Basic Equipment for Building Face Frames

[George Richard]

Hi Guys,
I'm doing some home improvement projects and I have to make some "face frames". I don't do this professionally so time isn't a huge factor. Unfortunately space IS a major factor for right now.

Anyway, I'm just starting out and I'm limited on tools. My "table saw" is an old Makita portable 8-1/4" (model 2708) and I'm not even sure if it will hold up for cutting 3/4" red oak. I have a decent portable thickness planer (Makita), a Festool plunge saw / guide rail, a Dewalt Mitre saw and a Bosch Router but so far the obvious things I'm missing would be a jointer and a good table saw. I need to rip the stiles and rails and prep the edges for joining (I'm using the Kreg pocket hole method).

My miter saw will easily cut them to length but I'm worried about ripping with the Makita and the fact that I don't have a jointer. If I had more room (and money) I would splurge on a good table saw and a jointer but for now my options are to use the Festool to rip if the Makita fails. I can try 'jointing' the edges on a router table or purchase a small jointer. Unfortunately I have no room for a decent floor model and I've heard the benchtop models are very limited.

What do you guys recommend? Maybe setup a jig for my Festool and try the router table for the final edge prep if the saw does a crappy job???

Thanks! (Sorry for the long post)...

[Tony Shea]

With the right blade I don't think that you'll get a better edge from a router than you would the Festool track saw. I suppose if you really take your time with setup before the cut you could pull off cutting your rails and stiles square. Just spend the time prepping before the cut and make sure that everything ends up perfectly square. The crosscuts with be extremely critical as well as this gives you your alignment of the square opening. It won't be easy but do-able. If you feel more comfortable truing everything up with a guided router cut then have at it. A router table would be a huge help!

[David Prince]

Take your time and use a good sharp blade on your saw and you will probably be okay. A belt sander could be used in place of the jointer or router to clean up the edges of your pieces as long as your saw cuts them square.

[Thomas S Stockton]

Cut the parts a little wide on the saw and run them through the planer on edge, should work great.
Tom

[Tri Hoang]

A small band saw would also allow you to rip with reasonable accuracy. hand saws and jointer/smoother planes would take care of the space/noise problems. They do require a bench and some time to acquire the skills, though.

[Paul Incognito]

I've built a lot of cabinetry with a similar set-up to what you have.
I did as Thomas suggested, mill the face frame parts 1/16" wide and take 1/32" off each edge with the planer. Run a bunch through at once, it does a pretty good job. BTW, you'll want to plane the face of the face frame parts as well, to make sure everything's a consistent thichness.
Oh yea, if that's the Makits saw I think it is, make sure you check the blade measurement to the fence at the front and back of the blade. It's a good, powerful saw, but the fence it comes with is junk. I replaced mine with a Rousseau and it was like night and day.
My 2cents.
PI

[phil harold]

Cut the parts a little wide on the saw and run them through the planer on edge, should work great.
Tom
+1

thats how I wood do it

That Makita table saw is a great saw just needs a better fence
I have had mine in a Rousseau stand for years, great set up

Make sure you have a good blade and you should have no problems

[George Richard]

Are bench top jointers (for this purpose) really as terrible as many threads have stated? I've never used one so I have no idea. I'd run out and get one if it would do a decent job. I'm not expecting to joint pieces for gluing up large panels or anything too elaborate. I'm still learning the basics. :)

Paul, that's the same exact saw. I bought a Freud ripping blade today for about $35. I hope it doesn't burn the edges...

[George Richard]

I may have misread the earlier post about running them through the planer "on edge". I didn't think this was possible. I just bought the Makita 2012NB this week but it hasn't arrived yet. I just assumed you had to run things through "flat". I'm figuring on a 3/4' thick piece as wide as 2" or so. I never would have thought they could go through the planer that way. If so, I'm even happier with my new purchase than I was when I ordered it!

Thanks again guys. I'm learning a lot this week!

[phil harold]

Paul, that's the same exact saw. I bought a Freud ripping blade today for about $35. I hope it doesn't burn the edges...

get the rousseau stand 2700XL this will make all the difference in the world
a good fence will reduce burnt edges


I may have misread the earlier post about running them through the planer "on edge". I didn't think this was possible. I just bought the Makita 2012NB this week but it hasn't arrived yet. I just assumed you had to run things through "flat". I'm figuring on a 3/4' thick piece as wide as 2" or so. I never would have thought they could go through the planer that way.

yes on edge but run them thru in groups, 3-6 of them at a time
yesterday I ran some 5" boards on edge thru the planer

the longer the bed on a jointer the better it will make a straight edge
this is where benchtop planers fail

[George Richard]

Phil,
You're right about the fence. It's very sloppy. I'll check out the Rousseau.

I'm psyched to get double use out of the planer! This is such a great forum!! Looks like I'll be buying some stock this weekend. :)

[Dan Friedrichs]

yes on edge but run them thru in groups, 3-6 of them at a time
yesterday I ran some 5" boards on edge thru the planer


Not even necessary to do it in "groups" if that's not convenient. It will really surprise you how wide of piece you can stand up on edge and run through the planer - the feedroller pressure will almost certainly keep anything standing upright.

Just to repeat an earlier comment - the crosscuts are critical to ensuring that the frames come out square. Before starting, do the "five cut method" on your chop saw to confirm that you're actually getting 90 degree cuts.

[Nathan Callender]

You have all you need - just get a decent blade for the table saw, and tune it up - I mean really well. I have a portable planer and no jointer and I have done a bunch of face frame material. You can use a sled to joint the face, and a jig on the table saw to joint the edge. Cut a little oversize and run through the planer to final dimensions taking *light* passes and you'll get very nice results if everything is tuned up. Taking the time to tune up your equipment will pay big time when it comes to assembly. It's hard to fix a non square cut with pocket hole joinery.

[johnny means]

Every cabinet shop i have every worked in planes face frame parts to final thickness. It gives you a better finish (no saw marks) and greater consistency. No need to joint face frame material (I'm assuming your not using rough lumber), unless it is no where near straight. When constructing you cabinets you can tweak out any slight bows.

[William M Johnson]

I make a lot of face frames. The planer is the way to go much better than a jointer. If space etc is really a problem you could/should use a jack plane and a shooting board. I just finished my shooting board yesterday and used it on some face frames. The resulting joints are fabulous, way better than my finely tuned miter saw.

Don't be afraid of the hand plane they work well. I used the miter saw to get within 1/32 or so then used the shooting board. Only takes a minute or so more and the results are worth it.

Not a neander but starting to appreciate them

Bill J

[George Richard]

Thanks Bill. To be honest yesterday I didn't even know what a shooting plane was. I googled it this morning and I'm definitely going to build one. I am planning to build a fireplace mantel next so I want to get comfortable with my tools on some other projects before I start that one.

Dan, The five cut method is another new concept for me. I googled that one this morning too. That's a really great tip. Thanks!!

If only I didn't have to work today... I could be making sawdust!! I've got a long way to go before I could make money making sawdust so I better keep the day job for now... :rolleyes:

Thanks again!

[Lee Schierer]

Cut the parts a little wide on the saw and run them through the planer on edge, should work great.
Tom


That's what I would do. As long as you have one square edge and don't try to take off too much at once it should work.