Glue-Longest working time??

[Jerry Olexa]

Getting ready to plunge into a fairly elaborate (I think) glue-up job. It involves, angles, curves, raised panels, rail and style and will probably use band clamps as well as bar clamps. Its also a pretty big piece Approx 4' X 7'. What glue has the longest "working time"? I usually use Titebond and understand the #3 has the longest work/set up time but hear the hide glues are even longer. This will give me time to correct my inevitable "mistakes". What should I use? Thanks to all...

[Chris Padilla]

Jerry, no direct help here as I can't remember the name but Michael Perata just brought over some 2-part glue that has like an hour open time. Dennis Peacock might remember what it is called.

Saving that, polyurethane glue, while messy, has a decent open time.

Also, there are all kinds of epoxies that have long open times.

I, too, have a complicated glue-up looming in the distance.

[Don Abele]

Jerry, glues that have the longest open time fall into two categories: Urea-Formaldehyde and Resorcinol Glues. Specifically, I use Unibond 800 (a urea glue) which has an open time of about an hour depending on how you mix it (it's a 2-part glue). This is what I use for veneering. There are many others out there. DAP makes a glue called Weldwood that's a resorcinol glue (though I've never used it personally).

On the lower side, white PVA glue (plain ol' elmer's glue) has about a 30 minute open time. Sanding can be difficult because it heats up and "melts" gumming up sandpaper quickly.

I'd go to your local supplier of glues and check the open time for what they have on their shelf. I'm sure the borg's have to carry a slow-set variant of wood glue in some brand or another.

Be well,

Doc

[Bob Smalser]

UF Plastic Resin is the best glue for your job, IMO.

Jamestown Distributors and Ace Hardware....a powder mixed with water. Shelf life one year unmixed. Sands well, brown glueline, moderate to heavy clamping pressure, won't creep, water resistant, can be glued over in repairs.

Resorcinol requires 70 degree temperatures, lots of clamping pressure and leaved a dark glueline.

[Roger Bell]

For a quick comparason of common glues, go to the Lee Valley Catalog. They have a table showing various characteristics, including open time, of the glues they sell.

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks guys. I'm learning. Woodcraft here has a liquid hide glue w a 1 Hour work time that is a possibility. This is one project where I won't use Titebond even the III. I think its still max 30 minutes. I'm still concerned over the "holding power" of these new (to me) glues vs my old reliable Titebond. Thanks for your ideas/ suggestions....

[Jamie Buxton]

Thanks guys. I'm learning. Woodcraft here has a liquid hide glue w a 1 Hour work time that is a possibility. This is one project where I won't use Titebond even the III. I think its still max 30 minutes. I'm still concerned over the "holding power" of these new (to me) glues vs my old reliable Titebond. Thanks for your ideas/ suggestions....

Do try some test pieces with that premixed hide glue before you tackle the real piece of furniture. I find that it behaves different from PVA during glue-up. It takes more pressure to get it to squeeze out of butt joints. Also, because liquid hide takes so long to set, glue-ups can slide around long after you turn your back on them.

If you do go for urea-formaldehyde, pay attention to the temperature issue. Unlike PVA, the curing time on urea-formaldehyde is a big function of temperature. The one I use, Unibond 800, cures in one hour at 90 degrees, and takes 5 hours at 70 degrees. It really doesn't cure properly below 65 degrees. Other urea-formaldehyde brands are similar.

[Ron Schweitzer]

Jerry,
I'm not sure if this would work but when it's warm glue sets faster, also if the wood is drier the glue has less working time. Where you live it's getting colder, and a little moisture on the joints shouldn't hurt. Try some experiments in a cooler shop with a little moisture in the joints to see if that can lengthen work time. After it is clamped you can move the project to a warmer area or raise the heat.
Just a quick thought, I have been wrong before.
Ron

[Jerry Olexa]

Ron, the fellow @ Woodcraft also reco'd that I moisten the joints which should provide extra work/set time. I bought some Titebond EXTEND and liq hide glue and 3 band clamps there. I'll do a dry fit, cross fingers and plunge in...Thanks.:)

[Alan Turner]

Jerry,
Not sure what it is you are gluing up, but the Unibond 800 is an excellent adhesive. Dries brittle, so no creep, and can be dyed to match a color, otherwise it is a soft yellow/tan. West makes an epoxy with a long open time, depending upon temperature, but put it in a pie tin and not a cup to extend the open time. Also, adding about 10 - 20% of urea to hot hide glue extends the open time a bunch, and it is easily cleanable, and reversible. I usually have all three around, and all work well. I am especially partial to hide glue.
Alan

[Jerry Olexa]

Project is a cherry headboard composed of rail and style, raised panels, curves and angles. Good looking but challenging to glue. Thanx for your ideas so far. The BLO is curing so I have another day or 2.