Recent work and advise request

[John Szarek]

http://www.penturners.org/forum/albums/Doghouse/Spalted%20walnut%20vase.jpg

This is out of spalted black walnut. I thought the grain was amaizing and wanted to share.

I am having a problem with end grain. No mater how sharp or how careful I am I end up with a fair amount of tearout on the end grain. So I have to go for the 60 grit gouge. I have not been turning all that long, so I know I have a ways to go on my technique. Is there any helpful hints that can be given to decrease end grain problems? It happens most with green wood but also to a lesser degree on dried woods.

[Jim Becker]

Can you be more specific about your issues with end-grain? Are you refering to hollowing? Are you trying to use a gouge for that rather than scraper-based hollowing tools? Are you using a shearing finishing cut on the exterior with an Irish/Ellsworth type gouge?

[John Szarek]

Thanks for the questions.

I hollow using the Kelton system, then my bowl gouge, finaly scrape it.

What do you mean by shearing finishing cut? I have been trying to make the fingernail grind on one of my gouges, but end up making a shorter tool. (Glad I am practicing sharpening on HF gouges rather than my good ones)

[Jim Becker]

You should be able to completely hollow with your Kelton system, including the final shear scraping cuts. Sharpening is the key and a light touch, which is a little harder if you are hand-holding the tool as opposed to using the Kelton captive system. For your final cuts, you need to be able to angle the tip to get the shear scrap on the interior and the tip needs to be absolutely sharp.

Shearing cuts on the outside with an appropriately ground gouge uses the side-grind with the tool held at approximately a 45º angle to the cut line and should generate very, very fine shavings...not dust. You are not scraping, you are cutting. As to the tool...not every gouge can be configured with a side grind. In addition to the "real" Ellsworth gouge, the Sorby 1/2" (5/8") bowl gouge can be set up that way, as can the Glasser and a few others. It all has to do with the configuration of the gouge flute. Here's a useful page about gouge designs:

http://www.peterchild.co.uk/info1/sflute.htm

Your HFT tools may not be appropriate for this configuation. Further, the only way to really succesfully (and repeatably) deal with a side-grind is with a jig. It can be a commercial one, such as the OneWay Wolverine with the Vari-grind, the Ellsworth jig with a shop-built base (instructions come with it) or a completely shop-built system, such as the one a fellow up in Canada did. (I don't recall his name or site)

You may want to consider getting a hold of a copy of David Ellsworth's video so you can see all the cuts with a side grind gouge. Turning is a "visual" medium when it comes to learning and written descriptions fall way short of reality. Bill Grumbine's video, when it becomes available, should also be on your short list! If you join your local AAW chapter (http://www.woodturner.org), they may very well have the Ellsworth video in their lending library, not to mention a bunch of mentors available to help you locally.

[John Szarek]

Ok, Guess I have to bring my gouge with me to woodcraft to have someone show me how to do it correctly. The kelton system does work very well, but I cannot get a flat bottom with it, which is why I am going over to my scrapers / gouges.

Thanks for the information and video suggestions.
John