Ridgid R4511 - SOOOO close to pulling the trigger on one!

[Dave Gaul]

I have found a HD relatively close to me that has 4 left @ the amazing price of $299!

Wasn't really going to spend the money now for one, and then this morning the LOML tells me she wants to (maybe) buy it for me for my birthday (Feb 1, would get it now of course).

I was leaning towards getting a Grizzly G0438RLX once I have the money (by march)($775), I live close enough to the PA showroom to go get it myself and save the shipping.

With the price of the R4511, almost impossible to pass up!

A few things are holding me back, so hope to get some input from all who have considered this saw & those who have them.

How will the granite hold up against metal jigs/accessories? Such as a tennon jig (like delta's or grizzly's)

Any issues with the miter slot chipping during use?

Does it really come with a lifetime warranty? (would be a big seller IMB!)

I currently do not heat my shop 24/7, gets pretty cold in the winter here, would this make granite a possitive or negative?

This saw was recalled, and now discontinued... should that be cause for concern?

I have read countless posts about this saw here on SMC, LJ's and the ridgid forum... haven't fully satisfied my questions, so I apoligize for another 4511 thread! Hoping that SMC is the place for the least biased answers/opinions!

Thanks to all in advance!

[Adam Strong]

If they have 4 now, they won't for long. Buy now ask questions later :p.... You could sell later for a profit at that price. These questions have been hashed out a countless number of times on the forums.
-The granite holds up great and I have had no chipping in the miter slots. Just use care when putting the jigs and fixtures into the slot.
-The lifetime warranty is a Lifetime Service Agreement (LSA) and yes it is for real, just be sure and register as per the instructions and keep a copy of EVERYTHING you send.
-The granite in the cold is no worse than cast iron. The only advantage is no rusting from condensation.
-The recall was resolved, and every product meets it's discontinued demise at some point.
The reason is all speculation, but I assure you it is not because it is a bad product.

I have had my R4511 for going on a year now and had no issues at all. I use it nearly everyday and have no plans to upgrade in at least the next few years. Hope this helps.

[Josh Reet]

At that price the only reason not to get one is if you already have a saw or you don't have the cash.

I couldn't justify it for myself. While I want to replace my Delta contractor saw at some point, I have to admit that it does what I want now, and if I upgrade in the future it will be to a bigger cabinet saw. I think for most people looking to buy a first saw or upgrade from a benchtop saw or whatever, this ridgid at this price is a no-brainer.

Happily my local HD was out of stock so I wasn't even tempted.

[Matt Schuman]

I bought one last spring during the "power tool sale". It's my first real saw, so I certainly can't compare to a new Griz, but I've had a good experience with it. The granite was well-matched and defect free and I've yet to chip it with the factory miter gauage or the Incra 1000se I recently bought. I've ripped quite a load of 1/2" and 3/4" ply and no complaints. Ran 4/4 red oak, maple and poplar as well. It's no power house and I'd search threads on blade selection to get the most out of the power it has. I've got a 50 tooth Avanti combo(the Freud verison, not the new Chinese-made type) and may look for rip and cross-cut specific blades. My shop is unheated as well and that's one of the reasons I bought the r4511...no rust from the cold tool sweats. My saw was one of the recalled machines. Just yesterday, the service center sent out a tech and my arbor passed. As much as a pain as it will be, it'd be easier to make sure that you buy a saw outside of the recall window.
If you search threads, there is an SMC thread on the recall that was a sticky a few months ago. I'd buy another one, especially for $299

[Rick Neely]

If they have 4 now, they won't for long. Buy now ask questions later :p.... You could sell later for a profit at that price. These questions have been hashed out a countless number of times on the forums.
-The granite holds up great and I have had no chipping in the miter slots. Just use care when putting the jigs and fixtures into the slot.
-The lifetime warranty is a Lifetime Service Agreement (LSA) and yes it is for real, just be sure and register as per the instructions and keep a copy of EVERYTHING you send.
-The granite in the cold is no worse than cast iron. The only advantage is no rusting from condensation.
-The recall was resolved, and every product meets it's discontinued demise at some point.
The reason is all speculation, but I assure you it is not because it is a bad product.

I have had my R4511 for going on a year now and had no issues at all. I use it nearly everyday and have no plans to upgrade in at least the next few years. Hope this helps.

