Walnut Oil ??

[Richard Madison]

Where do you order your walnut oil? Is Mahoney's (sp?) "utility finish" the same as walnut oil? TIA for your help.

[Doug W Swanson]

I got my Mahoney's Walnut oil from Rockler. I believe it's called a utility finish but is made with walnut oil.

Doug

[Bill Bolen]

I just use regular old walnut oil from the grocery store. Looks great on bowls and doesn't wash off the first time you cleanup...Bill..

[Richard Madison]

Thanks guys. Grocery store! Whowouldathunkit? Will check there tomorrow.

[Sean Hughto]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20056&cat=1,190,42942

[Mark Burge]

I got some at Woodcraft.

[Mac Carlton]

Where do you order your walnut oil? Is Mahoney's (sp?) "utility finish" the same as walnut oil? TIA for your help.


I got mine at a health food store as I was told by a member of a local wood club. works good does not seem to change the color of the wood and also leaves no residue.

[Reed Gray]

I buy mine directly from Mike. The stuff in the stores is pressed from the meats of the nuts, and Mikes is pressed from the husks and leaves. The stuff in the stores is also some times pasteurized which does break down the proteins that can cause allergies, and break down whatever it is that does the 'cross linking' to make the oil set up. I do know there are other sources, but if I buy from Mike, he gets all the money, instead of the whole sale price. I slop a lot of it on while on the lathe, then like to let them sit over a pair of 40 watt light bulbs to help it dry. Mike says it needs UV light to speed the set up.

robo hippy

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use Mike Mahoney's oil to. Not the wax/oil mixture. Mike says his won't cause allergies like some of the store bought stuff can. If you do use store bought I would suggest you let people know so if they are at risk of nut allergies that they know. Like Reed said it needs just ambient sunlight to cure.

[Richard Madison]

Thanks again guys! That's exactly what I needed. Appreciate your help.

[Richard Madison]

Well, the walnut oil does indeed make the walnut wood look nice. Wiped on two coats and looks fairly dry, so maybe a couple more coats tomorrow. Does it cure just sitting around the shop, and how long does it take before fully cured?

[Ted Calver]

What kind of walnut oil did you buy? Mahoney's or grocery store? Mahoney's has always dried for me. Grocery store oil has never dried for me. I have one bowl that still puts an oil ring on the table cloth after two years.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Mahoney's like Ted said will dry but dries best with ambient sunlight. The stuff I got from the store before I started using Mike's never did dry. It still leaves a oily spot and it has been about 2 yrs when I did this one. Bought Mike's and no problems.

[Bob Barkto]

Mikes oil is polymerized and will dry fairly quickly. A few days.

Other walnut oils can take a week or more, depending on how they are processed and how they are applied.
Some will never dry because of the way they are processed. Look for one high in linoleic acid.

It's best to apply one light coat and let it dry thoroughly. Subsequent coats will dry more quickly as the first coat creates a barrier to further penetration.

A heavy first coat, or subsequent coats over a non-dry coat can create problems. Oxygen can't get into the oil to allow drying.




Well, the walnut oil does indeed make the walnut wood look nice. Wiped on two coats and looks fairly dry, so maybe a couple more coats tomorrow. Does it cure just sitting around the shop, and how long does it take before fully cured?

[Richard Madison]

Grocery store. Still not inexpensive and only one brand available. Two wipe on coats from this afternoon seemed dry so I put on one more coat this evening. Sunlight is in pretty short supply at the moment but there is no rush. Still have at least one more bowl to build. I would think that multiple very light coats would be better than one or two very heavy coats. Do not want to saturate the wood, just seal and protect the surface a bit. Will see what tomorrow brings.

How many coats do you usually apply?

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Here's some info Richard that you can use, it is from the Lee Valley site, HTH

138517

[Richard Madison]

Thanks Leo. Very helpful information. Since I applied very thin wipe-on coats, I do not anticipate a problem with drying/curing. In fact the first coat was virtually dry by the time I made it all the way around the bowl. Thanks all for your help.

[Bob Barkto]

As many as needed.
The chart Leo posted is good advise ime.

But I differ on length of time to wait before topcoating.
If you allow each coat to dry you can topcoat after the final coat is dry for about 2-4 days (depends on the weather).

I will say I've only ever topcoated walnut oil with shellac, oil based varnish or some other oil or oil/varnish blend, wax, or some combination of those.

Lacquer and WB finishes might pose some problems.
If using them, test or wait would be the best advise I could give.


Grocery store. Still not inexpensive and only one brand available. Two wipe on coats from this afternoon seemed dry so I put on one more coat this evening. Sunlight is in pretty short supply at the moment but there is no rush. Still have at least one more bowl to build. I would think that multiple very light coats would be better than one or two very heavy coats. Do not want to saturate the wood, just seal and protect the surface a bit. Will see what tomorrow brings.

How many coats do you usually apply?

[Richard Madison]

Thanks Bob. Not planning a top coat. Maybe a little buffing on the outside. Will just have to see how it goes, having never used the walnut oil before. At this point am just happy to see zero sanding scratches.

[Dan Forman]

In fact the first coat was virtually dry by the time I made it all the way around the bowl. Thanks all for your help.

Richard---It may have been absorbed by the wood quickly, but it takes time for it to actually dry, especially the grocery variety with no drying additives.

Dan

[Richard Madison]

Thanks Dan.