...for Scarey Sharpeners... MKII Power.. [Archive] - Sawmill Creek Woodworking Community

David Rose

10-21-2004, 3:39 AM

I'm not sure if I can get away with posting a power tool question "over here", but...

After spending about 2 hours tonight resharpening a couple of skew chisels and my Veritas marking knife, I am considering the Veritas MkII Power sharpener. I know. Electrons have to die to use this. But I am tired. :(

I have been using paper for about 4 years. I am not at all disatisfied with the results or the cost. I have found that oiling the paper it will last a long long time. I do final hone on green rouge on a board. With chisels that allow me to use a fixture, I can turn them out quickly. But these angled tools are really slow for me to hand hold and get a good edge. It seems to me that the maintenance (flattening) on water stones would about eat up most time savings on the paper. I've not tried them and I'm sure that some folks will say that isn't true. But I am just looking for the quickest way to ge the job done *right*. If a few watts die, so be it! Birthday is coming up soon so cost is no problem. At least I don't *think* it is. :D

Part of my "struggle" tonight came from using my marking knife against a metal straight edge which *killed* my nicely flattened back. What do you do when you need to make a deep cut in an exact position in a straight line?

Thanks for any thoughts.

David

Jeff Jump

10-21-2004, 6:54 AM

David,

Take a look at this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13057
Jeff

Tom LaRussa

10-21-2004, 12:28 PM

Chris Padilla

10-21-2004, 12:51 PM

Ah, perfect. I was looking for a good spot for a gloat over here and I think this thread will work out nicely.

Manny Hernandez had me and another guy over to his place last Sunday for an all day "Sharpening and Plane Tuning" event and I learned quite a bit.

We tuned up/sharpened a freebie Taiwan-made #4 Smoother of mine and reground a Jap. chisel to 30° and sharpened it. Manny uses Shapton man-made stones and sold us on them so I picked up a cash-sucking amount from Joel at Tools-For-Working-Wood.

You can make out most of the stones in the pic:

1000 grit
2000 grit
5000 grit
8000 grit
15000 grit

I also picked up a plate (in the white box) used to keep those stones flat along with some coarse, medium, and fine powders (3 containers). I probably don't need the 15k right now (Shapton also makes a 30k grit but that sucker is like $600!!! :eek: ) but in time, as I get better, I'm sure I'll use it for that final polish/luster. :)

I've got a garage sink going in with my whole garage make-over and I plan to make some kind of a little station there. I still need an 8" grinder but I'm getting there.... :)

Wendell Wilkerson

10-21-2004, 1:45 PM

I feel your pain brother. Last week I sharpened two A2 plane blades and it took way too much time. Besides that, I still not completely happy with the results. I find getting the backs flat on this A2 stuff takes forever. Getting the bevel right doesn't seem to be as hard. I've thought about the Veritas power sharpener, but my impression is that you can't use it to flatten the backs or at least not easily. Right now, I am thinking about trying diamond paste for the initial sharpening of stuff and hopefully I can just maintain the edges quickly with either sandpaper or water stones.
I understand your frustration with free handing sharpening too. I tried to free hand sharpen a couple of chisel and ended up with domed bevels instead of flat. I am sure with practice, I could learn to sharpen the bevel flat every time, but frankly I would rather spend my time learning to saw straight then free hand sharpen. I've seen a couple jigs that will handle skewed blades. The Veritas jig will handle them. I've held off buying the current Veritas jig because they're suppose to be coming out with a new jig early next year. Richard Kell also makes a jig for sharpening skewed blades, but I've only been able to find it at Dieter Schmid's Fine Tools (http://www.fine-tools.com/hilf.htm#zield15) and I don't want to pay the shipping costs from Germany. Good luck on the sharpening quest. Let us know what you decide.

Wendell

Michael Perata

10-21-2004, 6:08 PM

Manny Hernandez

10-21-2004, 6:21 PM

If you have extra cash this month and really want to use those electrons efficiently go for this http://www.woodartistry.com/Products-LapSharp200.htm

I get perfect mirror flat backs and very fine edges with this.

That's cheating Mike. :) :)

Don's selling it through a couple places now. Seems to be gaining popularity. Go to the Logosol website and look up Spin Sharp. Look familiar? ;)

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:10 PM

Jeff, that post got me started thinking about it again. :D

Thanks, David

David,

Take a look at this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13057
Jeff

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:14 PM

Tom, my old monitor at work hides the details of this tool. I'll check it out when I get home.

