Workbench top - thickness and finishing

[Victor Robinson]

Sorry to make another thread about my workbench but I figured the other thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=129620) got too long and was focused on the removal of the old poly.

The thickness of the top is a hair over 1", and it's beech butcherblock. Think I need a layer of 3/4 mdf/ply under it? I suppose aside from the work it can't really hurt but hauling sheet goods home from the BORG is always such a fiasco.

Also what finish would you recommend?

[Peter Quinn]

I'm wondering what a sheet of MDF or plywood under the beech would do for you? Short of adding weight, which could be achieved cheaper with sandbags or a tool shelf filled with stuff, I don't see the advantage? It seems to me if you want added stiffness a few stretchers would provide more bang for less buck and with less back strain. I can't see a meaningful way to attach a 1" beech top to a 3/4" piece of sheet good in any event that will provide secure attachment without leading to warping. If you can take a look at Chris Swartz's book, particularly the Nicholson English bench. Might make more sense for a 1" thick top approach.

For a finish I like an oil of some kind (BLO, tung, danish, mineral, walnut, etc) or perhaps a few quick coats of shellac rubbed down a bit with steel wool. You don't want a work bench too slick, and you do want a finish that is easy to repair, so that leaves out most film forming finishes in my mind. Shellac is fairly easy to sand out or repair as a film finish.