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Mike Cruz
01-21-2010, 8:39 PM
Well, this post has been a long time acommin'.

Some of you may or may not remeber a post of mine in D&D about a Grizzly Sliding TS about a month ago. Because of the low price, the consensus was that it was a scam. One person even point out that the seller even advertised an 18" Grizzly BS for $100. Just for S's and G's, I emailed the seller about the BS. He responded promptly and gave me his number. I called and set up a date to go see it. When I showed up, there it was, a 20 year old BS for $100. And I probably could have talked him down a few bucks, but was happy enough to find it, so I drove away with my new toy.

It did need some TLC. I ended up spending about $100 extra in parts etc. It needed a new switch. I didn't get the original magnetic switch. Couldn't justify that much for this saw, so I got the under $15 switch. Unfortunately, it isn't made to be put in a box (rather flush mounted) so I had to find a suitable box at HD, and put 4 layers of receptacle insulation pads on it to make it all fit.

I got two new trunions (I bent one trying to straighten it out), 4 new trunion plastic slidy things (two for now, and two extras), two new trunion bolts, two new belts, throat collar, rear bearing guides (plus some extras), etc.

Two major issues with the BS. Apparently, it had fallen forward at some time in its 20 years, because I noticed that both feet (where the cast iron meets the sheet metal base) were cracked. I got a friend of a friend to come weld them. PERFECT! And he didn't want any money...just some beer. I underestimated how long this would take and only got him an 18 pack of Coors light. He didn't complain. On the first foot, he started grinding it to make it look better and I stopped him. I didn't need it to look pretty, just hold. So the second one is a simple weld...no clean up. A can of primer and a can of paint from HD (nice color match, huh?) and she's right as rain.

The other major issue, was that the guide assembly didn't line up properly. In order to get the blade between the roller guides, I had to twist the guide assembly to the right. Great, the blade is between the guides but now twisted. Now way that would cut straight. You may or may not remember a thread I started asking how/where I could get a 1" guide post turned down to 7/8". Well, that is because Grizzly no longer has replacement guide assemblies for this 20 year old saw. But they do have the 7/8" ones. So, I ordered one of those. Same problem. My solution? Cut the guide assembly, and have it welded back together. I cut it with a hack saw and called my welder. I gave him a 30 pack this time...to help make up for under "paying'' him last time. PERFECT!

I ended up building a makeshift mobile stand that I could bolt the BS to out of plywood I had laying around, and 3 casters I've had for years. The two stabilizers were extras that I had. All I had to buy was the metal pieces for the stabilizers to fit into. I needed this MB because the sheet metal stand is a bit rickety. Not because of age, but because of design.

Because she took a header, I think the lower cast iron piece is a little bent. So, I did have to shim here and there to get her aligned properly. But it all worked out in the end.

I got a couple of Timberwolf blades from Suffolk. The saw works great!

$200 for a dedicated resaw BS. Now I don't have to worry about changing blades on my 14" Ridgid.

Mike Cruz
01-21-2010, 8:40 PM
Here are a few more pics.

Paul Ryan
01-21-2010, 9:23 PM
Heck of a deal Mike,

How many HP is the saw and how long are the blades?

John Shaffner
01-21-2010, 9:26 PM
Nice gloat, Mike. Right on the heals of mine....never "saw" it comin'.;) I had the choice of a Ridgid, but I chose Rockie. She was more experienced.

John

Joseph Tarantino
01-21-2010, 9:45 PM
nicely done. i always find that the tolls i pick up as a deal always seem to work better. good luck with your find. btw, your mobile base is interesting as i need a better one for my 18" jet. the htc1000 that came with it is woefully inadequate. any info you can provide about how you did it would be appreciated as i search out a better solution than the rickety bases available commercially. thanks.

Mike Cruz
01-21-2010, 11:45 PM
Paul, it is a 2 HP and the blade length is 124". What I don't LOVE about this BS, is that the resaw capacity is about 10". Not horrible, but my Ridgid with the riser kit is 12"...

Chris Nolin
01-22-2010, 12:00 AM
I think that saw is actually very pretty! Nice lines. And the price...wow. I could take some lessons from you on finding good bargains! I don't even think you suck, since you worked so hard to make it all happen!

Mike Cruz
01-22-2010, 12:04 AM
Joseph, let me see if I can describe what I did.

The main part of the base is two layers of 3/4" ply (the vertical frame). It is square. I didn't do a simple butt joint, but slightly modified. Imagine that the ply was 1 1/2" thick and I rabbeted all four sides. However, on the back side of the mobile base (the side to the left of the saw) the outside 3/4" piece runs the entire length of the back.

There are two wheels on the back side (to the left of the saw). They are in those square sections jutting out from the main part of the base. IF I had used fixed (as opposed to swivel) wheels, those boxes could have been smaller. But all I had was swivel wheels, so they needed an inside diameter of 6" square.

There is one wheel in the front (right side of the saw). Obviously, that one needed to be swivel. So it is the same size (6" square inside diameter).