David

David,

Before you spend a few hundred bucks, check out this $26.95 gizmo at Tools for Working Wood, http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-OARSH&Category_Code=THG

Chris Padilla

10-21-2004, 7:16 PM

That's cheating Mike. :) :)

Don's selling it through a couple places now. Seems to be gaining popularity. Go to the Logosol website and look up Spin Sharp. Look familiar? ;)Manny,

We need some Shapton stone discs to put on Mike's LapSharp!! Hey, what is that sucking sound coming from my wallet...sounds like a vacuum be created in there or something.... :)

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:19 PM

Chris, to start with... a gloat with a question mark is improperly marked. I'll see who to contact to get you a few demerits. :D

And just in case you *really* don't know if this post is a gloat, send them rocks over hear and I'll make sure they are "worthy". I'll keep 'em nice and flat for ya. ;)

Oh, and please add the 30K grit first! We want a fully rounded test!

David

Ah, perfect. I was looking for a good spot for a gloat over here and I think this thread will work out nicely.

Manny Hernandez had me and another guy over to his place last Sunday for an all day "Sharpening and Plane Tuning" event and I learned quite a bit.

We tuned up/sharpened a freebie Taiwan-made #4 Smoother of mine and reground a Jap. chisel to 30° and sharpened it. Manny uses Shapton man-made stones and sold us on them so I picked up a cash-sucking amount from Joel at Tools-For-Working-Wood.

You can make out most of the stones in the pic:

1000 grit
2000 grit
5000 grit
8000 grit
15000 grit

I also picked up a plate (in the white box) used to keep those stones flat along with some coarse, medium, and fine powders (3 containers). I probably don't need the 15k right now (Shapton also makes a 30k grit but that sucker is like $600!!! :eek: ) but in time, as I get better, I'm sure I'll use it for that final polish/luster. :)

I've got a garage sink going in with my whole garage make-over and I plan to make some kind of a little station there. I still need an 8" grinder but I'm getting there.... :)

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:29 PM

Wendell, I need to do more research. If I can't easily flatten the backs with the tool, it will not be worth as much too me. Thanks for the tip. :rolleyes:

I initially sharpened the skews with the Veritas jig. It is just much more difficult to set up for the resharpening. Or maybe it's just me. But getting both angles (bevel and skew) set back is a little tough.

Thanks for the info on the new jig too! I'll bet they've found a way to improve the holding ability. That is my only gripe with it really.

David

I feel your pain brother. Last week I sharpened two A2 plane blades and it took way too much time. Besides that, I still not completely happy with the results. I find getting the backs flat on this A2 stuff takes forever. Getting the bevel right doesn't seem to be as hard. I've thought about the Veritas power sharpener, but my impression is that you can't use it to flatten the backs or at least not easily. Right now, I am thinking about trying diamond paste for the initial sharpening of stuff and hopefully I can just maintain the edges quickly with either sandpaper or water stones.
I understand your frustration with free handing sharpening too. I tried to free hand sharpen a couple of chisel and ended up with domed bevels instead of flat. I am sure with practice, I could learn to sharpen the bevel flat every time, but frankly I would rather spend my time learning to saw straight then free hand sharpen. I've seen a couple jigs that will handle skewed blades. The Veritas jig will handle them. I've held off buying the current Veritas jig because they're suppose to be coming out with a new jig early next year. Richard Kell also makes a jig for sharpening skewed blades, but I've only been able to find it at Dieter Schmid's Fine Tools (http://www.fine-tools.com/hilf.htm#zield15) and I don't want to pay the shipping costs from Germany. Good luck on the sharpening quest. Let us know what you decide.

Wendell

Chris Padilla

10-21-2004, 7:30 PM

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:37 PM

That looks like quite a tool! But it is really a bit out of my budget for now.

Lee Valley is answering some questions for me at this time. You can attach a cloth piece to the disks and use rouge on the machine. This should get about as fine an edge as feasible.

I wonder if the big advantage to the Lap Sharp is the foot control. If so, that should not be hard to setup on the MkII either. I can see how that could help.

What other reason might there be for the MkII not doing backs? Is the bit higher speed a problem?

David

If you have extra cash this month and really want to use those electrons efficiently go for this http://www.woodartistry.com/Products-LapSharp200.htm

I get perfect mirror flat backs and very fine edges with this.

