Stanley #75 Bull Nose Rabbet

[Jim Koepke]

I am not a big fan of this plane, but it is in the family of specialty planes and could be included in that thread in the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs in the future.

I am also not sure if this one was actually made by Stanley. It has a Stanley blade. This style of plane was actually made by many makers. Mine has a 20 tpi screw for the top and a 28 tpi screw for the blade cap. These are both thread pitches common to Stanley.

I am cleaning things and rearranging things in my shop and came upon this plane that is kind of redundant with my #90 Bull Nose Rabbet. The odd thing about this one is the slots in the bottom.

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Not much thought was given to those until this evening when I took the plane apart and noticed they were machined on the inside.

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It dawned on me that this could be used for attaching a fence to the plane. So, a little time was spent attaching a piece of wood and making some shavings.

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Because of the way the blade is installed into the #75, it is difficult to make the fence extend much in front of the plane to use as a guide. The mouth opening also has a slight effect on the blade angle. This is due to the the blade being partially supported by the top piece. When the mouth is set tight, it is also supported more on the bottom piece.

These planes are usually a lot less expensive than a #90. They do not have an adjuster for the blade and are a little "twitchy" to get set. Both the #75 and the #90 Bull Nose Rabbet Planes are useful in tight places. Both are difficult to register on the work because of the very short area in front of the blade. For trimming shoulders, one of the planes with a longer nose like the Stanley #92, 93 or 94 or their equivalents from other makers will be a lot easier to use. The #90 can have the top removed and be used as a chisel plane. The #75 does not have this ability.

jim

[Tony Zaffuto]

Patrick Leach claims they're only good for scraping paint. I have one, as well as a 90 and neither is used much.

[Bill Houghton]

I always found mine very hard to use until I installed a palm rest at the back - up until I did that, I could never find a way to hold it that didn't involve the top of the cutting iron chafing my hand somewhere.

[David Gilbert]

Bill,

I have one and haven't found much use for it either. Can you post a photo of yours with the palm rest?

Cheers,

[Sean Hughto]

Worthless paperweight.

{The 75 in general, not yours specifically.}

[Jim Koepke]

Patrick Leach claims they're only good for scraping paint. I have one, as well as a 90 and neither is used much.

Actually, his description starts out: This is a cheap, little rabbet plane, that is very useful in the shop.


Worthless paperweight.

Not if I can get a few bucks from the great auction site for it.

jim

[Zach England]

I kind of like my Stanley 90. It can get into tight corners and is less destructive than my LN 97 1/2. I use it as a chisel plane. I would like to try the veritas bull nose in comparison.

[Bill Houghton]

Bill,

I have one and haven't found much use for it either. Can you post a photo of yours with the palm rest?

Cheers,

I posted a pic with some discussion of how I made the palm rest over on Wood Central a couple of years back. Let's see if this works: http://woodcentral.com.ldh0138.uslec.net/cgi-bin/archives_handtools.pl?read=45845&v1=e2vrt43&v2=Cabinetmaking&v4=joinery&v5=fkl8yt6

I later bought a Record bullnose - the No. 75 is now limited to rough work, like planing off paint lumps when doing outside maintenance on the house.

[Jim Koepke]

While looking for something else on the web today, these popped up.

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jim

[Michael Hartery]

So I also have the Stanely #75. My question is what angle bevel to I put on the blade when I sharpen it? Its a bevel down blade so what angle edge do I give it and what should be the final angle of the cutting blade. The frog put the blade at 40 degrees to the sole.
Any help will be great.
Thank you.

[Bill Houghton]

So I also have the Stanely #75. My question is what angle bevel to I put on the blade when I sharpen it? Its a bevel down blade so what angle edge do I give it and what should be the final angle of the cutting blade. The frog put the blade at 40 degrees to the sole.
Any help will be great.
Thank you.
Normal 25-30 degree angle should be fine. The sharpening angle is not critical, as long as there's clearance behind the blade when it's in place (that is, you don't want a sharpening bevel equal to the angle at which the iron beds).

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick Leach claims they're only good for scraping paint. .....

Not much good for that either.


So I also have the Stanely #75. My question is what angle bevel to I put on the blade when I sharpen it?

What is the point of sharpening this plane's blade? You will quickly discover that it cannot be held in the hand - far too painful. And you manage to do so, the mouth is yawning wide and you will struggle to set it and take a shaving.

I think it was meant as Stanley's April Fool joke. Amazingly, they sell well on eBay. Even outside of April.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Griggs]

I've never gotten mine to do anything worth while. It just sorta tear chunks out of wood. The offset toe makes it difficult to use. Maybe I'll bring mine to work to use as a paperweight... it would see more use that way.