Kitchen Cabinet Repair Ideas Needed

[Steve Friedman]

This may seem like a stupid project,but after 25 years of hanging in my kitchen, the upper cabinets (no soffit) are leaning away from the walls, leaving a tapered gap that is almost 1" at the top. These are typical mid-80s builder-installed cabinets, with laminated particleboard sides and back panels, but they need to last for a few more years.

As if the leaning wasn't enough, the backs of the cabinets decided to remain flush, and well-secured, to the wall. So, only the sides and fronts of the cabinets are really leaning. But, when the sides separated from the backs, the cabinets were left without enough support to keep them rectangular. As a result, the sides started to splay out diagonally.

Luckily, the sides and fronts of the cabinets are about 1" higher than the cabinet tops, so I was able to hide 1 x 2 blocking at the top of the cabinets. Then, I created an elaborate network of vinyl coated cable, eye hooks, and turnbuckles to reverse a lot of of the splaying. The rigging looks scary, but it's hidden. Unfortunately, it did nothing to correct the leaning.

I know that I should remove, repair, and replace the cabinets, but am concerned that the particleboard and wood are so warped that I'll never be able to reassemble the cabinets. The last thing I want to do is make the problem any worse. After all, the cabinets are still hanging and aren't leaning enough to make anything fall out - yet.

Thanks for any ideas.

Steve

[Van Huskey]

Can you put a cleat in the back corners of the cabinets and glue/screw them to the back and sides of each cabinet. You would have to notch the shelves but if I understand the problem correctly it might just work. Snce the back is stll vertical I would connect it to the back then push the sides against the back and attach it there, might have to just be screws and would be a 2 person job(or 3 depending on how much pressure it takes to push the cabinet back).

[Jack Wilson]

As I understand it you CAN get above the cabinet, right? So what stops you from either running some longer screws through the upper rear portion into the studs, or putting some furring strip up there and running some screws through that and the upper rear portion? Post a picture showing the problem.

Jack

[Van Huskey]

I agree that posting a picture could really help.

[joe milana]

Um...how 'bout more rigging? Going from the inside of the top rail to the wall, pulling the top of the cabinet tight to the wall. (reminds me of a WWI airplane.:cool:)

[Steve Clardy]

Those sound like the multi use cabs that can be mounted either way vertically. Top and bottom are the same.

Sound like they did not glue and nail the backs in properly.
There is usually no nailer board inside to fasten the cabs with, just the 1/4" back.

Sounds like you really need to pull them down and reattach the cab backs. Then put a nailer board inside the cabinet for a place to screw the cabs back to the wall.

[Dave Sharpe]

hows'abut cuttin some lengths of 2x4 (maybe try pressure treated just for effect) and proppin em up from the kitchen counter surface or even the floor?

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks for all the feedback. I have attached pictures. This is a three-cabinet section. The 1st picture shows the rigging. It also shows that the cabinet is pulling the sheetrock off the wall. The 2nd & 3rd pictures show the gap. The last picture shows the gap corner from the top.

Van, a cleat in the inside corners sounds promising, but remember that the sides are only 3/8" particleboard. (The back is actually two sheets of 3/8" particleboard) Also, I can't screw from the outside, because the screws will show. Even if I could, I am concerned that the screws attaching the cleats to the side of the cabinet would not withstand the stress of the cabinet wanting to lean away from the wall. Maybe that would be solved with glue.

Joe, rigging the whole thing to the wall with turnbuckles isn't quite as wacky as it may seem as long as I can keep it hidden from view. My only comment is that I may never get these cabinets to sit up straight without replacing the warped particleboard. You can see how bad the warping is in the last picture. It was just as bad elsewhere, but I used the 2x2 blocking in an attempt to straigten it out.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Steve, I do not see any pictures attached....

[Steve Friedman]

Let me try those pictures again

[Van Huskey]

OK, I see the problem with the particle board. How about this epoxy a metal L braket that comes out the full depth of the cabinet, once the glue is cured push the cabinet back and screw the back part of the bracket to the wall. Stud placement could definately be an issue though. The more I look at it the more I thnk they are gonna have to come down for a fix that is gonna last years.