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:39 PM

Chris, send me one of those "ole" Shaptons and I'll grind it up and remold it in an epoxy base! You think a coffee grinder would do it? :D

David

Manny,

We need some Shapton stone discs to put on Mike's LapSharp!! Hey, what is that sucking sound coming from my wallet...sounds like a vacuum be created in there or something.... :)

David Rose

10-21-2004, 7:43 PM

You rat! You beat me. Maybe one of the moderators saw it first and gave you "auto demerits". Well, we can *hope*! :D

David

Question mark?? What question mark?? ;) hehehe...you can't copy the Title of a thread over.... :D :D :D

Scott Quesnelle

10-25-2004, 2:10 PM

As much as I would love to support a fine canadian company like Veritas. I just can't.

Luckily, the local library had a book which contained plans for a sharpener which is a dead ringer for the MK II. Its a pretty old book, so it predates the MKII.

I will try to take some pics tonight and post them.

All the version I have is a 1/3 hp motor with a 2" pulley on it. This drives a belt connected to a 6" pulley. So you get a 1:3 speed reduction. brings it from 1750 to 583.

The pulley is connected to a shaft. The shaft has an 8" aluminum plate on the other end. The plate was bought from busy bee tools, its a replacement for a belt/disc sander.

Sitting on this with pegs are mdf discs that have the sandpaper mounted on them.

The entire thing is mounted inside a plywood box and I use a sharpening box as a means of holding my jig. This same sharpening box is used on my scary sharp paper.

Its really handy for getting the lower grits done and getting an initial bevel formed.

Scott

David Rose

10-25-2004, 3:52 PM

Scott, what is the reason for you only using it on the lower grits? I don't clean up many old planes and have only once dropped a blade :eek: that left enough damage to really need a rework. If your sharpener or the MkII are primarily suitable to only coarse work, I may be spinning my wheels on this tool. Or maybe I should ask what you consider lower grits in this case.

David

As much as I would love to support a fine canadian company like Veritas. I just can't.

Luckily, the local library had a book which contained plans for a sharpener which is a dead ringer for the MK II. Its a pretty old book, so it predates the MKII.

I will try to take some pics tonight and post them.

All the version I have is a 1/3 hp motor with a 2" pulley on it. This drives a belt connected to a 6" pulley. So you get a 1:3 speed reduction. brings it from 1750 to 583.

The pulley is connected to a shaft. The shaft has an 8" aluminum plate on the other end. The plate was bought from busy bee tools, its a replacement for a belt/disc sander.

Sitting on this with pegs are mdf discs that have the sandpaper mounted on them.

The entire thing is mounted inside a plywood box and I use a sharpening box as a means of holding my jig. This same sharpening box is used on my scary sharp paper.

Its really handy for getting the lower grits done and getting an initial bevel formed.

Scott

Tom LaRussa

10-25-2004, 6:05 PM

If your sharpener or the MkII are primarily suitable to only coarse work, I may be spinning my wheels on this tool.
Speaking of spinning wheels, does anybody have an old record player? I've been thinking ... cut out an MDF "record," glue some sandpaper onto it, and away you go.

David Rose

10-25-2004, 6:13 PM

Tom, what is a record player? :rolleyes: Seriously, I don't think they had enough power to resist the friction. Tiny motors and I think the belts were designed to slip. I can't really remember, but this is what is "in memory" somewhere...

David

Speaking of spinning wheels, does anybody have an old record player? I've been thinking ... cut out an MDF "record," glue some sandpaper onto it, and away you go.

Tom LaRussa

10-25-2004, 10:55 PM

Luckily, the local library had a book which contained plans for a sharpener which is a dead ringer for the MK II. Its a pretty old book, so it predates the MKII.
I have no doubt that it predates the MKII.

IMHO, all of these rotary sharpeners are just dumbed down copies of gemstone faceting machines that have been around for decades. Here are a few examples of what I'm referring to:

A cheap one, the Graves, goes for nearly $1300. http://www.facetingmachines.com/graves.shtml

A mid-level single-user, the Facetron, retails for about $2K. http://www.facetingmachines.com/facetron.shtml

A really nice unit, the Ultra Tec, goes for nearly $3K. http://www.facetingmachines.com/ultratecmachine.shtml (I used to have one of these.)

In gem cutting the laps, (cutting discs), must be optically flat, the machine must hold the stone at precisely a given angle, (within a few ten-thousandths of a degree), and polishing to 100K grit is pretty much the minimum for the harder and/or more expensive stones.

Compared to one of those puppies the MKII is a toy.

David Rose

10-25-2004, 11:29 PM

And at the prices of the "real things", I would not likely get to experience one. I am grateful for the dumbed down one.

