Help me with MS and RAS fence/table setup?

[Jim Underwood]

I have a miter saw and a radial arm saw that I'm planning to build a table and fence for along the 24 foot wall of my shop.

Generally I'm thinking of having a couple of lumber racks above the table, drawers and a cabinet under the table, as well as a couple of cubbies for cutoffs and scrap. And of course the miter saw and radial arm saw will be side by side in the center of said table to allow the long stock either side of the blade.

My question is how to build a good, adjustable fence (with tape and stops) and attach it to the top?

Do you have ideas, suggestions or pictures?

Thanks for the help.

[Jim Underwood]

Bump...

anybody?

[Jerome Hanby]

I've got the same thing on my to do list. I originally was going to modify Norm's Miter Saw station to have a second built-in for my RAS (at the time was a Dewalt Powershop with no stand). I've since laid hands on a DeWalt GWI with a pretty good stand and think I'll build Norm's exactly per his plans. It's been a while since I watched that episode, but I'm pretty sure his fence was complete with measuring tape and stops that worked with both saws.

Actually looking at what I can see on the www, the RAS and miter saw are on different planes, but it looks like the RAS fence is extended onto the lower tier of the miter bench work surface.

[Jerome Hanby]

I've got the same thing on my to do list. I originally was going to modify Norm's Miter Saw station to have a second built-in for my RAS (at the time was a Dewalt Powershop with no stand). I've since laid hands on a DeWalt GWI with a pretty good stand and think I'll build Norm's exactly per his plans. It's been a while since I watched that episode, but I'm pretty sure his fence was complete with measuring tape and stops that worked with both saws.

Actually looking at what I can see on the www, the RAS and miter saw are on different planes, but it looks like the RAS fence is extended onto the lower tier of the miter bench work surface.

[Don Jarvie]

Thats a pretty good plan Jim and will "borrow" some of your ideas if you don't mind :)

I am going to set the bench up strickly for the RAS. The miter will be dedicated to outside the shop work.

My plan is to have 6 to 8ft to the left of the saw and 2 ft to the right. Should I need to extend any boards to the right I can use a roller. I will mostly use it for cross cutting and maybe dados and cutting from the left is more accurate.

I want to design the fence so I can do both 90 and 45 cuts so I have to see where I need to place the fence to accomplish this.

I think Kreg makes a miter fence system like Norm used or you can make your own.

Let us know how it comes out.

[Jim Underwood]

Where do you see Norms miter saw station?

I'm evidently a Luddite when it comes to TV and cable stuff...:o
(The old 19 inch CRT I won as a Christmas '98 door prize is only hooked up to a DVD player.:rolleyes:)

[Rick Potter]

I have mentioned this before, but I mounted my RAS and chop saw next to each other with a common fence. I put them ON the bench, not built IN the bench. Couple reasons. It mounts them higher up which is more comfy to use, and you can still use the bench for cutoffs and tools.

My fence just goes off to the left about 4 feet (it could be any length), its table is only six inches deep, from the fence. At the RAS there is a normal table, it is just the 4' extension that is 6" deep. That is all you need to hold the wood.

I have a simple 'T' slot in the face of the fence with home made stops, and a stick on measuring tape on top. It is very accurate, and I use it all the time.

Rick Potter

[Pat Meeuwissen]

Jim wood magazine had a miter station plan within the last couple of months you could use it to build upon. It had open storage under the built up sections so you can use that to store your tools and what not. Pat

[Jim Underwood]

Back on this project...

So far I've built three new cabinets, each 48" wide and 35-1/4" high. I also have one existing cabinet 66 inches wide the same height. The plan, right to left, is 66" and 48" cab, then the RAS on it's own stand/cabinet (23"), then a 48" cab, mitersaw (22"), and another 48" cab. That leaves 24" for standing up sheet goods on the end wall.

I have not built the top or the fence for either one, since the cabs come first and will all need to be leveled, as well as some sort of stand/cabs for the saws built. I plan to use some 3/4 white melamine PB I've scavenged from the shop I work in for the tops, and then design the fence and DC.

Here are my ideas for the fence and table:
1) Both saws will be mounted below the table surface possibly on adjustable plates for leveling purposes. This way the table and saw surfaces can be made flush.
2) The fence will be built such that it has front to back adjustment built in. The fences I've used in the past get out of line where the saw cuts through it, and it's hard to get a square cut...
3) The fence will have a slot of some sort to allow sawdust to pass under it, both for dust collection purposes and so sawdust will not hold the workpiece off the fence.
4) Of course I'll want a stop and tape system that's adjustable also.
5) Since the RAS takes up so much depth front to back, only the table top will be wider at that point instead of bringing all the cabinets off the wall 8 inches. In a 16' wide shop that 8" x 24' run takes up a LOT of usable space.
6) Replaceable insert for RAS cut path.
7) DC collection designed for each saw- long slot opening for RAS, and bell reducer or similar under the miter saw.

Additional ideas or suggestions quite welcome. A link to Norms setup would also be quite welcome. I spent an hour this evening poring over 6 shop setup books at Barnes and Noble, and saw almost nothing detailing fences for RAS or Miter saws...:rolleyes:

[John M Wilson]

Hi!

