Slop in Drill press quill, is this normal? [Archive] - Sawmill Creek Woodworking Community

Paul Ryan

01-24-2010, 11:40 AM

Jeremy,

That is pretty good for slop in todays drill presses. I have fought this phenomenon with my newly purchased Jet for months. What I can tell you is all imported drill presses these days will have slop. The amount varies from machine to machine. Not manufacturer but each machine. There is Zero quality control when it comes to quill slop. The standard run out that the manufacturers have a spec for when the quill is at a stop, is .010. So if you have .012 when exteneded that is really good. My Jet had .060 out of the box when extended. Maybe delta will do something about it but I highly doubt it, jet wouln't. Since I bought mine I have check dozens of drill presses in stores while passing through, in shops, and other places. I ran into a ridgid one time that was as tight as an old machine. What I can tell you is the old machines made 30 years ago are much much better. My suggestion is to return it, and be patient and seach high and low on craiglist for and old one. The tables won't be as night on the old ones, but you can make your own table a lot easier than it is to fix the quill slop on these cheap POS drill presses made today. This subject really raises the hairs on my neck.

Eddie Darby

01-24-2010, 11:58 AM

If you get a drill press with a split head design, then you can play around with it to tighten up your specs.

"The split head casting design theoretically allows you to compensate for quill wear over the life of the machine; my hunch is that it makes it easier to manufacture, too, but that's the idea after all: to get more adjustability in a more cost-effective manufacturing paradigm. -from link below

http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/articles_766.shtml

http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/Newsletters/NL_reviews/SCTW%20Drll%20Press/SCTW%20Drill%20Press.htm

Here is an interesting thread that talks about Grizzly bringing out a new Drill Press.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=121904

Ran into this thread.

http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:T58Eh8x1Q7wJ:bbs.homeshopmachinist. net/showthread.php%3Ft%3D34649+drill+press+quill+slop&cd=4&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ca

I had to use a cached version of it, that is why the URL looks weird.

Jeremy Killingbeck

01-24-2010, 3:44 PM

Okay, so I ended up taking the DP back to the store and getting another of the same one. I looked at the floor model and it's quill was vary tight on it. The one that I ended up exchanging for has just a little slop, but it is about 1/4 as much as the one I returned. I hope this one ends up working out for me because the DP is vary heave to move.

kenneth kayser

01-24-2010, 11:59 PM

I think it is a matter of adjustment. My Jet had some slop when new, but It was easily adjusted out by squeezing the casting around the quill. If the manual does not tell you how, call Delta. If there is no adjustment, then, the best you can do is hand select your machine. Or return it and buy one with an adjustment.

Dana Vogel

01-25-2010, 7:40 AM

Paul Ryan

01-25-2010, 8:40 AM

Take it back for a refund and then find the Steel City DP, it has the split housing design and adjusting clamp to compensate for quill wear/slop. This design was originally used by Clausen Industrial Mfg on their DP's then Delta, PM and other American made DP's followed but since moving their stuff to Asia most have dropped it to save cost. I had a Jet 17" for 10 years and it just got worse (1/16") before retiring it and locating an old Wilton DP on EBay.

The steel city split head is not like the old clausings and old drill presses. It is more marketing gimick. There is only one place for the quill to be adjusted on the steel city. The old drill presses had mulitple places for the quill to be adjusted at. It isn't the same, the old drill presses are 10x better machines than anything built today.

Eddie Darby

01-25-2010, 10:24 AM

The steel city split head is not like the old clausings and old drill presses. It is more marketing gimick. There is only one place for the quill to be adjusted on the steel city. The old drill presses had mulitple places for the quill to be adjusted at. It isn't the same, the old drill presses are 10x better machines than anything built today.

So if you had this machine, would you drill and tap a couple of more holes into the head?

Jeremy Killingbeck

01-26-2010, 7:09 AM

I think that i'm going to take your advice and take the DP back. After I exchanged the dp I got one with a tighter quill, but when it started running it it had enough vibration to walk my work piece off the table. I have an old 1950's Craftsman DP that runs much smoother than the new Delta's. I was hoping that the Delta would work better than the old craftsman, because I really like some of the newer features. But I think I will stick with the old Craftsman DP until I can aford a true upgrade like a powermatic.

Paul Ryan

01-26-2010, 8:27 AM

But I think I will stick with the old Craftsman DP until I can aford a true upgrade like a powermatic.

