What to look for in air dried ash for workbench?

[Dan Forman]

I want to build a Roubo style bench, have found some air dried 8/4 ash at a very reasonable price on --- $1.50 bf. It's been air drying for at least two years, will know more about how it was dried when I can speak to the seller tomorrow. He has about 200 bf, which is probably close to what I'll need, depending on how the milling plays out. I told him my requirements and what I wanted it for, and he seems to think it would fill the bill.

He sent me a pic of a few representative boards - 2x4 and 2x6", he also has some 2x8's - some do have a mix of sap and heart wood. Am I correct in assuming that shouldn't be a problem? He said they are mostly clear of knots, or that knots could be cut out in the milling to get 3 1/2" widths for the top. He would also price around edge knots and defects. I'm less concerned about the look of knots than the fact that in my experience, they can be associated with wood movement when milling.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/124-009.jpg

I'm thinking I want the straightest grained stock for the top, with the fewest grain reversals for ease in planing once laminated, and that the gnarlier pieces would be most suited for the massive 4" wide legs.

Anything else I should know about this before buying? I don't have a moisture meter, I'm hoping the seller has one, I'll ask when I call him tomorrow. I'd also like to see the stuff before committing on it.

Dan

[Roger Bullock]

Don't know how it was stored for those two years but in our area it is a favorite food for a wood boring insect. Look closely for tiny holes. Sometimes the holes are hard to see because the entrance will be full of hard powdered sawdust.

When I look at rough cut non professional milled hardwood, I take a small hand plane with me. When in doubt, I will plane off a small section and run a wet rag over the surface to better see the grain, holes, etc.

Try to find out how it was stacked. If not stacked properly, it may look good and straight for a short time after coming off the pile but will cup, twist, and bow once removed. The photo shows no signs of sticker marks, which is a good sign of solid packed storage (not a good thing for green lumber). Also the third board from the left appears to have a water stain on the lower third, so check over for signs of water damage. The right board is marked 13+, look at growth rings on end grain of wide ones, and remember that pith can cause trouble.

Don't let price be your only motivation even if this is just a workbench. Are you looking for professional results from a non-professional seller. I'd do a quick search for green ash in your area to have a comparison price, by the look and description, I'd compare it to #1 common ro possibly #2. Sellers seem to sen photos of the best first.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

[dan petroski]

i built my bench a couple of years ago using 8/4 maple that i cut and air dried and it is still perfect. i used it because it was basically junk off my sawmill.(odd sizes). i mill and use a lot of ash that is all air dried and i can surly recommend it for a bench.
i drilled four holes in each board and used four rods threaded on each end to bolt the top together using gorilla glue. i flattened the top with a router sled. go for it and remember to have fun

[Stephen Edwards]

The few projects that I've done with ash have been quite satisfactory. In my experience, if the lumber is dried to the correct moisture content for working, ash is stable and moves very little. But, I've only worked with one large stack of boards from the same huge tree that I bought years ago and finished drying in my barn for several years after purchasing it. It's very strong wood.

[Dan Forman]

Talked to the seller today, he is from the Portland area, will be making a lumber run on his way to Montana in about a month. He said the lumber was stickered outside for six months, then stacked vertically in his shop. He is a woodworker too, and has made his own bench - sounds like he knows what he's doing, as far as that goes. He said it came from a pretty big tree, and there is a lot of straight grained stuff. I'll try to have a moisture meter by time he comes through. I'm a little concerned about the drying method, but he said "it couldn't be any more air dried" He said he deals mostly with green woods, mostly cedar, so he doesn't have his own meter.

There really aren't any local sources for 8/4 ash around here, would have to special order and take what I would get, and would cost about 3X as much that way.

Dan