Dovetails made easier

[Derek Cohen]

Here are a few strategies for producing tight dovetails. Add your own.

Marking out with a scale. This makes it easier to adjust the spacing.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Marking.jpg

Sawing square is the key to tight fitting dovetails. Ganging up boards makes this easier to do.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Gangsawingtwothinboards.jpg

I saw the tails first. The accuracy in sawing these angles is not critical - it is matching these saw cuts to the pins that is critical. Using a dovetail angle marker helps in this regard - not vital, but it does make it easier to replicate angles.

Dovetail markers also allow one to experiment with different angle ratios. I think that the angle does not make a lot of difference to drawer strength. On the other hand, a wider or narrower dovetail can enhance the aesthetic look. I tend to go for a higher ration (1.5) on thin boards and a lower ratio (1.7 or 1.8) on wide boards.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Marking%20and%20Measuring/Dovetailmarkersinbrass_html_48e46b7.jpg

Starting a saw cut with the saw raised effectively lowers the rake of the teeth and makes for easier starting. Aim to follow two lines similtaneously (e.g. the angled and the horizontal lines).

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/TheVeritas20ppiDovetailSaw_html_m654f2955.jpg

Aim to make your saw cuts as close to the knife line as possible. The tighter your sawing, the less need for paring, and the less chance of errors creeping in. To achieve such close tolerances, use a chisel to chamfer a fence for your saw.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/chiselingfence.jpg

Before removing any waste, take the time to mark out which areas are to be removed. If you look carefully at the through dovetail end of the drawer above, you will see a cut into the tail! I caught myself just in time. Dang spatial difficulties!


I prefer to remove waste with a fretsaw/jeweller's saw than chop it out. A recommendation made to me was to add a twist to the blade so that you do not experience the limitation I show here of how deep into a board a standard fretsaw can cut.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Removewastewithfretsaw.jpg

When paring the waste, place the board side-on. This will more easily allow you to see whether you are not holding the chisel over the vertical line . Aim for a slight undercut for a tight fit at the baseline.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Pareside-onforvertical1.jpg

If you find it difficult to judge vertical, then place a square alongside the chisel.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Pareside-onforvertical2.jpg

If you need to chop out waste in hardwood, a guide fence can aid in maintaining even baselines. Note that this is not a vital tool – practice makes one unnecessary. However these are excellent jigs.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Choppinghardwood.jpg

When transferring tails to pins, many use a handplane to rest the tail board. I find that this can easily cause the board to move, which will affect the accuracy of the marking. Accurate marking is all-important for accurate sawing.

I made a “Rest Block” out of pine scrap onto which I glued 240 grit sandpaper (on two opposite sides – one as a non-slip for the board, and the other as a non-slip for the bench).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Restblockcombo.jpg

Always transfer marks with a knife. For tight tails you will need a thin bladed knife.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Thinbladefornarrowdovetails.jpg

Prior to joining the boards pare a chamfer on the backs of the tails before wacking them into the pins. This takes two seconds to do and makes the join a smoother process.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Chamferbacksoftails.jpg

When joining boards, especially when they are hardwood, add a clamp to the pin board to prevent the ends splitting. I close up gaps with a wedge-shaped block.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Joiningboardscombo.jpg

Plan the grain direction so that you are able to plane away from the edge of the face board.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Dovetail%20Cabinet/Drawers/Lastlap-dovetails1.jpg

Here is a recent drawer I built. These dovetails all went saw cut to saw cut …

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Drawer.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

A close-up of the through dovetails …

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Dovetail%20Cabinet/Drawers/Lastlap-dovetails4.jpg

And a close-up of the half blind dovetails …

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Dovetail%20Cabinet/Drawers/Lastlap-dovetails3.jpg

Happy dovetailing!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tri Hoang]

Thanks for the tips. Very nice work and awesome pics, Derek.

I am not quite experience but I found that the first critical task is to saw the tails SQUARE to the face. The angle can be off a bit but not the squareness. It requires some practice but not as much as one might think.

Secondly, the transferring of the tail-to-pin positions. A sharp marking knife and exactness is critical.

Nothing beats practical experience. Prepare two boards and practice cutting tails/pins and test for fit. When done, just saw the ends off, shoot the edges, and have them ready for the next practice session. One can probably cut serviceable dovetails after about 10-12 sessions...

