Making a gouge handle.

[Jack Gaskins]

Well I got my Delta 46-460 lathe a few days ago and now I need to make two handles for some gouges. I searched through several articles on turning a tool handle and watched a couple of youtube vids on the subject but I still have a few questions. I bought some wood today for the handles. I have some Maple (dont know which kind though) a piece of brazilian cherry and some walnut. All are dry (supposedly). I have a Thompson 1/2" bowl gouge and a Thompson 3/8 detail gouge to make the handles for. Questions I have are;

1. What lenght handles for the gouges? 3/8" detail gouge = 12" handle? 1/2" gouge = 18" handle?

2. What size ferrule? I purchased a pack of 5/8" OD brass compression fittings. I read that the ferrule should be 3/4 to 1" long and I just measured the ones I bought and they are only 9/16" long. So should I buy something else (not copper)?

3. I read that the speed for drilling the handle should be 500?

4. What speed to turn down the ferrule?

5. Is it best to drill the hole first or at what step? Several of the articles I read all drilled the hole at different steps.

6. Will ordinary two part epoxy from Walmart work for gluing in the gouge or is there a better adhesive?

7. As for a finish, it seems everyone uses a different finish on their handles than the next guy. What have you guys found to work the best for you?

I think thats it,,,,,,,,,,,Thanks.

[Bob Wolfe]

Hi Jack, Just sent you a PM.

Bob

[Mac Carlton]

I have made several and did them in different ways. I think that the easiest way for me is to drill first, then using pin jaws on my chuck, I insert the drill bit,slide handle over ,this lines the hole up with the handle as you turn it, so that your handle and tool are not offset ,bring up tailstock and turn .I like to turn as fast as it feels safe the faster you turn square stock the more solid the piece seems to feel to me. If my tool will fit through the headstock ,I go ahead and glue in and hold the tool with my pin jaws. This will always insure a straight tool. Also doing it this way you don't have to be exact on your drilling just close cause when you turn you are straighting it out. I am limited to 20'' length on my lathe and do not have a steady rest for drilling long pieces and my drill press in a bench type, so some of my long handles were drilled with hand drill, and it is hard to be exact with one of them. So I just get close and finish on the lathe.
hope this helps.

[John Keeton]

Jack, I ended up using copper pipe for my ferrels. Bought a piece of repair joint. I was 3/4" ID, and a little thicker gauge. Seemed to work very well.

I drilled my holes after turning the lathe, by using a Jacobs chuck on the lathe. But, apparently a lot of folks drill the hole first, and use the hole to center up the tailstock. Mac's ideas sound like a good method.

This is one of the handles I did (with the tenon still on it) from walnut and curly maple scraps. I have the same Thompsons that you do - and, you will love them!!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=135408&d=1261012277
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=135409&d=1261012291

[Dennis Ford]

There are a bunch of ways to do it with only one rule;
"don't bleed on the wood".

1. Personal preference mostly, 18" seems a little long for a 1/2" gouge to me.
2. I think the 5/8" OD fittings will be too small, you want to have some wood inside the ferrule along with the shaft. Copper pipe works well, 1" would be about right for the 1/2" gouge.
3. 500 should work fine for drilling, the same or slower for turning the ferrule.
5. I make a little plug to fit in the hole and drill the hole very early in the process. Then turn between centers to finish. Pull out the plug and glue in shaft.
6. The Walmart epoxy works, 5 min type in cold weather will take a long time. The 5 min type can be too fast in the summer. If your hole is deep enough and fits good, use whatever glue you have.

[John Keeton]

Jack, BTW, I used no glue in mine. I used a Bessey clamp and a scrap block of wood to squeeze them in the handles. Worked fine.

[Jack Gaskins]

Jack, I ended up using copper pipe for my ferrels. Bought a piece of repair joint. I was 3/4" ID, and a little thicker gauge. Seemed to work very well.

I drilled my holes after turning the lathe, by using a Jacobs chuck on the lathe. But, apparently a lot of folks drill the hole first, and use the hole to center up the tailstock. Mac's ideas sound like a good method.

This is one of the handles I did (with the tenon still on it) from walnut and curly maple scraps. I have the same Thompsons that you do - and, you will love them!!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=135408&d=1261012277
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=135409&d=1261012291

John, your handle looks great. I really like how maple and walnut look together. As for a ferrule, I was thinking that a ferrule with threads like a compression nut would be best but guess I could use a 1" ID piece of thick copper.

[Sean Hughto]

Funny you should ask as I made an apple handle for a 1/2" v gouge form Mr. Thompson this afternoon. Length is sort of a personal preference, but I think mine is around 16".

I clean up the brass with a file and sandpaper. It goes pretty quick.

I prefer boiled linseed oil and maybe some beeswax.

As for drilling, I usually do it after fitting the ferrule and shaping the handle. 500 is about right for the max speed of the drill, but follow your instrincts and go slower is necessary.

I use the slow setting black 2-part epoxy PC-7.

Here's a similar handle I made several weeks back for a roughing gouge:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/4126033795_d05b6d0bc5_b.jpg

[Jack Gaskins]

Funny you should ask as I made an apple handle for a 1/2" v gouge form Mr. Thompson this afternoon. Length is sort of a personal preference, but I think mine is around 16".