I would have used one piece of ply across the top, but didn't have scrap that big.

Here's the tricky part. A three legged (or wheeled) base would not be stable, so on the front, you need two stability feet. I happened to have a couple, so I used them. For the metal pieces that support them, I went to Lowes (not HD, HD didn't have exactly what I wanted) and got what I believe is called a tie strip. It is a strip of metal about an 1/8" thick that has predrilled holes in it. The reason I got mine at Lowes, is that theirs is 8 inches long and has 6 holes, all in the MIDDLE of the strip. HD's strip had holes that zig zagged down it. So the Lowes one's last hole just needed to be enlargened. The HD one's last hole was off to the side and would have been wierd to drill out. I bought one of these 8" strips and cut it in half. One for each foot.

Now, this base is not meant to be moved often. What I mean by that is that to move it, you need to get down on the floor, relieve the feet (with a wrench on the nut), then push it around. Unlike most "modern" mobile bases, there is no foot pedal that lifts it up and plops it down in place. I don't plan to move this often but didn't want it to be a total chore to move it when I needed to.

If that didn't explain it well enough, or you have any other questions, fire away!

Steve Clardy
01-22-2010, 1:38 PM
Nice haul...

Paul Johnstone
01-22-2010, 1:59 PM
Nice job rehabbing the saw. Interesting read. Glad it worked out so well for you.

Mike Cruz
01-23-2010, 12:44 AM
Thanks, Paul (and the rest of you guys). Interesting story about the story...

I wrote it all out, then went to add the pics. When I closed the My Pictures window, I inadvertantly closed IE, too. All lost. I had to type it all out again. Funny how the main story is the same, but it came out a bit differently the second time around. With that, I'm sure that there were some things I DID on the saw that I put in the first version, and THOUGHT I put in the second, but didn't...

Marty Paulus
01-23-2010, 6:52 AM
When I have a long response or a long email to write I tend to open MS Word and type in that program. That way my horrible spelling doesn't show as spell check is automatic. From there I just cut and paste into the email.

Charles Cannon
01-23-2010, 1:29 PM
Mike
It looks a lot like my G1012. I got this one a few years ago to replace a 12 inch craftsman but still use the craftsman most of the time. The issues with mine have been; if I raise the guide bar it changes the clearances on the blade, the blade guard by the switch rattles the wheel alignment changes a little when I tighten the blade and I can't figure out how to remove the fence without taking the blade off. I have a manual for mine if you need any part numbers.
Cannon

Charles Cannon
01-23-2010, 1:33 PM
Mine also has a 3 speed pully system.
Cannon

Mike Cruz
01-23-2010, 3:19 PM
Yup, she's a G1012 alright. I've already downloaded the manual, so I'm good there. Thanks for the offer, though.

Because of my makeshift switch/box, it sits really tight up against the left blade guard. So...no rattle.

I did, however, get rattle from the pully guard in the back. A couple of pieces of thick sticky tape did the trick.

I don't have the fence (yet...thinking of ordering one from Grizzly). So, I guess what you are saying is that the fence attaches by sliding it on from the right side? Hmmmm, that would be difficult if you wanted it one the left...

I may have been a little more picky about some things on this saw if I had bought it new and had all these glitches, but as a used 20 y.o. saw for $200 to have her up to snuff, I'm pleasantly surprised.

My biggest concern right now is vibration. To be more specific, the whole saw "wobbles". I have narrowed the cause down to the top sheet of sheet metal on the base. Not nearly strudy enough for a top heavy machine. I think I came up with a solution for it. Will try to fix it tonight. If I succeed, you'll see a post about it in the General section. ;)

Oh, and yes it has three speeds, but I plan to keep it on its fastest speed for proper resawing.

Chip Lindley
01-23-2010, 3:45 PM
Congrats Mike! Always nice to see a machine fixed up to operate again! Especially for $hort Money.

Call me O.C.D., but I believe it would well be worth another 30 pack to let your friend grind down those welding joints! May help lots at resell time after you find an even bigger, better gloat which resaws taller than 10".

Mike Cruz
01-23-2010, 5:44 PM
Hehe. I thought of that, too. But when/if it comes time for resale, I want to make sure the buyer doesn't think I am pulling a fast one. To be honest, unless it had happened to you before and you were looking for it, I don't think you'd notice it...even with the weld line.

As for the OCD persective...yeah, I want it ground out, too...:D

Chip Lindley
01-24-2010, 11:14 PM
I was not suggesting camoflage of repairs. That would require much more effort than just grinding down a weld. I was suggesting a more workmanship-like cleaning up of welding repairs. Those aren't weld lines. Those are big blobs of nickel. Just my .02.

Mike Cruz
01-25-2010, 10:13 AM
Understood. I assumed you weren't talking about hiding the repair and not notifying the potential buyer. You have a good point about the aesthetics aspect. Maybe if I get a bug in a dark place, I may work it out later. Right now...WAY to many other things I need to be doing ON my shop... like insulation!