Bandsaw Break-in Period

[Jack Wilson]

Ok, I got one of the delta 14" bandsaws from Loew's. I have an older one I'd like to sell someday, maybe, but one thing I notice right off the bat is that the 30 year old delta runs much smoother than the new one. I was spinning the wheels freehand on the new one and they turn hard, where as the older units wheels turn sooo smoothly. Having never owned a NEW bandsaw before I wonder if there is a break-in period I should expect, and maybe after X amount of hours it will be as smooth as the old one. Any ideas?

Thanks

[Josiah Bartlett]

What's wrong with the old one? General consensus is that the old ones are much better than the new Chinese made Deltas. The machine should need no break in period.

[Van Huskey]

What's wrong with the old one? General consensus is that the old ones are much better than the new Chinese made Deltas. The machine should need no break in period.

+1 would have spent the money on Carter upgrades to the old one. Also agreed no break in s needed.

[Maurice Ungaro]

There is no "break-in" period. You're just experiencing the difference in quality between the two.

[Steven Satur]

Return the new one. Keep the old one. You won't get a new Delta better then the old one.You can always rebuild the older one, if need be.

[Jack Wilson]

Arguably there is nothing wrong with the old one per say. I liked the smaller foot print of the new saw, the 2" larger table, and the $150 price tag. Also it came with a 3/4 hp motor, the older one has a 1/2 hp. Lastly the doors open & latch way more easily. So I figured either way I couldn't lose. I can always sell the new one, or the old one, for more than I paid.
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

[Pete Bradley]

There's really no comparison between the old Delta and the ultra-cheapo big box imports. Ditch the new one, tune up the old one.

[Peter Quinn]

Break in period? I don't think that BS is going to get any better than the day it was new. So if you don't like its performance today, heave ho. I too would keep the old one and pitch the new one, or at that price keep um both and try to tune the new one up as best as possible and make some use of t if possible. Perhaps a dedicated rip/resaw machine and a dedicated curve machine?

[M Toupin]

I notice right off the bat is that the 30 year old delta runs much smoother than the new one.

The old saw is a much better quality product than the new one. Companies have cut costs to compete in the present market place. Unfortunately those cost cuts have to come from somewhere and quality took the hit. That's called "value engineering" were manufacturers are forced to meet a price point by consumers who continually want more for less and lower prices.

Just so we're comparing $$$ to $$$ and apples to apples here, in 1951 the Delta model 28-207 14" bandsaw with an open stand was $167.50. Oh, by the way, that was without the motor which was extra. A model 62-610 1/2hp 110/220v single phase motor added another $50.00 to the cost.

Adjusting for inflation that's $1373.93 for the saw and $410.13 for the motor for a grand total of $1784.06 in 2008 dollars.

What did you say you paid for your new BS?

Mike

[glenn bradley]

My dad's 1950's Delta 14" is better than any new one I have seen. He put Carter (hex shank) guides and blades on it, added a larger table and fence and it really sings.

[Myk Rian]

Try loosening the wheel bearings 1 flat on the nut. (1/6 turn).
Do it from the cover sides.

I have a 2001 28-299. Last of the USA models. I'll never get rid of it.

[Adam Strong]

If you want the larger table and bigger motor... Swap the motor and table (if it would fit) to the old saw. At the very least, swap the motors and sell the new BS. The new import Delta is no where near the quality of the old one if it is more than 10 years old.

[Jack Wilson]

Well I thought maybe the bearings needed to be run in a little. Still, like I said though maybe not clearly, is that it vibrates, way to much. I had tried loosening the bearing nuts Myk, I believe that's what you meant, but I was conflicted because it shouldn't have made any difference, so if it did, well what does that mean? No worries, it didn't make any difference.

As far as swapping parts, I thought about it, but don't know how much I can sell a "brand new" cobbled together saw for. New body, old motor, stand and table, with a fence, the fence won't fit the new table.

[Pete Bradley]

Still, like I said though maybe not clearly, is that it vibrates, way to much.
There's no adjustment or upgrade that makes a $150 big box special into a quality machine. It's not gonna perform at the same level.

Likely sources of vibration are poor quality belts and/or improper belt tension, loose motor mounts, and cheapo wheels that weren't balanced in the first place. I wouldn't try to fix it though, just take it back. It's the only way the boxes are going to know they've set the bar too low.

[Dave Lehnert]

I once purchased a Makita pad sander from a store that you would not think would sell such an item. It was very slow at start-up. It broke in after a few times of use. My guess, it was a sander that had sit on the shelf for some time.

Just a thought. If it turns out to be bad bearings you should call and get a warranty replacement first. Or at the good price you got you may try to get better bearings on your own and still be way ahead $$$$

[Adam Strong]

Well I thought maybe the bearings needed to be run in a little. Still, like I said though maybe not clearly, is that it vibrates, way to much. I had tried loosening the bearing nuts Myk, I believe that's what you meant, but I was conflicted because it shouldn't have made any difference, so if it did, well what does that mean? No worries, it didn't make any difference.

As far as swapping parts, I thought about it, but don't know how much I can sell a "brand new" cobbled together saw for. New body, old motor, stand and table, with a fence, the fence won't fit the new table.



Have you checked the balance of the wheels? You could also try a link belt.

As for the resale concern... A new motor has to cost you something. It is rare to find a used BS on CL for less than $150, so take that in consideration. The old one would sell for more than the new one in any case, but then you would be keeping the less quality machine.

My best suggestion is to either sell the new one and expect to just break even (though I would not feel right selling this saw to a fellow woodworker), or return the new BS to Lowes if at all possible (it's a turd with Delta badging). Then start looking for a saw that would be a true upgrade and sell the old one if you just feel like having something shiny and new.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Motors won't interchange. New one uses a two pole 3450 RPM motor, read CHEAPER to make. As for old saw's motor, has it ever failed to do what you needed? You can build your own stand using either MDF, or Baltic Birch plywood. Make the casters into the stand. Rockler will sell you just the lifting caster from their mobile base kit. I have three older Delta's. Two are open stand (one Delta, and one Rockwell) and and enclosed stand Delta. I wouldn't trade one of them for a butt load of the Chinese made machines, unless the price of scrap metal goes back up.

[Joseph Tarantino]

keep the older unit and CL the new one. you shouldn't have any problem selling it for around $350. put the $200 profit into the older saw. it's like getting a free ungrade.

[Myk Rian]

Check this thread. Wheel balancing is being discussed.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131021