Grizzly Sale, pull trigger now?

[Doug Kinney]

Anyone know how long the Grizzly sale might last? I've been looking for a good used cabinet saw in my area without luck. Barring that, I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a G0444Z. I just don't want to wait too long, then kick myself for missing out again, just like I did on the Rigid sale at HD. BTW, I've been lurking here for a few months... thanks to all the regulars for sharing your advice and experience!

[Peter Pedisich]

Doug,

This is a tough one - The G0444Z is a fantastic contractor's saw for $500.
It is very similar to my Bridgewood 10" CS (I paid $550 6 years ago!)...very good stock fence! with some nice upgrades - (2) cast iron wings (mine had only one), nice chrome handwheels, 220v, better on/off switch.
I would wait for a cabinet saw if doing it again. I don't want another saw w/o a true riving knife.
But if you have a set budget, you will certainly be happy with that saw, just make sure you buy a set of PALS. Gotta get the miter slot parallel to the blade to get full use of the saw.

Good luck,

Pete

[Dan Friedrichs]

I was just going to post what Peter said. The 0444 seems like a good saw, and probably the best value you'll find in that style of contractor saw. But for $300 more, you can get a full-fledged cabinet saw. The difference would be WELL worth it, and the cabinet saw would retain its resale value much better.

(sorry - I realize that doesn't answer your original question)

[Derek Gilmer]

I'd say get them while you can. If you can afford a cabinet saw definitely do that. I was lucky and got a g1023slw for christmas and absolutely LOVE this thing. I am finding reasons to go cut things :)

[Scott Hildenbrand]

I'd say a cabinet saw, too.. That's a dang nice deal and almost makes me regret getting my R4511, for only $50 less during the tool sale, before they went deep discount..

Ah well though.. Next saw I get will be a cabinet saw, 50" rails and a riving knife, for sure.. But I don't plan on that for years.. Or at least I hope not.. :)

[Roger Bullock]

Or you could do what a lot of us here have done.....but the CS now, use it for a few years, upgrade to a cabinet saw, and then mount a dado blade in the CS and have two TS. :( :o :rolleyes:

[Mike Archambeau]

Doug;

Grizzly is selling the 1023 Cabinet saws for $750 with the short rails, and $895 with the long rails.

Alternatively, there is a used G0444 w/1.5 hp for sale in Bridgeport, CT. The CL link is here:

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/tls/1569686649.html

[Cliff Holmes]

mount a dado blade in the CS and have two TS

I've been seriously considering this. I just got a new SawStop and wondering what to do with my one-year-old 1023SL. I could sell it, but since Grizzly has had it's closeout pricing I could probably only get $400 or so. So I'm trying to imagine what I could possibly use it for.

[Mike Goetzke]

Sometimes Grizzly can be persuaded to list items on e-bay. Right now the MS Bing cashback is 8% which may help you?

[Chad Easterling]

I just got my GZ0444Z last Friday and love it. I got the TS, heavy-duty mobile base and the zero-clearance insert delivered for cheaper than any other contractor TS I was looking at.

If you are like me, I couldn't justify even $300 more since I am a weekend warrior woodworker.....

[James Evers]

How would these saws compare the Bosch 4100?

[Dan Friedrichs]

If you are like me, I couldn't justify even $300 more since I am a weekend warrior woodworker.....

Think about resale value, too. I'd bet the used cabinet saw would retain much more of its value.

[Chad Easterling]

"Think about resale value, too. I'd bet the used cabinet saw would retain much more of its value. "

Not intending on going into a production situation nor am I seeing additional space in the future, so this isn't an issue with me. The other issue I ran into was the rip capacity of a cabinet saw was either smaller than the TS I got, or quickly got way larger than I had room for. That's just my experience, however.

[Dave Gaul]

How would these saws compare the Bosch 4100?


I think one should ask this more like "how would the Bosch 4100 compare to these saws?" :D

I looked at the 4100 very closely... ended up cashing in on the Ridgid R4511 closeout deal. The 4100 has it's place, but I don't think it can compete with a good contractor, hybrid nor cabinet saw.. JMHO

Doug... I too looked at the 444Z as well... if it wasn't for the $299 4511 deal, I would've purchased the 444 or the 438RLX. I don't have the power requirements for a 3hp+ cbinet saw...

[Van Huskey]

How would these saws compare the Bosch 4100?


