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View Full Version : New here with UNISAW advice needed



joe puelo
01-25-2010, 4:33 PM
Several years ago I set up a nice shop. 5 years ago I moved to GA and all the stuff has bee sitting in a semi-enclosed shed and just rusting up a storm.
One of thos things is/was a nice older unisaw that I had just about finished rebuilding. Top was even waxed and I bought a brand new 1phase 3hp Blador motor for it and a bessemeyer fence. Most or the internal parts are in a box though a few may be lost. Frustrating to say the least!
A few days ago I see a Rockwell Uni for sale on CL for $100 and grab it.....obviously. It has a good original 1phase... 3hp motor, though the crazy switch stuff (my old unisaw just has a 220v light switch) seems to be non-working. Top is also rusted, but looks to just be the kind that comes off with a little scotchbrite. The adjustment wheels seem to work well, though the arbor bearings seem stiff. I am not sure how they are supposed to feel as it has been years since I played with them on my other saw.
When I say stiff, I mean they turn with a little effort but dont spin freely. They feel like a properly sdjusted headstock on a metal lathe if you know about that.
Basicaly my questions are this.

1) Is there any difference between the saws mechanicaly that would make me perfer one over the other? Would most parts interchange if I wanted to swap some parts?

2)Is the original motor any better than the new Blador I have?

3)Was the new baldor motor supposed to have all this seperate overload protection stuff attached to the machine?

4)Do I need any other parts of the fence rails other than the fence itself? I have the bolts and lugs to attach them to the top.


The good news is the rust on the old top came off with a razor in the worst area (where I just tested) and did not seem to leave any pitts. I thought the surface rust might some to kind of protect the metal under it and it appears it did for the most part, so that was a HUGE relief.

Here are some pics

Thanks

The "new" one
Looks like it was stored on a damp floor for a few years...just like it is now. I dare say it is a little nicer in person.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/003-7.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/004-6.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/005-10.jpg

The old one..upu can see the once new baldor motor lying in the base and fresh water on the surface.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/006-9.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/007-10.jpg

And just a sad shot of some of the tools in the shed going to crap while I wait to build a new shop. With any luck this spring will end the suffering.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/009-4.jpg


And some before pics I took incase they got damaged by the movers......LOL!!! Now you can really cry

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/atlaslathe.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/unisaw.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/DSC00003.jpg

You can see this Jet drill press and what was a new grizzly planer rusted in the backgorund in a few pics
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/spam4einstein/jetdrill.jpg

Gary Radice
01-25-2010, 5:33 PM
I'm not a Unisaw expert but I have approximately the "new" saw that you have so I'll take a swing at it.

1. Unisaws didn't change much and many of the parts will probably be interchangeable (most of the insides, for example). You can either go by trial and error or you can determine the age of the saws by the serial numbers and comparing that to a list at the OWWM.com site. Then go looking for the manuals, which you can probably get from the deltaportercable.com site.
2. I can't answer this one for you. But unisaws have a special motor mount. Not just every motor will attach to it without modification.
3. The overload protection stuff is also a low voltage mag starter, which is a great idea to have. Yes, it is supposed to be there and makes the saw much safer to run. But, it looks like you are missing the on-off switch for it.
4. The fence rails just bolt on. Of course, you'll need a fence to fit it!

joe puelo
01-25-2010, 5:42 PM
Thanks Gary. I just checked the dates on that site. Says it's a 1980

Both motors will swap I believe. I did have the new baldor up and running in the older uni and it is the correct one for that saw at least.

The switch is there, I just removed it from the underside of the top when I took the top off to load the saw for trasport. But the cover for the electronics is missing.