Dont hold your breath that the quill on the new powermatics will be any tighter. I have tested 2 of them and both were as loose as my Jet. Buy and oldie but a goodie.

glenn bradley

01-26-2010, 8:46 AM

Many reports on the 17-950 having this problem including mine. The Delta boys fixed it with a "bearing kit" the total contents of which I am not aware. Probably just bearings. This model is the 'top of the line' of their lower end line and has the same basic design as their small benchtop Shopmaster series. Although decent for the under $300 price I paid I wouldn't pay any more.

The PMs and Jets I researched at near twice the price were equal quality. I was saving for a Steel City when the Delta deal popped up. I don't know if that machine has remained on track as far as quality goes or not. I looked at some machines that were pushing $1000 as well that were not much better. It just can't be that hard to make a DP as solid as my 1940's Milwaukee/Delta; it just can't be. :confused:

Pete Bova

03-04-2010, 7:53 PM

John Coloccia

03-04-2010, 9:25 PM

I have to say that the play in my Delta has definitely not gotten any better over time. The thing is only a few years old, but I agree with what everyone else said. It just can't be this difficult to make a stupid drill press. It's really frustrating.

Rod Sheridan

03-05-2010, 9:15 AM

The It just can't be that hard to make a DP as solid as my 1940's Milwaukee/Delta; it just can't be. :confused:

You're right Glenn, it's not hard, it just costs money. Your 1940 drill press was probably a lot more expensive in cost adjusted dollars than your Delta drill press is today.

Perhaps comparing a General drill press would be more accurate to show what a 1940 drill press would cost today.

Regards, Rod.

John Coloccia

03-05-2010, 9:16 AM

Is general still making good presses? I'm really starting to get desperate for something that works.

Rod Sheridan

03-05-2010, 9:45 AM

Is general still making good presses? I'm really starting to get desperate for something that works.

I believe so, however if I remember correctly they start at about $1,800.

I guess that's a 1940 price in 2010.........Regards, Rod.

P.S. They don't have lasers or 500 speeds..........They look kind of 1940 ish except they have belt guards.

James Combs

03-05-2010, 10:14 AM

It's a strange coincidence that I ran across this thread today. I just spent most of the afternoon yesterday tearing into my Delta 17-950L Drill Press because of excessive quill play. For those of you who may not have the option of returning the DP it looks like we are scr.... There is no adjustment for play:(. The quill fits into un-adjustable bored holes in the casting. No replaceable bushings or bearings, no split housing, just raw solid cast iron. A good machine shop could perhaps remill the holes for replaceable bushings but that would probably cost the price of a new DP.:( There is an adjustment however for the actual drill drive shaft. I tightened that up and it helped a little, very little, but it did help. I also regreased the quill heavily which also help some although I am sure that is very temporary. Luckily I am only working with wood and not building space shuttles or something else critical.:rolleyes: As someone else noted it does vibrate and has always done so. I certainly wouldn't recommend one as precision machine.

Edit Note: I will be getting myself an end-mill this spring. I may try to do some mod to it to add a tightening function for the quill.

phil harold

03-05-2010, 10:24 AM

Most of these 200-500 drill presses are designed for Joe homeowner and woodworkers not for the Machinist and will suffer from runout

A high quality Jacobs chuck will improve your results

Paul Ryan

03-05-2010, 10:26 AM

Just bought a 17-950L as a close out at Lowes and after setting it up tonight, I find I have .013" of play front to back and .010 side to side with the shaft extended anywhere past 1". Will call Delta tomorrow and see if they can fix this. I have a Sears 15" that has the same amount of play almost. Thats the reason I went for a new one. If they can't fix this, I'll return it and try to repair the Craftsman. Good price but with the same problem doesn't jive...I'll let you know what happens.... Pete

Pete,

That is a good drill press in today's market. If you are looking for a new drill press I would keep that one. Most drill presses produced today wont have much less run out than that. that is if you measured your play with the quill at a stop, not free. My quill when free not resting at a stop have close to .060 play. That is over 5 times what you are talking about, and jet says that is acceptable. It pisses me off everytime I talk about it.

phil harold

03-05-2010, 10:37 AM

Grizzly does have some complex drilling machines (mills)
that can be had for less then a grand
G8689 is less than 5 bills

Myk Rian

03-05-2010, 10:39 AM

I was at Lowes the other day and looked at a Ridgid on display. The quill was as tight as anything I had used at work. I was impressed. The downturn was quill travel. Just over 3".