David

I have no doubt that it predates the MKII.

IMHO, all of these rotary sharpeners are just dumbed down copies of gemstone faceting machines that have been around for decades. Here are a few examples of what I'm referring to:

A cheap one, the Graves, goes for nearly $1300. http://www.facetingmachines.com/graves.shtml

A mid-level single-user, the Facetron, retails for about $2K. http://www.facetingmachines.com/facetron.shtml

A really nice unit, the Ultra Tec, goes for nearly $3K. http://www.facetingmachines.com/ultratecmachine.shtml (I used to have one of these.)

In gem cutting the laps, (cutting discs), must be optically flat, the machine must hold the stone at precisely a given angle, (within a few ten-thousandths of a degree), and polishing to 100K grit is pretty much the minimum for the harder and/or more expensive stones.

Compared to one of those puppies the MKII is a toy.

Scott Quesnelle

10-26-2004, 10:49 AM

Scott, what is the reason for you only using it on the lower grits? I don't clean up many old planes and have only once dropped a blade that left enough damage to really need a rework. If your sharpener or the MkII are primarily suitable to only coarse work, I may be spinning my wheels on this tool. Or maybe I should ask what you consider lower grits in this case.

I use it mainly on the lower grits <400. I find that this is where I spend the most of my time. Once I have removed the previous wear bevel and have a good clean edge, then it only takes 10 seconds per grit or so to climb up to 2000. (I should probably get some 5, and .5 micron paper from LV next time I am there).

Since I am only spending 10 seconds per grit it is much faster for me to just use non powered methods for the higher grits. It takes me probably 10 seconds just to change a platter. Stop the machine, lift the old one off, put the new one on, start it up. and sharpen.

If I was doing alot of gang sharpening, like lets say... 120 marking knives, then it would be worth it to change grits, sharpen all the blades at that grit then move up. Usually though I am only doing 1 or 2 blades at a time.

I think you can use the MKII for doing the higher grits, and lots of people do, its just for me the higher grits are the least amount of work so I don't find it necessary.

For my neander shop it also does double duty as a disc sander for the odd thing that I need one of those for.

Scott

David Rose

10-26-2004, 1:19 PM

I understand. Thank you.

It is often difficult to determine how *I* will use a tool based on other's experiences. But that is still better than making a "cold turkey" purchase with only manufacturer's claims to support it.

Do you just freehand through the finer grits? It takes me more than 10 seconds to mount the jig. :o

David

I use it mainly on the lower grits <400. I find that this is where I spend the most of my time. Once I have removed the previous wear bevel and have a good clean edge, then it only takes 10 seconds per grit or so to climb up to 2000. (I should probably get some 5, and .5 micron paper from LV next time I am there).

Since I am only spending 10 seconds per grit it is much faster for me to just use non powered methods for the higher grits. It takes me probably 10 seconds just to change a platter. Stop the machine, lift the old one off, put the new one on, start it up. and sharpen.

If I was doing alot of gang sharpening, like lets say... 120 marking knives, then it would be worth it to change grits, sharpen all the blades at that grit then move up. Usually though I am only doing 1 or 2 blades at a time.

I think you can use the MKII for doing the higher grits, and lots of people do, its just for me the higher grits are the least amount of work so I don't find it necessary.

For my neander shop it also does double duty as a disc sander for the odd thing that I need one of those for.

Scott

Scott Quesnelle

10-26-2004, 5:20 PM

David,

Take a look at the sharpening box shown on this site. I have something very similar mounted on both the MKII clone, and for my scary sharp sheets. The distance from the top of the abrasive to the sidewalls is the same on both of them. Because of that I don't have to adjust the jig at all. I actually have considered getting thin pieces of brass shim to mount on the sidewalls. This would allow me to do a micro bevel.

This isn't my site, but shows the tool quite nicely.
http://www.jhml.org/tools/

Take a look at the old tools archive at www.oldtools.org, do an advanced search with sharpening box in as the subject title.

I only have the one dowel/jig but it is easy to make more.

The other bonus of doing the higher grits unpowered is that its already setup to remove the burr at the end.

Scott

David Rose

10-27-2004, 2:00 AM

Thanks Scott! So simple yet so efficient! I plan to use the idea one way or another.