A lot of good points and I agree with them all. I bought my R4511 in September 2009 for $600. I was somewhat tentative at the time, but I don't regret it one bit.

At $300 I wouldn't even hesitate purchasing the saw. That's a lot of saw at a great price. Buy it now, I don't think you will regret it.

Take care.

Rick

[scott spencer]

Dave - If you can get your hands on one, buy it now and ask the questions later. You can always return it next month if the answer aren't to your liking, but once it's gone it's too late.

This was a fair amount of saw for $600...$300 off should buy a little forgiveness...

[Dave Gaul]

I do have a saw, just a little delta table top direct drive "shopmaster"... I've been working alot lately with rough lumber, including 8/4 hard maple, and the delta doesn't like it too much!!

Scott, been following alot of your posts about the 4511 as well as Bob Haskett's posts... There is another Scott here that seems to rave about it too!

I think I'm convinced... $299 is a steal for her... gonna tell LOML she's gotta do it for the sake of my birthday!!! Of course, I get the saw for my birthday, she gets the cedar chest she's always wanted!!!;)

[George Farra]

Dave,

I'm in the same boat you are...except that I've already purchased the saw at $299. I bought it on impulse since i recalled it was favored by many. Today I started doing more solid research to ensure I know exactly what I got. Some feedback from the reading I've done:

1) The recall issue appears to be under control and TTI/HD have done a good job of informing/rectifying the issue....free of charge on site...your home or business

2) The granite top does not seem to be an issue with extreme temperature changes and any sweatting build up will not create a rust issue later. Although it seems fragile, at almost 2" thick most people say the top is very durable, chips can be repaired with epoxy. Use care when contacting the surface with jigs....the same as you would with cast iron...which can be nicked just as easily

3) the fence can be finicky as the rail is a 2 peice design. It has caused some angst with some peeps but not all. Many have faced the fence with UHWM plastic, phenolic, something. replacing the fence with another system will require you to drill out the new fence system to match the mounting holes in the granite top since you can drill/tap the granite as you would do with cast iron

4) the riving knife is more like a splitter that does move with the blade. It cannot be lowered for dado like cuts. many people have either ordered the steel city riving knives (both low & high profile sizes). Doesn't appear to be a robust design but it does exactly what a riving knife would do. Other manufacturers supply a low profile knife or an adjustable height knife.

It seems like a really solid saw at $600, at $299 is a steal....I'm on the fence for the following reasons:

- I like the riving knife/guard design of my Bosch 4100 much better

- I have a basement shop and I'm not sure I want to give up portability....plus I bought the bosch last year for $549....:(

- My wife may have said it best.....make sure its the saw you definately want cuz the trouble of getting down to the basement better be worth it for you.......I didn't really have the Ridgid on my list...like I said it was an impulse buy

best of luck

George

[Tim Elder]

I just grabbed the last one in our area. It hadn't been visibly marked down yet or it would have been gone. Stuff was flying off the shelves/floor. I figured if I didn't like I could craigslist it for at least what I paid for it in a month or so.

[Bob Haskett]

Scott, been following alot of your posts about the 4511 as well as Bob Haskett's posts... There is another Scott here that seems to rave about it too!

Just do it!

All kidding aside, I shopped for saws for about 6-7 months. I finally came to the conclusion (when it was $500) that I would have to spend more than twice that to get a saw that was noticeably better. Now I would have to spend 4x the amount the Ridgid cost. Even then, I would be more than likely in a range where I would be forced to add 220v. For the work I do, and the work I want to do, I cannot see needing any more saw.

Unless you have $1100 you do not mind dropping on a saw (if you do, look at the recently re-done Grizzly 1023 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3-HP-220V-Cabinet-Left-Tilt-Tablesaw/G1023RL)), I would jump on the 299 deal so fast I would need a seatbelt.

[John Vo]

Dave,

I'm in the same boat you are...except that I've already purchased the saw at $299. I bought it on impulse since i recalled it was favored by many. Today I started doing more solid research to ensure I know exactly what I got. Some feedback from the reading I've done:

1) The recall issue appears to be under control and TTI/HD have done a good job of informing/rectifying the issue....free of charge on site...your home or business

2) The granite top does not seem to be an issue with extreme temperature changes and any sweatting build up will not create a rust issue later. Although it seems fragile, at almost 2" thick most people say the top is very durable, chips can be repaired with epoxy. Use care when contacting the surface with jigs....the same as you would with cast iron...which can be nicked just as easily

3) the fence can be finicky as the rail is a 2 peice design. It has caused some angst with some peeps but not all. Many have faced the fence with UHWM plastic, phenolic, something. replacing the fence with another system will require you to drill out the new fence system to match the mounting holes in the granite top since you can drill/tap the granite as you would do with cast iron

4) the riving knife is more like a splitter that does move with the blade. It cannot be lowered for dado like cuts. many people have either ordered the steel city riving knives (both low & high profile sizes). Doesn't appear to be a robust design but it does exactly what a riving knife would do. Other manufacturers supply a low profile knife or an adjustable height knife.