John Denture

03-05-2010, 10:42 AM

Pete,

That is a good drill press in today's market. If you are looking for a new drill press I would keep that one. Most drill presses produced today wont have much less run out than that. that is if you measured your play with the quill at a stop, not free. My quill when free not resting at a stop have close to .060 play. That is over 5 times what you are talking about, and jet says that is acceptable. It pisses me off everytime I talk about it.

I checked my 1974 Delta, and with the quill at nearly full extension (4") (but about 1/4" off the stop), measuring 2" below the chuck jaws on a forstner bit shaft, I'm able to obtain about .004" side to side play and .002" front to back play. I guess after 35 years, it might need a little adjusting.

My 1930s Buffalo is even worse- I get nearly .001" play if I really wrench on it. Luckily it has a split casting and several sets of bearings, so it can be tightened up when necessary.

phil harold

03-05-2010, 10:51 AM

I checked my 1974 Delta, and with the quill at nearly full extension (4") (but about 1/4" off the stop), measuring 2" below the chuck jaws on a forstner bit shaft, I'm able to obtain about .004" side to side play and .002" front to back play. I guess after 35 years, it might need a little adjusting.

My 1930s Buffalo is even worse- I get nearly .001" play if I really wrench on it. Luckily it has a split casting and several sets of bearings, so it can be tightened up when necessary.

without locking my quill on my 1962 southbend I get .002"
dad paid 167 dollars for it
that would cost $1,183.99 using the Consumer Price Index
http://www.measuringworth.com/uscompare/

Rod Sheridan

03-05-2010, 11:12 AM

without locking my quill on my 1962 southbend I get .002"
dad paid 167 dollars for it
that would cost $1,183.99 using the Consumer Price Index
http://www.measuringworth.com/uscompare/

Thanks Phil, that's very interesting.

So it sounds like your father spent a significant amount of money on the drill press, compared to today when we don't typically spend that much.

regards, Rod.

phil harold

03-05-2010, 11:40 AM

Thanks Phil, that's very interesting.

So it sounds like your father spent a significant amount of money on the drill press, compared to today when we don't typically spend that much.

regards, Rod.

Exactly the point, people are expecting high quality at low price

The average joe buys a Delta because the name used to mean quality tool.
Now with all the DIY/Home Improvement stores and tv shows there is a large market for cheap tools and manufactures have answered the call by producing a consumer line of products. The home owner is expecting the quality of professional tools in the consumer line of products.

Delta and others are producing so much crap for the masses that in time they will have to rebrand thier name for the professional line of tools just as Black&Decker did 20 years ago so the pros will buy them again

just for fun I went to Delta's site and searched for the specifcations on the drill press
There was none listed for runout...

the advert for my drill press does .001

Paul Ryan

03-05-2010, 1:56 PM

I checked my 1974 Delta, and with the quill at nearly full extension (4") (but about 1/4" off the stop), measuring 2" below the chuck jaws on a forstner bit shaft, I'm able to obtain about .004" side to side play and .002" front to back play. I guess after 35 years, it might need a little adjusting.

My 1930s Buffalo is even worse- I get nearly .001" play if I really wrench on it. Luckily it has a split casting and several sets of bearings, so it can be tightened up when necessary.

That is why I push the phosophy of buy and oldie but a goodie. The old ones are much better than the new.

Rod Sheridan

03-05-2010, 2:00 PM

That is why I push the phosophy of buy and oldie but a goodie. The old ones are much better than the new.

I agree, however there are only so many old ones.

What do you do when you want a new one?

I think that's the pressing issue, as the availability of new quality items falls.

Regards, Rod.

John Denture

03-05-2010, 4:41 PM

I agree, however there are only so many old ones.

What do you do when you want a new one?

I think that's the pressing issue, as the availability of new quality items falls.

Regards, Rod.

Sadly, the consumer has spoken and the great majority of people are obviously willing to buy garbage that only lasts a few years, as long as they can get it "cheaply". How many of the Chinese tools sold in 2010 will be around, let alone usable, in a few years?

If you analyze what these "old but good" tools would cost in today's dollars, people cringe and scoff, and that's not even considering the additional business and production expenses of today, from regulations to raw material costs.

While I'm tempted to ignore the whole situation, and figure that people deserve the choice they've made, I do fear that at some point in the future, new tools are going to be the only available choice, and the few who care for quality over cheapness are going to have no options remaining.

Van Huskey

03-05-2010, 5:28 PM

\While I'm tempted to ignore the whole situation, and figure that people deserve the choice they've made, I do fear that at some point in the future, new tools are going to be the only available choice, and the few who care for quality over cheapness are going to have no options remaining.

The reality is there are plenty of new drill presses out there that are excellent, you don't think machine shops have NO quality choices do you? The bottom line is they are out of reach for the average woodworker just as they were 50 years ago. There are almost no items in this world you can't purchase made in a very high quality manner from a lightbulb to a submarine. The point is niches get filled just at a cost. For gosh sake you can buy a stereo tube (yes I said tube) amplifier and spend $100,000 and the tubes are built to standards much higher than even the Soviet Military ever had.

Look at this board for instance, most of us are looking for a lower cost "just as good" machine. Why do you think Grizzly is purported to be the largest machine importer. To echo what you said "WE" flocked to Grizzly and "forced" PM, Delta and General to reduce their level of quality to be able to sell product, then "WE" complain about it, funny since there are plenty of quality choices out there but time and time again people just buy good enough. Personally, I am wlling to pay 10-15K for my machines BUT not twice that, so I am in the good enough camp since I am one that prefers new since I want to work wood and not rehab old iron, which is a great hobby in itself just not one for me.

"We" have to either get off out checkbook or accept the quality that we are willing to pay for, BUT that doesn't mean not rewarding a company for delivering the best quality at a price point.

Pete Bova

03-05-2010, 8:03 PM

Called Delta today. They agreed that .013 is too much movement. They said it sounded like a bearing or fitment problem. I have to take the head to one of their authorized repair shops next week. I called and talked to one of their closer shops and the 'repairman' didn't understand what I was telling him. He had to call Delta and then call me back. Half an hour later he calls me and says that Delta told him there was an adjustment but it would not bring it much better than it already is. "Bring it down and we'll look at it" he says. I think I'll call the other shop and see what they say. I'll keep you informed as to what turns out. Pete

James Combs

03-05-2010, 11:04 PM

He is right there is an adjustment but it has only a marginal effect on quill play. The adjustment tightens up the bearings for the spindle but there is no adjustment for the quill bushings because there aren't any bushings or bearings for the quill just a line bored hole in the cast iron. (See my previous post above)

Half an hour later he calls me and says that Delta told him there was an adjustment but it would not bring it much better than it already is. "Bring it down and we'll look at it" he says. I think I'll call the other shop and see what they say. I'll keep you informed as to what turns out. Pete

Pete Bova

03-06-2010, 3:02 PM

OK, called the Delta main repair center in Wethersfield today and of course their closed. So, I decided to take apart my Craftsman 15" drill press (model 113.213151) and see where the problem lies. Having been a mechanic for more than 45 years and building my own street rods, I figure I'd take a shot. Taking it apart and putting it back together was really simple. After all the parts were on the table I took the quill and the pully spindle that it rides in and put them together. Man, talk about poor designing. The pully spindle is only grooved for the quill about 1/2 - 3/4" at the bottom (Wish I had taken pics. May have helped someone else). the rest of the tube, about 2.75" is just hollow. First thing I did was take a center punch and peened a dot in each of the raised groves in the pully spindle just enough to make the quill shaft slide a little snugger (is that really a word?). Then a took some tin flashing and cut it to 2 5/8" long and formed it around the quill. With some trial and error, I kept shortening the wrapping till everything fit snugly (there's that word again) and it didn't bind up. I then greased the heck out of the shaft and other places I knew would need it and proceeded to put it back together. While I had it apart, I cleaned up the groove in the side of the quill and the adjustment screw that goes to it (I think it keeps the quill from turning). After making sure everything was tight I lowered the quill assembly and put my dial indicater to it. I now have less then .002 front to back and almost .001 side to side movement.
I then chucked a bit into it, found a rather crappy piece of 2x4 and gave it a run. Even with the raised grain in the wood, I was able to drill exactly where I wanted to. No more kicking off to the side. Even drilled a piece of angle iron with out center puncing and it drilled right on the money.
Now what do I do with this press? Any way, thought I'd share this with you all.
P.S. In case your wondering, the shim doesn't spin. The shaft just raises up & down in the sleeve so it should hold for quite some time.

John Coloccia

03-06-2010, 4:22 PM

Paul Ryan

03-06-2010, 4:51 PM

For what it's worth, I just checked out one of the newer Powermatics at Woodcraft. It's tight as tight can be. The one I looked at was about $900. I didn't see a quill lock on it, though, but I may have just missed it.

John if you are looking for a drill press buy that one. I have checked 2 powermatics and they were as loose as my jet.

Van Huskey

03-06-2010, 6:57 PM

For what it's worth, I just checked out one of the newer Powermatics at Woodcraft. It's tight as tight can be. The one I looked at was about $900. I didn't see a quill lock on it, though, but I may have just missed it.

That would be the PM2800 most likely and I agree with Paul, if you want one buy THAT one or one you can also man handle to check.

John Coloccia

03-06-2010, 9:00 PM

Oh....that bad, eh? Oh well. I was hoping it was a bit more than just luck.

michael case

03-07-2010, 12:51 AM

Yeah got the Delta 17-950L three years ago. Sloppy as they come. The switch died too (shortly after the warranty expired of course). This thing was almost $500.00. Sorry it was not $150.00 then I would not complain. But for $500.00 they should have used a fair bushing. But they didn't. Delta used be a decent company. But it isn't

Pete Bova

03-08-2010, 9:23 PM

Mike O'Reilly

03-08-2010, 10:03 PM

I just bought a 17-950 and I am not sure how to check for runout. I do not have any tools to measure it. I did drill some test holes with a forstner bit and they were the same size as the bit without any ovaling or out of round shape to them. Any quick and dirty way to check for play?

Mike

Paul Ryan

03-09-2010, 10:31 AM

Paul, .060 is not exceptable. Some one at Jet is yanking your leg. I took mine to the Delta repair facility in Wethersfield today and the tech said they would get it a lot closer than it is now or they will replace everything until it is better. I told them how I fixed my Craftsman DP by shimming the top spindle and he said if they made the tollerances correct the first time, they wouldn't have to spend so much on repairing warranty's and may even be able to come down on the price to make it more affordable to more people. The companys seem to hope that people will accept the 'slop' as "normal". We, the consumers have to make sure that we "do not" accept these shabby parts as the norm. If everyone complained and kept complaining until it was fixed, maybe they would up their quality control.
Being on a fixed income, I expect to get what I paid for. If I bought something knowing it was, and I hate to use this word, 'junk', then I have to accept what I got. But when I pay out more for a tool than I make in a week, I want it to be the best it can be, and we all should feel the same way.
Sorry about the 'soapbox' but thats my stand. If Delta is saying .013 is not acceptable, then I would get Jet to rise to the same standards.

Pete,

Maybe we are measuring our drills differently. My drill when the quill is at rest, or up against a stop. Either the built in stops (fully retracted or fully extended) or setting the thumb screws to a stop. The drill then has very little run out, under .010. But when you move the quill off of a stop and hold the handle by yourself, then the quill is very very sloppy. Up to .060 when the quill is almost fully extended.

I am not happy with this one bit. When I initally discovered this I called jet talked over it with them. The suggested I take it to the local repair shop, 15 miles away. I took it there, the guy looked it over and called jet. Jet asked what is the run out when the quill is fully retracted, he has something like .008. They said that was totally acceptable no repairs were needed. The repair guy then asked why about the slop when the quill is moving or off the stops. Jet told him they have no specs for that, and wont do anything to fix it.

So I am struck with a POS drill press. In my infinite wisdom I bought the drill from, tool-zone. I saved $100 over buying it locally. But tool-zone wont take it back because according to jet it isn't broken. And if I just want my money back return shipping was outragous. So I am stuck with a drill press. I haven't called jet lately to complain, because I needed to cool off for a while. But I am not happy. I have 4 jet tools and have been happy with every one until now. My experience just tells me buy local, even if it costs more money.

Charles Krieger

03-09-2010, 2:53 PM

I'm amazed at the lack of quality in the drill presses reported on in this thread.
I have a 7 year old HF radial arm drill press that actually has worked very well for woodworking. I just measured the quill movement using a dial indicator against a drill center in the chuck. Measurement was made 1" below the chuck. It was .008" side to side and .006" front to back. Runout was .001". Compared to the others listed here I think my HF was a bargain at $179.00. The plus is that I can drill to the center of a 4' square piece of material. That said I have had to learn the weaknesses of the machine and how to compensate for them. (Quill trave is only 3", head rotates 2 degrees when the radial arm is tightened, zero indicators for head rotatation and table rotation not accurate, bad belt causing vibration, etc) I have not seen a radial arm drill press at HF for some time so I suspect they may have discontinued them but I'm glad I got one when I did as it has been a worthwhile tool.

Pete Bova

03-09-2010, 4:27 PM

I just got back from the Delta repair center where I dropped off the rest of the drill press.
A different tech called me this morning and said that they could not do anything for me and that if I wanted to live with the play, to come and get the head and bring it home.
He then said if I just bring the rest of the drill back, he would set me for a refund. Well, as I ranted yesterday, my money is not plentiful and as I had fixed my Craftsman, I gave it back to them.
Now I have to wait 4-6 weeks for a check in the mail.
I plan on sending Delta a 'nice' little letter about their quality control, or lack of, from a consumer that because I can't or don't need a $3000.00 drill press, I still should get something I can use and depend on for the moneys we spend on their products.
As to your other question about how I measured the play, here are some pics:

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac360/repeters1/DSC00043.jpg

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac360/repeters1/DSC00046.jpg

Pete Bova

03-14-2010, 12:00 AM

Go here for the pics on how I checked my quill play.
[/URL]
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac360/repeters1/Drill%20Press/DSC00043.jpg (http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac360/repeters1/Drill%20Press/DSC00043.jpg)

[URL]http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac360/repeters1/Drill%20Press/DSC00044.jpg

Van Huskey

03-14-2010, 12:27 AM

John if you are looking for a drill press buy that one. I have checked 2 powermatics and they were as loose as my jet.

I am out of town travelling and as usual I have made the rounds to every woodworking shop in the places I have been when there I have checked every drill press, I have only done it by "feel" but I have a good idea what loose and rock solid feel like, Of the 5 PM2800s 3 were rock solid, 7 Jets, 3 were solid, 1 Steel city solid, 5 Deltas 2 were solid. My opinion is you have about a 50% chance of getting a solid Asian import DP, so I would only buy one IF I could either check it before hand or have full exchage without shipping. BTW all of them were check at full extension except the SC which was check at about 5 inches, the store had a big box under the table so I couldn't get the table any lower but 5 inches is more travel than most have and most people ever use.

Nate Folco

03-16-2010, 4:53 PM

For what it's worth you should check runout from a known straight rod chucked. The outside of chucks may not me machined to the same level as the parts that are doing the work. You can also take the chuck off and measure directly off the spindle taper to remove any possibility that the chuck itself is adding to the runout.

Tamara White

01-24-2022, 3:44 PM

Pete Bova, we have a craftsman too! 113.213151. Just ran into a problem and hoping you might be able to help. The motor is working fine, the handle turns but the drill won't lower properly, it lowers some but then springs right back up, and the minute it hits the wood, it won't lower any more at all. It's like something isn't catching right. It was working fine and then we used it on some metal and it made a bad noise and now this is the problem. We are going to take it apart and see if there is something broken. Any ideas what to look for? Thanks!

OK, called the Delta main repair center in Wethersfield today and of course their closed. So, I decided to take apart my Craftsman 15" drill press (model 113.213151) and see where the problem lies. Having been a mechanic for more than 45 years and building my own street rods, I figure I'd take a shot. Taking it apart and putting it back together was really simple. After all the parts were on the table I took the quill and the pully spindle that it rides in and put them together. Man, talk about poor designing. The pully spindle is only grooved for the quill about 1/2 - 3/4" at the bottom (Wish I had taken pics. May have helped someone else). the rest of the tube, about 2.75" is just hollow. First thing I did was take a center punch and peened a dot in each of the raised groves in the pully spindle just enough to make the quill shaft slide a little snugger (is that really a word?). Then a took some tin flashing and cut it to 2 5/8" long and formed it around the quill. With some trial and error, I kept shortening the wrapping till everything fit snugly (there's that word again) and it didn't bind up. I then greased the heck out of the shaft and other places I knew would need it and proceeded to put it back together. While I had it apart, I cleaned up the groove in the side of the quill and the adjustment screw that goes to it (I think it keeps the quill from turning). After making sure everything was tight I lowered the quill assembly and put my dial indicater to it. I now have less then .002 front to back and almost .001 side to side movement.
I then chucked a bit into it, found a rather crappy piece of 2x4 and gave it a run. Even with the raised grain in the wood, I was able to drill exactly where I wanted to. No more kicking off to the side. Even drilled a piece of angle iron with out center puncing and it drilled right on the money.
Now what do I do with this press? Any way, thought I'd share this with you all.
P.S. In case your wondering, the shim doesn't spin. The shaft just raises up & down in the sleeve so it should hold for quite some time.