David

David,

Take a look at the sharpening box shown on this site. I have something very similar mounted on both the MKII clone, and for my scary sharp sheets. The distance from the top of the abrasive to the sidewalls is the same on both of them. Because of that I don't have to adjust the jig at all. I actually have considered getting thin pieces of brass shim to mount on the sidewalls. This would allow me to do a micro bevel.

This isn't my site, but shows the tool quite nicely.
http://www.jhml.org/tools/

Take a look at the old tools archive at www.oldtools.org, do an advanced search with sharpening box in as the subject title.

I only have the one dowel/jig but it is easy to make more.

The other bonus of doing the higher grits unpowered is that its already setup to remove the burr at the end.

Scott

Wendell Wilkerson

10-27-2004, 1:45 PM

Scott,

Do you ever have trouble keeping the blade square with the sharpening box? It is looks like it would be easy to skew the dowel while sharpening if you are not careful that's why I ask the question. I bought a big dowel in order to build one, but it hasn't quite made it to the top of my project list. I was thinking of rabbeting the top of the sharpening box (when I build it) to capture the dowel so you cannot skew it easily. I can see where skewing wouldn't be an issue with plane blades. I am really more concerned with narrow chisels (1/2" or less). I can't seem to sharpen them straight. The eclipse stye jig I have rocks too much with narrow chisels.

Wendell

David Rose

10-27-2004, 4:11 PM

Wendell, would it matter if you skewed the dowel? As long as both ends stayed on the box, I don't think it would change anything. Keeping a narrow chisel consistently flat in the dowel sounds like more of a problem to me. Maybe inletting a coin in the bottom half and filing it flat would give more "uncompressable" support?

David

Scott,

Do you ever have trouble keeping the blade square with the sharpening box? It is looks like it would be easy to skew the dowel while sharpening if you are not careful that's why I ask the question. I bought a big dowel in order to build one, but it hasn't quite made it to the top of my project list. I was thinking of rabbeting the top of the sharpening box (when I build it) to capture the dowel so you cannot skew it easily. I can see where skewing wouldn't be an issue with plane blades. I am really more concerned with narrow chisels (1/2" or less). I can't seem to sharpen them straight. The eclipse stye jig I have rocks too much with narrow chisels.

Wendell

Scott Quesnelle

10-28-2004, 10:06 AM

Wendell,

Skewing is not that big of a problem. The dowel doesn't stick much past the edges of the box so if I skew it too much then it will fall off.

The length of the dowel helps you keep it from skewing as well. Much easier to see that it is skewed than a little 1" jig.

Saying that skewing is usually not the reason you get an out of square edge. Pressure is. Especially on narrow stuff you can only get a few fingers on it. If this is your right hand for example, you are putting more force on one side rather than the other.

My suggestion to you is let up on the force you apply. The amount of force varies with the width of the blade. So 4x as much force for a 2" plane blade than a 1/2" chisel. I found that I was way to heavy handed when I was starting. Better to let the abrasive do the work than to try and ram it through the abrasive.

Will try and get some pics posted in the next day or so. Also if people want I can see if I have the name of the book around still.

Adrian Wood

10-28-2004, 6:05 PM

Richard Kell also makes a jig for sharpening skewed blades, but I've only been able to find it at Dieter Schmid's Fine Tools and I don't want to pay the shipping costs from Germany.

Wendell
Wendell,
You can get the Richard Kell skew guide from www.europeanhandtools.com (http://www.europeanhandtools.com/) in Canada. I have dealt with them twice now, and found them quick to respond.

Adrian

Scott Quesnelle

11-07-2004, 4:18 PM

Below is 4 pictures of my version of the MKII.

It uses MDF discs instead of the aluminum ones. It doesn't have the sharpening box attached which I use to guide my sharpening.

http://www.cs-club.org/~scottq/sharp1.JPG

Here it is with the mdf disc removed. The disc stays in place by way of 2 1/4 pieces of steel that stick up 1/4".
http://www.cs-club.org/~scottq/sharp2.JPG

This is the underside of the sharpener
http://www.cs-club.org/~scottq/sharp3.JPG

This is a closeup showing the 2 pillow blocks, the pulley and the underside of the platter.
http://www.cs-club.org/~scottq/sharp4.JPG

Steve Clardy

11-07-2004, 6:37 PM

Nice setup Scott.
David. I clicked the button on the MK11.
Oughta be here this coming week. Maybe I'll bring it to Terry's next year and try to compete with Peacock. Lol
Steve

David Rose

11-08-2004, 1:32 AM

Scott, I agree with Steve. That should do the job!