It seems like a really solid saw at $600, at $299 is a steal....I'm on the fence for the following reasons:

- I like the riving knife/guard design of my Bosch 4100 much better

- I have a basement shop and I'm not sure I want to give up portability....plus I bought the bosch last year for $549....:(

- My wife may have said it best.....make sure its the saw you definately want cuz the trouble of getting down to the basement better be worth it for you.......I didn't really have the Ridgid on my list...like I said it was an impulse buy

best of luck

George

I also have this saw and agree with most of George's comments, but I'd like to add my own. It is my first table saw, but I did a lot of research before I decided on this one. Price was definitely a factor and at $299, it would've been a no brainer. I think I paid around $450 when Home Depot had their ultimate power deal promotion.

In regards to the granite, I ended up getting a replacement top after getting a top with a couple of chips in it. I recently picked up a bandsaw and a jointer with cast iron tops/beds and really appreciate the rust-free top of my table saw. I've spent several hours and breathed in so many fumes from WD-40, PB Blaster, mineral spirits, Naval Jelly and the like. I've been trying to find some Evapo-Rust, but that turned me onto lemon juice (citric acid being one of the main ingredients in Evapo-Rust) and that seems to be helping along with a blade scraper. The granite on the saw is nice, smooth and, of course, rust free. Time will tell as far as durability. It should be noted that the top is much thicker than your standard kitchen counter top. It contributes significantly the the saws 450 pound weight.

The stock fence can be a bit of a pain, especially without fence faces. I've temporarily mounted both MDF and melamine faces, but am in the process of replacing the fence, front guide tube and rear rail. I picked up a Steel City industrial fence (biesemeyer clone) for under $100 and acquired some 2x3 rectangular tube and some angle iron from my local metal supplier. I'll be reusing the existing one piece front rail and attaching the rectangular tube to it. Many people seem to be quite happy with the fence system after some tweaking and/or modifications.

The saw comes with a riving knife/splitter combo guard. It's not a riving knife in the sense that it sits below the blade, allowing for non-through cuts. However, the mount system allows for a true riving knife, as the riving knife/splitter moves up and down and tilts with the blade. With my Leecraft zero clearance inserts (purchased from Woodcraft), I can quickly and easily change out the blade and remove the riving knife without having to open up the cabinet. With the table insert removed, you can turn the knob by hand that locks the riving knife in place. You can't do this with the stock blade guard, however as the mounts for the plastic guard and pawls get in the way of removing the table insert. The Steel City riving knifes require some minor grinding as the bottom of the Ridgid splitter is beveled. Leestyron sells a drop in riving knife in thin and standard kerfs: http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php

I'm planning on doing the mod for the motor/cabinet cover to replace the screws with quick release levers, but Sears is out of stock of the part that everybody seems to use.

Another feature I feel that is worth mentioning is that while the saw is incredibly heavy for a hybrid saw (some cabinet saws aren't this heavy), the Herc-U-Lift mobile base system is awesome and allows to easily move the saw around my horribly bumpy "garage." When engaged, the saw is lifted up onto the four swivel casters. When disengaged, all four casters are lifted up and out of the way. A lot of mobile bases seem to only lift a couple of the casters off, with the remaining ones being locked in with a brake, which I find doesn't keep some machines completely parked.

I'll reiterate what everybody has been saying that this is an incredible amount of saw for your dollar, especially at the $299 price. At that price, you could upgrade to a Biesemeyer style fence system and it would outperform any other new table saw in its price range.

[Bob Haskett]

With my Leecraft zero clearance inserts (purchased from Woodcraft),
.........
I'm planning on doing the mod for the motor/cabinet cover to replace the screws with quick release levers, but Sears is out of stock of the part that everybody seems to use.


