How often do you need 6+" capacity from jointer?

[Billy Trinh]

I wasn't planning to own one due to limited space but the HD clearance price ($199) on the rigid 6 1/8" jointer looks very tempting. From reading past posts, everyone seems to recommend a 8" jointer. I suppose it depends on the work that you do but i'm wondering how often do you need < 6" capacity vs > 6" capacity? Does the 80/20% rule apply?

[Jeremy Leasure]

Bought an 8". Wish I'd saved for a 12".

[Matt Day]

You're probably always going to want a bigger jointer, but I'd recommend at least an 8" unless the 6" is a steal. Is it the floor mounted cabinet one?

You'll be limiting yourself to the small percentage of <6" boards at the lumber yard (though there are some tricks to jointing wider boards than your jointer's capacity if you decided to do so). I'd say about 10% of the boards at my lumber yard are less than 6". Rough guess.

[Scott T Smith]

I have a 16" and am glad that I do. Probably 90% of the boards that I joint are wider than 6". For that matter 90% of the wood that I sell is wider than 6" too.

Part of the answer is that it depends upon what you want to do with it. When I'm doing a panel glue up, I'd rather use two 8" boards to get a 16" wide panel, versus three or four narrower boards. Same thing on a top surface - my preference is wider and fewer boards.

6" sure has worked for a lot of people though, and if most of your work involved stock less than 6" wide, then you can always use a planer sled for the few instances when you need to use wider stock.

[Tony Bilello]

I would also say that rarely are my boards less than 6".
Most of my hardwoods are between 6 to 9 inches. I have an 8" joiner and wish I had a bigger one.
Its not just the width, the 8" also has a longer bed, is substantially heavier, has a bigger motor and so on.

[Glen Butler]

It is better to own a 6" than nothing at all. You can also flip the board and joint up to 12". This will work for bowed boards, but not as well for twisted. I joint over 6" everyday. Few occasions have required wider than that. But at $199, how can you go wrong? You could do a little search for used and maybe able to get something more industrial, but do yourself a favor and by a jointer.

[Grant Larouere]

It really depends on what you're doing, and how you purchase your lumber.
I have a 6". I was really close to buying the Ridgid one at HD, but got a deal on a Grizzly one instead.

All the lumber I buy is s2s and they do a really good job of surfacing it, so 90% of what I do with it is edge jointing. My planer takes car of the rest. I don't have much room, so the smaller footprint is great. I rarely have to resaw, and when I do , I plan accordingly. Yes, sometimes is does stink to have to piece 6" sections together, but that's part of the tradeoff.

If the price is too good to pass up and it fits in your budget (and shop) better than a larger model, than get it. You could always sell it later and easily break even...
Then again, if you have the cash and the room, this is one of those tools that is always handy to have larger than smaller. No one ever wishes for a smaller jointer.

[Myk Rian]

You can always joint a board wider than the machine by using the rabbet function.
I had a Jet 6" that I did 10" boards with.

[Casey Gooding]

My general rule is that, in a perfect world, your jointer would be the same width as your planer.

[Frank Warta]

Having just purchased that HD clearance jointer here was my rationale.

I was previously planning to hope to get lucky on craigslist or end up with a bench-top model. For the price of a bench-top version I was able to get one with full length beds, a lifetime warranty and a respectable if not overwhelming online reputation. I understand why so many veterans give the advice to wait for bigger but I think sometimes what gets lost in that argument is that then you're basically having to wait that much longer to get started at all. Since many 8" variants (especially if you also heed the advice to buy the helical head versions) are double the price that basically means waiting twice as long. At the current price of the JP0610 at HD that would have been more like 4 times as long. So from a price stand point it should get me making sawdust that much sooner.

