Grizzly G0444 opinions

[Jon Canfield]

I have the OK to get a new saw and Grizzly seems to be a popular choice here. I only have 110 available, so a cabinet saw is out of the question. I'm interested in a hybrid, but it doesn't look like Grizzly carries one any more. The G0444 is currently on sale for $450 which seems like a good deal.
I'm also considering the Craftsman 22114 but this one seems to get very mixed reviews and the $799 is at the high end of my price range.

I've tried to read as many threads here as possible, but I'm interested in thoughts on these two models.

Thanks,
Jon

[Bob Haskett]

Are you near an HD that has an R4511 in stock? Grab that for 299 and call it a day.

[Tony Bilello]

..... I only have 110 available, ...........Jon

Are you sure?
Do you have a clothes dryer?That should be 220V.
My first shop was in a spare bedroom and I ran a 50' home made extension cord to the clothes dryer 220V outlet and it worked just fine.

[Don Morris]

I sure wish an electrician type would chime in here. What about code for such a procedure. Would that be allowed in most applications? If it's OK to do that, a lot of the problems about 110/220 shouldn't be there because as Tony said, most homes have a 220v dryer.

[Jon Canfield]

None of the HD's around WA have the Ridgid in stock, I saw that price and was ready to jump on it.
For the 220, we do have it in the laundry room for the dryer and the master bath for the tub, but neither of those are anywhere near where the saw would be setup, and running an extension cord through the house to work wouldn't be practical.

Thanks,
Jon

[Chad Easterling]

Getting 220V is usually not a big issue. Where is your breaker box in relation to where the saw will be? Are you on a slab or crawlspace? Can you get to the breaker box via the attic or crawlspace? If so, you too can have 220 in your shop.... the only issue may be the length of the run from the breaker box to the plug.

All it takes to run 220 is a double-pole breaker, some wire and an outlet box and plug and a little knowledge. I just ran 220 for my Grizzly 0444Z TS this weekend. It cost me about $25 (I already had the wire).

Here is a breakout:

1) Double pole breaker in the correct amperage (20 AMP most likely). It has to be the same brand as your breaker box.

2) Enough 12 gauge wire (handles up to 20 AMPS) to make the run. Larger gauge may be required if the run is really long.

3) Old construction work box. These come with "ears" that rotate up and act similar to a toggle-bolt. You cut a hole in the wallboard, pop the box in and turn some screws to tighten them down.

4) 220 volt/20 AMP rated plug. These come in a variety of styles, but I prefer the round, single outlet type to indicate a dedicated use. They will have 1 vertical, one horizontal/vertical combo and 1 ground hole in them.

5) A plastic cover for the plug.

If you want to do it yourself, I'm sure we can get your wired up.

[Jon Canfield]

Thanks for the suggestions on 220, but I'm really pretty much stuck with 110 - the breaker box we have is already full and we needed to add a secondary box to handle the tub. I'm close to the full 200 amp max as it is. Combined with sharing garage space, I need to have the flexibility to move the saw around, hence the 0444 or the Craftsman as my primary options.

Jon

[justin hart]

I bought the G0444 last year. I have it on a mobile base. It's easy to move and with a good blade is a great saw. I used some magnetic sign material to close up the open areas near the motor and belt, and some other small air gaps. With a zero clearance insert I get decent dust collection. The saw fits my needs, and my budget wonderfully.

[scott spencer]

Joe - It's on the expensive side, but Grizzly still has the G0661...they list it as a contractor saw, but it has an internal belt drive induction motor, which puts in the hybrid category by common definition. It also has a riving knife. They probably listed it as a contractor saw to avoid confusion with the G0478 that has a full enclosure.

The 22114 is very similar to the very popular 22124, but has a lesser fence and a 3/4 enclosure. Its made by the same company who makes the R4511. It has cabinet mounted trunnions, pretty much the same motor and drive system as the R4511, weighs 385#, cast iron wings, and a splitter instead of a riving knife, but an aftermarket riving knife called the ************ can be retrofitted. I upgraded from a GI 50-185 contractor saw, that's very similar to the left version of the G0444Z, to the 22124, and thought it was a fairly significant upgrade. Craftsman also has the new 21833 and new 22116 (replacement for the 22124)....both with riving knives.

Steel City has the 35920 hybrid, which is essentially a full enclosure version of the R4511...I think it retails for ~ $650.

[Aaron Wingert]

Thanks for the suggestions on 220, but I'm really pretty much stuck with 110 - the breaker box we have is already full and we needed to add a secondary box to handle the tub. I'm close to the full 200 amp max as it is.
Jon

Fair enough, but I want to make sure you know your options regarding the electrical...

Unless your house is MASSIVE and the electricity demand is unusually high, your 200 amp panel is very likely not maxed out. The odds of pulling anywhere near 200 amps at once is very, very, very remote. It is highly likely that the ampacity of all your breakers exceed 200 amps, and that is not a problem 99.9% of the time. It may be out of space, but that is no big deal either. If the panel is relatively modern you can get "twin" breakers that consolidate two breakers/branch circuits into one space. Install 2 of them totalling 4 general lighting/receptacles branch circuits...And you'll free up two breaker spaces and will be able to install a double pole breaker for a 220v run.

The only major consideration with the twin breakers is that you don't use them for multiwire branch circuits sharing a neutral. Those are the ones fed by wires that include two phase conductors (red/black), a neutral (white) and a ground. Putting both phase conductors on the same phase...The same breaker slot...Will overload the neutral and is a no-no.

[Jim Riseborough]

I wired my 220 cord into the box at the dryer circuit. So, if I am drying clothes, I cant run my planer or table saw. But actually, the other day I did and didnt trip the breaker, etc. So the amp draw must not be that bad. I know, I know, what happens if I do both for a long time, etc. I just try to use either or, not both. Its 200 amps, but if the dryer isnt running, theres 20-30 amps available.

[Jon Canfield]

Thanks for all the helpful info everyone. I've decided the Steel City setup might be a good option for me.

Jon