Warped glue-up..

[John Adam]

To all,

I was in a hurry - let's just get that out of the way.....

I edge glued a top for an end table and didn't ensure it was flat when I left it to dry (trying to finish before dinner).

The joint is good, but the panel (cherry 3/4" x 16" x 24") is warped diagonally by about 1/4 inch corner to corner.

The top will be hinged, so the warp will show.

Right now it's half hanging off the bench with some weights on it in an attempt to flatten it - which seems to be working.

My questions are:

If I do manage to get it flat, will it just warp back a few days after I remove the weight?

Any other suggestions, other than ripping and re-glueing (which I can't do b/c I've already cut to size ;)?

Thanks in advance....

John

[Gary Breckenridge]

I'd start over.:eek:

[Ron Carlton]

Start over might be best. I wonder if a hot air gun or hair dryer would soften the glue enough to help break it apart, so you could start over?:confused:

[John Adam]

Thanks...I was afraid of that, but hoping there was some magic....I forgot to mention that i used my last bit of good Cherry...off to the store!

[Larry Fox]

Any other suggestions, other than ripping and re-glueing (which I can't do b/c I've already cut to size ;)?
John

I am with others that you should probably restart. However, what if you ripped down the glue joint with a bandsaw (very little kerf) and stroked it a few times with a hand plane just to clean it up. You might be able to get away with loosing less than 3/32 if you are careful and can control things. Just a thought.

[Lee Schierer]

Normally when I do a glue up, the glue up is slightly larger than the finished piece I need so I can trim the ends and achieve the final width I need. You can rip the piece along the glue joints with a thin kerf blade and not lose much wood. Then reglue the piece so it is flat. I'm not sure it will stay flat once your weight is removed.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Try ripping it and inserting a walnut "design element", the size of your kerf, to display your "creativity" .... Of course you designed it that way....:rolleyes:

[John Thompson]

I do as Lee does.. rip it down the glue-line as I always glue up wider. Dcrape the excess glue first tough. Longer by about 4" also for that matter so if a snipe occurs on the ends (very seldom but better safe than sorry) it comes off when I take it down to exact dimension.

BTW.. I just re-ripped one two days ago after I got about a 1/4" bow. Was using QSWO and that doesn't happen often but I believe I got a piece of reaction wood with this batch. It sure reacted to the glue as the wood was about 7% moisture before application.

[John Adam]

Thanks...I'll try the re-rip and re-glue...with cauls!!!

[Bob Glenn]

John, check the boards for a twist before you reglue. Just had the same thing happen two days ago. One of the boards had a twist and I ended up going to new stock.

[glenn bradley]

I have reached the point where my shop time is more valuable than many parts I pull a goof on. I would expect nothing but trouble from the piece even if it does pretend to be straightened out after awhile. Its teasing; it will be back. Save time and money; re-make it.