User Modifications

[Eric Brown]

I'm starting this thread in the hopes that others will post their modified tools also. The idea is for simple modifications most have the time/tools/skills to accomplish and not so much the complex ones.

Pictured here are some Gramercy draw bore pins with flats on the handles to prevent rolling and help index the grip. The Gramercy dovetail saw had about 5/8" removed from the handle to fit my very small hands and the L-N scraper has tape on it so it can be used as a depth gage. The next picture shows both a L-V and Jr. Strasil holdfasts with leather pads (attached with contact cement) and a Record 778 rabbet plane with an added front knob.

Ok, now lets see yours...

Eric

138723

138724

[Preston Baxter]

I don't like the striking hoop and "nub" on the top of German chisels. It makes the handle too long and can really hurt the hand when paring, so I do this mod.

I also remove the thick clear lacquer, wipe on a thin coat of clear shellac and finally a little wax. Now the handle looks and feels much better.
http://personal.bellsouth.net/p/s/psbax/ww/HandleMod.JPG

[Jim Koepke]

I have made extra handles for my Stanley #45 and a runner for a #95 to cut sliding dovetails. That is still being worked on and will be posted when it is finished.

The picture shows one style of add on handle for the #45. Another was to just use an old broken front knob drill out to fit over the front rod. Amazing how much comfortable the plane can be to use over a day of planing with just a little addition of wood.

138733

jim

[Jim Koepke]

I don't like the striking hoop and "nub" on the top of German chisels. It makes the handle too long and can really hurt the hand when paring, so I do this mod.

I also remove the thick clear lacquer, wipe on a thin coat of clear shellac and finally a little wax. Now the handle looks and feels much better.


This is one reason I like socket chisels. They are a lot easier for making and fitting your own handles.

jim

[harry strasil]

if you put a nice smooth taper on the ends of your pins, pegs and trunnels, you don't need the draw bore pins, they are now draw bore pins, pegs and trunnels, just cut the end off after installing. If you have ever been in an old post and beam barn, you will see that the builders never cut the driven ends off as most farmers liked them to hang things on and if you are able to see the other end you will see that they are tapered as above.

[harry strasil]

Take a short piece of larger size dowel and cut half way thru it longways with a thin dovetail saw and place over your scraper blade as a handle to protect your palms from the sharp corners.

[Jim Koepke]

Take a short piece of larger size dowel and cut half way thru it longways with a thin dovetail saw and place over your scraper blade as a handle to protect your palms from the sharp corners.

I used to do this with kabob skewers. Have to be careful with a saw to do this. They were used on my old job to remove a jammed bill from the bill acceptors on the machines where I worked. Slide the slot over the edge of a trapped bill and then the bill could be rolled a few turns and extracted from the "buck sucker" as we sometimes called them.

It would put a machine back in service without having to get a "treasury agent" on scene which because of security would end up putting the machine out of service anyway.

jim

[John Baranowski]

Take a short piece of larger size dowel and cut half way thru it longways with a thin dovetail saw and place over your scraper blade as a handle to protect your palms from the sharp corners.
But then how do you flex the scraper?

[harry strasil]

I don't usually flex it, just use it like a 112, and I pull it.

[Jim Koepke]

But then how do you flex the scraper?

Use two pieces of dowel if you want to flex it.

jim

[James Taglienti]

You've all seen my butchered bed rock ..
....
enough said