From a work-flow standpoint I justify it this way. Most pieces will have a final dimension of less then 6" wide and so if you rough dimension your work before you surface it the only places where the limited capacity will really be a problem is larger panels for tops and sides, which would often be an issue even for an 8" jointer. So I figured I'm gonna be stuck in those cases useing an alternate method like running it both ways in the jointer and dealing with the alternate direction tearout, or using a jointer sled for my router, or (most likely) using a jointer sled in a thickness planer (once I have one). All of these methods have some disadvantages but I figure so long as I go into it understanding that and ready to deal with the outcome then it's not that big of a deal. The reality is that even with an 8" jointer many of these issues will still come up. The most likely exception being things like larger drawer fronts which may fall in between 6" and 8".

So basically I don't see the raw lumber size as a limiting factor only the size of the pieces I'll need to build my projects. You often hear people saying don't run an 8' board through the jointer if you don't need 8' parts because it's hard to get good results and it's not as safe, well I basically see board width the same way. I know that I'll have more waste this way, but I'm not totally convinced that once you've actually laid out your parts you really save that much wood.

So for me it really came down to the fact I probably would have waited for over a year (maybe even 2 or 3) to justify spending $800 or more on a jointer, and this way for $200 I have something that I think will meet my needs for a long time, and if I'm willing to be creative and patient I'm hoping my next one will be a 12" or 16". Because as much as people say to wait for an 8" most of the shops I've watched that have a really big one for large panels still use a small one for all the smaller parts and I would hopefully have the space by then to justify doing that myself.

The last thing I'll say is that as someone with next to no experience this isn't meant so much as advice but rather just my own justification for buying the same thing you're considering. Only time will tell but I feel confident I'll be able to make it work, and the one thing I'm sure of is I'll be waiting a lot less time before I can finally start putting to use all of the wonderful information I've gotten from this forum.

[Paul Canaris]

It's not the width of the cutter that's important so much as the length of the beds which makes flattening the lumber easier. I rarely use wood wider than 12" but frequently have long pieces to flatten. Narrow width jointer's have shorter beds and are harder to flatten longer pieces on. I have an SAC that has a 16" cutter width which I rarely need, but the bed is around 84" long which I have yet to regret in spite of how much room it takes up; it just makes life easier.

[John Yogus]

FWIT, I got a good deal on a 6" Craftsman about a year ago when Steel City closed up shop in Pittsburg and moved elsewhere. I have to rip some rough boards with the circ. saw before jointing and then do a glue up, but I paid something like $170 for the jointer. If I get s2s, it's not an issue at all. I should add that I am a weekend warrior at best. Sure, it would be nice to have a bigger jointer, but for what I do, I can live with this...especially for the price I paid.

[Van Huskey]

Everyone always wants bigger. Old school furniture builders rarely used wide wood, they built it to last centuries. Modern hobbyists (like myself) tend to you wider and wider stock for asthetics. You can easily do 100% of your work with a 6 inch jointer but it may require moure planning and work (and your panels my endure longer as well). If you do not have a jointer at $200 you will save over the cost of the jointer in a pretty short while.

Don't hesitate, get the jointer and even if you decide to replace it with a 8 or 12 inch the money you save on buying rough wood and the money you can get back from the jointer will put you ahead in the end.

[Cody Colston]

Like most hobbiests, I started with a 6" jointer. It was great for edge jointing but for face jointing, it seemed it was always an inch or two too narrow.

I have an 8" Grizzly now and it will handle probably 90% of the rough-sawn stock I use. If I have a wider board that I don't want to rip down, I can either remove the guard and joint it twice per side or plane it flat on a planer sled...my planer is 15".

But, rarely do I work with stock that is wider than the 8" jointer.

[Jeff Nolan]

just yesterday I used all 12" of my jointer to straighten out a board prior to planing.




I wasn't planning to own one due to limited space but the HD clearance price ($199) on the rigid 6 1/8" jointer looks very tempting. From reading past posts, everyone seems to recommend a 8" jointer. I suppose it depends on the work that you do but i'm wondering how often do you need < 6" capacity vs > 6" capacity? Does the 80/20% rule apply?