The Bosch is the best of the benchtop group. It is better than the lowest form of contractors saws just because it will cut accurately. Once you are taking about contractors saws that can be tuned and stay tuned it really isn't a fair comparison, like a knife in a gun fight, when comparing them to hybrids and especially full cabinet saws it is more like bringing a knife to a tank battle.

So unless you need off-site portability considering the G0444Z is ten dollars less shipped compared to the Bosch shipped of Amazon then it is a no-brainer, even if you figure 70 or so dollars for a mobile base the 444Z just makes a lot more sense for a home shop.

[Paul Johnstone]

Anyone know how long the Grizzly sale might last? I've been looking for a good used cabinet saw in my area without luck. Barring that, I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a G0444Z. I just don't want to wait too long, then kick myself for missing out again, just like I did on the Rigid sale at HD. BTW, I've been lurking here for a few months... thanks to all the regulars for sharing your advice and experience!

Oh let me go against everyone else's opinion.

The table saw is usually the first big power tool you buy.

There's nothing wrong with a contractor's saw. You can modify it for better dust collection, which is perfectly adequate I bought one 12 years ago. I actually have the money to upgrade it if I really wanted to, but I can't see the point in getting rid of a saw that pretty much does everything I ask it to.

What are the compromises? Less power, but if you use dedicated rip blades and crosscut blades instead of combo blades, a contractor saw is fine. Thin kerf also helps, although I have ripped 2" oak with a full kerf blade on my 1.5 HP contractor saw.

The other trade off is that when you tilt the saw blade, they say the alignment to the fence/miter slots is not as true. Well, I make my own crown and cove molding, and then use the table saw to rip 45 degree edges. It seems good enough. If I needed perfection on hardwood, I could always tilt my jointer fence 45 degrees and clean up the edge.

I guess if it was me, I'd use the 300 difference to buy a portable planer, or put it towards a joiner . That would seem a wiser investment (to me) for someone just starting out in the hobby, unless they had thousands of dollars of money to start with.

[James Evers]

The Bosch is the best of the benchtop group. It is better than the lowest form of contractors saws just because it will cut accurately. Once you are taking about contractors saws that can be tuned and stay tuned it really isn't a fair comparison, like a knife in a gun fight, when comparing them to hybrids and especially full cabinet saws it is more like bringing a knife to a tank battle.

So unless you need off-site portability considering the G0444Z is ten dollars less shipped compared to the Bosch shipped of Amazon then it is a no-brainer, even if you figure 70 or so dollars for a mobile base the 444Z just makes a lot more sense for a home shop.

I'll only have a garage to setup in so I was thinking portable would be helpful.

The Grizzly G0444 looks great. How does it compare to the Foxshop stuff.

[James Evers]

Oh let me go against everyone else's opinion.

The table saw is usually the first big power tool you buy.

There's nothing wrong with a contractor's saw. You can modify it for better dust collection, which is perfectly adequate I bought one 12 years ago. I actually have the money to upgrade it if I really wanted to, but I can't see the point in getting rid of a saw that pretty much does everything I ask it to.

What are the compromises? Less power, but if you use dedicated rip blades and crosscut blades instead of combo blades, a contractor saw is fine. Thin kerf also helps, although I have ripped 2" oak with a full kerf blade on my 1.5 HP contractor saw.

The other trade off is that when you tilt the saw blade, they say the alignment to the fence/miter slots is not as true. Well, I make my own crown and cove molding, and then use the table saw to rip 45 degree edges. It seems good enough. If I needed perfection on hardwood, I could always tilt my jointer fence 45 degrees and clean up the edge.

I guess if it was me, I'd use the 300 difference to buy a portable planer, or put it towards a joiner . That would seem a wiser investment (to me) for someone just starting out in the hobby, unless they had thousands of dollars of money to start with.

My thing is I want a saw that will last and is very safe. So much so I've considered spending the extra for that SafetyStop saw.

[Paul Johnstone]

My thing is I want a saw that will last and is very safe. So much so I've considered spending the extra for that SafetyStop saw.

I guess it depends.

I'm going to use this contractor's saw until it dies. Since I'm just a hobbyist, it may never die.

I can see the argument of other posters. If you have the extra cash and spending it won't slow down the acquision of other necessary tools.. then go for it.

