Window Sash 'Reproduction'

[Peter Pedisich]

Hi,

I've been asked to make a reproduction window sash to replace an old one that is falling apart from aparent water damage (shady location + years without paint).
The old one was made with wedged through-tenons where the muntins meet the rails/stiles, and the frame was made with wedged & pinned through-tenons.

My question is, can I duplicate this window with a typical window sash router bit (Whiteside/Lee Valley/Amana/etc) and use loose tenons instead of through-tenons?
I plan to use use Titebond III and Fir or Cedar or White Pine, sound ok?

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

Pete

[Chris Rosenberger]

That should work fine. Cedar would be my first choice for wood.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I would at least reinforce the corners with a loose tenon or dowels if you can't do a through mortise. Window sashes can really be subject to racking, especially once the glazing compound gets hard and starts to crack.

[Peter Pedisich]

Thanks guys.
Also...even though it's for a utility type building, it is among historic farm structures, so I have this nagging feeling that I'd be cheating with going for router cut mortises and loose tenons - even though nobody but me would know once it's assembled.
I don't have a benchtop mortiser, so it would be drill press and chisel for the mortises.

[Myk Rian]

I made some new window parts for the 102 year old Detroit Elevator Company building in Detroit.
I used a Freud panel raising bit that just happened to have the right radius. I also used the tenoning jig on the TS for the through tenons. Once I had everything set up, it was easy to make all the parts. I used clear pine to make them.
I would stay away from poplar. It rots terribly when it is subjected to weather.