I have purchased New Yankee Workshop plans directly from their website, www.newyankeeworkshop.com. The plan you want is called "Miter Bench and Storage", Item #0201.

Sometimes, Rockler has NYW plans (and accessories), but I did not see a listing for this particular plan.

I do have this plan and DVD set, but I haven't built it yet. (It's still a couple of items away on the honeydew list, but it keeps me motivated).

Good Luck!

[Jim Underwood]

Wow. I just ran across this list of links to free and paid plans for miter saw tables:

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/02/25/10-free-miter-saw-stand-plans-9-pictorial-idea-guides-2-videos-6-paid-plans-and-more/

[Myk Rian]

I've been restoring a 1958 DeWalt RAS. Will be building a separate table instead of a bench. There are some guidelines for the RAS table, such as distance from the back of the saw to the fence. There are also ways to ensure you get an absolutely flat table. The Bible of RAS can be had from here. http://mrsawdust.com/

I have the table to make for this saw.

[Sean Nagle]

1) Both saws will be mounted below the table surface possibly on adjustable plates for leveling purposes. This way the table and saw surfaces can be made flush.

I'm also planning a "shared" work surface for my RAS. I haven't run across any tips about the best techniques and strategies to get multiple cabinet tops and tool surfaces leveled. It seems every component would need to have leveling adjustment to make this work and then it would still be a major PITA to get everything properly leveled.

I'd like to hear from someone who's actually done this, especially with a RAS since its adjustments are also very difficult to get fully tweaked.

[Jim Underwood]

Since I work in a cabinet shop I've heard how this should start....

Find the high spot in the floor along the wall where you're installing the cabinets. Then level the cabinet at that spot with shims (you could use leveling feet if it make it easier), and screw the nailers to the wall. Then level all the rest of the cabinets to this one.

I've not done it myself, but obviously I'm going to have to learn what it takes...

[Jim Underwood]

I'm shaping parts for the tops in my design program, and I have a question about the Radial Arm saw "insert".

How do you fasten the insert to the tops/RAS? How wide do you make the insert?

I'm leaning toward making the insert as wide and deep as the RAS, and just replacing the whole thing when it gets too cut up.

Here's the layout so far:

[Sean Nagle]

Jim I was thinking of using doubled-up 3/4" MDF for my surface/RAS table. Since mine will be setup only for 90 degree cuts, I was going to have a dovetailed channel in the upper piece of MDF where I could simply replace a 2" wide section when it gets cut up.

[Don Jarvie]

Looks good Jim,

I finally completed mine and can post some pictures tonight. Here's the lessons learned..

1. Everything should run off the RAS cabinet so that should be put in first. If you look at Norms set up he has his RAS next to his bench so he can adjust the stand to match the bench. Since you are building around the saw everything has to come off the saw.

2. I don't know what kind of RAS you have but you should use the table that the saw uses. My Delta has the table that mounts to the saw so you can level it to the saw. Then there are 3 other boards that can be moved so the fence can move in and out for 45's etc.

3. The reason to use the table with the RAS is it's easier to get the table level to the saw. If you use your bench as part of the table you need to get the bench dead level and then make sure the saw is level to the bench. You may have to shim the saw which is harder.

4. Depending on the size of you shop see if a bench this large is good or bad. I would probably make mine a bit smaller - 6ft to the left and 2 ft to the rt. The bench space is great but I have to get creative on where to put the tools on the stands.

Any other questions fire away.

Don

[Jim Underwood]

Hmmm... Well that's a thought. I could lower the saw down 3/4 further than planned, bolt the MDF right to the flanges, add a dovetail stick to the MDF, then dovetail slot the insert...

That's a good plan. I think I'll do just that. Thanks for the idea!

As I work on this further, I'll keep y'all posted as to what I come up with. (And I'll keep asking questions since I've got to come up with a fence and DC plan too....)

[Don Jarvie]

Here's a few photos of my setup. I had to shim the right side table top a hair to get everything let. To change out the RAS top all I have to do is un-bolt it and put in a new one.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

[Sean Nagle]

Don, nice setup. That's a great place for an off-cut box beneath the RAS. The top had to be pretty difficult to level up like that.

[Don Jarvie]

Thanks Sean..

I actually built the benches piece by piece with the top back piece on the wall for the RAS as the starting point.

My floor is unlevel so all of the benches are based off that piece. At least I know the cabinet will be level.

[Sean Nagle]

Don, did you install levelers underneath the cabinets or just shim them.

[Don Jarvie]

I built the cabinets in place.

I made a frame the size of the RAS base and mounted it to the wall. My walls are plywood so I placed it so 1 screw hit a stud for extra strenth. I placed this about 35 inches high since I wanted a 40 inch high bench (40 - RAS table and base 5"). This frame was dead-level and the rest of the bench goes off this mark.

Added some 2x4 legs. I then put the RAS on the frame and attached the RAS table and got that level. The RAS table over hangs on each side. Added plywood sides like building a cabinet so they are high enough to support the RAS table. Then I built each side around the saw.

It seems like the hard way but my floor is unlevel so instead of fooling with shims, etc on a cabinet the legs go right to the floor and don't need shims or levelers.