[Stephen Edwards]

You can always joint a board wider than the machine by using the rabbet function.
I had a Jet 6" that I did 10" boards with.

I've heard of this technique but I don't how to do it. Can you please explain it or direct me to a link where it's already been explained in detail, please? Thanks for your time.

[Stephen Edwards]

I'd really like to have a wider jointer than my 6" Grizzly jointer. However, it doesn't keep me from doing nice work, well, at least nice work for me. It also helps that it has a long bed.

Many times on a 12 inch board, I'd rip it in half anyway before face jointing it, especially of the board isn't overly thick and does have somewhat of a cup. The glue lines on most lumber that I work with are almost invisible, assuming that I'm ripping, face jointing and gluing the boards together from the same board. If I didn't have a jointer and didn't see an 8" or wider in my near future, I'd get the 6" jointer and learn to live with it until you can upgrade to larger, should you decide to do so.

[Chip Lindley]

Billy, all the Pros and Cons offered here come from individuals particular need for a jointer. You are now buying your first jointer. As said, any jointer is better than none! Learn the art of jointing on the Ridgid and decide for yourself how useful (or lacking) it is.

Personally, in faceframe / raised-panel cabinet building, I rarely use a board wider than 4". I glue up panels of boards not exceeding 4". The sages at Fine Woodworking magazine taught me this, eons ago. A whole kitchen or bath can be built with 4" hardwood. I rip and crosscut each piece slightly oversize before face/edge jointing. It's more work, but more lumber can be made to yield usable parts! Of course there are those who embrace the use of *wide wood* in their work. They must deal with wood's expansion and cupping in their own way.

I used a very small and ancient Delta/Milwaukee 6" / 32" bed jointer for lots of years. You are way ahead of me from the git-go! The Ridgid's 48" bed length is quite sufficient for many projects. I edge-jointed a 20ft. long red oak board on the little 32" bed, once upon a time! Many things are possible when you master your machine!

Enjoy learning on the Ridgid, and gain experience. Should your need increase, you can sell it off and go for bigger. 8" is the workhorse! Few hobbiest woodworkers have room, nor can they justify the expense of a huge 12"-16" jointer. But, to each his own. Time will tell what your true jointer needs are. Good Luck!

[Billy Trinh]

Thanks all for your informative responses as always. I haven't worked with rough lumber yet so the info on average width at lumber yard is very useful. I will settle for a 6" for now given it's current price and learn how to use it and work around its limitation. It seems that one always want the next size up :). And supersizing tools are many quarters more.

As i started woodworking not too long ago, I do enjoy working with some constrains as it allows me to learn how to use what I have and make the most out of them. Also learn what I don't have and plan accordingly.

I wanted to get a planer first as it can be used like a jointer using jig but I guess jointer beat it to the door. Time to reorganize the garage for the first stationary tool.

Btw, the jointer is this one.
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/8b/8b65973d-eb47-421e-8c4a-1f34cd3f666e_300.jpg

[Glen Butler]

I've heard of this technique but I don't how to do it. Can you please explain it or direct me to a link where it's already been explained in detail, please? Thanks for your time.

You simply remove the guard. Run the board with half of it on the tables. Then turn the piece end to end and run the other half. You may have a smalle ridge where you ran the two halves but it will be flat otherwise and can be run through the planer, jointed side down first. Then once the other rough side is flat, turn the board over and get rid of the ridge.

[glenn bradley]

YMMV but, I needed just a bit more than my 6" would do often enough to upgrade to an 8". The very, very seldom times I require more than that I use a planer sled.

[Matthew Hills]

6" jointer is good for edge jointing almost anything and face jointing on narrow stock. Narrow stock is pretty common -- most legs, rails/stiles, drawer components, etc.