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks Van.

I knew that the back was warped, but until taking the pictures, never realized how bad it was. I think you're right because the warped back will make it impossible to ever get the cabinets flush with the wall.

Is there any good way to straighten warped particleboard? Does steam work?

As you can see, I used 1x1s to straighten the warping on about 2/3 of the cabinets, but the warping was not as bad. My only thought is to continue that technique to try to straighten the remaining warped section. Maybe if I put up the 1x1s, but only tighten the screws a little bit every few days - kind of like coaxing out the warp very gently over the course of a couple of weeks?

I really like the idea of using epoxy to attach the particleboard to something solid so that I can securely attach the particleboard to the wall.

Thanks again

[Jack Wilson]

First of all, you NEED new cabinets. With that said, it looks like what Joe Milana suggested is a pretty good idea. Rigging w/turnbuckles that grab the face frame and run back into studs. This would solve the drywall that's pulling away as well as bring the sides into alignment. You could use a polyurethane construction adhesive, (PL has it in quart tubes, not sure about smaller 10 oz. sizes), and clamps to glue a another cleat inside the upper face frame to give yourself more meat to bite into with an eye hook to pull on, (if all that makes sense).

Jack

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I'd make your 2x2 frames about 3/4" short of the back, with some additional front to back intermediate pieces. Glue them in place with construction adhesive, leaving the gap at the back. Make sure they are glued well to the cabinet sides, and don't glue the back, as it might prevent it from being straightened. Wait a few days, and screw the back 2x2 into the studs. Should pull the entire top of the cabinet back to the wall.

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks Jack! Yes, your suggestion does make sense. Just two questions.

1. Do I run the turnbuckle rigging through the back of the cabinet (ckeeping the rigging parallel to the top of the cabinet) or do I attach it to the wall above the cabinet (as a slight angle)? Assuming it is still hidden, would that slight angle help draw the cabinet back toward the wall?

2. I'm not exactly sure what you meant by using glue and clamps to attach another cleat inside the upper face frame. I did attach 1x1s to the upper face frame for the rigging. Do you mean something more?

Thanks,

Steve

[Steve Friedman]

Gerry, that's brilliant! Actually, they are only 1x1s, but I never thought about the fact that failing to leave a gap between the frame and the back would prevent the cabinet from being pulled back. Duh!

I also never though of the 1x1s as a frame of sorts. Different perspective. That's makes perfect sense.

I love Sawmill Creek!

Steve
.

[Steve Friedman]

Gerry, that's brilliant! Actually, they are only 1x1s, but I never thought about the fact that failing to leave a gap between the frame and the back would prevent the cabinet from being pulled back. Duh!

I also never though of the 1x1s as a frame of sorts. Different perspective. That's makes perfect sense.

I love Sawmill Creek!

Steve
.

[Jack Wilson]

Hello Steve, I've been out ALL day. You may have already done this, but what I meant was that the face frame is most likely 3/4" hardwood, to make it thicker, say 1.5" glue and clamp another 1x2 or what ever fits to the inside of it on the upper section where you will be working. When the adhesive dries remove the clamps and install your eye bolts into the wall studs and into the NOW 1.5" of face frame. Then install cables and turnbuckles, they should be perpendicular, (or square), to the face frame to pull it straight back to the wall.

As far as a slight angle, hmmm... not sure that's bad, but it might lift the front as it draws back. Is that something you want it, or need it to do?

Jack

[Steve Friedman]

That's what I thought. Thanks again

Steve

[Steve Griffin]

Looks like you should build some new cabinets to me. But, in these tough times, I understand how it's not always possible to do things right.

My main comment would be make sure that these cabinets are safe. If in doubt, carefully grab them and give them a bouncing jerk with all your body weight. Better to rip one off the wall while trying, than to have one come down when not expected.

-Steve

[Steve Friedman]

Scary thought! The only reason I want to fix them is because I assumed they would fall down at some point. I never thought about the possibility that it could happen while someone was standing next to them. That would leave a mark!

Thanks for the reality check.

Steve