Can you tell me which Leecraft Zero Clearance insert you purchased (part #?) Also which quick release levers are you referring to at Sears? I cannot find any post related to that, but the mod sounds interesting.

[Dave Gaul]

Called the HD I spoke of earlier, they still have 4 of them! CS put one on 24hr reserve in my name... gonna go get 'er this evening!!! I so can hardly wait!

[Christopher Morgan]

I'm planning on doing the mod for the motor/cabinet cover to replace the screws with quick release levers, but Sears is out of stock of the part that everybody seems to use.




You probably know this, John, but just in case, if you go here:

http://www.reidsupply.com/GrpResults.aspx?st=SWELL+LATCHES&pid=0&aitm=SC-1911&apid=0&bi

you will find latches that work similarly to the Sears latches and that some have reported using on the R4511 with success.

[Christopher Morgan]

Called the HD I spoke of earlier, they still have 4 of them! CS put one on 24hr reserve in my name... gonna go get 'er this evening!!! I so can hardly wait!

That's good news, Dave. I think you will be very happy. It really is hard to believe that we can buy all this for $299.

I would highly recommend taking a look at the setup advice on the Ridgid forums pages. There is more than one approach that works, but reading the ones described there could save you some head-scratching.

[Dave Gaul]

I would highly recommend taking a look at the setup advice on the Ridgid forums pages. There is more than one approach that works, but reading the ones described there could save you some head-scratching.

Thanks Chris! Already on it though! Printed out a word doc a guy made from the ridgid forums, and a gentleman with the handle PurpLev on LJ's has a nice write-up with pics on his setup that I printed as well...

[Jerome Hanby]

What makes the 4511 a hybrid? I thought the major difference between a hybrid and a cabinet saw was that a hybrid had the trunnion mounted to the table. The 4511 trunnion is mounted inside the case.


...may have answered my own question, cabinet saw trunnions are much beefier...

[Dave Gaul]

I thought the fact that the motor is enclosed inside the cabinet vs. hanging out the back made it a hybrid....?

The cabinet mounted trunnions supposedly makes it easier to adjust when aligning the blade to the miter slots...


BTW.... Just confirmed with SWMBO going to pick 'er up after she gets home!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Jerome Hanby]

WOOT! She's a keeper!

I thought the big difference in a contractors saw and a hybrid was that the hybrid didn't have the motor hanging out.

Think I'm going to forget all of that and just deal with two categories, good saw and not so good saw. I think you're getting a good saw:D.

Someday I'll have my 194x Unisaw restored and I'll have a good saw to replace my not so good Craftsman.


I thought the fact that the motor is enclosed inside the cabinet vs. hanging out the back made it a hybrid....?

The cabinet mounted trunnions supposedly makes it easier to adjust when aligning the blade to the miter slots...


BTW.... Just confirmed with SWMBO going to pick 'er up after she gets home!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Terry Welty]

http://www.reidsupply.com/Detail.aspx?itm=SC-1912

here is the latches that you need. Got mine from Reid Supply... A heck of a lot easier than dealing with sears... I drilled my 1/2" holes (I think) above the philip screw hole locations, just in case I ever need to use the origional screw set up. Really works slick... Good luck

[John Vo]

Can you tell me which Leecraft Zero Clearance insert you purchased (part #?) Also which quick release levers are you referring to at Sears? I cannot find any post related to that, but the mod sounds interesting.


Standard ZCI:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000909/24796/Steel-City-Deluxe-Blade-Insert.aspx

Dado ZCI
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000909/24797/Steel-City-Deluxe-Table-Saw-Insert-for-Dado.aspx

The Ridgid 4511 is based off the same design as the Steel City 35920/35930, that's why you see so many references to SC. Some accessories for the latter will fit the Ridgid, others may not fit or require some modification. The ZCI didn't require any modifications. I'd go with what Terry linked to given the issues I've had with Sears.

[Terry Welty]

I would just make your zero clearance inserts... super easy... use the origional as a guide... 1/2 stock and raise the blade up through the insert. Make several for the popular sizes of dado's you use. Take the money you saved and buy yourself a Ridgid Oscillating sander too... If Mrs. Gaul has a problem with that, let me talk to her.

[Robert Reece]

What is a 4511? A drill? A tablesaw? A planer?
An old staggerwing plane?

Please identify what you are talking about in the subject line. I don't memorize manufacturer catalogs.

