Router station

[tyler mckenzie]

This whole project started by getting a used Pc 3 1/4hp router for $100. I needed a lift and a table of matching quality. I went with the discontinued bench dog lift (40-016), which seems to be well made.

I laminated 3 layers of mdf for the top, and the legs got milled from eastern maple to 4.5"x1.75". I'm hoping the mdf will hold up. I'm usually not a mitre slot woodworker on a router, i like my jigs to use the fence.

Next step fence, and finish.

I've got a detailed break down of the build on my blog; If interested you can find it in my profile. You can call it double post laziness.

-tyler

[Paul Greathouse]

That's an interesting leg design Tyler. You shouldn't have any problem with the 3 layer MDF top holding up. I've got a two layer top that has held up just fine for about 10 or 12 years now. Your going to love the PC7518/Benchdog combo. I have the same combo and it performs great.

How much table overhang do you have in the front?
What sort of dust collection are you using?

[tyler mckenzie]

For dust collection i have a 4" port going to the router housing and a 2 1/4 will be going to the fence.

The table top measure 44 1/4 x 24 1/4. There's basically no over hang, an 1/8". But on the ends there's 4 1/2" if you include the leg rails.

-tyler

[Roy Wall]

Sharp design...........very nice!

[John Thompson]

Nice table design.. as Paul stated... 3 sheets of MDF is really over-kill as I also used two and dead on with no sag for about 9 years on that table. I did run a few angle iron pieces underneath to support the insert opening with a heavy Milwaukee 3 1/2 hanging on it.

Again.. very nice!

[G. Brad Schmidt]

As RTs go your design is very flirtatious. It has that come hither look going on!

Very nice work indeed Tyler. http://www.clicksmilies.com/auswahl/aktion033.gif (http://www.clicksmilies.com/s1106/aktion/action-smilies.html)


http://www.clicksmilies.com/auswahl/ernaehrung004.gif (http://www.clicksmilies.com/s1106/ernaehrung/food-drink-smilies.html)

[Rick Moyer]

Very nice. You might wanna get that cord out from under the leg though.;)

[tyler mckenzie]

Very nice. You might wanna get that cord out from under the leg though.;)

There's actually levelers for feet so the cord has zero pressure on it. My shop has a grade to it, it's quite annoying sometimes.

The gabbles for the inner cabinet act as a support for the mdf top to prevent future sag.

-tyler

[John Keeton]

Very nice build! One of the cleanest designs I have seen, and it would actually make for some interesting furniture - sort of a Scandinavian flair!!

[Jeremy Brant]

Looks great! I've sometimes wished that I would have built my own but bought one of the RT1000 tables instead (based on NYW design) so that I could start using it. The only critique I'd have for yours is that you may find that you need to port the front door to allow enough air inflow for dust collection.

[tyler mckenzie]

thanks for the kind comments everyone.

Jeremy, I find the whole vent in the door kinda confusing. I don't see how putting vents in would increase suction at the point of dust intake. Please explain, I'm missing something. Although I do have 1 1/8 hole for my door pull.

[dan sherman]

Most DC can't generate a lot of suction. Thus if you DC has a 4" inlet and all the air has to flow through a 2-1/2" pipe it won't work to its full potential.




thanks for the kind comments everyone.

Jeremy, I find the whole vent in the door kinda confusing. I don't see how putting vents in would increase suction at the point of dust intake. Please explain, I'm missing something. Although I do have 1 1/8 hole for my door pull.

[tyler mckenzie]

I'll explain the the dust collection route.

2hp Dust collector - 15' feet 4" pvc - 4" Self cleaning Blast gate - 4" 'y' splitter - 2 1/4" hose to fence, and 4" port to router housing.

Best way to find out if it works well is to mill some wood, hopefully that will happen soon!

[Jeremy Brant]

thanks for the kind comments everyone.

Jeremy, I find the whole vent in the door kinda confusing. I don't see how putting vents in would increase suction at the point of dust intake. Please explain, I'm missing something. Although I do have 1 1/8 hole for my door pull.


Dan got most of it, but even if you could generate adequate suction, if you don't have a hole at the bottom of the front door you will have a dead space for chips/dust to collect. By giving it some airflow, you will continually pick up any dust settling into the cabinet and carry it to the dust collection point.

[John Thompson]

I might add that the hole would also act a ventilation for some much needed air to help keep that "big boy" router air cooled. You can probably get away with it by simply opening the doors occasionally during use if you don't do a lot of routing. But.. if you do any large molding runs that require continous use for several hours.. you'll discover that there is a tremendous heat build up inside that cabinet which means your motor on your router is gasping for air to cool it down. ;)

[Tony Shea]

Think about all the air that the DC is sucking up into it while it is in the free air space. It's going to want to continue to try to suck the same amount of air inside the small compartment but could potentially be gasping to due air intake restrictions. Maybe the small gaps and small hole will provide enough but IMO still seems constricted. You'll want the same amount open space as the original DC hose opening. If you match surface area of the hose opening to the openings in that compartment of the cabinet then you should end up with an equal exchange of air, which is the ultimate goal. And as stated above, the router def needs some air for cooling. A consistantly hot router motor will reak havok on windings, bushings, bearings, and other internal parts.

Great design though, I love the looks of this. Def not your ordinary design, may be some inspiration on my router table build.

[tyler mckenzie]

That makes a lot sense, thanks clarifying.

[Kurt Cady]

Any chance anyone can tell me where to get some levelling feet like this? I've searched and searched.

Thanks.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Tyler, this is a great looking router table. I hope you will post a picture of the fence when you complete it.

[glenn bradley]

Any chance anyone can tell me where to get some levelling feet like this? I've searched and searched.

Thanks.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/HDL-0620-MCF/38quot--16-x-2quot-Heavy-Levelers-10-pack

Or if your local store carries "elevator bolts" they are on most things in my shop. The local BORG stopped carrying them so I bought a bag from McFeely's.

[Kurt Cady]

I need to find some where the feet detach so I can add them to some 6" long 3/8" bolts I've got going all the way through a 2x4.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep searching. "Elevator Bolts" give me one more search term.

[Brad Westcott]

Very nice work. And useful too!

I can not wait to build one for myself.

Thanks for the ideas.

[tyler mckenzie]

Heres some pics of the fence. I got the levelers from lee valley. I wouldn't consider them heavy duty but their swivel is nice.

-tyler

[Jerry Olexa]

Nicely done...Like your approach and the joints near the levelers...

[Van Huskey]

Very nice, love the chunky box joints.

[tyler mckenzie]

Very nice, love the chunky box joints.


thanks, you'll know quickly when your table saw is out when cutting joints this size.

-tyler

[tyler mckenzie]

Yes, Lee valley. http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40045&cat=3,41306,41308

[Dennis Lopeman]

Those doors are pretty much what I'm doing for my whole shop - counters!! I wanted them flat with no parts sticking out... just in case I'm working on a big ol' table or door or something. Then I can clamp to the counters like they are a big workbench... I'll have to post pix - they are just skeletons right now.

Well done, BTW! The leg design IS insteresting... I was think you did that so you could clamp it to a table... but my perspective was off and I see that it's too big for that!!