it's a complete set of Russell Jennings bits made by Stanley in the original box. Those typically go for about $100 to $200 depending on condition of the bits and the box.

Irwins go for less, perhaps $75 to $150 depending on the date of manufacture and condition.

You can usually pick onesies and twosies to make up a whole set for less than you'd pay for a complete set that have always been together, but not all that much less. Probably the best deal in my opinion is to buy a set that have just one missing or where one has been incorrectly sharpened or bent. Then you can replace that one with a one-off for perhaps $5 and get a whole set for about $50-$75.

Randy Bonella
02-04-2010, 12:05 AM
Ok all, I took your advice and kept at eBay for the last few weeks and I managed a couple of scores, I hope. First was a very small set of bits which included a screw recess bit (not sure of the name) and a second one which was a group of 26 misc. sized bits in various states of goodness or not. I'm sure most if not all will need to be sharpened. I'm waiting for delivery now and I'm sure I'll have more questions and I'll post a summary with pix. The prices seem to be a bit better now that we've gotten passed Christmas. Even for full sets of Russell Jennings they seem to be at a more affordable point.

The first three questions I have are: What sharpening tools will I need?, where can I purchase sharpening tools? and what is a good source of information for sharpening these things? I'll start looking on SMC but if you have other pointers I'll take them.

New learning: Every neander tool purchased requires more neander tools to make them work, which requires....

Randy...

lowell holmes
02-04-2010, 9:39 AM
You will need an auger file. They are available from Lie Nielsen, Lee Valley and Highland Hardware . I think Tools for Working Wood have them also.

Joel Goodman
02-04-2010, 10:41 AM
Here are some tips on rehabbing including cleaning up the threads. I haven't tried it as my set only needed a few swipes with an auger file:

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/bracecleaning.html

harry strasil
02-04-2010, 10:56 AM
FWIW, if you have a Hdwe store that has been around for awhile, go look in the file section, I went to my local True Value, which used to be a Western Auto looking for something and lo and behold, there on a peg board hook were 5 of the old old auger bit files, with $3.75 on the tags, I bought all 5 of them and peddled them to my friends who needed one at my cost.

I also remember in a large Ks town stopping at an old Hdwe store that the owner went to auctions and bought used shovels and other assorted tools to resell to people looking for a bargain. It still had the paneled doors you opened to store their products. I bought a bunch of tapered drive screwdriver bits and other assorted knickknacks. but the fella told me their was another fella like me in a couple of days prior and he had bought a full box plus a half a box of NOS Ivory 2 fold rules still in the protective paper for the price that was on the box (set down and get a kleenex ready) for $5 apiece.

Dave Anderson NH
02-04-2010, 12:30 PM
Junior, it is truly mean and rotten to tell stories like that about the ivory rules. Why I'll bet that not one of them was worth more than a couple of hundred dollars each.

It's as rotten as a Canadian friend of mine regalling us with the tale of how he picked up a Stanley #1 for $2 at a yard sale some years back. It just ain't right. LOL:D

harry strasil
02-04-2010, 12:54 PM
It's actually a Crying Shame, I know I shed a few tears over the rulers.

Jim Koepke
02-04-2010, 1:13 PM
Ok all, I took your advice and kept at eBay for the last few weeks and I managed a couple of scores, I hope. First was a very small set of bits which included a screw recess bit (not sure of the name) and a second one which was a group of 26 misc. sized bits in various states of goodness or not. I'm sure most if not all will need to be sharpened. I'm waiting for delivery now and I'm sure I'll have more questions and I'll post a summary with pix. The prices seem to be a bit better now that we've gotten passed Christmas. Even for full sets of Russell Jennings they seem to be at a more affordable point.

The first three questions I have are: What sharpening tools will I need?, where can I purchase sharpening tools? and what is a good source of information for sharpening these things? I'll start looking on SMC but if you have other pointers I'll take them.

New learning: Every neander tool purchased requires more neander tools to make them work, which requires....

Randy...


Congrats on the score!

There are a lot of places on the internet with information on auger sharpening techniques. The source others have sited are all good for the file. I learned from an Irwin catalog that used to be included with their bit sets. There are many tutorials available on line. Here is one, scroll down a little to get to it > http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/popular-mechanics/Things-To-Make-In-Home-Workshop/Sharpening-Auger-Bits.html

Here is one of my posts that has a little on sharpening > http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131238

jim