But if you are on a budget, there's nothing at all wrong with a contractor's saw. There's nothing I can't do on my contractor's saw that people are doing on their cabinet saw. Heck, if you want value, IMO, the extra money is better spent on a sliding table attachment than upgrading to a cabinet saw.. Again, just my opinion.

[James Evers]

I guess it depends.

I'm going to use this contractor's saw until it dies. Since I'm just a hobbyist, it may never die.

I can see the argument of other posters. If you have the extra cash and spending it won't slow down the acquision of other necessary tools.. then go for it.

But if you are on a budget, there's nothing at all wrong with a contractor's saw. There's nothing I can't do on my contractor's saw that people are doing on their cabinet saw. Heck, if you want value, IMO, the extra money is better spent on a sliding table attachment than upgrading to a cabinet saw.. Again, just my opinion.

Your Opinion is what I'm looking for. ;) I'm currently using a circular saw for all my projects. So I think a Contractor Table Saw is a huge upgrade. Nothing is a bigger paint than always having to setup my framing square for every new cut. Hopefully these crazy sales keep on happening when my time to purchase comes.

[Van Huskey]

My thing is I want a saw that will last and is AS SAFE AS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE. So much so I've considered spending the extra for that SafetyStop saw.

There, fixed.

[Doug Kinney]

Wow great response! Thanks for all the input, much appreciated. The G1023slw looks really great, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much at this point. Since I'm just starting out, I think the 444z would satisfy my needs and still let me justify another tool purchase in the near future... jointer, maybe?:rolleyes:

[Christopher Morgan]

Wow great response! Thanks for all the input, much appreciated. The G1023slw looks really great, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much at this point. Since I'm just starting out, I think the 444z would satisfy my needs and still let me justify another tool purchase in the near future... jointer, maybe?:rolleyes:

I think this is a good move, Doug. Many people here advise that you should just go ahead and get the tool that would satisfy someone who has been woodworking for years rather than trade up to it. And I am sure that for many of these people this would have been true for them when they started out. Trouble is, this makes the most sense only if you will in fact spend the next several years becoming a serious woodworker. And those of us who are starting out can't be sure that this is true. I am sure that many who are attracted to woodworking at some point do not go on to be life-long woodworkers. Things change. And for these people, it would probably be better for them to have invested less $ in a hobby that they don't end up pursuing over the long haul. So my view is that it is best to start small but serviceable -- get tools that won't be so frustrating to use that they turn you off of woodworking, but that will be less of a financial hindrance if they wind up sitting unused in your garage for awhile.

[ken gibbs]

I ran an ad on CL and bought a used Unisaw with new, long Bessymer fence for $900.00. I built the mobile base and storage cabinets under the right side extension table. Then I added a left side table and then a fold down rear extension table. I can cut 4' X 8' stoch sheets when I set up a roller extension. With a Forest II blade, that saw is sweet.

[Jerome Hanby]

If you have a truck and a buddy is stronger than he is smart, I'd use search tempest (a CL search engine) and crank up the range to however far you can stand to drive. I've gotten a deal or two in Birmingham, but most of my good stuff, I found in Atlanta and Nashville. I use a 250 mile distance when I'm searching.

Also, sometimes you just have to look at all of the listings in a given area. I found my Unisaw in a Nashville listing titled Delta saw. I would have never found it searching for Unisaw...

[scott spencer]

Doug - I had a GI 50-185 that was very similar to the G0444Z....very nice contractor saw as contractor saws go, but they all suffer the downsides of the motor location sticking out the back....larger footprint, lifting hazard when tilted, more prone to heeling, longer belt, less efficient drive system, DC obstacles.

Once aligned and equipped with a good blade, it'll serve you well (if it doesn't get knocked out of alignment), but knowing what I know now, I'd hold out for a saw with the motor moved inside the enclosure, whether it's a hybrid, a hybrid that's marketed as a contractor saw, or a cabinet saw...nothing but advantages by moving the motor inside.

[Kevin Womer]

Doug,
I started out with a decent contractor's saw and they will do about anything you want them to do. One day, someone mentioned to me they wanted to buy mine from me. Long story short, I upgraded to a cabinet saw with a 3hp motor and it was a noticable difference in hp, accuracy with the fence, easier to align and so on. I won't get into brands because everyone has their opinions, but as far as a cabinet over a contractor for me, I wish I'd have gotten a cabinet saw first.
Best of Luck with your decsion!:confused: