Nicked? jointer blades

[Brian Runau]

Just started using my Grizzly G0586 and I have run less than 25 bd ft of stock and I have a nick? in a blade. No nails etc. When I look at the pattern on the wood, it looks like there are 2 definite starts and stops to the area of the board about 2 inches wide almost where the blade is higher and leaving a deeper cut between the raised ends. Ends of this deeper cut are prominent you can see and feel the depth change.

I can understand a nick, but how is it possible for a portion of an 8" wide blade to cut deeper?

Thanks for any and all input.

Brian

[Paul Ryan]

Brian,

Sounds to me what you are describing is "snipe". If I am understanding you correctly this is only at the front about 2" in and at the end of the board about 2" from the end.

Make sure your tables are flat with each other and the cutter head is flat with the beds. I have never delt with snipe on a jointer. Hopefully others will chime in and help you fix it. Planer snipe it more common and usually occurs when the outfeed and infeed tables aren't properly adjusted to the planer bed.

[Howard Acheson]

Yes, as Paul said, you are describing "snipe". If you measure from the end or beginning of the board I bet you will find that is the same dimension as from the center of the cutterhead to the beginning of the outfeed table.

The primary reason for snipe on a jointer is that the outfeed table is not exactly parallel with the knives when a knife is at top dead center. Go through an alignment process and you should eliminate or greatly reduce the snipe.

[Paul Atkins]

That description is a bit confusing, could you show a picture?

[Chip Lindley]

Lacking photo evidence at this point, visualize knife nicks as leaving a raised "bead" on the wood surface which runs the length of the board, end to end. The "bead" corresponds exactly to a mirror image of the nick out of the jointer knives. shifting a knife to the left or right, just a fraction of an inch, will cure this until the knives can be resharpened or replaced.

Snipe would be leaving a depressed area at the last inch or two, of the board end, going from side to side across the board width. The cure for snipe, as mentioned above, is readjustment of the outfeed table.

[Brian Runau]

marks run the length of the board parallel. From the feel it is almost like it is a deeper cut in between the two marks. Can't be though. I will move blades for the learning exercise. I have a spare set, but can't believe they got a mark in them this quick.

Thank you for your help.

Brian

[Myk Rian]

Believe it. Happens very easily.

[kenneth kayser]

marks run the length of the board parallel. From the feel it is almost like it is a deeper cut in between the two marks. Can't be though. I will move blades for the learning exercise. I have a spare set, but can't believe they got a mark in them this quick.

Thank you for your help.

Brian

Before you do that, run your thumbnail over the sharp edges, if you feel nicks, that's it. Unless the nicks are deep, just leave them. They will come back soon, anyway. When doing edges, just avoid them. The ridges can be easily removed by sanding or planing.