I clean up the brass with a file and sandpaper. It goes pretty quick.

I prefer boiled linseed oil and maybe some beeswax.

As for drilling, I usually do it after fitting the ferrule and shaping the handle. 500 is about right for the max speed of the drill, but follow your instrincts and go slower is necessary.

I use the slow setting black 2-part epoxy PC-7.

Here's a similar handle I made several weeks back for a roughing gouge:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/4126033795_d05b6d0bc5_b.jpg

Thanks Sean. BTW what kind of ferrule did you use. It looks exactly like the type I want on mine but what I bought today was to small and didnt find anything bigger.

[Sean Hughto]

Hey, Jack. Here's a pic of the one from today with a few of the things I use for ferrules. I just go to the plumbing (sometimes gardening - i.e., hose fittings) aisle in the big box or local hardware and grab what looks good. I don't know their technical names. The one on the left is the type I used today and the one in the middle is type I used on the roughing gouge. It's good to get a variety because different tools call for different ferrules - like a bar stock 1 1/4" skew might need a different ferrule than a 1/4" detail gouge.

[Jack Gaskins]

Hey, Jack. Here's a pic of the one from today with a few of the things I use for ferrules. I just go to the plumbing (sometimes gardening - i.e., hose fittings) aisle in the big box or local hardware and grab what looks good. I don't know their technical names. The one on the left is the type I used today and the one in the middle is type I used on the roughing gouge. It's good to get a variety because different tools call for different ferrules - like a bar stock 1 1/4" skew might need a different ferrule than a 1/4" detail gouge.

Got a couple more questions, I noticed that the Thompson gouges have a tiny step down on the shank. Does the step down go in far enough to the bottom of the ferrule or the top of the ferrule? Also, I think I read that you need 1/4" of wood around the shank at the ferrule so for a 1/2" shanks I would need at least a 3/4" ID ferrule?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Jack I just use 3/4" or 1" copper for my ferrules.

[Mark Hubl]

I just made a handle for a long bit. Procedure is pretty much the same. Here is a brief pictorial of how I did it.

I think length is a personal preference. For midi lathe tools I pattern mine after Sorby midi tools. They are around 12". If you are making something for hogging or deep hollowing the handle will probably be on the long side. For most stuff I prefer the smaller handles.

I have used compression rings, copper pipe, and brass nuts for handles. I prefer copper pipe. Cheaper and easier to work. I like a "square" size. Diameter and length close. Narrower should work fine. The function is to keep the end from cracking and tight.

500 rpm is ok. Usually the slower the better for boring holes.

I would also go slow turning down a ferrule. If you want to loose the shape of a compression ring go slow and use a file.

I like drilling the hole first or after I round the blank but not finished. This will ensure it is centered nicely.

Epoxy is fine, I also like thick CA.

Finish is definitely all over the board. Use what you prefer.

John's handle looks great, doesn't it. Is that a little Zorro hat on the end??

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4276535055_b2d8c280d3_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4277279688_ed66822bec_o.jpg

[Jack Gaskins]

Thanks for the pictoral Mark, looks easy enough. Did you glue your ferrule on or make it a tight fit?

[Mark Hubl]

Jack,

I use a "tight" fit, need to hammer it on pretty good. I have had them loosen a bit if I make the handle in the summer. It will loosen with the dry air here in the winter. If so, then I will tighten it up with some CA.

[Sean Hughto]

The "stepped down" area is 1/2" diameter. You wuld have to drill a stepped hole to get the tool into the handle farther. I don't. the step down makes for an neat and easy job.

I don't know any rules for how much wood, but the 1/4" minimum makes sense. On this handle, the fitting has a threaded 1" ID (1 1/8th nut outside). So I turned a tenon a tiny shade under 1 (due tot he threads) and used a wrench to turn the ferrule on.

[Donny Lawson]

Where is a good source to buy the gouges? Turning your own handles looks like fun.I need some turning tools and this could be a great way to get them.The question is, How much can you save by making your own tools?
Donny

[Sean Hughto]

You can save some I suppose, but tools come in such a wide range of qualities and prices that one may be able to buy two economy brand handled gouges of a given size for the same price as a single unhandled one. But comparing quality to quality, you do tend to save some buying unhandled. Compare something like a handled Crown Pro PM to similar P&N or Thompson.

As far as sources, there is Mr. Thompson (excellent in my opinion) from whom you can buy direct and there are a handful of brands sold by WoodTurners, Packard and others, such the Australian brand P&N (Patience and Nicholson).

[Gary Chester]

I plan on making a couple of custom chisels using an old planer blade. What would you say is the minimum depth the planer blade be inserted into the handle to make a safe tool?

[Sean Hughto]

Antique tang bench chisels tend to have tangs in the inch and one half range. Mortising chisels (pig stickers), tend to be longer - two to two and one half inches. I'm just going from memory; I haven't gone down to the shop to measure.

Just as important as the length is the fit of the tang to the mortise and the fitting of the ferrule. A little epoxy never hurt either.