[Bob Glenn]

Thanks, Derek, I've done a few dove tailed projects, but I am planning to build a Pennsylvania Secretary and from the looks of the plans, I'll be dove tailing for the next couple years on the project. Over two hundred pieces to be joined in the project.

[glenn bradley]

Great tutorial Derek. Thanks for taking the time to share. I always wonder why the other 73 people who took the time to look, didn't take the time to comment(?).

[Don Rogers]

Thanks Derek. This one is a keeper for me. I have yet to try my hand at dovetails.

DonR

[Conrad Fiore]

Derek,
I like the "rest block" and plan on making one up.

[Marco Cecala]

Thanks for the great advice Derek. I like the approach and the things you talk about make sense. I am going to put them to practice in my work.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

As always, a great job by Derek who enjoys sharing his knowledge.

[Mark Roderick]

Excellent, as always.

[Michael Peet]

Thanks Derek. I use a hardwood guide to chop out the tail and pin waste. A bit of sandpaper folded in half placed between the guide and the workpiece prevents slippage.

Can you provide anymore information on twisting the fretsaw blade? I run into that limitation all the time. Is there any particular technique to prevent the blade from breaking?

Here's another tip: don't use your marking knife as a skew chisel to clean out the half-blinds or you could snap the tip off. DAMHIKT. Anyone want a lightly used Hock marking knife? :o

Mike

[Rick Prosser]

I am new to fine woodworking, but dove tails are on the list. Thanks for a great step-by-step.

[Jeff Considine]

as always, a fine job documenting your process, and very helpful. I'm at the bottom of the learning curve with dovetails, but each one of these tutorials takes me a step, or several, in the right direction.

First few attempts had gaps I could park my pick-up in, but I'm looking forward to using some of your ideas to improve on that.

Thanks again.

[David Gendron]

Again Derek, it is a plesure to read your posts. great tutorial and lovely work!

[Roy Wall]

Can you provide anymore information on twisting the fretsaw blade? I run into that limitation all the time. Is there any particular technique to prevent the blade from breaking?

Mike

No particular technique....
Just attach the blade in normal fashion, teeth straight down.....and tension up the blade as much as possible.
Then, take a pair of pliers (maybe needle nose) and TWIST the two ends of the blade about 30* or so. Now the blade angles. So when you are cutting, and the blade is HORIZONTAL cutting across the board, the saw itself is angled 'up and over' the pin board. Pretty much needed on boards 4" + and wider.

Nice DT's Derek!!

[Joe Cunningham]

Where's the cheese? And the stop watch? :)

Great tutorial, I like the 'rest block' idea, will have to add that to my arsenal.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for the tips. My next quick project will be to make the rest block or maybe two.

For the fret saw, I got lucky. One of mine can hold a blade at different angles without having to bend it.

One question is when you say under cut the line, do you mean angle in a little of to leave a little above the line?

jim

[Dan Andrews]

Just the tutoial I need. Started cutting dovetails last summer and have not gotten one truely good fit yet. Your practical suggestions will definately help to close up those gaps. Thanks:D

[Paul Incognito]

Thanks Derek. That's an excellent step by step guide.
Question: Are the dovetail markers something you made, or can I buy a set? I thought I saw them at a woodworking store a while back, but haven't seen them recently.
PI

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Derek. That's an excellent step by step guide.
Question: Are the dovetail markers something you made, or can I buy a set? I thought I saw them at a woodworking store a while back, but haven't seen them recently.
PI

Hi Paul

I made these dovetail markers (sold a few about a year or so ago - I had made up a batch at the time when making my own, but they are very time consuming to too, too much so for fun).

I do have a tutorial on making them on my website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Dovetailmarkersinbrass.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Paul Incognito]

Wow Derek, you have some talent.
Thanks for the link, I see a few tools you've made that I'd like to give a try, including the dovetail markers.
PI

[Steve Marcq]

I cut tails first also, and as said previously the tail cut needs to be perfectly square, whereas the individual angles don't matter too much, the pins are made to match anyway. I will often run my saw against an engineer's square held tight to the line for the first few strokes to ensure the tail is cut square across the end grain. I've ground all the set off my saw, so there is no damage to the square. I can follow the end and face lines fine without the crutch mind you, having cut thousands by this point, but find it increases my speed and I don't have to give it my full attention. The pin cuts have to be perfect, of course.

Steve

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Thanks for the tips! I especially like the paring of the back of the tails. I found this very helpful.
Thanks to you here are my first successful dovetails in maple:http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131499