The width will be an issue if you're hoping to face joint for solid panels or the boards for table tops. It also means you can't slap a 9" board down to square up and then rip into sub-components -- you'll need to think through your cutting sequence a bit more and figure out how to make the initial rip with the wood in it's natural (warped) condition.

You can obviously work around this. Removing the guard is one way to increase your capacity. I use a hand plane to do a rough flattening, after which I'll continue with the planer.

$199 is a reasonable price. Used 6" are in the $200-250 range, also, although those usually require new blades/belt.

A larger jointer would be nice, but don't have the floorspace budget for this.

Matt

[Stephen Edwards]

You simply remove the guard. Run the board with half of it on the tables. Then turn the piece end to end and run the other half. You may have a smalle ridge where you ran the two halves but it will be flat otherwise and can be run through the planer, jointed side down first. Then once the other rough side is flat, turn the board over and get rid of the ridge.

Thanks, Glen. I'll give it a try to see how that works for me.

[Rod Sheridan]

My general rule is that, in a perfect world, your jointer would be the same width as your planer.

Gee, I must live in a perfect world, I have a Hammer A3-31:D.

I previously owned an 8" General, which was fine for 90% of the wood I used.

The wider jointers give you two benefits, the ability to plane wider material, and the ability to skew narrow material when the grain is difficult.

That said, I'll hazard the guess that the Ridgid will be your first jointer, not your last.

Enjoy your new machine, regards, Rod.

[Glen Butler]

My general rule is that, in a perfect world, your jointer would be the same width as your planer.

But they don't make a 20" jointer. . . as far as I know.

Wait Martin makes one, but it still wouldn't be a perfect world, cause they cost $23,000, plus accessories.

[Kirk Simmons]

I paid $200 for a used Ridgid 6" Jointer maybe 6 months ago and so far it works fine for me. Bigger is always nice, but for the projects I have done so far it seems decent enough. Think of it this way - good, working 6" jointers sell on CL for about $200. Buy the Ridgid one, use it for a few years. If you then feel the need for a larger jointer, sell the one you have and upgrade. You'll probably get the entire $200 back again, or close to it.

[Frank Drew]

You simply remove the guard. Run the board with half of it on the tables. Then turn the piece end to end and run the other half. You may have a small ridge where you ran the two halves but it will be flat otherwise and can be run through the planer, jointed side down first. Then once the other rough side is flat, turn the board over and get rid of the ridge.

Take Glen's advice: This method works very well to prepare stock for the planer and in effect doubles what many people think is the face jointing capacity of a jointer.

[Rod Sheridan]

But they don't make a 20" jointer. . . as far as I know.

Wait Martin makes one, but it still wouldn't be a perfect world, cause they cost $23,000, plus accessories.

Felder AD951..............Regards, Rod.

[Bruce Wrenn]

About a year ago, FWW had an article on face jointing boards wider than 6" on a 6" jointer. You are limited to about 10" total width of your boards. This is the method I have used for years. Ironically another WW mag was evaluating my technique when FWW article came out. Story of my life "A dollar short, and a day late."

[johnny means]

But they don't make a 20" jointer. . . as far as I know.

Wait Martin makes one, but it still wouldn't be a perfect world, cause they cost $23,000, plus accessories.

I actually checked out a 24" j/p before I settled on an AD751 (20"). It was a real monster, the tables were to big to lift out of the way, they just pivoted backwards.

[johnny means]

You simply remove the guard. Run the board with half of it on the tables. Then turn the piece end to end and run the other half. You may have a smalle ridge where you ran the two halves but it will be flat otherwise and can be run through the planer, jointed side down first. Then once the other rough side is flat, turn the board over and get rid of the ridge.
This doesn't work on cupped or twisted boards. There is no way to get the too halves coplaner, unless they were coplaner to begin with, in which case they didn't need jointing

[Kent E. Matthew]

My projects have been fairly simple, but I have never needed an 8" jointer. I bought a Delta DJ15 off craigslist for 400 dollars. I am very happy with it.