Steve, doncha know that if you don't bother to finish filling out the forms, that you don't *have* to buy an item just because you click on it? :eek: Maybe I should say, it won't "be coming there next week" just because you click on it. Why do I think you already know that? :D Did you ship it here for testing and bug removal? :rolleyes: We better have another good evaluation coming on this critter. :( My birthday is soon and I'm hearing NOTHING!

David

Nice setup Scott.
David. I clicked the button on the MK11.
Oughta be here this coming week. Maybe I'll bring it to Terry's next year and try to compete with Peacock. Lol
Steve

Steve Clardy

11-08-2004, 2:34 AM

Scott, I agree with Steve. That should do the job!

Steve, doncha know that if you don't bother to finish filling out the forms, that you don't *have* to buy an item just because you click on it? :eek: Maybe I should say, it won't "be coming there next week" just because you click on it. Why do I think you already know that? :D Did you ship it here for testing and bug removal? :rolleyes: We better have another good evaluation coming on this critter. :( My birthday is soon and I'm hearing NOTHING!

David
Ho Ho. Ya. I know. lol
I sat on the thing for two weeks and it was poking me.:eek:
Last click I did, I suddenly got this----Confirmed order email.:confused: :confused:
So I gotta pay for it too?:confused:

David Rose

11-08-2004, 3:05 AM

Steve, my understanding is that if you used a credit card, you don't have to pay for it. My only concern is that the guys who have told me this always met with such terrible problems. Evil men seemed to come out of the woodwork and start breaking their bones! Because of that, I haven't tried. Let us know if you manage to get away with this. :eek:

David

Ho Ho. Ya. I know. lol
I sat on the thing for two weeks and it was poking me.:eek:
Last click I did, I suddenly got this----Confirmed order email.:confused: :confused:
So I gotta pay for it too?:confused:

Harry Pye

11-08-2004, 3:52 PM

I was at the Woodworking show in Fort Washington, PA this weekend and watched the demonstrator from Japanese tools. He had gotten a mirror finish on the edge of a plane iron and was showing it to all of the folks watching. I asked how long it took him to learn how to hold the tool flat on the stone. He said, "About five minutes. Come over here by me." He proceeded to put the plane iron in my hands and pushing my fingers where they should be. Then I got to sharpen it a bit. I don't know how well I did but I didn't mess up his edge.

Steve Clardy

11-08-2004, 8:28 PM

Steve, my understanding is that if you used a credit card, you don't have to pay for it. My only concern is that the guys who have told me this always met with such terrible problems. Evil men seemed to come out of the woodwork and start breaking their bones! Because of that, I haven't tried. Let us know if you manage to get away with this. :eek:

David
LV came through again as usual.:D Brown truck brought a box with a MK11 in it.
Here's the pics so I won't have the pic patrol on me.:rolleyes:
David. Probably if I ever tried that no pay thing, you'd find me out in front of the house on the road, with buzzards finishing me off. :eek:

You got your dues paid up so you can cross the border into Missouri?:confused:
If you do, come on up and give it a spin.
Steve:)

David Rose

11-08-2004, 9:11 PM

Uh, I don't think pics of a cardboard box pass, even with the terroristic box knife in front of it.

That's the exact one I had my eyes on! If you are going to buy it out from under me at least you could come by with a live personal gloat... to sharpen my stuff... I'll even pay AR tresspass fees.

David

LV came through again as usual.:D Brown truck brought a box with a MK11 in it.
Here's the pics so I won't have the pic patrol on me.:rolleyes:
David. Probably if I ever tried that no pay thing, you'd find me out in front of the house on the road, with buzzards finishing me off. :eek:

You got your dues paid up so you can cross the border into Missouri?:confused:
If you do, come on up and give it a spin.
Steve:)

Steve Clardy

11-08-2004, 9:23 PM

Uh, I don't think pics of a cardboard box pass, even with the terroristic box knife in front of it.

That's the exact one I had my eyes on! If you are going to buy it out from under me at least you could come by with a live personal gloat... to sharpen my stuff... I'll even pay AR tresspass fees.

David
Hey Hey!! None of that Arkie fee stuff there David. I got connections to call the dogs off when I blow the Arkie border.:D
I took my first breath down there about 3 miles from Pea Ridge National Military Park. [ Mom kicked me out there:eek:]

Now when I was picking this sharpener out, I told them I wanted the one with your name and c.c numbers on it. But they said they still had another in reserve for you. So I was thinking about you.:rolleyes:
So I have to take it out of the box??? Sheeeshhh