Thanks -SMC Community

[tony alba]

What is a 4511? A drill? A tablesaw? A planer?
An old staggerwing plane?

Please identify what you are talking about in the subject line. I don't memorize manufacturer catalogs.

Thanks -SMC Community

Here, let me fix that for you.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+is+the+ridgid+r4511

[Dave Gaul]

Got home with the saw around 830 last night, and I couldn't resist! Loml saw it on my face, and said "go ahead" and off to unload 'er I went! I was at it till 2am!!! Got her all put together, today I am rearranging the shop... It's much bigger than I thought it would be!!! Gott make room for with width of the fence rails (shop is only 8' wide between studs!). I'll make it work for sure! Made a test cut last night through some hard maple and it was AWESOME!!!!

[Terry Welty]

Ain't it just a great little saw!!! Just wait 'til you build a few jigs for it... I made a box joint jig that slides so super good on the granite... it's sweeet! Have fun!

[Greg Peterson]

It works like a charm for me. After struggling with the old craftsman CS, the R4511 is a slice of heaven.

High points for me:

Riving knife
DC
mobile base
No motor hanging out the back

This saw is a perfect fit for my budget and space. Based on the amount of time I get to spend in the shop, anything more expensive than the $499 I paid would have been difficult to justify.

congrats on your new saw. Going from a benchtop to hybrid is a big step. What are you going to make for you wife?

[Matthew Joe]

I purchased an r4511 on impulse this week, also $299 special at Home Depot. I've already assembled it and it works great.

I already have a Ridgid ts3650 (which I planned to sell when I purchased the 4511), but after briefly testing the 4511, I'm not sure which saw I want to keep. I like the fence on the 3650 at lot more--it has t-slots, has less wobble before locking, has a very nice micro-adjusting feature, and has helpful magnifying glass sights. The 4511's fence works ok, but is missing these features. The 4511 has less ripping capacity on the right side. I don't often use more than the 30-31 inches offered by the 4511, but I might need that much capacity sometime. The 4511 also has an entirely solid table top. The 3650 has holes in the cast iron extensions that I've found to be helpful for clamping featherboards, jigs, etc.

On the other hand, the 4511's enclosed cabinet is terrific. It has a lot less vibration and much better dust collection. The blade guard is decent, and I'll probably add a proper riving knife at some point. The lifetime warranty sounds good, too.

But, in my mind, the pros and cons to each saw are pretty evenly matched. Could someone please convince me that the 4511 is the clearly superior saw so that I don't end up lugging it back to the store?

[Dave Gaul]

Greg, thanks! Planning to make her a cedar chest she has always wanted, but soon I'm going to make a 20 gal fish tank stand, nothing fancy, she want to fill the tank and load with fish asap!

Matt, I don't know much about the 3650, but if you are happy with it, I wouldn't spend the $$ on a new saw, save the $$ for something else you really need! You could hold on to the 4511 for a while, keep it in the box and sell it once the are all gone from HD! If you have a reason to replace your 3650, you can't go wrong with the 4511 for $299... I kinda sweated getting it myself, but once I put 'er together and turned 'er on... OMG it was beautiful!

[Dave Gaul]

Just want to say thanks to everyone for all your input in helping me make this happen! This has got to be one of the best tool purchase decisions I've made yet! Thanks to the LOML for an AWESOME, possibly best birthday present EVER!!

Spent lots of time on Saturday tweaking the saw... tables are with .0015" of each other, blade is dead on to miter slot and fence is tuned in perfectly!!! Cut quality with the stock blade was actually impressive! Can't wait to put the Freud 50T Combo on it!

Many complain of the fence... to me it seems pretty solid! Of course, coming from only a delta table top, anything would be better I guess! Spent a little extra time getting the fence dialed in, and aside from needing a aux fence attached, it seems great to me!

Best part is that all of the problems I've read about with this saw, I have seen NONE of so far! Granite is just about perfect, some MINOR deflections where the extension meet the table, but no more than .0015".
All the right pieces parts where there in the box...

Only complaint is the instructions! The designers of the saw deserve an award, the author of the owner's manual deserves a blanket party!!! If it wasn't for reading others' experience of assembly, it would have taken forever to figure out!

Ok, I gonna go register my saw for the LSA and then out to the shop!!!:D

[James Delmage]

Dave,

I just bought the saw last week and love it also. I was apprehensive because I was reading about lots of problems with cracking granite and bad fence alignment. To my surprise the saw did not have any problems and the fence is perfect. I suspect ridgid had a bad production of saws with some being much better than others.