[Brent Ring]

It is better to own a 6" than nothing at all. You can also flip the board and joint up to 12". This will work for bowed boards, but not as well for twisted. I joint over 6" everyday. Few occasions have required wider than that. But at $199, how can you go wrong? You could do a little search for used and maybe able to get something more industrial, but do yourself a favor and by a jointer.

+ 1 on Glen's comments. I own a 6" inch and wish I had a bigger one, but I purchased my used JET to get some experience with using a jointer. I will probably be able to sell it for nearly what I paid for it ($300), and I am that much more educated on jointer usage.

I do have access to a 16" when I need it, too! :D

If I had it to do over again, I probably should have bought the 8". If budget is not a constraint, get an 8". If it is, get the 6" and enjoy the learning experience.

[Frank Drew]

About a year ago, FWW had an article on face jointing boards wider than 6" on a 6" jointer. You are limited to about 10" total width of your boards.

With FWW's method (whatever that is) you might be limited to 10", but I'd feel comfortable face jointing stock just under 12" wide on a 6" jointer.

[Scot Ferraro]

Another tip fpr jointing wider on a 6 inch is to get a piece of laminate and tape it to the infeed table left of the cutter. Adjust the tables so that the amount of material removed is the same as the thickness of the laminate strip. Remove the guard and take a full pass. When you flip the board it will register off the laminate strip and allow you to joint the other piece. This worked for me until I moved up to my Hammer A3-31. :D I think I read about this tip in one of the wood-working magazines...cannot remember which one.

Scot

[Rod Sheridan]

Remove the guard and take a full pass.
Scot


Boy, am I glad you bought the right jointer.

The last thing I would do is encourage anyone to remove a guard......Regards, Rod.

P.S. I saw the remains of a jointer accident when I worked in industry, nothing left to retrieve, just a red sticky spray all over the inside of the machine and the dust hose.

[Myk Rian]

I've heard of this technique but I don't how to do it. Can you please explain it or direct me to a link where it's already been explained in detail, please? Thanks for your time.
I didn't see this until today.
Remove the guard.
Run the stock using the rabbet feature. Each time, lower the infeed a tad.
When the rabbeted face is flat, move to the planer.
Place a 1x6 board, the length of your stock, under the rabbeted portion. Double side tape them together.
Run the stock through the planer until the un-jointed side is flat.
Remove the 1x6 and plane that side of the stock, until the rabbet is removed.

[Michael MacDonald]

Having just purchased that HD clearance jointer here was my rationale.

I think I will print out your testimony and re-read it when I save up enough to get a jointer for myself (i.e. when I think I can sneak it past the wife). Good decision.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I thought about the 6" and one-upped it to the 8". The first set of boards I ran through was 7-8" wide.

My answer would be "more often than you think". What about asking <8" vs. >8"?

[Alan Schwabacher]

If you want a more detailed description of using a narrow jointer to flatten a wide board, with photos and a blade guard, see the article "Flattening Wide Boards on a Narrow Jointer (http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Jointing_wide_boards) by Joe Grout" about halfway down on the left side of the list at this link:
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To_Power/POWER_INDEX_How_To.htm

[Jerry Olexa]

You'll never have a wide enough jointer...wider the better.

[Frank Drew]

This [flipping wide boards on the jointer] doesn't work on cupped or twisted boards. There is no way to get the too halves coplaner, unless they were coplaner to begin with, in which case they didn't need jointing

Not true; find the high corners (on twisted boards) and concentrate on those until winding sticks show the board is flat enough to face joint full length.

Similarly, on cupped boards you can support the offside edge so that you're cutting only on the inboard edge until a few inches are flattened; flip and do the same to the other side.

Done both numerous times; in my experience, if you can flatten a board with a hand plane, you can probably flatten it enough with a jointer, but more quickly. (Enough = ready for the thickness planer.)