[Jack Wilson]

Where was this saw, and what's the phone number?

Thanks,
Jack

[Dave Gaul]

Put my R4511 through the paces this weekend. Ran a bunch of 8/4 hard maple, using a Freud 24T Avanit ripping blade. The results were absolutely amazing! I even did some re-sawing (sorry, I do not have a bandsaw yet, and I am very careful when doing this!), and you could hardly see any blade marks!

Also did lots of crosscutting, dado'ing, tenoning... the saw performed just about flawlessly!

It did make my first chip in the granite though:(... left hand miter slot, was placing the miter gauge in the slot, had been soooo careful so far, but put the slightest amount of pressure and chipped the corner of the front of the miter slot! A very small chip, hardly noticable, but still...

[Hugh Jardon]

I purchased an r4511 on impulse this week, also $299 special at Home Depot. I've already assembled it and it works great.

I already have a Ridgid ts3650 (which I planned to sell when I purchased the 4511), but after briefly testing the 4511, I'm not sure which saw I want to keep. I like the fence on the 3650 at lot more--it has t-slots, has less wobble before locking, has a very nice micro-adjusting feature, and has helpful magnifying glass sights. The 4511's fence works ok, but is missing these features. The 4511 has less ripping capacity on the right side. I don't often use more than the 30-31 inches offered by the 4511, but I might need that much capacity sometime. The 4511 also has an entirely solid table top. The 3650 has holes in the cast iron extensions that I've found to be helpful for clamping featherboards, jigs, etc.

On the other hand, the 4511's enclosed cabinet is terrific. It has a lot less vibration and much better dust collection. The blade guard is decent, and I'll probably add a proper riving knife at some point. The lifetime warranty sounds good, too.

But, in my mind, the pros and cons to each saw are pretty evenly matched. Could someone please convince me that the 4511 is the clearly superior saw so that I don't end up lugging it back to the store?

You have described exactly the dilemma I faced too.

In the end, I decided to keep the 3660, for the reasons you quote, and use it as an outfeed table for the 4511. The 3660 is more useful to me than the $200-$300 it is worth used. It now has a dado blade in it (hence no splitter), and works just dandy as an outfeed table. If I need the 36 inch capacity, I can just rotate them round on the Herculifts and use the 4511 as the outfeed for the 3660. I put a $5 shopbuilt router table on the end of the 3660, and the whole thing is pretty sweet now. Considering the 3660 was only $282 and I got the 4511 down to $299, I am a happy bunny.

[Dave Gaul]

That sounds like one heck of a setup Hugh!

One bonus you forgot to mention is that if one breaks down, you have a back-up right next to it!

My back-up isn't a nice, but I took my Delta Shopmaster bench top apart and stored it up in one of my lofts, not really worth much to get rid of, but may come useful some day!

[scott spencer]

A couple of comments/questions:

Dave - Install your miter gauge from the back of the table with the washer end hanging off the back instead of from the front...that way most of the miter bar will already be in the slot and it's simpler to slide the washer into the t-slot by just drawing the miter gauge back.

Hugh & Matthew - The R4511 is left tilt, so you're not likely to ever need left side rip capacity. Can you slide the rails to the right a little to gain some rip capacity on the right?

[Dave Gaul]

Oh yeah, did the latch conversion with the swell latches from Reid's... such a simple but AWESOME modification!

[Hugh Jardon]

Hugh & Matthew - The R4511 is left tilt, so you're not likely to ever need left side rip capacity. Can you slide the rails to the right a little to gain some rip capacity on the right?

Very true, yes you can. Some folks on the RIDGID forum have done just that. If Home Depot would stop clearancing their RIDGID tools at ridiculous prices that "I just can't turn down", then I could move onto the next part of the plan though, that makes moving the rails unneccessary.

That is, to remove a stud wall in the basement, making the shop 23 x 23 instead of 13 x 23. When that happens, I'm thinking of putting 50 inch rails on the 4511. Of course the 3660 will be too small for the outfeed then, so it may well (re)gain its dedicated outfeed to make it wide enough to support the 4511.

Or I could just lug my other 4511 down the stairs and put the two of them back to back, with the 3660 on the end. But then, who needs 3 table saws in one shop?